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Show JOEL The Lanvin Sailor Turns Up Abruptly - Georgette Geor-gette Favors a Droop At Back and Front-Feathers Front-Feathers She Must Have On Matinee . Day - Even Small Velvet Turbans I Are Hidden Under Plumage. ITTM FEATHER my lasslo must have jkSj on matinee day however wg slmplo rmd a'ustcro the hcad-Jr hcad-Jr EB gear that accompanies her ordinary or-dinary raiment. For feathers, says . , Fashion; when dress-up occasions are concerned I Never "were so many kinds of feathers; long feathers, short, fluffy tips, bushy bunches of split ostrich, l tumbling1 masses of uncurled ostrich, i delicate fringes of burnt ostrich, y goura, Numidle and their various lml-i lml-i tatlons, coq In dozen varieties, 'the 1 n.evest of which Is pasted coq, soft ' and downy as a bird's breast, peacock, parrot and other plumage effects, all , ready to ornament autumn millinery. A feather-trimmed hat. Is nearly al- ways becoming, particularly if tho hat Itself, Is of velvet. Tho combination of feathers and velvet has no peer and this season velvet hats trimmed wlth'feathcrs are high In the approval of Dame Fashion. Five feather-trimmed feather-trimmed hats aro pictured and each model Is quite different from tho others, oth-ers, yet these are only a handful, compared com-pared to the scores of feathery effects in new millinery for autumn. A feather hat is always more or less formal even in such a sjmple model as the Georgette sailor on which a I single plume Is mounted. One docs not willingly wear a feather hat in. a rainstorm; it Is a fair weather com-yj com-yj panlon, and when handsome feathers adorn one's headgear the price of a taxi must be In one's purse or certainly cer-tainly should be! So tho feather-trimmed feather-trimmed hat expresses formality and , a costume a trlflo more select than j ono would don for running about In 4 . tho pursuit of every-day business. Matinee Hats Big And Iilttlc. No matter how small a matinee hat Is, It must como off in tho theatre. If its wearer does not remove It beforo tho curtain goes up her neighbor behind be-hind will suroly urge her to do so In tho polite though firm stereotyped phrase: "'.T'ould you mind taking off your hat?" AnU no matter how so-cure.ly so-cure.ly anchored with veil and pins that headgear may be, off It must come with good grace or bad, else fate In tho person of a determined usher will ovcrtako Its possessor. So thero is llttlo uso In selecting a small hat for theatro wear, unless ono finds it easier to dispose of a small model on one's lafl or beneath the theatro seat. No matineo hat exploits Its beauties at tho matinee during tho performance perform-ance at least Tho sccno of Its triumph Is In the foyer, before the play when women stand abg'ut waiting for friends; or after tho play when well dressed throngs pour out on tho sidewalk to enter arriving limousines or to dlspcrso to afternoon tea places. The Retrousse Lanvin Sailor. Every hat pictured today Is interesting inter-esting becauso It represents an authoritative au-thoritative stylo upon which Fashion has set her seal of approval for the coming season. Thero aro three largo and three small hats, and from the various models any woman ought to bo able to select her most becoming type. Beginning with tho largo hats, tho vplvct trlcofno must havo first mention, for this shapo Is especially favored by Paris Just now. Lanvin i Tartan Almost Hidden ; ' :;H . . Mmk j gliri"ifc: 7'. j TxitiMiT Over 13 'Top ABrownVelvet 3 ailot3 witb.!2)T3u3"h. brought out, a few weeks ago, a sailor turned straight up at tho front with brim caught to crown so flatly that tho front of tho hat scarcely shaded the faco at all. This retrousse stylo of headgear was pronounced tremendously smart but few women wom-en were able to wear It. So a modi-fled modi-fled stylo was launched and tho plc-turcd plc-turcd shapo reproduces It The brim turns up altqost straight at tho front then narrows downward toward to-ward tho sides and back and thero is enough roll where brim and crown join, to mako a becoming shadow over tho eyes. Tho hat is made of black panne velvet and quantities of black uncurled ostrich aro massed between crown and brim. A few sparse strands of ostrich woxild give a very poor effect; the feathers must bo thickly massed and suggest a largo Indiffercnco to questions of economy for, of courso, such masses of handsomo ostrich ' roprcsent considerable con-siderable expense. The Drooping Georgette Sailor. Another very Interesting hat on today's to-day's page, Is the feather-trimmed Gcorgetto sailor. Nov Georgette rarely poises a plume on one of her sailors, so this model Is rather exceptional ex-ceptional In Interest; but as has been pointed out feathers aro tremendously tremendous-ly tho thing this season and aro used on all types of millinery except sport hats. The Georgette sailor Is of velvet, vel-vet, palest gray velvet, with ribbon trimming In a rich gunmctal gray shade. This ribbon Is carried straight around tho base of tho crown and the ends arc grossed under a small, flat bow of silver ribbon, at the back and then slip through slashes In tho hat to fall In long streamers under tho brim. Tho exquisitely poised plume at tho front Is In a delicate, palo blue shado. Tho chief interest In ovory Gcorgetto sailor Is tho "movement" of tho brim. Georgette brings out several now sailors sail-ors each season and always tho crowns aro very much alike raher large and not very high; but this milliner Is a verltablo wizard In conjuring up new Ideas In brims. As you perceive, tho 1917-1S Georgette sailor han a supple, down-drooping brim, with a more decided de-cided droop at front and back than at the sides. Another point to be observed ob-served is tho position of a new sailor on tho head. -This one, you note, has a largo headslze and fits dewn ovor tho forehead quite to tho "eyebrows, tho brim resting on a low knot of hair at tho back. A sailor that would never, never do for a stout, short-necked woman, for tho wide, drooping brim would appear to rest on tho shonlders from a back view. A good deal more attention Is being paid theso days to tho stout woman's needs In dress-. No conscientious mlPllnor permits her to buy a hat that Is becoming merely to hor face and utterly trying to the general lines of her silhouette. And In her now frocks and coats built according ac-cording to the new sveltllno standard which proportions current styles so that they fall Into distinguished lines on over-largo figures, the stout woman Is quite as attractlvo as hor lean sister often far more so. Somebody has said that with the advent of the sveltllno svelt-llno movement In clothes for stout women, tho thin woman's day Is ovor. and perhaps this may bo so. Who knows? Hats Turned Up At The Back. Tho brown velvot sailor tilted up at tho back has good excuse for assuming as-suming this shape. It is a model from Leontlne and no ono will dispute its dainty charm. Split ostrich arranged in brush or aigrette fashion is arranged ar-ranged in a smart bow across the front and makes a fringe around the brim. The feather trimming is in brown shades ranging from gold to deep bronze, and tho hat is brown velvet; a strikingly artistic headcovcr- ... ;'Knt lng for a brown-eyed, brown hairea r,- woman, youthful enough to wear it ; Brown, by tho by, is not a color for g" middle age. With gray hair it Is very ? trying to tho complexion, making the skin look dull and leathery. Fow : U women with light bluo eyes can wear f brown, unless tho hair is a rich chest- nut or auburn. But ono Is always glad .Tj to seo theso tlpped-up-in-back models YZ como In; they seeiri to lend height to ' flf 2 short women and they are much less E trying to faces Just' past youth than jet: tho drooplng-brlm type of sailor . 'ifo which is plcturesquo rather han smart Turbans Fit The Head Closely. im'i A small, artlstocratlc head Is fash- Ion's Ideal just now; and all tho now , mj' turbans emphasize this Ideal. Tho Ran crown of tho turban fits down to tho eyebrows and tips of the ears, but the hair Is drawn In soft waves over , tho ears, showing below tho hatbrlm. This effect Is evident In the three tur- bans pictured. Exceedingly chic Is ! tho Vlrot turban of black satin, with ' kiS closo visor brim, Just a bit raklshly its; slanted over one oyo. A band of i ie shirred satin, corded at either edge, spin encircles the hat and a very riot of split ostrich tumbles from tho top of j the crown. An enchanting hat this m7 for a pretty young woman who car-&B rles herself with dashing grace. An-Mjjf"E other typo of young woman, the sweet Wlwai and gentlo typo will look her sweetest Iki In the llttlo flower-encircled turban kt shown In another Illustration. This Sic hat Is tall crowned and the very small j brim rolls up at the left side and : down at the right side. The wreath -, of big, palo pink velvet flowers Is T veiled with a cloud of black tulle. Another velvet turban scarcely jt1 shows Its shape, so covered It ! 'Z2a Is with rippling plumes; but this Is tt't one of the new velvet "derby" hats j with bowler brim and tall crown rls- ! te lng straight up. The pale gray ostrich : r tips arc thrust Into a band of velvet ; i. which Is drawn around the base of the crown, and tho tips, are curled, ono Sm over the other at tho top of the hat. 1" jeb |