| Show OMEN OF FASHION A Novel Riding Habit Meeting With Much Favpr PLAIN DRESSES FOR WEDDINGS A Louis Quatorize Coat and a Plain Drees of Almost any Material Is Smiled Upon Just Now NEW YORK May 13 lS91Special correspondence cor-respondence TUE HERLDUp in the park these early spring mornings may be I seen a pretty yet odd picture of a woman on horseback arrayed in an unconventional riding habit The woman is a beautiful young Spaniard petite bright in manner graceful stylish and one which any man might be proud to accompany Yet for all the pretty little Spaniard often rides unaccompanied by any one except ex-cept the riding master or her husband other cavaliers she bas none for the simple reason that her attire Is so very remarkable that no other men have been found sufficiently suffi-ciently imbued with the courage of their opinions to < laro venture forth at her side The dress that she has chosen is one oft of-t her own invention suggested by things which she has seen and read but yet her own after alL It is a cross between a conventional con-ventional riding habit for women a conventional con-ventional walking skirt a pair of Turkish trowsers and a mans riding suit Yet the combination of all these conventionalities produces a suit which is the most unconventional uncon-ventional thing to be seen in Central park When the pretty rider stands upon the ground she looks as if arrayed in a tight fitting bodice with kilt pleated skirt When sho Lakes a stop the foremost pleat and likewise like-wise the back one may fly apart as if a court petticoat were opening over a quilted satin skit But in this caso there is no quilted satin skirt underneathand the light is revealed through the openings in these pleats in the most shockingly unusual manner man-ner possible Yet the effect is very pretty und on a still day one would scarcely notice that the skirt differed from an ordinary one t Under this skirt which is finished with braid in a tailormade fashion the rider Wears a pair of Turkish trowsers thickly wrinkled at every inch of their length and banded at the knee with a piece of black elastic Of course with this the rider sits astride of the horse and permits the skirt to fall down on either side so that it entirely conceals con-ceals the Turkish trowsers Hooks are fastened to the skirt and these catch into the trowsers at intervals of three or four inches keeping the skirt perfectly in place on windiest day I ria V 4 t j I I t III Y A TVALKTXG COSTUME tT While such a dress as this seems most shocking because of the exposure which seems necessarily to follow it is really less conspicuous in exposing the figure than the ordinary tailormade riding habit The latter lat-ter shows exactly the size and shape of the legs as well as their general position The former conceals them by the full skirt which hangs over them Hiding thus a woman is reasonably safe upon a horse and is much less liable to cramp than when seated sideways upon aside a-side saddle Yet the side saddle has conventionality con-ventionality in its favor and the new method of riding has not The pretty Spaniard says that she is unable to hire a horse at any of the riding academies for a jaunt in the park when thus arrayed because be-cause the riding masters fear that some of the patronsmight take exception to such a dress and might object to being seen emerging from an academy that permitted Its pupils to dress in this manner Scarcely can a riding master be found as a companIon compan-Ion 4 In the meantime the dress is so becoming becom-ing that the pretty woman wears it and is much admired At the same time she feels comfortable and safe declaring that never before has she so enjoyed equestrianism Several women of fashion have expressed a willingness to dress in the same manner if only some one could be found to take the lead No one likes to venture forth alone and no one has been able to secure sufficient cooperation to get a number of women together to-gether for a trial trip The same disadvantage disadvan-tage attends this departure in fashion that has marked other decided changes namely II the conspicuousness which renders it unpleasant I pleasant for those who would otherwise be the pioneers Quite a change is taking place in the method of dressing at house weddings As everyone knows it has been the proper caper to wear ones very best at wedding festivities and even to purchase a new pawn specially for the occasion Nothing worn or old or even with the first newness off was considered good enough to grace so happy an occasion But this spring those who have gone much into society have reJoiced re-Joiced that a new fad has arisen which permits per-mits and indeed suggests that they wear garments with the newness well off of them and not in any way remarkable for their elegance or style For morning weddings wed-dings a plain scanty skirt of any check or plain material and the Louis Quatorze coatis coat-Is Even a plain skirt with loose open bodice may be worn by a guest at one of these morning weddings The occasion while a formal one is not considered such as to warrant full dress Another side to this dress question is the ethical one which with the nicety not tf hitherto considered forbids a guest to run the risk of wearing a better gown than that in which the bride is arrayed The bride is the central figure the observed one the only one who is entitled to a gown which shall attract attention and consideration For a guest to go dressed in richer material than that worn by the bride is coming to be considered as bad form as for a hostess to overdress her invited guests For evening wear the shades of heliotrope helio-trope pure turquoise and the various tones of green are fashionable Red and black are also much worn and indeed are nearly as popular as they were two seasons ago Deep red gowns with studs of jet graduating graduat-ing in size toward the waist are fashionable fashion-able An entirely new style of dress has a low cut bodice with the neck filled in with lace A tucked yoke is also seen with these low cut bodices and for dinner wear a thin lace evoke drawn high above the neck with arrow a-rrow ribbon is seen A saving is effected ef-fected in dresses by means of these low necked bodices For the street the neck may be filled in with a yoke of colored cloth supposing that the material is black and for evening the yoke may be trimmed with jet Black Ben alino makes up into unusually beautiful dresses when com bined with jet and supplied with jeweled front All kinds of jewels are not considered good form in the morning The only really morning jewelry consist of pearlsdiamonds or jet Some beautiful forms and jet and onyx are seen combined with diamonds With diamonds so says the fashionable world one or other kind of jewelry will pas muster for morning wear and that kind is the sapphire But the two gems must always bo worn in combination The passion for feather trimming has lasted over into late spring Far exceeding the season when such ornamentation has i been considered suitable It is still seen as in edging to the border of the high medici collarsand finishing the cuffs and lapels of the Louis Quatorze coats j d 5t 9 Z l SUMMER BEAUTIES A pretty dress ecru in tint and ladies cloth in material came down in the Broadway Broad-way cars yesterday The skirt was scanty drawn back so tightly that tne wearer seemed scarcely able to walk in it and yet when she did take a step the dress seemed to yield and produced an effect as graceful as is ever seen in the new umbrella case styles The waist of the sown was buttoned but-toned actually buttoned with visible buttons but-tons all the way down the front The buttons but-tons were of gilt trimmed with silver On each side of the buttons a broad lapel of navy blue velvet was turned back until the outside point of the lapel almost touched the high puff sleeves The collar was a standing one at least two inches in height and a broad collar like lapel stood up around the neck and turned back in front in two large points This lapel or collar was also of navy blue velvet As a wrap against the coolness of the late afternoon after-noon the wearer carried over her arm an ecru cape which when donned would be tightfitting in the back and thickly braided with a cord of deep brown Full purr sleeves bell seaped at the hand and a loose front bordered with feather trimming completed the trimming of this pretty garment gar-ment On the newest gown chiffon thickly gathered or shirred in several rows is put about the neck of gows and down the front being used exactly as thefeather trimming has been The chiffon is exceedingly easy material to handle being light soft silky yet sufficiently firm in texture to hold its wn when placed in standing rows of gath rs or shirrings It comes in all colors andj Bits soft pretty effect is becoming to the face Just one more dressl It was worn by a bas bleu a literaay women who is so plain in dress that she seldom permits herself the luxury of wearing anything more elaborate than the round waist and Puritan skirt of a year ago The dress was a grey beize with a full bodice There was a Swiss belt with steel embroidery and more of the steel embroidery embroid-ery trimmed the cuffs and went across the front of the narrow skirt in a broad band Scroll edging in steel was used sparingly upon the waist A high collar was of red velvet and there was also a plastron of the same material With this gown went a hat with grey rustic straw caught up fancifully fanci-fully at one side where a great bunch of red and grey ostrich tips held it in place |
