Salt Lake Tribune | 1902-05-04 | Page 39 | Evening Wraps Worn by Women of Fashion

u LVENXNGWiAPS h r t T RAPS WORN BYI I I l WOMEN Of fiSllIO r K UV WAJ I j Ctfi q 3baS f j Sa i s S BY ELISE DAY Paris Saturday April li Everybody at hit season of tho year Is wearing some kind of a fancy coat and the styles in which these garments arts made display as great a variety as ± do the figures which they cover + In thjse days of such generosity In Lime I way of faphlons there is absolutely no excuse for any woman wearing an unbecoming garment Whatever her rtyle and her tastes she may easily gratify them and yet remain a la mode However there Is l one thing she must have and this is a fancy coat that la I If she desires to be strictly modish lf she Is a 1 wee bit inclined to stoutness stout-ness then her model will be u semi tight filling one in n threequarter length The slender woman that fortunate for-tunate individual who never has to worry over new fashions for she known l they arc > designed especially for her type may Indulge her fancy for mine ot those tiny taffeta affairs which look more like an abbreviated klmoau than anything else I know l There me pretty Chantllly coats and those of veiling made upon a silk foundation foun-dation while the lightcolored hone h-one appear smarter than ever One of the loveliest coats made this season is the BoUioffDavld model of printed mousse line over silk The diaphanous dia-phanous fabric Is exquisitely I colored with pink flowers and green foliage Upon n delicate ground of creamy white The cout almost reaches the hot tom of the skirt and is Intended for evening wear Its broad sleeves have the same stamped design in soft colors and are bordered with a tiny festoon of ribbon knots lhe bottom of the coat Is finished to match A Capuchin hood makes this garment somewhat picturesque and quaint About the shoulders bordering this round collarlike affair and overlaid with radiating bands of ribbon on a foundation I of lace there Is a threeInch shirring ot plain mousseline Where this cresses the bust there are two rosettes ro-settes of the chiffon from which depend de-pend long and I broad streamers of velvet vet striped ribbon having thc proportionate propor-tionate ends cut pointed At the throat the coat is finished with a high turnover turn-over collar trimmed with straps oC black velvet ribbon and oval applications applica-tions of lace A slender figure will find the graceful grace-ful and clinging fulness of this coat very becoming and Its airy daintiness Is particularly appropriate for use at this time the year Mousseline 1 of course Is a perishable fabric but nothing as yet designed is quite so effective ef-fective for certain purposes and surely nothing could be profiler SMART COAT OF TAFFETA A smart taffeta coat is shown In the threequarter model which has long revers faced hack with ecru silk showIng show-Ing pompadour figures The half ting garment Is slashed at the sides and Is bordered all around with three graduated widths of black velvet ribbon rib-bon These band follow the outllno of the coat and form a point at the top of the slashes Two widths arc used upon tho revers and flat collar while the regulation coat sleeves are finished with a deep turnback cuff of pompadour pompa-dour silk edged with velvet hands The lightfitting coat of ecru is an othorsinnri style In the popular three quarter length This entire model is made of ecru cloth In an elaborate cutout cut-out design laid upon a foundation of taffeta exactly the same shade The pattern of the cloth applique suggests long broadening panel coming from a fancifully wrought yoke cffectand with this design duplicated in the wide border bor-der Tho sleeve broadens considerably It the bottom and 1aj 1 made entirely of the applique design with a narrow border marking the bellshaped edge A ruffle of ecru lace finished the sleeves at the hand and three black velvet loops are caught at the regular space in I the trills A straight narrow band at the neck hara i turnover ruffle of the ecru lace and this too Is I marked by Intersecting loops of narrow black velvet ribbon The frill of lace continues down the front to thc bust t and at this pojnl mire knotted long loops and ends of the ribbon rib-bon In a broader width A rather odd conceit Is the other CechoffDavid model which is made entirely of sunplnlted cloth The material ma-terial used is oystercolored voile and the lining is I a cachemlre loulslne bordered bor-dered I with three rows of black velvet ribbon an Inch wide band forming the center row while the two outside ones roof die same narrow width Like nearly all the modish coats this one lay l supplied wltli a broad collar which Is Incrustfdwllh heavy lace dyed to match the peculiar made of the cloth Even tlteSleeves to this model are sun plaitedto match the body of the coal andtfal In straight full lines from the chouldersyT Theytoo are lined witim I loulslne and trimmed with ribbon after the fashion of the rent of the inneq r part Vivy pfriurt t Indeed Is the Lhroe quarter Mauby model In mastic cloth Nothlnt could be noire stylsh for wear at the races than such a garment and omhlncd with the VIrot hal thecffcct 19 all that one cotmld wish There is around a-round yoke emphasized by rows of stitching and from this part the half I loose garment falls In becoming lines I tthich broaden out toward the bottom I Unique are the sleeves which rire somewhat full and have this extra I wlflth drawn at tlie elbow by paeans oV tiny tucks which extend upward a few inches At the elbow under n narrow stitched strap which buttons on the inside of the arm the lower section sec-tion of the sleeve is set on This fits the armclosely here gradually broadening broad-ening as It reaches downward until it finishes in very wide turnback cuffs stitched around to match the yoke and laced with silk the color of the cloth There are lapels which round in the an ma way as the yoke and cuffs and theso too are stitched HATS AND BLOUSES A LA MODE The hat worn with this coat iti i a Louis XVI made of black straw niching and trimmed with roses blouses are prettier and daintier than ever and Invariably they are made toby to-by means of the fine handiwork put upon them Here Is a coarse blue linen which particularly attracted my attention for it appeared HO simple and yet so smart Over hero shlrt waists give away entirely to soft and more fpmlnlnc blouses In white ecru and all the pale shades and these are elaborately adorned with feather stitching i stitch-ing lace and embroidery bands and all manner of pretty selfcolored embroideries embroid-eries Nothing has succeeded quite so well with the summer woman as thcbc lingerie lin-gerie blouHCH and It iecmK rather astonishing as-tonishing to find that many of them are marked at the same figures as handsome hand-some crepe and mousoullne ones However How-ever this fact Ii 1 readily accounted for by n glance at the fine handrun tucks and handwrought designs This particular blouse was made to order from wedgewood blue linen and contrary to the usual mode for such waists this one fastened at the front Fqr the space of perhaps half an Inch down the back the thioadu were pulled out and a very effective pattern of Spanish drawwork was done In the open meshes Each sldo of this win a cluster of about a dozen lingerie lucks This finished all the decoration observed upon the back of the blouse The front however presented a more fancy appearance I ap-pearance and directly down the center I ran the same drawnwork design then at each side of this were clusters of the tiny lingerie tucks then more I drawnwork and HO on until the entire blouse was covered with handwork The sleeves had two clusters of three I tucks running fiom the shoulder to a point midway JJctwfcen the wrist and elbow and here they were freed In order to supply the modish puff The fulnes was gathered Into n deep wristband done in blue cotton cot brbid cry with the design cut out This cut matched the yoke effect which was really made of two points extending over the front of the blouse practically practical-ly being it continuation of the straight collar and I done in cutout embroidery Embroidery cotton used In the same color as the blouse Is one of the most cfToctlvc and smartest trimmings tic slgned for these Lurmenta While ecru and while are considered the popular colors for summer gowns and waist there are many lovely little lit-tle models made up In blue rose and green linens For a batiste blouse there Is a charming l charm-ing design which Is girlishly simple and very pretty This one fastened at the back and was made of pale ecru with trimmings of white Down the center of the front from collar to belt there extended u threeInch banding formed of a strip of Valenciennes between be-tween two embroidery ones of the same width Next to this trimming on cither side came nine lingerie tucks also reaching from throat to belt On the outside of these clusters was another band of trimming which ended In a I point at the bust line then another cluster of tucks freed at the same point to produce a becoming feature t The back had a row of tiny thread buttons fastening under a flap and each side of the center was a cluster of the I same small tucks while the shoulder seams were nut together by I means of very narrow embroidery beading bead-ing Down the sleeves ran two groups of tucking which were freed below the elbows so that the fulness might be caught into the straight band of lace and embroidery strips This same banding formed the perfectly straight collar which fastened at the back by means of small buttons and thread loops Yoke effects made of filet Point de Paris and all the favorite summer laces i I C rl H t t t i 1tk J v A f c tr n t J Plisse Voile Coat Prom BechofE > v Id I 1 i 1 Fare m very smart ns also are those formed i oftiny bias folds in fancy scroll pat feihu held together with fagoting In I wh mite or colors FOULAKDS RESTORED TO FAVOR Al the first of the KCHROII foulards promised to be la5 w pppular than they I were last sen sou but through some caprice I ca-price of fashion they have been restored to favor and at present are conslcl I oreclby far the sinaricsi thing In gowns of this clans Strange as It may seem the price of a foulard gown far exceeds that of a crepe or veiling made upon the same lines JO may be that manufacturers manu-facturers anticipated limit falling from the ranks and so decided to make fewer of the silks Whatever the cause however how-ever the fact remains that modhites arc charging extraordinary prices for those soft and pretty silks Ecrus tans black and white and blues seem to be the colors most in vogue and thin mention of blue suggests sug-gests to me the fad there Is I Just now for combining a bright 1 clear shade oC blue with a brilliant 1 green The two together I arc really the latest cry In Parisian fashions and the effect when beautiful tones are chosen is wonderfully wonder-fully chic Hals I display this combination to excellent ex-cellent advantage and for street wear nothing could be smarter than the following fol-lowing It was a boatshaped turban with brim rolling up higher at the sides Rough blue straw made the entire en-tire frame and the only trimming was furnished by a broad black velvet ribbon rib-bon which was put on rather tlatl across the front and was drawn down over the beautifully blended blue anti green wings which were laid close against the side of the turban with limo tutu tinned toward the back A stunning black turban in rough braid showed the same arrangement of velvet ribbon filling up the space In front between crown and brim At the sides wore two sets of wings the forward for-ward ones being white spotted with black while those further toward the back were entirely black Sometimes straw rosettes centred with cut steel or fancy buckles run through black velvet ribbon arc used to trim the from and sldc of a turban tur-ban crown though much more frequently fre-quently wings are occn The fail for long lace and ribbon pendant draperies and fluttering starts reaching hulf way to the waist has been greatly exaggerated ex-aggerated and the welldresHcd woman contents herself with wearing a tiny spray of flowers or a few loops of ribbon extending over the brim other ot-her hat nt the hack Veils worn Just to the tip oC the j fashionable of these are a double mesh of black over white showing large black spots Spots are certainly the mode and the woman who has the courage to choose a plain veil Is rare Indeed Such veils are put on quite simply I without any loose or dangling ends1 ends1While While nearly every afternoon and evening gown has bloraomod out In some sort of fancy snsli ornamentation ornamenta-tion there are a few blouses and gowns which are remarkable for the absence of Just this mode of trimming One notices however that basquea or postillions are In evidence when streamer arc not seen and every gown whether It has a sash or not Is made with a wide crush belt Even handsome silk and mou9 lIne dinner and dancing frocks display Iheac long tails reaching half way down the skirt Crush belts should he about four Inches wide and the prettiest are made of plain liberty silt in though occaaloimlly lowered de gigns are seen Beautiful rhinostonc and enimel buckles ornament many of these fancy belts and these are placed at the left aide or directly In the back PeUock Jewelry Is having a decided ragi at present and some exquisite belts as well as collar clasp are made In representations of this gorgeous fowl All those who can afford It are wearIng wear-Ing soft ribbon fastened with fancy clasps about Idle throat and many of these ornaments arc quite as handsome hand-some an those seen upon pearl and diamond collars OC course the peacock designs arc Just now very much to the fore Strange to say the brlliant lined plumage Is not an enamel but Is some sort of a half transparent substance had BUJJ Ulsom nuij i ul jii3noj 1 buckles pUlses and all manner of fashionable fancies In Jewelry are done in this very effective design and from the way fashionable women are taking tak-ing to the novelty one must conclude that the sign of 111 luck I Is no longer coupled with these handsomely colored Ceaihera Many oC the newest sleeves Instead of puffing all around the wrist arc made with an Inset of silk or mousse line the outlines of which describe a slightly curved section starting from a point just below the elbow and endIng end-Ing at the wrist The effect la much nose are still In vogue and the most less drooping than the ordinary puff and there Is fulness only at that part midway between the two ends of the arc Fancy cords and large round flat ornaments woven from the same twisted silk or cotton are used with smart effect to hold these soft insets at the cuff All manner of curious dangling orna mcntfj are liked fpr use as gown rlimriiHITS as wcll as in jewelry effects ef-fects Chainti finished with tassels 6f I gold silver or pearls are decidedly novel and fashionable and many of the prettiest belts arc caught at the front by means of these odd fastenings fasten-ings t V r 1 j W 6 J v tr Thi 3 1t JIG JI-G tea Gr4 r J V f b 4 U p o 4 ty hu4j v ct + s h r V eAiiriuiiuIIuu Ecru Cloth Applique Over Silk 1 Ii r c Y r r t y > Lt L S r J tT J rat f f fan r t Tr l 1 t J li m V s r4 8 s II mastic Colored Coat by Man by Virof Hat