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Show Ihrgeous Evening Coats the Crowning Sensa- vSp fzon of the Coming Season's Startling Modes T ADY DUFF-GORDON,the famous "Lucile" of London, and fore- W I most creator of fashions in -the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in f styles for well-dressed women. CT- Lady Duff-Gordon's Pans establishment brings her inlo close touch ri(M) with that centre of fashion. vfOv- Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 . rTs West Fifty-seventh street, New York. TxvXfC By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile"). UlBP!jHF1ERr evening wrap can be to a 'B 5 I woman her crowning joy or her flB'H 1 greatest disappointment. It ' jHpiSJ can. give to her the supreme jHtmscIousness that every detail of her feetume is perfect or it can make her He that she is all at sixes and sevens. KCkrae are the days when a woman's gKvening coat was merely a covering for Hier fragile gown, a shell In which nes-IHtted nes-IHtted some delightful creation of the fcodlste's art To-day the evening wrap i i r is as important as the coBtume under- 11 neath. Therefore to be the crowning g s glory of the ultra modern -costume- the W P evening wrap In these extravagant days 1 can no longer be demure. 1 W We no longer resemble the gentle wren, nor yet the sparrow with their y-Yi dull, sombre coats. No. To-day it is as C Vy the gorgeous peacock, or perhaps the VOs; decorative scarlet tanager. that we dls- y-f) play ourselves at nightfall. "Gay as (rOiWXS peacocks," "Vain, as peacocks," these are v&sV-PI J I Front View of "Peacock" Wrap of Rose-Brocade, Oriental JN Embroidery and Real Lace. 9lAJ 3g ' ' ''' ' fllyilSlll The Coat-of-ihe-Rose. Quaint Wrap of Rose and Silver Taffeta. The "Goldeh Pheasant" Wrap ofli H ' Gold and Red Brocade. g tpT -'A.-', H '-" the expressions that man often uses when given to censuring our sumptuous sump-tuous garments. But- speaking of peacocks, does man and the world at large ever stop to think that the peacock with his superb clothes, his colossal vanity, is masculine. Verily is woman maligned. ma-ligned. The example of bedecking ourselves is set us by the male birds of the air. Why, therefore, should the male of our species be forever carping at us7 Recently I read a bit. of verse anent this peacock myth, that I quote before going on to tell you more abqut some lovely peacock wraps recently exhibited In Paris: "Feminine vanity? Oh. ye gods. Hark to these men! Vanity's wide as the world ie wide. Look at the peacock in his pride; Is It a hen?" Q There is nothing too fragile, nothing too sumptuous for woman to have made into her evening wrap. Fabrics as fragile as chiffon or as elaborate as silver bocade, lacos of a rare and unusual design, all tbeso aro dftight-fully dftight-fully transformed into the most Beductive of evening coats. There are times when I feel that some sublimated name should be created for such wraps as I have just been designing. Of a verity the English language is too restricted. re-stricted. Thore Is too little color in it to properly describe them. Can you imagine anything more lovely than a coat of real chanlilly lined with rose chiffon. I recently created such a one for a bride, and she whispered to me just after her return from the honeymoon that her coat had meant as much to her as her husband's embraces. T am sending you this week some coats for evening that should inspire you with the same happiness with which the chiffon wrap Inspired In-spired the hnppy little bride. I have selected three that T call Peacock wraps. Is this not a charming 'nnd a truthful name for them. Bui even here I make distinctions. I like to think that a wonderful golden pheasant Inspired In-spired the one bearing its name. There is a l'are simplicity of design In this coat. It wraps the wearer lovingly in its folds, but does not hide or detract from the grace of her figure,. It is very long and narrow in the back, and is draped toward the front. The very short kimono sleeves edged with golden maline and the neck ruche of the maline are new and odd touches that mark this as of the very latest mode. Then I have selected for you also two views of one of these Peacock coats, a back and front view, that will convey to you clearly the suraptuousness of this model. The coat is a wonderful rose brocade, draped over hips so as to give a novel pannier effect. The cape, which forms the sleeves, is made of a rare and old point venise flounce that the wearer had received from her grandmother. The shaped piece around the neck Js an elaborate bit of Oriental embroidery, fruit of a long visit in the Orient. The design of this, while very different from that of the Golden Pheasant, is Just as graceful and also enhances rather than detracts from the grace of the woarej. Very different, although perhaps not so sumptuous In outline, is the short wrap that I have named the "Coat-of-the-RoBe." This is one of the hip wrapB or coats that are so very ohic this season in Paris. It has the quaint atmosphere that seems so necessary at this birne. It is created in a flowered moire changeable change-able taffeta in rose and gray, but rose predominates, pre-dominates, and the wearer usually has at her walBt a glorious rose set in foliage, and from this rose and the color came the name, "Coafc of-the-Rose." There Is much old gold lace used as decoration. The sleeves are short, and while ! mPI this is an evening wrap, it might ffl also be used as an adjunct to a s! dinner costume. ' of Wf . |