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Show :! f ! Early Summer Fashions Paris I f i g'5 " P ARIS April 16. The enjoyment Sunday night of "Paradise and the Perl." that delightful fragment of Moore's "Italia Rookh" set to muBlc by Schu- i ,n was partially lost owing to the ' .11 -ifcV of the Nouveau theator. In : "2!rh It'wa-i produced. Paris has no 1 ZtZr mu8lc hall like the St. James's London. Carnegie In New lork and ' tfie' Chicago Auditorium, and for lack 1 better place her large concerts are ' Slid In one of the many theaters. This i 1,5s of things has been In existence lone that It Is now taken us a matter S? course. Schumann's work lost in-.Mlty in-.Mlty from Its environment, the set- i S bdns to" ma11 for the frame' IrJ .Vlr words, the muolc overpowered : S! building, md all the efforts of the Me conductor, M. Chavlllard, could not imoroTB matters. Granting that the music was heard at a disadvantage, it ' nevertheless lacks the color and plctur-' plctur-' JSJueneiw which characterise Moore's Tone feels Inclined to cavil with ar-; ar-; lUtlc efforts the natural beauty of the ' ,jis just now will satisfy the most u-KioiL This lovely avenue is frn--nint with the odor of flowers and f beautified with specimens of the etcr-feminine etcr-feminine gowned In all the pornps I tad -anitlos of charming spring modes, f Though fashion's creations are noth-Kliac noth-Kliac llko zs exquisite as nature's, they WOJud that ancient dame, Mothor Earth. mji pretty lively race. Certainly this fj'MJtfon'fl clothes are deoidedly alluring. CiKColors and fabrics are so fine and va-irlid va-irlid that we have begun to look upon the minufaoturer as a species of magi- dm who can make any weave he ' pleiM- To meet the special need of ; the "fullness of things" he is produc- ins sillcB and lighter weight materials i which heretofore have been rather nar-; nar-; row almost twice their width. Perfectly charming In the wide fab-, fab-, n'es Is the new silk klnu, which pos-? pos-? Mfses the uubstance of pongee and the )i loftness of crapo de chine. It is to be r found In all the fashionable shades. I Among the multiplicity of voIIob in ov- fry weight and color there is a. tar- tan plsid which is really newer than ; inrthlng yet produced in this material. The plaid Is a very small green and blue check representing the only com-1 com-1 ;b!n4tion of the kind so fur attempted. J The fact that this new voile is not '. cheap obviates for the summer nt least i uir chance of its being too much worn j to be desirable. I have Been .1 stunning ; lom of this material made with a ! three tiered skirt and trimmed with ; little kilted frills of blue taffeta, the i bodice becomingly arranged with trlm-l trlm-l ralngs of the kilting. Many of the plaid i and striped frocks are made up over a fllk lining of contrasting shades which hn well handled give an effect at owe elusive and charming-. ! i The voile gowns are trimmed with ; the narrow braid, the cuffs and waist- joats often hidden under lines straight j and waved of three different colors in 1 Lerculcs braid. For instance, a chant - jasne frock has a mingling of this : irlmming in black and white, gold and i 'jle blue- repeated on its cuffs, gllet find little Mat turnover collar. A com-g com-g 'iium nf icn.on and pale green is i - r ' r 'rrr -nr w v w seen, but it is rather more striking than beautiful. Some exquisite gowns whose destination is America have juHt been completed bj' a celebrated couturlcre. The owner is a wealthj' prospective bride. One of the creations is a puce taffeta, and en passant let mo say that this puce a brownish mauve is one of the favorite tints of the season. The puco taffeta of this gown was delightfully delight-fully soft, anil thc exceptionally lustrous lus-trous effect ovolved by means of a tiny, indistinct check design which covered the material. Tho skirt was plain and full, with little plnlts on the hips which threw into relief the ampler proportions of the lower skirt, which rested on the ground all round. All the decorative art of the gown was displayed on the trimming of the bodice. Hero thc chic m y r v v- ' of the ensemble was accentuated by a novel arrangement of coarse embroidery embroid-ery In shades of old blue, puce and willow wil-low ereen touched with dark purple and gold thread. This combination of colors was embroidered on coarse II lot net and fashioned Into a scalloped pelerine pel-erine vers much cut away at the throat to show an undervest of renaissance lace. Thu sleeves were very full at thc elbow, quite in the gigot style, and cut In one with the shoulder piece, or. rather, this effect was brought about by the trimming, which continued in a band down th outside of the sleeve, forming a light fitting cuff. A draped belt of taffeta fastened with enameled buttons recalled in their tints tho embroidered em-broidered collar Since deep waist belts are, to play such an Important part In thc cummer wardrobe a word to the home fashioner of belts as to the correct way of making mak-ing them may be appreciated. Not long ago the fashionable cointurc consisted of a length of ribbon passed around the waist and tied In a bow at thc left side of the front or in loops and ends In the back. This was In the days when a smal waist made for beauty, but now It Is no longer modish to possess an hourglass waist, provided inu3o iurt. are ot tne same neiynt rut round have sit Interlining of French canvas and are boned at Intervals A lining of thin glace aljk conceals tho canvas and bones. Usually thero are tight bones, one each at the center, back and front, one on either side of thcEo bones and one at each side seam. Sometimes these belts fasten at thc back beneath a trio of small button-centered button-centered cockadJ; rosettes of tho belt material, and sometimes a long slide is the ornament used with a small clasp in front. Wooden button molds covered cov-ered with velvet or embroidered silk are a very effective finish. When tho ceinture narrows at thc sides whalebones whale-bones of varying length arc sewed Into silk casings and neatly adjusted at the back and front of the belt. Over this llrm foundation la then stretched tho bias outer material. Very novel Is the combination of Bulgarian Bul-garian embroidery and leather in the summer belts, A pretty effect is obtained ob-tained by having the binding of thc V1 nf ViTnnb- Irlri t lin Innor Hita e! PARISIAN COSTUMES FOR CHILD, MAID . AND MATRON. the effect be trim and neat. Such a de- rislnns arc wearing: a cravnt of ccriso sirable consummation is wonderfully or brilliant green appearing beneath helped by thc straight fronted corset; an immaculate turnover linen collar, still one has to be particular that the Red shoes have a great vogue. Though fit of the belt be unimpeachable. There decidedly bad form except for out of are two ways of making these belts, town wear, they are very becoming to a smair root. . a reS leather belt and cravat should be worn with these shoes. Another summery accessory is a lece stole having at thc back a shawl point, the endn of which tire adorned with either a large single roso or with little clusters of colored flowers. A qualit arrangement to be worn -with the fichu l a handsome mlnintura hung around the throat on a half Inch vclvot ribbon tied in a few loops almost in front, tho ends looaely caught dorm into the walat belt. The geisha adornment of rosos Trorn in the hair is a fad of the moment, the roacs often forming a sort of filet. The sheer frocks of summer will be fascinatingly lovely, and thin w'hlte toiles and voile, oither printed with flowers or perfectly plain, over a color will be popular. The toiles are of tho new silky make that has little of thc original cotton about it. The favorite fower designs are, bunches oC mauve and violet anemones with deep purple centers and Japanese peach blossoms in three shades of pink harmoniously blended. Dresses of this material are made over a silk foundation, with rows of transparent lace insertions above a deep, gathered flounce, the bodice formed form-ed of alternate bands of lace and gathering. gath-ering. It Is a comfortable -prediction that dark muslins will be fashionable for promenade v.' ear mis summer, ana tne newest models have no trimming on thc skirt except two or throe flounces. A dark blue muslin scattered with a rose pattern has the skirt flouncen headed with a ruchlng of pink taffeta, which also trims the draped llchu around the shoulders. The early summer frock for the Bols promises to be a coarse canvas very like linen with a woven pattern. Coarse llrien embroideries will trim some of these drosses, but the latest idea is to use Swiss embroidery. These frooks will be simple to a degreo, made with high collars, bolero bodice and full, kilted skirts that clear the ground. Now that femininity for better or for worse has arrayed Itself in the styles of 1S30 an authoritative voice is heard proclaiming that the dlrectoire vogues are merely a question of lime, and the time limit seems to be the early fall. Recalling the fashions of that era, It seems a little difficult to reconcile the possibilities of a period which brought the "climax of the clinging" with the present prevailing width. The blending of opposltes Is an art nowadays, and no deubt we will accopt with the greatest ease the return of the large, picturesque rc ors and basqued coats cut away to display vests of brocade Invariably finished fin-ished by a cravat of luce. This changr will be gradual, but what tries the soul Is to find a smart bolt of fashion dropped drop-ped from a clear sky like the lightning effect Paquln has astonished us with In a revival of square" shoulders made even more aggressive with a stiffening built under thc sleeve. This innovation is particularly discouraging dis-couraging Just when we are drooping and dropping our shoulder effects to tho vanishing point. I suppose we shall square up and recover. CATHERINE TALBOT. The Kfl'tr Lace "Walnls. Under the new short boleros are worn vory line specimens of tba batiste shirt with a alenciennes lace and insertions inser-tions or quaint muslin embroideries. They are really charming and show the revival of hand stltchery. Beautiful laces lined with chiffon worn over satin 3lips as well as painted gauzes and delicate chiffons form' admirable ad-mirable afternoon blouses and nre important im-portant factors now in the wardrobe on nccount of tho afternoon bridge parties. |