| Show SMART GOWNS FROM BIRTlE TO DEBUt Mrs Goulds CourtCase Costume Draws Attention to the Remarkable Evolution of the II Science of RobeMaking in America = Worth Dethroned in Our Society I 5 Now York June GThe recent appearance ap-pearance of a member of the plutocratic c pluto-cratic house of Gouldamid the sordid f surroundings of a common court of justice to face the plebian charge of refusing to payher dressmakers bill draws attention to the manner in which 1 the construction of mylady3 wardrobe P han grown to be a scientific business j good points of her aristocratic form as an artist knows his model TIe attendant at-tendant knows loo which of the soft allies rich Laces dainty embroideries and fairylike combinations of fleecy materials will be most > likely to suit the tqsto of the customer The very Important i question of the material having hav-ing been settled a cotmdll Is called fraught with ns much importance to theprlncipnls asany ever held though < 1 1I I 1I I I I 1I n C C a I 1 G 1 y < IfCr r 4 f 1 rv t 1 1 t t iJ THE n NEW SEPARATE LACE SLEEVES This graceful slcavc with Its bell be low the elbow is of point de Venise lace over an undcrsleeve of creairi chitloii gathered lengthwise ft y VV f r VP 1 J EE LAD YSMITH HAT Nv rx tr J r t < X 1 I r f 1 i ttii i i J f f f t Z I > < f 1 iv I J TsVVi1 + f yr r i Ii 7 > f r i I l 3 2 I Xi t dyj lt j f 1 4 I i f c r l > 1 i I r r I F 0 I > 1111 Jl t f f < > > f The Ladysmith hat i f5 on veryr st of o r o uhCr populrHX t al t nlicsent lJh ona presented Is thc type of this 1 oo Gjlcro rumehunda scarf draped uponJts smart droning style brlJS mad e otwht pique w + th n I 1 L t J O s j V Wtl Jc Its I object IB only the selection of a design de-sign that will make the purchaser the cynosure of all eyes at the next society function A btlsy man IK the designer at this time and an allimportant one too I tooSome women sect the newest designs de-signs on exhibition In the room not with the Idea of vhooslng one of them I I for the model of theirdresses hut to order one something like It and yet so different as not to be known as the same one A deadly crime Is it for a designer to give a highclass patron a costume So similar to that of another customer that the two maybe taken for counterpart when they meet In the social whirl No detail of the dress Is too trilling to be passed l over Every thing is planned to the smallest bow and tuck The designers brain Is busy everywhere He gives the patron whose costume he is called upon suddenly sud-denly to design the advantage of inspirations In-spirations that have come to him on railroad trains on the ferry during sleepless hours ut night and at odd times when street sights or natures pranks have suggested a combination I of colors or materials To the designer of expensive costumes the clouds at sunset J supply < gorgeous and daring contrasts con-trasts or delicate evanescent hues f he curl of a loaf or its veinnga the grace ful droop of a flower on its stem suggest sug-gest curves The Ideas ripen into practical prac-tical lines and the patron of the establishment estab-lishment that employs the designer gels the benefit of his Ideas in the next costume she orders I The society fwomnn who admires the designers ready suggestiveness little thinks howmuch time he has spent In studying the = costume After thinking out a plan for an original costume he passes hitf ideas along to the modeler who Brasses < up Iin while muslin soma little Jointed dolls about eighteen or twenty Inches high and exactly proportioned propor-tioned according to the prevailing measurements of the house As soon as the pattern of the costume has been determined It IH cut out In fine tissue paper to try the effcdt of coloring Every Imaginable shade oC color is J at hand and the delicate harmonies and I bold contrasts suggested by priceless orchids and jollier flowers of which the NOVELTIES IN SUMMER WAISTS 4 t f 1br if i t1 > > = T c r iY t l 1111u 1 ± rtrl I I ttt I r r u t Ps r i t h r rri Z Z > i4 l 1 t I 4 < a t orr1111illt lam Tillnhlall s < I I r f SL These dainty models show the latest ideas in summer waists The one to the right is made of India muslin the sleeve ties and bretelles being of flow + cred ribbon the latter caught across the front by narrow black satin ribbons passed through paste ornaments The quaintly novel waist with Its many irllls J In the center of the picture Is made of sole de chine the ivory tint of which blends charmingly 1 with the tone of the guipure lace which forms the trans I a parentvest l Bows of pale blue lace ribbon glvo a pretty Jlnish G o the flchu fronts The arming orsage to the left which completes the trip recalls the I berthe 1 of many years ago the bodice perfectly plain trimmed with soft applique lace andbroad satin ribbon draped over the shoulders and tying In a bow i b-ow in front Deep frills of the same lace form elbow sleeves lJ i y c requiring men as well as women possessed pos-sessed of rare judgment artistic minds I y a skill worthy of a better objoct and + an establishment the number of whoso employees sometimes runs Into three figures The demands of the giltedged i > members of society in this country for l r a liomemade article of apparel that 1 will be fully equal to the one they know > They can procure abroad are becoming every season more exacting True when the annual flitting to Europe begins < be-gins the Articles that are needed to replenish re-plenish the wardrobe are noted with a view ton visit to the great man mod Isle of Paris But in season and out my lady wants fine clothes and she lr L is not always able to defer the purchase V until she arrives In the French capital 7 Anything inferior In appearance to the genuine French article moreover she I will not have That Is why It has come about that t 1 i the construction of a highpriced cos ri f tumo in this country menus sleepless f nights for a designer many days of I L hard work for tho employees of the i r workroom careful and laborious try t Jng criticising and fixing and Wally Y r a finished article that may be the envy m OL all swelldom I or ma may figure In a f police court case in which the contest t ants are angry wjth the modiste clam eying for her money and a scornful 1 grande dame urging the court to grant i permission for her to try on the article under discussion in order that his r Honor may Judge for himself of the alleged incompetence of the modiste The modiste of the present day like the photographer must Improve like nature if he is to satisfy his I client The fr carriage of Mrs John > Jacob Sr Mrs Vanderbllt or Mrs Gould rolls along Fifth avenue stops at tli + the door l ti fashionable oor of a dressmakers establish j i meat and thc darling 01 society alights She calls for her favorite at attendant I I Whoknows the Imperfections and the artist usually Is a great admirer arc combined until the master Is satisfied wIth the effect That the customer may see how the costume will look when finished the living lay figure IH called into requisition requisi-tion and a costume as nearly like the one proposed as can be obtained la employed em-ployed The living lay figure t in her way is fully as important as any part of the establishment of a modern modisles firm She ytears a close fitting fit-ting plain gown of black silk or satin over which she Is calletl upon to slip any dresses that a customer may wish to see besides she has tcPtry > on over andover and-over again twenty or thirty costumes during the day When the final trying on time comes a very trying time to NEW COLLARS FO R BOLERO JACKETS a G Ir 1 r v L tss t r 11 h + 1 WffMlPW WWMj iiI t1 L t p I7 I I r J I i f 1 ft f tSt r5A I 1 4rlf a f I I 11 day tr it r I t > I s Xx Utf y > I t f ihe rage for fancy collars As a lHmmlng for the ubiquitous bolero ls now I at Its height hfiti dalnti a n Vwc > t a Pleasing relief toTlve severity of the bolero and are oxtuohjelyV beeoltlingt They UVB made of line batistes lawns ana tucked muallns wjth border of cluny point de Venise and guipure lace I rue three varied styles shown heir offer I may HUggeslienB for attractive sung mer handiwork J J 1 n II w ibI all concerned the artist whose finished work then Is seen for the first time once more is required to make any suggestions sugges-tions that occur to him or Improve on any hints the fastidious patron may drop There Is mourning In the house If the costume does not charm the patron If It so displeases her that she refuses to take It at all Wi was the I case with Mrs Goulds courtcase costume cos-tume then there Is tearing of hair and I hard language The feelingsv of the I artist and his assistant are exactly I similar to those of the great artist whose picture prepared for the salon I at the expense of years of patient work rejected as unsuitable exhibition |
