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Show I' m I tWHAT THE BEST -DRESSED WOMEN ARE GOING TO WEAPyj if H J ' ii i i in i r i mi i , i , wPvTawmanOTw1BMVMB . ipi I .: Par-is fashions in gowns or '." J I K CREPE AND CREFON ' .:;-' ' ' ' W) I I ' tirRACEFUL Costumes of Exquisite Fabrics Trimmed with Lace and Embroidery 4 :Ay IB H Sll m h'Wl'WH ''f C'V ' RS C15v J ,,4r'S1HllDLJ P'nc CP" Soic Costume adi 'ft H rSftF&i ?'( ?NSr SSTOa W -yfKTiff I " QK 6M-ES li i?lii5wS. Inclusive Copj right, 1011, v55 r l H iWfi j &'i1 IvMm - MEfcV &fe31V Ne Wk Herald Compan, M Photo Copyrfchl. 1011. by UentUngtr - I W MS i 11 til ? H InBynKl Dinner Gown of Pale Mauve H HHK Kj Pboto CopyriRijI, 1011, by Jltntllngrr H 'vHB Eiclmlw Copyrtbt. 1L1, H H3" K07 Vork IIcraM Company H BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. COMBINING contrasting colors and materials U a marked characteristic charac-teristic of the present fashions, and ecry new stjle that ajipnrs H indicates that it ill continue H popular all winter. The ncnest H models exhibited all bear witness to this, H and it must be admitted that there is H much to recommend it. TbiTe is much H ' mora distinction and individuality, for in- B stance, than when only the una color or H tone of color Is employed, while different H materials, if carefully selected, sliou oil to H greater advantage than if only the one is H used for the entire Kown B Graceful Crepe Costumes. H This is the teason of the icar when a H kmart gown is of the greatest service, and H'' the same style is most useful all vintcr in H the house. A charming gown of crApc dc H Chine of most graceful design is of dark H marine blue, mode out a pIe blue lining H combined with satin and chiffon, both H plain and embroidered. The skirt, straight B but quite wide, has a deep flounce or baud H of embroidered chiffon. 0cr this falls H the skirt of crOpe do Chine, open at the HL s side nnd finished where it opens with n H A row of satin buttons. The waist is full, H t with kimono sleeves trimmed with wide H bonds of satin. Across the front of the H ' waist Is also a band of tho satin, abovn which Ih a -round yoke of embroidered H chiffon to match the embroidery on tho H skirt. A still higher yoke is of irius- parent chiffon. The blt in placet) high H and.thc waist blouse over it, quite aftr B the models of five jears ago. An under H sleeve of chiffon finished wjth a bond of H the embroidered chiffon falls b.-low- the Hr' elbow, and is most attructi under the B ' straight .kimono slcerc. Tho Flirt is PBBJ X ,round. the same length all around, .long " ''HHilBlBBBBilVBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB! enough just to touch the ground. This same model has beeu worked out in different differ-ent colors, light and dark, but the original marjne blue, with the lighter blue in lining and0rhift"on. lb charmingly ettective CrOpo de' Chine is to be fashionable this autumn, both nlaiu and hgurcd, and all the different colors Unit are exhibited arc most exquisite in bbadc and the va riety is endless. All tho blues are most popular, as are also yellow and green in wonderful tonfs, mauve aud heliotrope and three shades of pink a- deep raspberry rasp-berry and a pale shell pink especially to bo uote,d. These furnish choice for the most critics'!, while for the. quieter taste the grajs and blacks arc more desirable tluu cter. Crepe dc sole is one of the new materials that have already won much fuor. and there are new silk and atin finished crtpes that Jiave a wonderful tihccn aud beauty and for afternoon and eveuing are most o'ffccthc and becom-iug. becom-iug. Restaurant and Theatre Gowns. For restaurant, dinner one theatre gowni crCpc do Chine is In great demand,, whether the gown be entirely of the crCpe dc Chine or combined with chiffon. A model that a( once attracts attention is of mnuve wjth wide panel of a darker shadf. It is one of the original designs that are the delight and jo of any woman to whom the fashion is becoming becom-ing and tho despair of every noman who cauuot wear tin t)c. It would scarccly bc posolblc for any but an extremely clever clev-er dressmaker to copy and is neceiNnril-expjrDive; neceiNnril-expjrDive; o that th average ivomnn can have the satisfaction cf knowing the cost would not be within hir menus, cen If her nguro were buluacntly beautiful to penult of her wearing the stylo. The fikirt Ik made with long pointed train and! ' EcdBS? WS' S i tH ((m ' Saw " " JiH Msm i m Ca IP,i::'' ' I i W$m mm, mm Ly K:" WWBwIffeX If ' -, Marine Blue Crepe M M l'T''t ' " ,- de Chine Gown v f t b -r s ' " Pooto Coprrisbt, 1911, by RcnUInjcr ' '.' 'TffJ Bicluilve Copyrirbt, 19U, Nevr York Herald, ComDaiiju , . .1., , is long jji front nnd at.lb4 aidw also. lb wide prtiiyl iu front i most uuukutil aud l one sidu is not fbtoiK-d to tb skirt, aud is finished tlap wjlth k Jwiut. 'The waigt Ik lniped. On bide corre-' Ionds with the panel ami 9 drapod to look as though it were jiftrt of the wimc The left side is eovcroU with s'wide re-?r re-?r of co that Is ortrght fp under the wide ilowiug khrtoiio swi of chiffou. Soft folds of flesh color vbjfftyi AH in thr upper part of Uie waist audVe Uie effect ef-fect of a waist -cut mult IpUer than It renllj in This lnoiM hf ben vonjucl ucao&sfully in white wijjJuTrh black I chiffon, but if the original color hcbenie u carried out it ic most cffectie. It is lu-t suited to n tall, oleiidtr woman, for the liiii's woulu'roquire coHIdemWe uicmII-fieation uicmII-fieation jo nmk'e It becoming to h stout figure , All drpd eSWts are noticeable In the gown nd all arc mnd high waist, and the wahita fall Uhac over thr Mt and oftnn hide any 5004I lina. At the Mime lime, whi wellIuade tlie stle k becotn-ins becotn-ins to tall, afenrler w umeii. but ther ar fei- of the present fashions Uiat n b wotii by aDyAvonuui at all large Apparently Appar-ently It ovular uql what may bo the bunt, waist or hip measure, and the uewest cor als apparently arc ouly yorn to make the hlr appear smaller. In reality the waist ure cither fitted ocr light lined linings or ar worn over cloe fitting bmstiftrrR that hold the luiht up, for (hero are few modern mod-ern figures thnt look well uncorscted. Under Un-der all this cnrvIois looe drapery there are well defined lines. The amount of width to the skirt is nl-TOjs nl-TOjs carefully qousldcrcd in keeping with flu rral sire. E"or the stout woman many plea tings arcmod'fitoj'or done away with. For a elfiider wdman. the gathers or pbxtt-mss pbxtt-mss cnu baiiauy oj are becomlBg. Plum colyr cropc ife Chine or crvp de I o!e is fashion iblf this autumn and there are sceral diflcrcnt shades to selnl from An atlractixe model, and most unusual onr. lia a jihiu front to thp skirt. The side-s are I rimmed wjlh open work silk passempnteriu or braiil of tho same slinde, outlined with a bias fold of the material, nnd toward the hem are held back with ornaments of pTRsementerie nnd fringe. The waist is made of the pnvempnterie and cropo di voie nnd is draped, with the drapery finished at Hie side with ornaments orna-ments .ind fringe, the same ns on the skirt. There is a joke, jnbot and tindorslevcs of the finest ecru lace, nnd thla gies jugt the tourh of contrant that Is needed to mnko it becoming In black this is also effective, nnd. if so desired, in place of the pnspc-meuterip pnspc-meuterip waist a satin can be substituted. It is mi original design that has nlroudy proved popular nnd will undoubtedly cou-Unue cou-Unue fo be fashionable all winter. f White Crepon Costume. Crt'pe de Chine, crOup dp s0'c ""' crepon are nil on tho iSvnc order of material, ma-terial, but there is difference euough be-' tweiyi -them to glvo arictj: each and all combine well with witiu or chiffon, but for the moment chlfToJi wiilt crepon is oue of the Intcs't faKhiona. 'Vitin combining com-bining of two materials worktt out remarkably re-markably i ell in the nil white gowns, and often a white gown will 1 made without a touch of any color and jet he strikingly effective owing entirely to the contrast of materials. A popular model of white crepon is most exquinitoly embroidered em-broidered in heavy white silk. The model 13 a straight skirt that bumps from a high waisted belt. It opcn3 Rt the side lo phow a bo: plaited skirt of en i Too trimmed with a knife ideating of chiffon. The upper up-per skirt is ioug, with a round train, and where it is slashed to show the underskirt the fides are round, not square. The waist Is a full blouse with tr. ( ' ' Htnliroldensl Crtj de SoU Ocwn broad embroidered belt nnd has a ur-plico ur-plico yoke of fineat nvl edged with a Luife plaiting of chiffou. Th elbow xlecvos are (iuished with a bro.ul bind j of tin' fnibroidery. There is no color on :;j," tlie gown, and when the model has been ' jt copied in color' there is no contrasting shade ever combined with it. but. as has I jp been s.iiil. the contrast of materials gives V 1 all the effect needed to make it distinct- 1: h.; ie. Yokes of Fine Lace. The surplice yokes of fine larc or chiffon Kfj are to be noticed on the newest gowns of 1, the iiitiimn, and are to becoming thnt tie rfi fashion will inevitably become most popu- V H Inr. The oxtremeli Idw cut evening gown pkl Is rendered possible by the surplice .voke 'TJ1 or crossed folds of chiffon, while the the- fjj? .Ure or restaurant dinner gown with the j? crowed folds of fine Inrc or chiffon is al- Inmost In-most without exception far more beconi- f' Ij, ing. but en re must be tnkn to have tho L folds fitted to he close, otherwise they & z ii mr 1 Atterbn Faki. Sri or Blo PUX. j is stand up and quite spoil any grncefnl lines j n of the shoulders and neck. An inner yoke f IS of finest net is a good foundaUon to which ; g tho folds can be tacked. The Inner yoke, 7 3 cut quite low, will only show Just a little, (1 and. Indeed, can be cut away so that it 1 ? need not show at all when once the folds ik are properly laid and fastened. i Hf"t Belts and girdles on tho new gowns are ' m narrower, and the line of velvet or satin ' Hjfc as a finish where waist and skirt join is ft stlir fashionable, but a more elaborate : finish of embroidered bell or folds- of satin, soft silk or velvet is more in keeping 1 Iff -vv 1th the more elaborate gown While v? I the blousing of the waist to some extent Tim bides the belt, none the less must the belt jfr be carefully considered. In the' days, B wliqn so much attention is paid to the de- H tail of dren, there can be nothing ncg- rB lected simply localise it may not be. in cvi- B dunce. lining, trimming, the smallest P low or ornament each Is choen with refer- B pnee to the color nidraatcrlal of tho gowu K nnd also as to whether it will lc becom 'H ing. Tho finished appearance of the well jH dnrssi-d woman of to-dny is due to this jjH very care of detail, and the simplest gown. I 'H if really smart, has had more thought j 'H given to its finiMi than the casual observer J -M could ever realize. H |