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Show By LADY DUFF-GORDON ("LUCILE") WAR'S influence in dress manifest itself strikingly in the head dresses that we, will see at the theatre, the opera and It dinners and balls this TTicter. Glance at the impressive assemblage of them cn this page. Into the assemblage has crept the cote of the brotherhood of the nations. Dress, without doubt, will become more cosmopolitan after the war. There will be a reducing of the world's taste in attire to the common denominator denomi-nator of beauty. There will be less of the distinctively dis-tinctively national in dress; more of the accepted ac-cepted canons of beauty in line and fabric and color. . Some time we may achieve the world language. Then why shall we not achieve a world dress T The characteristics of the world dress will be a common standard of what is beautiful. The dream of the man or woman of vision is the striking of a universal chord. The sartorial artist, no less- than the sculptor, the painter, the musician, dreams of creations that will awaken response in the son! of the world. The head dresses on this page are national In character. A maid of Flanders might have worn that which adorns the largest head. It is a 'modification of the bewitching Dutch bonnet worn by the lasses of the lowland countries and oat of which they peer coqnettishly at their wooden shoed traitors. But I trust yon will think, as I do, that this is lovelier because unconventional. un-conventional. The dainty folds of lacs are so arranged as to disclose a becoming expanse of hair and a fine sweep of hair line on the brow. A similar modification of the Dutch head dress is that shown on the lower picture. This, with its interlacing folds of brightly colored net nd its spray o flowers woTkcd out in metallic embroidery, is an adaptation what might he called an individualization of the bonnet he-lover he-lover of travellers and familiar to playgoers. Femininely lovely as is the face framed by the third head dress and constructed of prnrl-i is its adornment, it yet sufc'g"'f't the Roman roldier turning a martial f.'a.e upon tlie world, out of a helmet. The martial note i;o oft reproduced repro-duced in dress in this time of the conflict of tuitions tui-tions is clearly Apparent in this. Certain principles of beauty in head dref.u i: i should be understood by all who wish to add to their beauty by thin final cranial adornment. Bear well in mind that one that n dowdy or awkwardly contrived is worso than none. Ear worse, indeed, for the hair suitably arranged U the most glorious of decorations for the hcHil. Has not the poet told you that it in woman's crowning glory? It must be, suitable to the gown. 1 have seen a diamond tiara worn villi a badly cut gown. The impression made was that of a crashing discord dis-cord in music. It even stirred the humor of some who saw. To oik- wnsilivo to errors in attire it. was painful. Vet I have r.ern a ban. I of brilliant red ribbon worn about the shinir.g hair of a school girl in a simple muslin, di e :s n;ic'. red sash, that was in perfect t.c.le and radiantly becoming. (i-rierally f;pea':ing, a head dress of jewels should be kept, a i Car as possible from n worn face and fader) eyes. At least, a ma.;s of hair (.honld separate the in. 1 rl -J3?i? Ji V3-J fen By&dy Duff-jovdon LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Loale of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world. writes each 4 week the fashion article for this ncynpmper, presenting all that it newest and best in styles for wefl-dresaed women. Lady Duff-Gordons Paris ettabliiKment brings her mto clcr (ouch with that .centre of fashion. Lady Du5-Gordon's American eitablithmenb are at Not. 3 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York, aad No. 1400 Lake Shore Drive, Chiccrjo. r-M""" " 1 1 ' nilimailii 1 1 " a-"-- 4 . 1 - i . A , ' f .. - ,.rA r J -1- t I I ' .-- ' ..-W-rW -.'- s- 1 " s ; . .".-."': - v i V , ... -"' J J 1 CuO ' ( ' C7 - ' (BySodyDuff-ovdon rU. ..V; s . T ADY DUFF-GORDON. t?i ftmoui "Loc3e" of London, 1 - . J and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each v x t , . week the fashion article for rhia newspaper, presenting all - ' .... ' ' ' .. . . , . , that is newest and best in s:y':e for wefl-dresaed women. . N ' , Lady Duff -Gordon's Paris ettabliiKment brings her mto cka - ' : . . . touch with that centre of fashion, ss-ws s ' J Lady Du5-Gordon's American eitablishmenb are at Not. 3 , .:. ;: - - . !. ,nd 39 West Fifty-seventh street. New York, aad No. 1400 Lai v 1 .v v v . - - , - t Shore Drive, Chictrjo. f - vx - I - l , - - - - . . .. i-nA r "b vV v v l- -w .v v - . - : .--y;;' - s s .1. v x- - . . . I " .jS ".f ;'".ri : N ; ' , . -j ,r ; s - - v - - - . y ' ,:, 'i ' - ? vyN - v - - "J . i. ' l . ,rj v , - i, v v::.. :. . ' . ; v . .-. c' t ' ' !)', - 7? . . . - ,- A n D-.-r ... . j - ------ -I - --"--'. ',' ' , .. 1 1 ' There I In Thi Mode Ketembttnc to th -. - ,. "Helmet cf a Komin Soldier - y' . . An Adaptation t of the - - ' " Bonnet. -. . ' V- , ' I1V - Worn by ' '.'., .'' - Maids ' ' t cfFlacdeT T - " ... , . ' "; K By LADY DUFF-GORDON S ' v . .. I f WASS infltieace in dress manifest itself v : 's- -,7 w strikingly in the head dresaes that we, j , . '-; ' vTn will see at the theatre, the opera and ; '' ; ' ' : -..r , (n-. et dinners and balls this T7inter. - ' j ! , ' ' , : s Glance at the impressive assemblage of them f . ;t . . . ,.-. . ; , cnthispage. Into the aasemblage has crept the ', ' - ,, f . ', ; cote of the brotherhood of the nations. Dress, ' ' v. ' i . ' - , . - vv t::', withont donbt, will become more cosmopolitan ' . ":: "v"' '" ? S? rVTy after the war. There will be a reducing of the i1..-.',. 1 world's taste in attire to the common denomi- . . ; - - , . '..jr' J cator of beauty. There will be less of the dis- I , ;. ' - ' . tinctively national in dress; more of the ac- '. ' , v J v'V'T cepted canons of beanty in line and fabric and ' f color. . Some time we may achieve the world j '- -1 f. 3 lansnage. Then why shall we not achieve a f ' I world dress T The characteristics of the world f i; j dress will be-a common standard of what is j ' ! " w beantifaL .' i , J? The dream of the man or woman of vision is s' ---.. ,r the striking of a nnivereal chord. The sartorial j :j -- 'K'JfJ' artist, no leas than the scniptor, the painter, the f J ' ;S musician, dreams of creations that will awaken ' a response in the soul of the world. ' The head dresses on this page are national in i ' l character. A maid of Flanflrs mif;ht have , ' should be understood ; '.A, worn that which adorns the largest head. It is V. by all who wish to add , . $f a 'modification of the bewitching Dutch bonnet to their beanty by thin , . . -' - t5 worn by the lasses of the lowland eonntriea and " final cranial adorn- " ' .. " T-, out of which they peer coqii"ttishly at their mcnt. -x : 'J wooden shoed suitors. But I trust you will Dear well in mind that one thnt h dowdy or ' v ' '" s-JT think, as I do, that this is lovelier because un. twkwardly contrivfd is worse than none. Far . ' -w , r. v v -f conventional. The dainty folds of lacj are so worse, indeed, for the hair suitably arranged i t .v V- r".:- ."; -l,:!-! arranged as to disclose a becoming expanse of the most glorious of decorations for the hcml. ' , v - ' ,! : : hair and a fine sweep of hair line on the brow. Him not the poet, told you that it if i woman's .i! - ., ; . . A similar modification of the Dutch head crowning glory t ; . . V V Th's W dress is that shown on the lower picture. This, It must bo suitable to th gown. I have seen . , ,'"? s ' j with its Interlacing folds of brightly colored net a diamond tiara worn with a badly cut gown. ' ; ..;' : r . . and its spray of flowers worked out in metallic The impression made was that of a nrnnhing din- . v Si'htof embroidery, is an adaptation what might be cord in music. It i-vti ntirred the humor of Fllrtdon called an individualization of the bonnet be- nome who k;iw. To rmr- m-nsilivo to errors in -; , Between loved of travellers and familiar to playgoers. (itt.ire it. was painful. Yet I have Kern a ban. I ' ' Femininely lovely as ia the face framed by of brilliant red ribbon worn about the r.liinir.-T . , and Bo the third head dress and constructed of penrl-i hair of a school girl in a simple miisliu dre-!;i n;iti of tlie as is its adornment, it yet sutrc'sti the Jf.oinan red sa'ib, that was in perfect t.c.le and radiantly ' , . ..... ' y ., , i i v DlkeUndi roldier turning a martial f.'a.e upon tlie v.-orld, rirromirrg. out of a helmet. The martial note f;o oft repro- (I'-nr-rally (;peal:ing, a bear dress (f ji-wcli flucerl in dress in this time of the conflict of mi- should be kept, a i Car ns po'.r.ihlc from a worn . lions is clearly apparent, in this. fare and faded eyes. At lra-;t. a ma.;s of hair Certain principles of beauty in head dref.u should acparatc tliem. There I In Thi Mode Reetnblnc to the. Helmet cf Roman Soldie Thisj W Xnplred by the Sight of a Flirtation Between Girl and a Boy of tlie DlkeUndi -cp; riulit, IM7. by llirs Liir tuinpan. 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