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Show Wide Brims Grow Wider With Midsummer Coq the Last Word In the Trimming Department PagodaCr owns Point Steeply Upward Jade and Cinnamon the Smart Millinery Colors. nT in years have summer hats teon so lavishly trimmed, but where several different sorts of trimming used to he the vogue IS the old days of lavishly trimmed millinery only one sort of trimming is used now and the lavlshnen is In the quantity of that one sort. Only sport hats rel on ;i r 1 1 1 ri n hand and one small, pertly posed ornament for decoration; any chapeau that claims for Itself distinction and a formal '.haracter must be well trimmed' Coq Immensely Smart Usually coq waits patiently for autumn au-tumn or at least for the moment when autumn hats first disclose them-jMlv&St them-jMlv&St to assert itself as a proper millinery decoration. Bait this year coq could not wait it simply had lo be on summer hats' And truly the coqtrlmmed models are pleasingly mart and sufficiently striking. A sailor hat trimmed wilh a big coq feather Is Illustrated. This is a very smart model from one of New York's best milliners and you must admit that the line of the hat, from the tip of the little brim over the lady's nose, to the tip of the bulginK coq feather at her shoulder Ib exceedingly smart and surprisingly well balanced considering consider-ing the size of the hat In relation to the sire of the feather: These small sailors with huso coq ornaments are the hit of the mid-summer season and one sees them with tailored traveling costumes and with silk afternoon frocks of the restaurant type. Such hats usually accompany very smart costumes long-waist ed tunic bodices of the pictured and the very list word in footwear, which is. in connection with n formal street frock or suit, a pair of long-toed, high heeled boots of the buttoned type. Fashion now Insists upon these buttoned boots If one Is "dressed tip for an occasion " Coq And White 1-Vatlier Ureas! Died Together Some of the mid-summer hats have low crowns encircled with white feather breasts and a long whlto coq feather streams down behind over the brim to the shoulder. Such a hat. recently shown in .1 Manhattan shop. Il of fine navy blue straw with a low rounded crown entirely covered wilh soft white feather breast, a narrow-navy narrow-navy blue grosgrain ribbon encircling he crown near Its Juncture with the brim From the center of the crown a big white coq plum--' streams backward back-ward and downward and gives a stun ring and graceful line to the hat Mld-Summcr Ilats Extreme All the new hats are extreme In one way or another; if not In size, then In sniallnass; If not in shape, then In rimming A few of the plcturo hats of lace arc as large as the huge cartwheel cart-wheel affairs called "Merry Widow" hats a few seasons ago One of these huge, lace hats Is all white, the lace crown and brim, the underfaclng of satin and the trimming, a lace bow In 'he Alsace shape as big as two average aver-age sized pillowcases caught together by a crosswise strip of material There are white lace hats, and black lace hats, and l.ice hats in the new cinnamon cinna-mon or deep buff shade that Is all the rage In Paris This warm cinnamon competes with a cool Jado green, and probably the latter will obtain more favor on this side of the water for -ool colors aro best liked In America, once summer hs.s definitely set In. A F.fth Avenue milliner recently showed a whole window full of Jade millinery with here and there a stunning sll-hlack sll-hlack hat o give -harp contrast. Indeed, In-deed, two Fifth Avenue milliners, both famous the world over, have been running run-ning a sort of race with Jade and eln- 'namon h its; one milliner showing Jade I models and the other cinnamon In a daily change of shapes and styles A I third milliner just off the Avenue, an I envious rival of the two more Important Import-ant firms, exhibited a window of Jade and cinnamon hats and the mixture, it must be confessed, was neither smart nor alluring: Chin i ( rowns Arc Fcrt In Suggestion Some of the mid-summer hats poke upward at the top of the crown into a peaked shape, but as the plcturo of such a hat shows you, there is an Irregular line one slope being much more Inclined than the other; and this gives the hat a smarter silhouette than an ordinary peaked crown, like the Mexican style. The "Chinese" shape, so-called Is partly disguised by a perfect per-fect shower of sweet peas, which tumble from the grouped stems as naturally as though the llowers had been freshly picked from some sweet, old-fashioned garden. The sweet peas are In white and pale mauve and the hat Is made of violet mllan with a brim facing of white straw bra'.d. Another Chinese hat, noted In a milliner's window last week was made of accordion pleated black taffeta. The pleats were gathered together at the center of the crown, on top, and were attached to the brim tinder a hand of narrow ribbon. Then the pleated band was "squashed" down so that It bulged out midway, giving the hat a sort of tarn crown that extended upward up-ward to form a peak. The brim was In sloping mushroom shape and was ejulte broael, from Its edge drooped a narrow black silk fringe. Nothing much on this hat but It was striking enough for anybody! And hy the way, there was a parasol to match It. made of accordion pleated chiffon with a black silk fringe at the edge. lrv Hon-. Plus Mowers Some of the picture hats are trimmed with Alsatian bows of tulle: I j others have airy bows of organdy; the , former models for formal wear, 'the latter for less formal occasions such as beach wear or country club wear. One of the formal picture hats is il-j lustrated a graceful model of fine black straw and tulle with a trimming of black wheat and one snow white flower. This Is a typical restaurant j hat which may be worn with a seml-j seml-j evening gown or with a lingerlo frock of some sheer stuff The white flowers flow-ers on these black hats are lovely Nothing Is prettier, in the millinery ! ; trimming department, than the special glass case full of white flowers dell-cafe dell-cafe white azaleas, gardenias, waxen I camellias and the like. In their purltj and their richness of texture they make the nearby colored posies loOk almost tawdry. A very pretty j A. Srnar-t Rat of French On6m hat for wear with a foulard frock, i a wide brimmed sailor of black straw, faced under the brim with white silk. Four large white gardenias are flattened flat-tened against the crown and between the flowers arc grouped black leaves. A bit of black tulle, twisted behind the flowers adds Its touch of delicate airiness Picture hats with organdy bows and small roses are equally lonely, for morning wear with dimity or linen frock. One such model Is made of while organd and the huge Alsatian bow Is of pink and white organdy hemstitched together in squares, each square measuring about two Inches I across. A pink rose Is caught against ' the brim in lront of the big, airy bow. Another sport hat of Straw lias a bow of blue and white organdy and a spray of blue cornflower". Yelvi t Crowns Even For Mid Summer The one fabric fashion can never let alone, even in summer-time, is velot. This year she introduces It in academic acad-emic looking hat-crowns with long silk tassels swinging from the top. The big black velvet crown fits ocr the ordinary hat crown and rests on i the brim. Such a hat Is pictured. You can see for yourself that with this big velvet crown removed and an ordinary band of ribbon or a silk scarf around the straw crown there would be quite a different type of hat j for a less formal occasion. The pauama sport hat with biim j tucked up at tho back will appeal to the woman who rides In a car most of the time. One can lean back comfortably com-fortably In this hat with no disaster to ' the hat or Interference with one's perfect per-fect relaxation In the tonneau. A pug- I garee of soft silk and a big buckl trim the sport hat very gracefully No wjf Tirsl-sad Last Y One r e is llol.'hmel Like a bailor1 matter what other sort of hat youl have this summer, however, you mustl have at least one sailor' Sailors arotg. at the zenith of their faor and they m arc worn by all ages und all classes of B femininity from the "Colonel's lady to Julie O'Grady." And always they j seem to bo extremely smart with J smart clothes, and correctly simple j with simple garments. The sailor is F worn far down on the head, complete ly covering tho eyebrows, F |