Show WOMEN OF FASHION They are Wearing Violets Spring Violets Galore FASHIONABLE COAT OF THE HOUR Some Worth Costumes Displayed at a Recent OpeulneA Hiding Habit of the Latest Invention NEW YORK Feb 26 1891Special correspondence cor-respondence of THE HERALD Tho spring violets have bloomed You can see them L here there and everywhere Upon the bonnets in tho corsage and in broad panels adown the sides of dress skirts They are of many shades White violets and black violets for those who mourn purple violets 01 for thoso who have attained a mitigated L stage of douleur and violets pink blue and I variegated for the gay whose dress must be fashionable and pretty unhampered by any set forms of mourning or half mourning It is a harvest of color for those who are debarred from all but black white purple und grey and these hues are all so fashionable fashion-able that they come in many and divers tints A dealer making a specialty of greys exhibited thirtyseven different shades of this color in shoes stockings gloves and dress material And so with the purples t Ginghams pongees challies Bengalinos und China silks are exposed la bewildering variety in this one color though in many different tints And yet so great isthe demand de-mand for the purple and lilac shades that one must select at sight or a return to the shop will find the favorite gone In the soft beautiful suede the prices of f greys and purples have gone up A dollar or more is added to the price of suede grey shiSes gloves keep step with the march in price and grey grey grey is the watchword for manufacturers and storekeepers There are many inquiries for patterns after which to model the long straight coats I open at the sides which are the delight of modistes End the envy of home dressmak AT HOME DRESSES ers The best method is to obtain a per fectlyfitting bodice cut it very long and leave the side seams open This gives j the < fashionable coat of the hour The front is I I turned back in broad lapels and a shirred vest inserted of India silk or crepe de chine of some delicate hue A Worth costume recently imported is 4 of brocaded salmonpink satin upon white groundwork Thn coat is long and the vest is decorated with silver beads which dot it at intervals of a quarter of an inch The main material for reception and ball gowns is satan almost without exception In an assortment of five hundred samples sent to New York by Worth there were but twentyfive of silk and velvet All the rest were satin and were designed to be trimmed with lace beads feathers or gauzy materials A black satin gown for a dowager was heavily elegant with many rows of cut jet black ostrich tips stood plumelike upon the left shoulder and bunches of them decorated decor-ated the skirt High sleeves were in this I gown and in all the imported dresses which wore able to boast of sleeves at allAn all-An enterprising dressmaker has invented L a spring for these highshouldered sleeves which will keep the shoulder puffs in place though the material be ever so light and L gauzy or ever so heavy The sleeves p rather than being gathered in at the armhole arm-hole as formerly are shirred and placed I high i upon the shoulders directly upon the dress material ThIs secures a prettier fit for both shoulders and sleeves As an offset to the newest bodices a deep fall of lace the widest the wearer can afford af-ford is gathered upon the bottom of the basque The lace must be of some soft make and must be so disposed that is not full nor yet scant This frequently forms the only trimming for the skirt which is I plain down to the bottom of the demitram and is slightly relieved at the front and p sides by narrow braiding and ribbon or gilt trimming Foundation skirts are made so that the stray glimpses which one gets of them are not such as to offend the eye If the foundation foun-dation skirt is of plain lining cambric a double row of the dress gcods is sewn around it in two broad bands and a hem of the same is added As the wearer lifts her drapery in crossing a street or draws it aside in seating herself the skirt as it is revealed seems as if trimmed for popular gaze and not for concealment a skeleton in the closet ff y tM 0 F f1 rf I J I Irs 3R i i J j a Ji 1i1b fIR f-IR > rr I 1 I t fir k t tM J tMfI P1 ri Ja fI 7 Jl I V t 5J HATS OF THE SEASON In many dress shades it is impossible to secure lining to match exactly and in this r case the foundation becomes really prett by the addition of a few strips of the dress goods Silk foundation skirt are by all L I odds the most desirable since they hang more peacefully are lighter and adapt I themselves more closely to the figure but I the additional cost of them is so great as to debar wouldbe purchasers Glove makers are particularly accommo = I dating this season Recognizing the great I demand for costumes that shall harmonize throughout have they provided many more shades in kid than have ever before been offered To still further accommodate cus I tomers all the best dealers will stitch tho backs of gloves in any shade desired by the buyer And many will do this without ex tra cost at half an hours notice There has recently been a riding habit invented which will save equestrians many a fall and even in case of a throw will land them plump upon the ground without dragging i drag-ging them by tho skirt of tho riding habit To outward appearances the habit is as other habits are but there is this difference differ-ence The skirt is cut on the bias in such aWay a-way that the right knee which is over the pummel must of necessity carry the skirt with it as the rider slips out of the saddle t So perfectly is this planned that the skirt III all cases exactly follows the direction of heright kneo and such a thing as being dragged by the skirt is an impossibility The inventor of this habit is also a disciple of harmony and color and advocates all black for equestrian use os being more becoming be-coming since it is less apt to reflect the hues of the sun and appear to be many tinted The dull browns greens and blues produce an optical illusion giving tho wearer as she prances past the appearance of being clad in habit that is second cousin to Josephs coat of many colors With the new and improved ways of con ducting dressmakers establishments one is r r I J OA vrrr NEWMARKET reminded of the nickleintheslot machines ma-chines so perfect is the mechanism for turning out work One has only to walk into i a fash ion able modistes and say Here are 200 I wish to go to Mrs As reception next week Do tho best youcan for me with the money On the appointed day home there will come a gown gloves slippers hose and perhaps a fan all in exquisite harmony Accompanying i Ac-companying it vill be a note containing sug gestions as to the flowers to be worn hints concerning the opera cape or wrap and an idea for hair dressing with an offer to sup aI I ply one or all of these if madame desires To be sure not a very elegant outfit can be secured for 200 but S900 will make the wearer dainty as a reed bird in all the little niceties that may be added to tho toilet t Yet so groat is the skill of a true modiste that she will take the sum to be allowed and by properly distributing it will make as good a showing ae with twice the amount if expended upon the dress alone leaving the snoes stockings and gloves to chance F |