OCR Text |
Show ' p m fe." Costly Triumphs in Tafllese i! LEPIIB Trl RAPSND OONS Ermine and Other Luxurioi; f ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "LucHeof London, and Klxk, IFfo Clkp ' foremost creator of fashions in die world, writes each week the . ttBsSi W T$ vDvi J- WW - A fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all .that is newest , J3jg&. : v . jmM$ typK . T i ' 'I and best in stylcsfbr well-dressed women. W . JwWYSuK . KxV T O "J ifcS'll . r Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close ilP jVMXs Dy JUclUy ifg , J . touch with that centre of fashion. . fK . jSSmmJ T"V --I Lady Duff-Gofdon's American establishment at Nos. 37 and. . JjSBt? .". . -pT,K ' Dlllt"1 fM 39WC5,By Udy TuFF-GORDON ("Ladle") ' ' . 4iH flA Jkm B hp HE woman who is nble to have a second fur coat, specially dedicated- to evening wear, Is Hp to be specially congratulated and Hf will be surely envied. B For such wraps arc at their regal B loveliest this season, and she "frill B have the chance of making a triumphal entry into theatre or B opera house in, for example, a coat of tailless ermine, where the spot- Hj less whte skins' are so manipulated B as to' curve around the figure and follow the sweeping width of shoulders and sleeves and the Hf closely enwrapped, upward drawn BU slenderness 'beneath. Not one touch Rt of trimming or color is permitted to break into this outer marvel of modelling and whiteness, but when the coat Is flung open It is shown to be "all glorious within," the lining Bi being of gold colored satin, shot and B brocaded with shimmering silver, Bi " Another new creation and triumph B in tailless ermine, where again the B ekinr. form encircling curves instead B of downward lines, is tiraped high B up on the left hip and there caught B into a bow ornament formed of the f,lr- In this case; however, a single B fox skin of pale ajnber shading is. B 'laid flatly above the shoulders so B ' that its whole width. is shown. The B contrast of color being further and B most fascinatingly completed by a B lining of softest Saxe blue brocaded B chnrmeuse. B Cream caracul, trimmed with B white skunk, is also available and B attractive for .those who prefer B and can afford such schemes of B smartness and spotlessness, which arc, of course, apt to prove costly in wear as well as in initial outlay. B 1 have recently seen a most won- B derful thing of beauty. A. w.rnp of B pure white Russian ermine, "whoso B draperies are so cleverly manipu- B lated as to form a deep point lit the bade' and then to be drawn up in front into the close clasp of a couple Bj of fittle ermine heads. and two pairs B of diminutive paws, these further B serving to finish off the great collar B of white 'fox fur, which there ends B its protective and decorative career. B And following all 'the upward B sweeps of the graceful wraps is a B very deep fringe of white chenille. B Two tassels to match are affixed to B 1 the wide arm-openings at cither side, B for actual sleeves there are none, B this being one of the many models B which Unto simplify the task of ad-Justment, ad-Justment, and removal, in the most B completely satisfactory fashion. B And last, but not least, tho lining B is a wonderful- brocade, whose soft B bVii's and greens merge into a shim- B mcr of silver. B Imagine, too,- another coat whose B whole upper 'part is of the Bolivian B chinchilla, whose clear gray coloring B is so coveted and so costly. The B down-turned collar can "be upturned B closely and cozily when so desired, B and the fronts, coo, fastened far B over the left side, 'the same B line being- then taken up by B tailless ermine beneath an en- B circling and uniting band 'of oxidized B silver lace ivhlch curves low down'on B the back and over the sleeves and so B. across the front. And as gold, and B silver, too, are brought -together in B ' lie lining, you do not need to be B told that the effect of this wrap is B positively regal. B Other ermine coats make eventual B nr,3 decorative use of the, at first, B Vanished tails -as a bordering for the' B fronts, and the sleeves, while the B much. . favored fox skin will finish B thent oft at the neck. B And, Tndccd, some such furry finish B is a necessy alike of fashion and B comfort wherever the fabric and the B evening coat may be, fox skins, B white, black, "blue," red or pale yel- B low being almost invariably chosen B for the purpose. In such cases, the B complete skin with head and pawa B and brush will be laid out llatly B about the shoulders, bwt only fas- B tened down in the centre, so that it fl may be adjusted in several different B When, however, as so often' hap- pens, the whole wrap is provided B with a bordering of fox, all such B additions are banished, and only an unbroken aoftnesn of fur 1b used. Natural blue fox looks lovely when B . it thus gives a finish to a gracefully B shaped wrap of white and black vel- veil -brocade, the lining being of moonlight blue and silver, while I should hnrdly thfnk that white fox will, all through the season, be put to more effoctivo use than as a great collar, deep cuffs and a bordering band on a wonderful black coat, on whose upper part wave-like lines of light arc formed by jet and crystal beads and bugles. Then as a broad bordering for the- closely draped folds beneath black chnrmeuse. There Is, hand-painted and hand broldcred, In silvery white, a deBlgn of nymphs &and 'satyrs, whose inspiration in-spiration came froln an old Etruscan frieze! Truly a startling change this procession of figures from the usual scrollB and flowers, but one which is likely to become more familiar fa-miliar before the season is over in pp 0Pwe i0wiM MS Charming in Its Simplicity and Grace A New "Lucile" Creation Fittingly Christened the "Birth of Venus." view of the fact Jthat the old-time Grecian graces of drapery are being revived in our modern dres3. And, by tho way, there, is still another an-other very piquant detail of this coat which must by no means be omitted from my chronicling or your copying. To wit, filmy frills of black tulle, which fall lightly over the snowy whiteness of the fur collar col-lar arid cuffs. I must also tell you that one of the newest evening cloaks is provided pro-vided with only one arrahole, and that at the right side, the other arm being just carried In and cozily covered cov-ered by a Bling-shaped fulness of the moonlight-blue velvet, whose trimming with sable and silver would alone make It 'distinctive and decorative. And T am not sure that there is not a certain method in thiB apparent madness, for only one hand Is, of course, required to catch up the trained skirt. I shall send you a picture of one of these sleeveless wraps in another fortnight or so. Just present. I am interested in two brocade eve-. eve-. ning wraps which tvIII be included in the trousseau of a January bride. I am sending you pictures of them. The one of sumptuous white and green brocaded velvet ha3 the new long sleeve3. They ire very wide at tho upper part, jhen slope In shnrply at the wrist. A most sensible sen-sible 'fashion this Is, for the close- l fitting sleeve Is much warmer than the wide ono. , The lines of this coat are straight; it is very full from the shoulders, but I have not Introduced any drapery dra-pery at all. The second coat is a marvellous gold and 'black brocade, trimmed with rabbit ( sable. The tassels, which are a new thought for evening coats, are of gold cord. There Is no garment in a woman's wardrobe which may b6 so gorgeoUB as her evening wrap: it may be as colorful as a peacbek's plumage, or of one solid color, heavily trimmed with fur It may be, also, of fur, such as I have already described. It 1s all a matter of choice and pocketbook. And, any way, it Is something ne,w ad different, as is also a rather longer coat, which at the back forms two deep points between which the train of the skirt can pursue an un- Interrupted and, therefore, all the more graceful, career. Black velvet, outwardly trimmed with that very decoratlvely marke'd fur natural fitch and Invariably lined with shell pink crepe do chine, can also be noted as being both practical and effective, while if anything any-thing rather more startling is wanted it is provided by a three-quarter , wrap of geranium pink velvet, whose . brilliance is becomingly softened near the face by a great black fox skin, a bordering of' the fur also finishing off the wide sleeves and finally figuring with splendid effect as an edging for the flounce of gold-meshed gold-meshed lace which is Introduced midway on the .wrap-over shape, but which ends its shining career at either end, so the fronts may bare the unbroken lines, which are becoming be-coming to all figures. As an after thought I a'm sending you a photograph of an exquisite little gown which I call the Birth of Venue. It is a misty pink chiffon, sheer and lovely, draped gracefully so as to give long, straight lines. The shades of the chiffon are Just the shades in the pearls as the light falls on them. There Is a simplicity about this costume which is very appealing. Gowns of the broad tall and also of the new fur cloth are growing in favor. fa-vor. The new treatment of fur skins which results in their pliability makes even a draped gown well within the bounds of possibility! Of course, these supple -skins do not wear as well as the old-fashioned skins, but nowadays nowa-days we do not buy clothes for their wearing possibilities. We do not hand down our gowns or furs as the previous generations did. Perhaps the hardest blow w?e have struck at economy nn.s been the discarding dis-carding of the all-Tjlack evening gown. In New York this 5ervlfeiibl8 costume is no longer the standby of the smart woman. But in Paris the pendulum hns swung back, and the black gown is creeping back into favor. -This is a perfectly natural development. When the riot of color overthrew all our dress standards hist Winter, it was natural that black would bede- jposed. We In Paris hav beenrcil of our color madness, and I arl hat you in your country will bfrTO) of yours before the Winter io Therefore I advise you to fc1 least one all-black gown Jn Bn wardrobe preferably one of th caded fabrics. If your pockeMr' permits, be sure to get a bro K ( chiffon cloth, but thete nre n t other figured materials which are , so expensive. If you want black , vet for day wear, you will find i IC lovely figured varieties, nil In bl which can be very effective. A' noon gowns, by the way, mini fl mads with longer skirts than for p ly. but a train is not necessary, j in evening gowns. v P |