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Show should occupy on the waist-lining. While it involves a little more trouble, it is rather more accurate, particularly for the dressmaker without great experience. ex-perience. Even an experienced dressmaker dress-maker will prefcr to be extra cautious when she first attempts a new style that has some novel points of construction. It is a simple matter to cut a girdle, using the provided pattern and odd scraps of cambric lining. Cut this carefully, care-fully, mark the perforations, baste the scams and fit the girdle over the waist-lining, waist-lining, with the waist-line perforations of the girdle directly at the natural waist-line of the figure. Transfer these perforations, and those for the high waist-line, to the fitted waist-lining by pinning through both linings at each set of perforations, then turning over the edge of the girdle and making a continuous line of basting- stitches on the waist-lining, using the folded edge of the girdle as a guide. The girdle has now served its purpose, and may be removed, but kept with the pattern for future use. A well-fitted well-fitted girdle support may be put to several sev-eral practical uses. Drtplngr tlio 8klrt The skirt is now to be draped to the waist-lining, pinning its upper edge to the line indicated for it on the lining. The skirt may be fitted, at the normal waist-line, as closely to the figure as desired, making of the completed gown a princess or Directoire model, as cither one or the other may be more becoming. becom-ing. With waists of the bolero type, the waist portion usually overlaps the top of the skirt, even when the latter is finished with a girdle in either crush or plain strap form. When a waist in regulation waist-length waist-length is adopted with the skirt into a one-piece costume, it should be draped on the lining before the skirt, and the excess material, below the traced high waist-line, cut away. A high-cut skirt, mounted on its supporting girdle, mav be worn as a separate skirt over af-most af-most any regulation-length waist, but such an arrangement will result in several sev-eral unnecessary layers of material about the waist, and is hardly desirable for even a slender figure. The girdle-supported skirt is, however, how-ever, particularly well adapted for wear with an unlined lingerie or silk waist. The necessity for an extra belt or girdle is avoided, and there is no danger of the unsightly separation at the back between be-tween skirt-belt and outside belt. The lingerie waist, being thin, will not appreciably ap-preciably increase the size of the waist. Consider Your Flguro It is by no means a hard-and-fast rule that the pattern's high waist-line must be made the same actual line at the top of every skirt. You may have some deviation of figure which, though slight, has necessitated some alteration-fitting alteration-fitting in the vertical lines of waist and skirt, and it is quite as important that the few horizontal lines shall be individually suitable. The same position posi-tion .of bands and flounces cannot be expected to be equally suitable for a 39-inch and a 43-inch skirt length. Correspondingly, a shorter length from neck to waist-line may require that the high skirt-line be lowered a bit. It is easily understandable that a stout figure may not gracefully wear a very broad girdle. For best effects, the latter's breadth should diminish proportionately propor-tionately with the inches that are added to bust and waist measure. On general principles, one piece of advice to a stout woman is to avoid horizontal lines. Breaking the Waist-tine The skirt's high waist-line may be broken to good effect by bretelle-like straps, that cross the shoulders and extend ex-tend down on the skirt, well over the natural waist-line. They should be braided or otherwise trimmed BATHING-SUIT IN PRINCESS STYLE line. While the curveless line is the newer fashion, it is not invariably the I most becoming, and must be a matter of individual arrangement Whether the skirt be closely fitted or not, the supporting girdle is shaped exactly to the figure-lines and boned at the seams; then the skirt is adjusted to it in accordance ac-cordance with the directions for bringing bring-ing together corresponding perforations. A complete one-piece costume may, however, be made by draping the skirt from the waist-lining and omiting the supporting girdle. In this way any suitable suit-able waist may be united with a skirt into the desired costume, the perforations perfo-rations on the girdle, that arc the guides in draping the skirt correctly, being transferred to corresponding positions on ihc waist-lining. A lining that extends two or three inches below the waist-line should be used, or the regulation staple lining, that extends well down over the hips. Fittlnff tho Llnlif The lining is fitted and boned, and hooks and eyes arc sewed at the center-froiit center-froiit or center-back edges whichever has been decided upon as the place of closing. A lining of this length is boned in the same manner as a full-length princess lining. The bones extend above the waist five or six inches (depending upon the figure), and below the waist- A NEW FRENCH BATHING-GOWN BATHING-GOWN support has its use, though it is not included in the completed garment, the boned waist-lining taking us place. If the waist-line is not marked by perforations perfo-rations on the waist-lining, mark it, at the final fitting, by pinning a length of tape around the waist The skirt pattern has its waist-line indicated by perforations. These were, of course, transferred to the cloth when the skirt was cut, and marked by tailor's tacks before the sections were separated. When the skirt gores arc basted together, these tack-threads will form a continuous line around, corresponding cor-responding to the regulation waist-linc of the skirt. On the girdle pattern an upper row of perforations indicates the high waist-line of the skirt, the girdle extending above this line for a possible outside girdle finish that may be desired de-sired in some instances? I Measure the pattern of the girdle on the waist-lining, with the waist-linc perforations even with the waist-linc of the girdle, and mark on the lining the J position of the upper row of perforations, perfora-tions, Mark with chalk or with pins, and connect into a continuous line by a line of basting-stitches or a strip of tape. Another Method There is another way of ascertaining the correct position these two lines THE HIGH WAISTLINE WAIST-LINE SKIRT THE skirt with high waist-linc requires an under-support at the waist, whether it be fitted closely or allowed to hang loosely, without curving in at the waist- SUMMER RIDING HABIT line only far enough to reach the turn of the hips. If too long, the ends will show as points through the garment. In boning bon-ing a lining of this length, the bone- WHEN THE FISH BITE WELL casing is turned under at the lower end and finished, the same as at the top, with about one-half inch of bone free from the seam, but covered with the end of the bone-covering. A SIMPLE TENNIS COSTUME Gorlnj "Waist and 6klrt When the waist-lining has been fitted and boned and the skirt cut and basted, the time has arrived for them to be fitted to each other, and here the girdle |
