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Show I Cbe Summer fashions of pans csBsc 1 JBL.ARIS April 30. In looking jsin around art assemblage of .martly cowned Parisian wo-rcen wo-rcen at the RItz, In the Bols, MM the opera or theater one ob-uV ob-uV . that fisurca have cuddcnly from artistic and well put up futfttis" (If 0,10 may usc such a iKflellon of terms) to trim, curv-Mn curv-Mn which well define the bust and 11710 the waist Us Ions lost petite XPIona In ot,,cr words- wo aro KESSlr veering round to tight lacing: F'ltfcf the common sense which the W I' today arc credltcd w,tn nos" But who could sacrifice fa6h-a'nunion fa6h-a'nunion sense, particularly when , are as alluringly becoming aa Wt,t:t today Still It is rather hard I WLxt onc'3 figure so radically with ? ILrtTleofone'B gown, lo. revival of Victorian and direc-:lR"Mttimes direc-:lR"Mttimes is directly responsible Jf Lffjne of the waist invisible and Jr j,e blouse effects. La Mode is Jp u capricious in her whims as the Sof woman the poets sing about Kytjln, coy and hard to plea6e." It Il!t often that even this imperious Br.,,,0 divided in her mind as she is ikt fftfWt tetwcen thc fascinations of ly jf 39 modes and the directoire cos-'Ubma cos-'Ubma There is no mistaking frocks m on these widely divergent lines. Iwldlrtctolrc costume, with its long, nL fettinc coat and close sleeves, is ' Stu 'rom e u"' atncred Ijlji ind much trimmed manche of fljo i Quaker is from a ballet (?!. 7et btlh arc clually correct i a&u authoritative point of view in KfrJd of fashion. I hardly think leiiraples of the directoire period ijCiisffa this summer, as wo need a Bet wenable style for crepe do chine, dtfljstii til thc gauzellke, shlmmery iKtfti that will be worn for the next e$sUw. In thin cloths and rnore )ptj2yTen goods this style is at its jEt; KMtquentiy flufflness will revel nEsjlhe heated term at least, vljit ertn when the directoire style Is ApBib; out of the question the full yflfctt Is by no means a necessity. A UHt? a uri, I am inclined to think, more wBfedre corsage is that which is KipdCTUSly to one side and adorned sjStU double row of fancy buttons, a (JKtl shaded ribbons or some fasten -HE' id ornamental nature. For voile jdKit3ta. towns two stole ends are in-yUrtxti in-yUrtxti on the waist crossed in front IE: i xt3l of chiffon or lace and fln-IHfellthtwo fln-IHfellthtwo enameled buttons just uKrette girdle. yMtestr It always thc season for a jBdKt riot of frills and flounces, and Hitynrivill bono exception to thc jBseil rale. There are any number of H&j skirts ruffled almost to thc wfibi M the newest Jupe has a flat uBtf in front and wider gathered WttliU the sides. As to the width of iround the bottom, nothing In THfeHct Eurprlees one now, and it is '"r unusual for the summer skirt UBetunre nineyards at the hem. al-fMti al-fMti the cunning- of their creators MiAa thim appear considerably less, Xj-tei'.e and triple skirts are finding jlHJw.Tilh those who are tired of gath-KlM10. gath-KlM10. and most exclusive models JjjSpa'e with tucks the whole length jpfetklrt, graduating from a quarter MrOKKrOKHHKHfI of a yard to an Inch In depth. The waist and sleeves are alike tucked, and the offect It; simple and stunning, although it requires an artist's hand to bring about the result. Everywhere there aro ruchings made of silk, chiffon, velvet ribbon or net arranged on gowns from hem to hips and from neck to bust. These ruchings take a lot of material and are a troublesome trimming to make, but repay the expense and labor in pretty effects. Voiles in thin varieties will create some of the daintiest summer costumes, cos-tumes, and the graceful possibilities and lack of expense make a gown of this material a charming addition to one's wardrobe. A decided novelty Is the combination of faced cloth with voile applied as a trimming In bands rind straps dotted with small buttons. The usual lining for a gown of this fabric is silk of the same color, but some very smart models have a contrasting con-trasting shade under them. Most successful suc-cessful is mauve voile lined with pale blue, sapphire blue lined with white and a clear pink over pale yellow. A Pompadour dress seen thc other afternoon at r studio tea took my fancy fan-cy wonderfully. The roses were scattered scat-tered over a gray ground, and the drcs3 was entirely framed with a lettuce green ruche. The corsage, cut out at thc neck over line coffee colored lace, was draped with a band of thc same ruching fastened with a flat bow in the back. A fall of lace down the front of the bodice was held in place by several black velvet bows having small strass buckles in the center. The 6leeves to the elbows were composed entirely of rows of lace en forme looped up with black velvet bows. The hat of soft green straw was trimmed with a garland gar-land of rosebuds and veiled with black chantllly draped up toward the back with tiny strass buckles. Lingerie hats are among the smart millinery efforts, and when the cha-peau, cha-peau, gown trimming and parasol are of "brodlerle Anglaise" the acme of chic is reached. Some really costly laces arc used this season for theBe becoming be-coming hats, and the variety which is considered elegant Just now here In Paris Is known as the point de nelge. It has a groundwork of brussel3 net, on which appears a design of empire wreaths dotted with tiny white balls, which has given the lace its name. It is not a cheap dcntelle, but nowadays wo look with disfavor upon anything buckles. Nearly all of us own somo cherished relic of the kind belonging to our grandmother, and now is the time to produco It for the adornment of our latest confections. No matter how ornate or-nate it may be, it will be in keeping with the present demands, as the buckles buc-kles of the moment aro larger and richer rich-er than ever before- Rlbbons as trimmings are becoming more and more de rJgueur, and the flowered gauze ones set with fagot stitching are a beautiful addition to a dainty frock, while the Louis or Pompadour Pom-padour bows are to be seen on almost everything in the sartorial line, several tones of tho same shade often being applied in a lattice effect on waist or skirt. For evening toilets nothing is ' ' PARISIAN JUNE 0 WNs". not expensive. It ia a most effective design and promises to rival in popularity popu-larity the "punched" lnces so much in vogue. This lace Js dyed to match the costume with which It Is worn and is even more attractive as a dress trimming trim-ming than as a hat covering. Another charming revival of fashion is thc sash, and all the summer gowns of Importance will boast a pretty sash or girdle of silk or ribbon. A number of Parisian couturleres are introducing draped liberty sashca on their new gowns and arranging them with a deep point in front and knotted two or three times in the back. These sashes suggest sug-gest a delightful excuse for indulging lovelier than gold or silver gauze ribbon rib-bon on which are embroidered flower designs in delicate tones. These ribbons remind me of some exquisite ex-quisite toilets turned out for reception and dancing occasions. An attractive little confection was of white chenille spnttM 'ii ln cfvlc. In which a bolero effect was achieved by nieuna of white velvet ribbon bands and lace insertion. in-sertion. Applique water llllcc and their foliage in high relief formed the decoration deco-ration of thc decolletage. White sole de chine with lines of roses embroidered on the skirt from hem to knee and the corsage composed of a pretty arrangement of draped lacp caught with paste buckles and a cein-ture cein-ture of mousscllnc velours comprise another happy evening creation. Mine. Loubct wore at a recent reception a magnificent toilet of cream chiffon gauze over rich sulphur colored llk. The bodice was trimmod with spider veb lace medallions, from which fell a soft white fringe. Effective touches of gold were introduced into the costume, and the ensemble proved "a symphony In gold and white. Before leaving tho subject of evening toilets let me tell you about a new material ma-terial printed brussels net brought out lately for hall frocks. This net comes In all the delicate nuances of tho i season and is covered with artistic designs de-signs having thc effect of hand painting. paint-ing. A dreso of this not ln Dresden pattern would be lovely for a girl's garden gar-den party costume if worn with a large white picture hat Inset with lace and adorned with one long white ostrich feather. The summer shoe will match the costume cos-tume in color if not In actual material To be worn with thc usual whito gown of mull or lawn the light champagne shade is smartest. These shoes are trimmed with puffs of chiffon or embroidered em-broidered In the tones of the costume. Distinctly novel are tho tongueles3 shoes of perforated leather laced with beautiful ribbons terminating in large bows near- the toe. With the hose so much in evidence the daintiest designs will be worn, and the very latest notion no-tion Is to embroider the silk stocking with one's monogram on thc left ankle. Model Froclca. A new model frock shovn is in a lovely dull shade of pistachio green cloth. The skirt 1b full and looks as if it were in two pieces buttoned together, the effect being produced by a narrow green silk braid sewed on ln a castellated castel-lated design around tho knees and each point accentuated by a green velvet covered button. Tho coat bodice is full and falls ln loose plaits overhanging the waist belt of green suede, and it has the quaintest deep shoulder cape, the ends of which" come down to the waist and cross over, fastening with a button. Both the cuffs to the full sleeves of the coat shaped turn back collar and revers are cut ln tabs, and thero is a little white cloth vest fastening with a double row of tiny round silver buttons that gives a cachet to this attractive costume, which is quite original in conception. Pin dotted, hair line Biclliennes are making a number of useful but smart summer frocks, and one model with a double tucked skirt gathered round tho hips haB a belt and vest to thc Eton fronted coat of green shot taffeta, taffe-ta, while the full sleeves are plaited into a cuff of the material, a full cuff of repousse lace, and, last of all, a wrist cuff composed of two tucks overlapping each other. Some gold crochet buttons and ornaments lend their all Important aid to the successful completion of this tolleL Ways of Ualnpr Pean de Cycrno. This pretty fabric Is used for the yokes and cuffs of many of the new-bodices new-bodices embroidered with loose stitches of chenille. The same fabric is applied as an applique round the shoulders, following fol-lowing the line where the low bodice would end. |
