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Show The Salt Lake Tribune The wine scene Sunday Magazine November 27, 1983 S2T ' Appropriate wine for the holiday feast by Carole von Schmidt ONE BIG DILEMMA of a holiday season filled with good foods and fine wines is what specific choices to make in varietal wines which accompany the feast. This is especially true if the main entree is turkey. However, the American favorite ham can produce as many quandaries. Only the standing rib roast generates a clear choice. The European favorite, roast goose, becomes popular as this entree gains availability. Yet, many cooks are unfamiliar with appropriate and convivial wine choices. In some American homes near the coast, a whole baked fish, especially salmon, offers a special twist to this traditional meal While there is no set rule for regarding what wine goes with what food, the connoisseur pays attention to the side dishes, stuffing, sauce, glaze and accompanying vegetables just as much as to the entree of meat, foul or fish. With a turkey select the wine to complement the flavors and textures of the ingredients of the stuffing, the baste, and the sauce or chutney side dish. The choice should enhance the nuances of the fruit tones, the nut tastes and the spice predominance, for example. If you choose a Southwestern interpretation, make a stuffing with green chilies and sausage. Corn meal, pine nuts, onion and cumin are likely side flavors here. Thus a dry, austere, yet oaky dark Chardonnay with a strong body and distinct aftertaste can mingle with these flavors on its own merits. Sweet potatoes, pecan bread and a mixed squash puree are all appropriate choices to complete this meal. Therefore, a Matanzas Creek (Sonoma), a Chalone (Monterey) or its second label Edna Valley, and a Far Niente ria. (Napa) all fit the crite- bread stuffing with fresh oysters requires a less forward wine. The spices include shallots instead of onions, lots of sweet butter, and French tarragon. An Alsatian Riesling or a Gewurztraminer from Trimbach is a perfect choice due to its delicate spiciness, for the white wine is dry yet fruity, subtle yet distinctive. Boston-styl- e A WINNING combination of chestnuts and homemade spicy sausage are the bonus in the favorite bread stuffing of June Glaser, wife of Dr. Les Glaser, president of the Wasatch Food and Wine Society. She serves brussel sprouts in a cream sauce, and a carrot puree for the needed color to round off savoriness. Dr. Glaser, who always chooses the wines for his wifes artful cuisine, prefers an older Pinot Noir from his cellar to showcase the rich stuffing. His current favorite is Llords and Elwood early 1970s vintage; however, an Acacia, St. Clair Vineyard, 1980, or a Trefethen, 1980, Pinot Noir will bring equal adulation. Both are now available at at the Trolley Wine Store. Pinot Noir, the celebrated varietal of Burgundy, blesses the food, because its complex flavors are potent but not crass; Pinot Noirs berry fruitiness abounds. For ham, decide if the predominant curing flavor is smoke or sweet Then select a wine accordingly. Likewise, the baste for ham is THEME CROSSWORD critical to the choice of the wine. For example, a brown sugar, pineapple, cherry covering requires a Rose or a French Chablis, whereas a mustard, raisin and nut sauce can handle a fuller bodied wine. For the light touch, try DAqueria Tavel Rose; for the lavish inclination serve St. Chapelle Rose of Pinot Noir. This Idaho product is a pure varietal BRETT CLIFFORD, Trolley Wine Store manager, traditionally fixes a domestic goose with a dried fruit stuffing. Also my personal choice, the stuffing can include apples, prunes stewed in Madeira wine, apricots soaked in brandy, mandarin oranges, or any combination thereof. Optional is a bread base and hot or sweet sausage or the ground-u- p goose giblets. Fresh sage or thyme add a special zest to the dressing. Clifford suggests a red Burgundy to complement the dark, rich, juicy fowl. Champagne is, as always, the perfect festive choice or special occasion wine to accompany any entree, at breakfast, lunch or dinner. Bob and Jill Peterson plan to serve a French pink Champagne with their holiday feast. The selection is admirable because the blush color looks unusuaUy inviting in a tall flute glass; the stronger flavor of a Champagne made with Pinot Noir grapes also allows leeway in the matching food tastes. Furthermore, the body of the bubbly is strong enough to hold out throughout the entire dinner. Schramsberg, the premier California sparkling wine vinter, has a lovely, delicate colored mousseaux available locally, if you dont want to bear the cost of its French counterpart To serve Champagne with k dessert, try Extra Dry. It will make a raspberry and Mandarin orange trifle sing. Remember, extra dry is not dry, rather it is the medium ground of sparkling wines range from sweet to puckery dry. Beef for the feast is typical of r wines wine made by removing the skins from the Pinot Noir grape immediately as the crushing begins. Gilding the goose with a wine selection, Ashby Decker, expert on Burgundian vintages, selects a red Burgundy. If hes lucky, the goose will be a wild Canadian Honker that hes bagged; if his luck is bad, the feast will be a turkey. Decker rightly points out that with turkey and its light and dark meats, the diner should have a choice of wines, that is, a white Burgundy for the light meat, a red Burgundy for the dark meat Expect to pay $20 to $40 for a good Burgundian wine, but they are available locally. UTAH Piper-Heidsiec- many Americans choice. Especially when a sauce is added for finesse, the beef lends itself to a celebration. Try a sauce with Shiitake mushrooms made with Madeira and accompanied by roast onions and Yorkshire pudding. A good choice of wine with this meal is Chambolle- Musigny. Or, for the pure American touch, the Acacia, Madonna Vineyard, Pinot Noir from Carneros District provides a special treat. When young, this Pinot Noir holds against strong flavors, however, is drinkable. For an older red wine, select a good California Cabernet Sauvig-nosuch as Stags Leap or a Zinfan-dfrom Amador County. This latter selection can be matched with a stuffed loin of pork, too. GAME FALLS into the same category as beef when a wine is melded, so another option for either venison, a wild duck or goose or beef is a Ctaflu du Val Merlot. A dry, yet softer red wine than Cabernet, Merlot has been marketed on its own for only a few short years. It is worth a try. n, el For fish, whether baked or poached, a Sauvignon Blanc is the best bet. There are, since the revival of this varietal, many good choices from California vineyards as well as the French classic Sancerre. The Robert Mondavi, Reserve, is a superior example of a California Sauvignon Blanc; for less money, try the McDowell, a true bargain. Also called Fume, this dry, grassy white wine is also made by Parducci, Santa Ynez and Almaden, to name a few wineries who bring glory to this vIP rietal grape. rj. By William Lutwiniak ACROSS 1 Stadium access 5 German musical family 10 Coral, for one 14 Proclivity 18 In ones bonnet 19 WW II torpedo comp. wd. craft 20 Monte 21 Wreck 22 32 Down attraction: 3wds. 26 Relinquishments 27 Has a strong liking for 28 Entreat 29 Welshman DOWN 1 Rooter's cry 2 Take (acknowledge) Million: pref. Water birds Gem features Come to naught Dove talk 2001 computer German bread 10 Speeds 11 Dynasties 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 12 Kay follower 13 Nautical hazards: 14 2wds. Fast food order 15 Not Dem. or Rep. 16 Lemon ending 17 Male descendant 30 Angler's tie-o31 Affectionate touch 34 Precludes we all?" 37 38 Overhead transport 40 Barbara and Anthony 41 Utah's highest point: 2 wds. 43 Mauna 44 Baked goods 45 Kind of soil 47 Adherents: suffix 48 K0 49 Ordinal ending 50 Utah flowers: 2 wds. 54 Cold dish 55 Bandsman Paul 57 Sen. Goldwater 58 Great men 59 Fog or mist 60 Marie or Jeanne: abbr. 61 A camera 62 Odors the hole 64 66 NBA attribute 69 Assigns roles 70, 79 Across: Famed drag strip: 3 wds. 72 Surmount 73 Nerve network 74 Reykjavik's land: abbr. 76 Haspirations! 77 Chinese: pref. 78 rule 79 See 70 Across 83 Same 84 Corrida figures 20 Genet and rasse 23 Twixt Tinker and Chance 24 Leaving 25 Flight prefix 30 Superfluous item 31 Raglan 32 Home of The Jazz: 3 wds. 33 Indian language group 34 N.Y.Sen., 48 50 51 52 53 54 56 58 1899-191- 35 36 37 38 39 42 45 46 1 Nurse Cavell Utah: 2 wds Tire center Untidy Comes down Loading place Office mail Culture medium 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 97 Life of - Finn's friend Bridge boohoo No-n- Roosevelt Environmental prefix Tribe's pride Fill the bill Famed singing group: 3 wds. "The Love A 103 104 Bellowing 105 " of Two Cities" 106 107 108 109 110 NL-- Gram. abbr. Itemize Corroded Used henna Old Nick 80 Caesar's brother Clan units Ghosts" author Vatican language 81 Ovids book 82 83 85 86 88 90 Former graduates Old Persian coin Dovish lady Sickly Movecrabwise Art Gaston's aunt Glossy fabric Turnpike income Go for 61 Garden green (pinch-hi- t) 62 Beat It colloq. 91 Chateau room 63 Commentaries" 93 NM art colony . author 94 Ella's thing 64 Actor Walter, et al. 95 Sly 65 NFL-e- r 96 Kennel sound 66 Inebriated 97 PTA-e- r 67 "A votre 98 68 Hound's clues shoestring 99 Legal thing 71 Nov. clout 74 Having equal angles 100 Kind of cycle 101 standstill 75 Stewardship 102 Mr. Steiger 77 Hauled logs - 4 4 ( |
