OCR Text |
Show byvvays and backwaters by Pat Whitfield San Cristobal De Las Casas: a Cooler Mexico San Cristobal is a true colonial town, entered through an arch, carriage tracks well grooved' beneath. Quiet and unpretentious, it's not only the last major stop before Guatemala but it's also a superb jumping off place for the truly adventurous adventu-rous who are willing to risk a flight to Bonampak's spectacular specta-cular Mayan ;ruins with a bush pilot. In summer, flight schedules always depend on the amount of rain in the jungle but the going rate's still about $25 for a seatrof-your-pants round trip that's absolutely unforgettable. Lush and green in its mountain heights, San Cristobal Cris-tobal is well worth the long trip south and more than a passing glance at the many faces of Mexico it represents. With the tourist dollar shrinking worldwide, we in the U.S. are in an enviable position whether we head north or south, on our own continent. Northward, our dollar's worth $1.15 in Canada. To the south, the peso now stands at 22 Vi to a dolar or about 4 Vi cents. With .that economy, in mind, let's look at a M exican destination that's cool -in degrees, that is. For a summer Mexican vacation. San Cristobal de las Casas in the southernmost southern-most state of Chiapas guarantees guara-ntees pleasant temperatures with only light summer rains at an exhilarating altitude of 7000 feet. Long neglected by tourists because of its remoteness; San Cristobal was visited only be those en route to Guatemala. The last decade . has , brought what locals condsider a boom, but that most visitors -would hardly consider as casts of ttimicnnric - - wares especially rich in leatherwork and weavings. A find in the San Cristobal, market whcih takes place daily except for Sundays is local amber which, though . extremely fragile, is very reasonably priced and a not-at-all typical Mexican folk craft. Highlands Indians from, allover' the region frequent the daily market, all readily distinguishable by unique trappings. Chamulas are the most prevalant and the most , adapted to modern culture. They wear baggy knee-length knee-length trousers with coarse black or white tunics. The Zincanteco are the real scene stealers with their pink blouses, short shorts and beribboned hats-bachelors ribbons float free while husband's streamers are bound. ', For those interested in an in-depth experience in the local indian culture, the Na Balom museum and institute is an absolute must. Run by the widow of a renowned anthropologist, the institute welcomes paying guests and will, arrange horseback tours into the highlands to visit the villages.. The, prices are - unbelievably, reasonable, less than $8.00 with all meals. They do appreciate auto travelers bringing items ' that , cannot be gotten in Mexico. Reached by daily flights to nearby Tuxtla Gutierrez from Mexicao City and Oaxaca, by a ten. hour bus trip from Oaxaca, or an eight hour drive from Oaxaca,- San Cristobal is . rich in both colonial Mexican lore and in -native Indian Culture. Its market is unique in Mexico, in that it rises ten feet above street, level to form a' square pyramid with - |