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Show TbHTVBTMi 7: ..V.. Jgftf fc ' W Aroet Crovm often HIHwLiPA ""' ' '-tW zr 7 Tf-if' . Tarn Croons Ingeniously Combined With Mushroom Brims Much Soutache and Some Fur On Early Autumn Models -Gray Hats In Great Vogue. IE has Decn an attempt this year to keep entirely new Ideas L in fall millinery In the back-ground back-ground In other words, not to allow the great sensations In hat-wear to peep out o seclusion prematurely, that Is, beforo the Important opening days In September. But woman must now havo her autumn hat by mid-August; mid-August; or must at least bo making up her mind, about that time, as to what sho will appear in In the way of a head covering the moment Labor Bay has put tho seal of obloquy on all forms of summer millinery; so some hats havo had to escape as hostages for the fall season, and naturally nat-urally Paris has seen to It that those that havo escaped'are sufficiently now and captivating to attract purchasers. Turbans, Sailors And Mushrooms. All the new fall hats may bo divided divid-ed into three classes; sailors, turbans and mushrooms. Any one of these shapes may havo a tarn crown, and tho tarn crown Imposed on a mushroom mush-room brim is a foaturo of tho early fall millinery. Two of tho pictured hats show this idea, and one notes that tho sllhouetto of theso hats is quite decidedly new. Tho mushroom of black silk beaver with a tarn crown of old gold velvet Is particularly new and interesting and this pretty little shapo should be becoming to most faces. Tho scoop brim settles down on tho hair, yot tho crown is well raised above tho band of ribbon trimming trim-ming and the hat has sufficient height to bo symmetrical. Still higher and Incidentally a good deaL moro trying to tho face, Is tho other model with rounded tarn crown bulging above a steep mushroom brim. This hat Is made of black satin with soutache embroidery over the top of tho crown. A bailor wmiwuWk Wm Cluster Loops of soutache spring up between tho joining of crown and brim and an exaggerated silk tassel ornament gives a military note to the hat Soutache Decidedly Tho Hat Trimming Trim-ming Now. Tho new hats do not appear to bo elaborately trimmed because tho lines are kept so simple and unbroken; but thero aro rather elaborate flat trimmings trim-mings In the way of soutache embroidery, embroid-ery, cross-stitch patterns in richly blended colors, chenille embroidery and bead bandings. Tho last named aro accompanied by beaded hatpins j and somo of tho hatpins support bead tassels which swing against the hat as a trimming motif when the pin 13 adjusted. A Reboux modol for autumn au-tumn restaurant wear Is of beige felt and velvet, tho felt brim having a dashing, sombrero lino and thc velvet tarn crown showing an allovcr pattern In self-tone soutache. Thero is absolutely abso-lutely no trimming on this model except ex-cept tho soutache- Chcnlllo cmbroid-ory, cmbroid-ory, spoken of Just above, Is shown on ono of tho pictured hats. This Is a graceful sailor of ollvo colored velvet vel-vet with a self toned grosgraln ribbon llkEesver. and Tucked Velvet P? FeXfn One;of Xh.& - W andBoYToCRT.bb.or. If tenciesKodishiy He around tho crown and chcnlllo embroidery em-broidery In gold and ollvo on crown and brim. Tho young woman who likes sailor hats could not achlovo a smarter effect than this, yet tho hat Is so simple just a sailor with a bit of ribbon and a few strands of coarse wool embroidery! It Is a simplicity that counts for much, however, in style and in distinction; this is ono of tho best hats on today's page. Another graceful shape is pictured In the hat of black panno volvct. Thero is a subtle curvo to the broad sailor brim and tho crown Is rather low but artistically balanced with tho brim proportions. Tho cluster of roses and grapes In mauve and russet tones seems exactly the noto of perfection per-fection needed to finish thc hat The pose of this hat on tho head Is graceful grace-ful also, tho brim dipping down at the front Just enough to shado the eyes and tipping up at tho back Just enough to show tho hair. Turbans nave Becoming Lines. It Is not necessary to mako a spectacle spec-tacle of one's self in a tarn or a mushroom, mush-room, If one has a strong, forceful face which theso coquettish styles do I not become. vThcro aro turbans for I Instance. And the nisw turbans for fall are particularly soft and graceful: they glvo tho suggestion of draped fabric over pliable and not rigid frames. Thero are small turban hats of felt, too, with narrow brims, that aro very smart with tailored ornaments orna-ments of grosgraln ribbon. Such hats aro much more becoming to somo faces than tho picturesque mushrooms and tarns. The woman who wears glasses, for example, no matter how beautiful her countenanco may bo, should not, as a rule, affect a saucy tarn hat, or a babyish mushroom one. It Is well to dress up to eyeglasses. Thoy mako a vast difference in the bccomlngness and suitability of a hat. Inevitably they add dignity if not years to the prettiest face and make pert and coquettish headgear look all wrong. Thero Is Just ono thing that can make piquancy of expression survive sur-vive a pinco nez and that is a retrousse re-trousse nez, or as the French have It, a nez retrousse. Tho tip tilted noso simply cannot suggest dignity, though it has plenty of other charming suggestions, sug-gestions, good humor, vivacity, versatility, versa-tility, kindliness, and so on: and sho whoso nez retrousse Is bestridden by over-so-dlgnifled specs can usually wear mushroom hats, or tarn o' sham-tors, sham-tors, or floppy brimmed picture hats and hope to look well In them. Tho velvet turban illustrated Is one of tho best of tho new modols. Against tho high roll of the brim on tho right side is a burnt ostrich ornament ono of the many new feather "fancies" that are ovldently going to bo so fashionable next season. Thero aro oddly shaped wings, miniature fringes of burnt peacock, pompons of coq, and bands of pasted coquo for military mili-tary hats. Two smart llttlo fan shaped wings aro shown on a new military turban or "servlco cap;" tho "cap" of velvot and tho visor brim of black satin, whllo a conical crown of satin rises from tho center of tho Velvet "cap." Thero aro many hats of felt In soft new shadings of olive, drab, gray, beigo and so on. Gray is a favorite color in millinery this year and somo of the now gray felt hats with velvet crowns aro beautiful. Since so llttlo trimming Is used, it is possible to spend an extra amount on tho hat. itself, and a good hat Is always al-ways a "wise Investment Only exclusive exclu-sive and high priced hats como in tho most desirable shapes and no cheap model Is quite largo enough or quite small enough to be really chic 'mtT in its proportions. Cheap hats also Wtik-B aro often sowed with cheap substitutes jffljfti?; for silk thread, and silk thread is very Hr, important in a felt or velvet hat. The 'nffip-( cheaper thread fades and collects dust IffifnV'' and ultimately robs tho model of its t good style. -IpW'1 Sport Hats In Gny Autumn Colors. $n Tartan plaid sport hats aro tho very jf'P latest cry. They aro mado of tartan B-'3ttVl plaid wool in soft flexible shape, tho aj' crown largo and tho brim rolling so that tho hat may bo dragged any- .igb which-way on tho head. Tho brim, rolled back in front, discloses a co- Jura quettish visor of pleated velvet un- mHk derncath. This shades tho eyes and adds a novel touch to tho sport head- !Hk Many white hats are shown for the EBtt between-season beginning August flf- K tccnth or thereabout and lasting until tho formal millinery openings in Sep- l9Gt tcmbcr. One is a white plush turban 9Hk of rather dlstinctlvo shape. Tho only trimming Is a wee bow of black molro jH ribbon posed Just over ono eye on tho IHsl steep brim. HP |