OCR Text |
Show If CMR.IEii1 PyVBR, -"I.ait?o, ' 0 H a w& W . rH i B V- 11 til 111 fl iiH TS 11 0 ' H Jj' J'" r;;::;. 4! " By HELEN FALCO .F": -: ' ;v': fttF v ; : 1 Height the Vogue if Now -in Millinery i I I fThe Wide Hat, With Its Pretty Little Custom of I Gouging Men's Eyes Out, is no Longer I ' To Be Worn iiTHE hat wlth the taffeta bow ls 1 I the hat of tho deml-salson or 4b? Vatii. tlmc between the sunny Il-fsummcr and the ruddy autumn when Wi It la too cool for nlry fashions and M yet too soft and balmy for furs and 1 1 felts and fluffy beavers. The hat with C the taffeta bow comes from Paris of Wt course. And It looks the part. The f hat has a high crown and the bow has 'j aerial pretentions. Such bows were 'j nover seen beforo on land or sea. and : yet In splto of their oddity they are I very pretty and strangely becoming. "They are usually placed at the back of ho hat and start out with two modest oops which nestlo prettily against the rown of tho hat. But the ends! Ah, I here's the rub! They gather them-elvcs them-elvcs Into pleated folds and poise hcmsolves as If for flight. Then they lse straight up, expand Into wings s they go, higher than tho crown. Igher than any feather you ever saw 'he woman who comes toward you rearing one of theso bows makes you tilnk of tho "Wright brothers, of Att-:ood, Att-:ood, of Santos Dumont, of Blerlot and ther aspiring daredevils of the air. Vhen the hat Is of furry pale beige elt and tho bow 13 of rose or pale luo tho effect ls something to make ou remember It long after It has asscd. "When the hat Is of -white and he bow Is of ma'uve " or yellow ft ls trlking enough, but when It ls of lack with a bow of vivid green, as I often ls, you wonder feebly what the rorld Is coming to and think of those uge hats of a year or two ago and eflect that thoy were not so very odd fter all. Height ls the watchword In now mllll-icry. mllll-icry. Tho wide hat was a menace In ilg and crowded cities. Men got their yes gouged out in crowded public conveyances con-veyances and complained. No won-ler. won-ler. Tho rims of hats threatened to lccapltato thoso who sat on either lde of them and there were sad stories T of women who had to go In and out of cars sldoways, which was undlgnl-1 undlgnl-1 fled, as a rule, and sometimes very 'I laughable. Then the flat went forth ! that hats were to be small, and they 1 UIU (JfUW 1UU1IU aiUU UUIJIJJUUI., UI1U 1U1 a moment were almost flat. Now they have taken a leaf from tho book of the New York builder and make up In j height what they lack In width. Feath- crs aro placed hlRh too. Some of them stand up close to tho tall crowns like ! sentinels that have grown sleepy for their tops droop over flufflly. B Three ostrich tips froth over the I crown of a hat of dove-gray felt. The ta feathers aro of bright blue and are the -yi sole trimming of tho hat. The effect Jflw. Is wondrously good and the gray and jKf blue combination ls very becoming to ' most complexions. Mi A handful of smart hats ls shown In flf? the Illustration. There Is ono of the I typical tall-crowned ones, lor .instance, mi with a rather broad and drooping brim Vs of bright bluo Xaced with bright green, HE; the crown smothered from view by z masses of exquisite velvet and silk. f flowers delicate bluo hydrangeas and ' green leaves. Thl3 hat ls simple and, JO" yet there Is an enormous amount of style about Its shape and color combination. com-bination. There lsa soft silk beaver crushed up BWrihffVMIrfftTr'W'"w.iuMM I Mmm9 In Irregular lines In front, and Jauntily ornamented with a splendid ostrich plume of brilliant rose pink. A picture hat with plumes of yellow and whlto Is further adorned by a single big yellow rose. The hat Itself ls of palest primrose. A smart llttlo hat that Is a combination com-bination of tho tailored walking hat and the Napoleonic toque, is of golden brown beaver, turned up back and front and adorned with a wide soft band of gold tissue ribbon. A Harlequin hat that rounds over the face like an lnvorted crescent moon ! Is of mauve silk beaver and the ostrich plumes that froth over the brim are of snow white. Another hat of m.iuvo Is turned up In front and ls trimmed effectively with a wide band of tinted luce In a tone paler than that of the hat It- self. It also has a tall upstanding plume after tho latest mode of the day. the smart, round turban la a decided novelty and worn by tho right woman very becoming, it is of tho popular bright blue ,wlth the wide, flat bow of black, heavy .silk net. A high, full fan of sold or silver tissue, placed at the back of a small, flatSoque of colored velvet Is a French, fancy of the soason. Those butterfly pnd aeroplane fans and bows at the back of the head originated at Monto ,Carlo where the boys wore made of gauze, sometimes gleaming with gems. They were attached to jeweled bands which encircled the brow of the wearer and were worn, not as hats, ljut merely as colffuro ornaments. Ono of tho novelties of tho season ls an owl's head with round yellow eyes. Mr. Owl Is not the gray and brown wise bird of our acquaintance. Ho ls a millinery owl with flat feathers of bright green and from the top of his round head spring two half curled black ostrich quills! A weird owl Indeed Flowers aro much used. Indeed they seem to bo almost aB much In favor as they were two months ago, when summer wns warm In the air. Some of the flowers would not be readily recognized by horticulturists, but what do milliners reck of naturalists? A hat, for instance of black velvet, faced with blue silk, has Ita brim turned up directly di-rectly In front with a veritable ladder of whlto and dream roses and gray leaves. Another has pink pansles on n hat of honey colored panne so honey colored that ono would think It was a of the llttlo bonnet itself. This little hat has long strings of black velvet ribbon which aro Intended to be tied In a bow high up on ono sldo under tho car. A superb color effect 13 given by a large flat hnt of sliver braid woven to look llko straw. Thii crown and most of the brim are smothered In tho foamy flues of a mauvo ostrich feather, and out of the mass of mauve, one beautiful beauti-ful pink rose with curling edges to its petals, rears Its lovbly head. Grapes aro to be I used this winter on many smart hats and Bllver, gold, 1 while and black grapfes aro to take the place of those whldh might by any chnnco be taken for the real fruit. A hat of white beavorl veiled In black chiffon ls plied high yith grapes, black and white with silver leaves. It was unkind of tho mlllh er who designed this hat to dlvulgo 11 at It was ordered by tho wlfo of a 'ell known wine agent. Upstanding bows of flowered Bilk will be worn on some of the small closo fitting fur turbans la.tcr in the season, and a sable toque that Is to bo seen In Fifth avenue 'In the window of a A-ery fashionable shop, sports a bow of silver sil-ver lace In front of Us soft upturned brim. The hats made for tho scashoro this summer of Turkish toweling have their counterpart this season In hats with ciowns of cut velvet that look like fur The brim Is usually faced with contrasting con-trasting color such a brown crown with a brim of rose or pale blue. already thick with sapphires. The only trimming on the crown of this hat Is a hugo squat, white plume, and ono of the same shapo In blue. ' This Idea Is carried out effectively In black and white. Tho hat Is of black panne and the upturned brim ls faced with whlto panne. Tho feathers feath-ers aro white nnd wired to stand perfectly per-fectly straight at the side of the back with Just tho broad tips rolling over In a shower of coarse flues tipped with black. The streaked feather ls still seen, although al-though there ls nothing very new about It. Tho color effects obtained In this manner wero too good to be lost, how-(cv6r, how-(cv6r, -and bluo streaked with green, purplo with brown aro various tones, or roso and blue with tan are In demand. de-mand. These plumes are very wide, although In some Instances quite short. One of them almost covers the hat and two of them complotely hldo tho crown of the average head piece and throw a feathery Bhower over the brim as well. Another Idea In feather trimming ls to tho loft shoulder, whero It rests al-tho al-tho side and allowed to swirl around to tho loft shoulder whore It rests almost al-most under the chin. This Is supposed to soften the face In a marvelous way. Black velvet will bo much used for facing brims this season, and nothing Is more becoming to tho woman with fair skin or fair hair. Velvet In color Is softening to tho face, but In black It seems to enhance every good fca-turo fca-turo In the face and soften the defects. Enormous pansle3 aro seen for tho winter hat. They aro of reddish purple, pur-ple, of deep blue and of bright yellow yel-low spotted with purple TImo was whon pansles wero looked upon as flowers for tho dowager only, but these overblown specimens arc being bought by young things with starlit eyes and smooth faces and placed on hats that a baby could wear. They aro some- times encircled by silken leave3 and placed In n cloud of purple or yellow tulle. The effect ls of white lace, and Its only trimming Is a big, pale yellow pansy with a purple heart, reBtlng at dno side as If a hugo yellow butterfly had settled there to rc3t. A smart picture pic-ture hat trimmed with pansles Is of white panne, dented sharply over the left sldo and thon rolled up In a. graceful grace-ful curve. This turn-up part ls faced with a one-Inch band of purple satin and tho crown ls almost smothered with upstanding velvet pansles In various vari-ous lovely tones of purple, with an Irregular Ir-regular bow of purple tono arranged In the centre with lt3 ends pushed through tho pansles to tho edgo of th6 brim. Tho "sporting" hat, as they would say In England, of the moment, is of hairy felt of gray, tan, whlto or brown, trimmed with a band anO quill with a few straggly flues at tho end of It to shapen its asperities. These hats aro used for country walks for golf and driving and one sees them occasionally oc-casionally In town worn by tho girl who puts her favorite pastimes beforo fashion or her fellows. For automobllrng there aro delicious hoods and bonnets of cashmero and soft corded silk. A few have appeared mado of watered silk, which as Its namo Implies, stands the rain well Most of tho auto bonnets havo outstanding outstand-ing brims to protect tho face from the wind, and thoy are faced with a contrasting con-trasting color. Waterproof veils In two tones are worn with auto hats and some lovely combinations aro seen, as, for Instance, gray and rose, mauvo and beige, and bluo and tan. These veils arc arranged so as to be detached at a touch, and they form rosettes at either Bldo and wind softly round the neck to protect tho wearer from the wind. Some of them have sun-shields at the back like the old-fashioned sun-bonnets, while others are fitted and curved cunning- I i-i Mm0F Jilpr PliFW Wt&sF v iMrllftlr,"'fl a hat made of straw Instead of panne. A llttlo bonnet of demuro outline Is of gray, soft, flnc felt, edged with a quilling of black velvet ribbon and softened and softened about the face with a double frilling of Valenciennes lace. Just above one ear there Is fas-toned fas-toned a posy of yellow buttercups, pink roj.es and purple violets a posy quaintly quaint-ly rustic llko tho studied simplicity Facings for brims In bright hues aro to be the rule rather than tho exception excep-tion A hat of white soft felt ls faced with blue velvet In a tone known this season as Pacific, meaning a soft and mild bluo which brings out tho rllnk In one's checks and the azure depths of some eyes. It has a shndc of green In It too, a clear, cool tone as If one had dissolved an emerald In an ocean I JWKJ I ly so that the neck and hair arc com-plctly com-plctly covered. PiquanT : Relishes s ' Suggestions From Various s Housekeepers H Apple-Mint Jelly. MY FAMILY likes mint jelly and, personal preferenco for some- M thing other than the two-minute H gelatine sort, or tho Importers' variety, jH led to an experiment which may bo of H interest, as it had a successful outcome. IH Tho base of my Jelly was tart green H apples green in both senses. I pro- IH cceded In tho regular way excepting jH that I used very little water, and was , jH as expeditious as possible that the ' H Julco was strained to a Jewel-like clear- IH In tho beginning I put In tho kettlo a ' IH largo bunch of fresh mint. After tho H Julct was strained to a Jewel-llko clear- H ness I bruised another bunch of the H herb and left this In the Jelly until H tho final straining, at which time I add- IH ed enough vegetable color paste to glvo IH a polo tint of green. Anne Warner. : jH Tomato Paste. H A famous Southern housekeeper gave "i me this recipe for tomato paste, which H ls less trouble than it sounds: "Wash and slice, without peeling, eight quarts H oi ripe tomatoes; peel and slice two jH largo white Spanish onions; scrap and IH slfco four French carrots; chop a bunch 1 jH of celery, tender leaves and stalks; H stow with a teaspoon each of broken ' stick cinnamon, wholo pepper corns I JH and cloves, tied in a bag; add four ) H teaspoons of salt and simmer until all ; IH is soft enough to bo pressed through H a sieve, after which it Is to bo returned i H to tho flro and cooked In a doublo H boiler, of if not, constantly stirred, ' H until so thick that a llttlo spread upon. H a saucer to cool makes a thick, firm jH paste. Spread half an Inch thick H upon flat earthen dishes wet with cold H water and dry in tho sun or in an al- IH most cool oven. Cut in sheets and pack ,- r. H In tin boxes with a sheet of waxed H paper between each layer. A plcco of this four inches square, boiled in a pint of water and thlckoned, makes a de- " " A Jl Melons and quickly prepared tomato"' --' H Cold Catsup. JPP"H " Peel ono peck of sound, ripo ioma- ir?r-!fH toes, without scalding them; chop fine ff V jH and strain, rejecting tho Juice. Mix fK-' 1 one cup each of chopped onions and i Jl celery, ono cup of uugar, one-fourth I M cup of salt, one cup of whlto mustard M seed, one teaspoon each of ground H cloves, cinnamon and black pepper and ' I four red poppers, chopopd tine. Stir rM all well together, add three pints of ,'H cider vinegar, stir again and seal. This, i will kcop well. M. H. , :l Cold ReUsh. f H Chop fine one peck of rlpo tomatoes -H and let stand over night. Then add ' 'H four green poppers, seeded and chop- 'M ped, ilvo chopped onions, two cups of i -vjl chopped celery, Ave ounces of white ' lj mustard seed, one-half cup of salt, I , f .M four cups of brown sugar and flvo I '- cups of cold vinegar Stir several; ! "H times and put up cold. In cans. R. M. ' i jH Grape Relish. H r This easily mado relish ls much" ap-" predated In our family, especially as M an accompaniment for mutton or lamb. T H "Wash and stem a quantity of green, j t H seedless, sultana grapes. Placo thorn' Kl In a doublo boiler with a few sprigs , jl of fresh mint and cook slowly at back vH of rango or In tho hay-box until the H grapes look whlto and swollen. Cover .IH with whlto wlno vinegar, and for every H cup of vinegar add one-half cup of ' t H sugar nnd one-half teaspoon of salt. H Add a few vino leaves, If obtainable. H Bring to a boll, boll three minutes, k add a few drops of vegetable green 'H coloring, If approved, and put up In H small cans. Tho coloring is often qulto unnecessary, even for thoso who want H a green pickle. Somo prefer a smaller 'H proportion of sugar and tho addition ( H of a few chillies. L. E.T. I H |