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Show H "Py EDITH RAYMOND H - II NEW YORK, Feb. 20. Many of the I -f .1 1 lor-iikhIcs being brought in for tho B ;iiI:iico spring trade aro of tlio three-I three-I piece kind. Tho linens fire following m the fashion . and tlieir bodices, like H xhoso in i:lolh and velvet, :irc frc-II frc-II qucntly almost wholly of not dyed tlio H color "of tho cost.umo. Tlicso bodices" liave straps, bands or otlicr trimmings D whii'h mako them ono with t lie suits which tliey accompany. In all cases the bodice and skirt :tro in one Jl piece, the effect being of the princess gl order. But tho waist lino has dropped M in tho 'newest ones, and all authorities seem o agroo that this dro) will be H moro noticeable in spring fashions I when they bocomo known. Tho pan-H pan-H nier is coming on apace, but, like U other Hooting modes; it is moro than likely to drop suddenly out of tho m race. H I The- chiffon and net blouses which I continue, to accompany tailor-mades I aro still to have tho transparent whito I yoke, which is often ombroidored in fl a heavy raised partem. Tho designs I aro big" and spreading, worked iu sou-H sou-H tacho or in a satin stitch dull du-ll broidery, which baa much tlio samo M effect.. The motives, of tho patterns N aro often paddod thickly with cotton to ruako them stand out. H I "White or flesh colored silk sfocki-I sfocki-I net slips aro worn under such i transparent yokes in tho coldest I weather. To make tho tucked mousse-I mousse-I lino de soio yokc3 nnd sleeves, which I aro again being made in tho samo H color as tho tailor-mado, more bcconi-I bcconi-I ing, n white tullo lining is often used. I Sleeves of such waisls aro always long I and straight. Pino black tullo is at-I at-I rractivo as a lining for line chanlilly 1 yokes and sleeves, as it throws up the pattern of tho laco to advantage. I with tho dccolloto princess gown a H transparent yoko of liuely tucked mall ma-ll lino is often employed, nnd the long, II tight sleeves are a toregouo conclusion. H H Colored nets and laces aro being D used abundantly on enliro bodico H parts with princess gowns, tho material H of tho high bodice skirts running upon M iho waist in shoulder strap effects. 1 Tho new linens exhibit this fcaluro to H great advantage. Laco and net aro dvod in tho oxact shade in all cases. Main- of the thrcc-picco tailor-mades and of tlio silk and lino wool house gowns are made iu similar fashion. In (ho not gowns there is a marked tendency to widou tho skirt ever so alightlv below tho knees. And at tho hips there is a little case, but it is microscopical. Tho now suits which aro in now for tlio spring havo tho front and back skirt panels, which arc likely to appear at this season whatever' what-ever' iho styles. Those panels, persons who are in the habit of shopping, recognise as familiar. Thoy nro a sort of betwixt and between dovico which is snfo whichever way the vano turns. And, although somo slight concession con-cession has boon inado iu tho width of skirts, it has not been, allowed in any degrco to intorforc with tho long lines. On the contrary, ovory possible dovico that can in any way add emphasis em-phasis to slondcrnoss is seized upon and mado tho most of. Especially ifl this uoticoablo in tho long coats, which havo suddenly taken on new exaggerations, exaggera-tions, and aro become conspicuous foaturcs of this transition fashion season. m From tho cutaway effects of the early fall, coats havo assumed a contrastingly con-trastingly closed appearance, with de-cidod de-cidod Diroctoiro lines, and many o tho onc-pioco dresses aro cut and trimmed to look like them. To. add to this all straight and diagonal edges aro finished with a piping, and not infrequently in-frequently aro further roinforcod with buttons, "ball fringo or other similar ornamentation. There is a now form of tho French military coat that seems to havo token favorably, and . has been widely duplicated in the spring materials. It is a full three-quartors length, has a panel frout that roaches I from shoulder to shoulder, overlapping ! the uiidcr-arm portion at ono side, and 1 fastoning at the other with a row of buttons. Tho back is in two sections, with tho scam at tho Umpire lino, and tho sleeves, of course, plain and closo fitting. i Another model suggests tho German military coat, with a short shouldor capo and high collar that lorminatcs at each aide of the front. It, too, has tho Directoiro suggestion, and lias wide rever3 that turn back in a distinct dis-tinct lino with tho edge of tho shoulder cape. It closes at tho side with a hugo buckle. Tho sleeves aro not too small, but taper from tho elbow and are finished with -very deep cuffs of silk pointed at the top. Tho model that is cut out across tho front, just below tho bust line, and either loft I wide open or with a square-cut vest I inserted, is another military design. It I is also as adaptable for a suit coat as for a separate garment, and is developed de-veloped quite as often in tho ono way as iu tho other. With tho exception ' of braiding, however, and a fancy silk for tho rover facings, tho coat is quito as attractivo in plain effect. In ono costumo in which a coat of this order figured tho material was a satin cloth in one of tho darker of tho Berkeley greens, and tho trimming was entirely in 6clf-color. The skirt was long and fastened at one sido of tho front with largo button moulds, cloth-covered, cloth-covered, arranged in groups of three over the opening. Tho coat was slashed across the front in tho manner described, nnd Jont a double-breasted suggestion by ,tho four buttons that finished it, A band of deep fringo of tho grdeu shado was stretched across tho lower edge, and tho other odges were all outlined by a fold of green satin. The drooping rovers and the sharply-pointed, tnrnod-back cuffs were faced with some two-toned striped satin that gavo a decidedly smart effect. A now suit just turned out bv an up-town houso of nolo has a plaitod skirt and hip-length coat. Tho material ma-terial is a jsoft, palo lilac diagonal tweed. Tho skirt is double box-plaited all around and tho plaits aro stitched flat below tho knocs, Tho coat is severely tailored, with collar and cuff3 of a darker shado of velvet, outlined with straps of the tweed. Threo little buttons mado a finish of tho sido front seams of tho coat and two buttons fasten it above the bust. The buttous aro all covered with lilac-colored ottoman otto-man silk. a There is a promiso of spring in some of the hats seen at fashionable gatherings gather-ings oven in this north country. In placo of tho fur that banded hat3 a few weeks ago, jne now finds wisps of tnlle, and probably flowers, or, if not flpwers, light-tinted feathers with quantities of white that amount to the samo thing. Tho latest feather to V , , tbo ""Jiincr-a fancy is the double, uncurlod ostrich plume of natural tone outsido and white underneath, under-neath, ono feather put over the othei and the under one just proiecting enough to mako its presence known. Colored plumes of tho same kind aro also used. An almond-colored toque lust over from Paris has an almond leather lined with snow while uprcar-ing uprcar-ing a t the side. The 'toque is made of velvet, with tlio brim cleverly turned outward to avoid its crushing the hair Around tho crown there is a twist o almond colored tullo over white |