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Show IBSMHiipi1 vc I Each Hat a Law Unto Itself Flowers and Feathers, I But Mostly Flowers Hats of Dark or Neutral ! Color Brightly Trimmed Seem the Favor ites Textile Hats the Craze. SPHERE Is no'deflnlto shape or I ' m stIo In the millinery of late ft spring and early summer, If i 3 one excepts the enormously tall, ! high-crowned tailored models trim-1 .' med -a lth towering bows of ribbon or X nodding roses which marked tho first socles of the season. Theso have ghen a certain character to the 1916 spring, but as -warmer weather advances ad-vances tho tendency seems to bo to-i to-i ward hats of lower crown and wider i brim stales of more picturesque I j quality In short, which Is quite as lt i should be, for summer is tho time of i times for lovely picture hats' Perhaps the most notable feature In millinery now Is the use of textiles, . J not only In trimmings but for whole ij crowns and brims, and Indeed many of tho new hats are entirely covered with textile fabric which may be any- thing from costly Chinese embroidery f to modest striped linen at twenty-live I- cents the yard It Is the sport hat, ': naturally that takes to Itself linen ' covering, but there are many models for formal and dress wear that show silks, satins and other rich fabrics In ; combination with straw; or used all k by themselves Of tho latter sort Is I a very stunning model by Georgette, i tho brim of peacock blue straw braid ': In narrow, overlapping rows, and the crown of satin In tho same shade with embroideries In various colors ' The top of tho crown Is oblong and tho satin, la sewed to this oblong r y crown with an over and over button-' button-' ' hole "stitch done with bronzo silk floss There are flvo rows of buttonholing around the crown, joining strips of the satin, one row in plum color, anothor In old pink, another In gold, and so on 5 Peacock Blue ti Facrcd Shade. - ; It 1b surprising how much peacock ' ; blue one sees in tho new mllllnory It Is a deop, greenish blue which one ! calls peacock for want of another , name thoro may bo somo special ' French cognomen for It, but peacock f ' Is the shade It most resembles. Low is has e-volvcd a stunning creation of ! ehlrrcd black tulle whose piece do rc-i rc-i slstenco Is a grea; dragon fly wrought with blue and green beids which Is a ' poised over tho front of crown and brim. A frill of tho black tullo flutters flut-ters over tho brim's edge, and anothor an-othor frill stands crisply up from the high crown. For wear with this Imposing Im-posing hat the milliner recommends i ear-rings with pendants of blue and ', : green stones set In pearls. There Is an art in choosing cai -rings to match, tho hat nothing gives a woman a more complete effect of chic than this clever llttlo touch of matching car- rings If there is a cockado of blue ribbon on the hat and eyes and ear-i ear-i rings aro bluo also, tho effect is en trancing. Odetto has a wonderful black tulle model, the tullo draped without shlr- ring oer a low-crowned, wlde-brlm- med picture shapo of leghorn. A tiny frill of tho tullo stands out beyond the brim and 13 caught to It by a nar row band of Jot Bewcd to a band of peacock bluo ribbon. At the brim's ' edge also aro two pink roses with black and peacock bluo loaves. Tullo Sprouts From Tall Crowns. ; - Height Is added to height by ad- 1 ding upstanding pleatings of tullo to 3 tall hat crowns, tho tullo appearing ft to sprout from tho lnsldo of tho hat II In eomo miraculous manner. This of-II of-II feet Is Illustrated In the hat of braided It black straw with a narrow mushroom 111 Drlni o wired black tullo, and a wide Wm Pleated frill of tho tullo rising from Wg? tho crown. Braided straw la excea-I excea-I elvely fashlonablo this season and on I ; a hat of this sort it can be easily I 1 managed, even by a tvro in tho mil- I llnery art. Tho straw is braided sep- arately and then tacked lightly to the Iff hat. A pleco of stout crinoline Is cut B first, and fitted around tho tall crown. Then tho crinoline is pinned out on I I tho tablo and tho straw braldod ovor I it, tho ends bolng folded ovor tho I I edges 6f tho crinoline strip. Tho I A whole strip may then be easily at- I f tached to tho hat frame. Do not try I I to wreatlo -with straw bi aiding unless you havo patience and steady norves I a for tho many lengths of straw, each I t one starting to fray out at lta ends, I ' aro rather troublesome to manago. In I i any event purchaso a "generous quan- Btlty of straw so that you need not do your braiding with short pieces After tho onds of tho braided section havo boon turnod undor on tho wrong sldo and tacked in placo, the raveled and 1 IRKS I ESSE! 9K I frayed bits can bo cut away. Lcghorna Hac Frilled Silk Crowns For wear w 1th dainty frocks at May festivities and Juno commencements and weddings, there aro enchanting hats of leghorn with crowns disguised undor frllllngs of silk From Lewis comes ruch a hat, pictured on todaj's pago. The poke shaped brim Is quaint and Its qualntness Is emphasized by I tho "brldo" of pink ribbon, plcot edged, which passes under tho chin. The crown is mado of pink satin a long strip, run by hand with deep tucks On tho hat tlio tucks are drawn up J Into frills, the gathered satin fitting Itself to the shape of tho crown Two pink roses arranged In natural effect with leaves complete tho trimming Somo oi tho new flowcr-tilmmcd flowcr-tilmmcd hats arc lovely past description. descrip-tion. Tho milliners seem to bo vying with each other In delectable fiower arrangements Sometimes roses nod aloft, several Inches above tho high crown; again they tumblo riotously pver tho brim to mlnglo with tho hair. They may be perched formally on tho edge of the brim, or massed In clusters against tho crown, and thov trail In wreath effect across crown and brim. On a black straw hat by Carller aro no less than twenty fair sized pink roses almost two dozen roses, think of It! And tho hat Is not over large, clthor. They coor tho crown entirely In a mass of pink and groon and mount above tho crown, four of the roses towering on long, leafy stems high above tho hat Ono or two peep over tho edge of tho upturned up-turned brim. A prottlor hat for a Juno day was never concehed! To a low -crowned hat of bluo straw has boon added a wldo brim of blue tullo and tho crown Is encircled by a rose pink ribbon run under a shirring of ip JiPr z -iftil Si ycy i gs.' ; ' o - WaW "Picture "hape i tho tulle. Throe rosea in tcaroso and pink shades are clustered at ono side. Speaking of rose-trlmmod hats, one must not forgot tho "Wattoau models which aro for vory, -ery pretty faces, and preferably for heads with blondo trcssos. Thoro Is no mistake about It golden hair does sot off a flower-trimmed flower-trimmed hat marvclously, and red hair docs 'set off a black hat. Tho Wattoau hat Is vory fiat In .front, tilting down to shade tho oyen, but at tho back It rises to untold heights, shooting up at an angle to show tho mass of puffs which mako tho high Watteau colffuro From tho sides of tho hat narrow ribbons extend buck-ward buck-ward to tic In a bow Just bolow tho knot or puffs of tho halrdresslng, and roseB, forgct-mo-nota, heliotrope or liil8HiilB other old-fashioned flowers aro massed across tho front of tho brim, over her ejea. reatbers Promised Tor Summer Suison. Quito In contrast to the coquottlsh Watteau bonnota aro tho severo, high-crowned high-crowned Dlrectolro bonnots with a bunch of small ostrloh feathers nodding nod-ding ftom tho top of tho tall crown In front. Ono of theso hats, in fino black straw, has a fuwn-colorod 03-trlch 03-trlch plum a In pompon shape 'at tho very top of tho crow u, In front, a rucho of black tullo running around the crow n, two lnchea from tho top. Under tho chin goes a "brldo" of black velvet ribbon. Tho gracoful Georgotto Bailor pic- turcd Is trimmed with a now concolt In ostrich a sort of shell ornament combined with a short, curling feather. feath-er. Anothor foathor Is attached plquantly to tho velvet streamers tho llttlo plume curling over tho shoulder when tho streamers aro pulled forward for-ward as all hat streamors should bo, for hat ribbons hanging down tho back do not accord with tho smart silhouette. silhou-ette. This Goorgetto sailor, In tho gracoful, uncxaggcrited shapo that I OstmcK Add3 ErcvpKs.Bis "to "Qe. H this milliner loves best is of taupo colored mllan with ostrich In fawn color and streamors of Nattier blue. An exceedingly smart hat by Chanel sho-ws a new adaptation of ostrich to tho needs of a hlgh-brlmmed turban. The crown of this hat Is quite lost except from a top view for swath-lngs swath-lngs of ostrich, mount to tho very edgo of tho high, turned-up brim. An ornamental or-namental pin of pinkish pearl Is thrust among the feathery mass at ono sldo, giving a characteristic touch to tho black hat. To Lowls again one turns for an example of tho nowost feather arrangemfnt And who would not turn xo Lowls and turn and turn again for hats and hats and hats, If ono had carto blancho to buy one's heart's deslro of millinery? A now Lowls hat all black as so many of tho smartest hats aro this spring Is of fino crln In Napoleonic shapo with a very wide 'turned back brim held to tho crown by a pleated cock-ado cock-ado of blacK grosgraln ribbon. From sldo to side of tho hat.-travellng quite across the crown go sixteen tiny black ostrich tips, placed close togothcr. At a llttlo dlstanco they might bo tiny, plump birds roosting on that hat and tho effect la chic and unforgettable. Black and silver hats are a special type of this season, for silver has found its way to tho hat after exploiting exploit-ing Itself all winter on tho dance frock. A black and sliver modol by Marcolle Demay Is pictured. Tho graceful shape s of black lace straw, tho brim tilted up at tho back" to show tho hair. Plcot edged sllvor ribbon, rib-bon, tied Into llttlo bows, onclrcles tho base of tho crown and at tho front Is a big rose of sllvor potals and leaves. Streamers of black volvot aro attached to tho brim at tho back and aro caught together bolow tho shoulders with another sllvor rose, Nnv3 Blue and Koses. Because navy blue Is a shado hard to obtain Just now, capricious fashion elects navj bluo as her special favorite. favor-ite. Rather new aro leghorn models trimmed with navy bluo silk and ribbon, rib-bon, and deep pink roses. The bluo Is a bright rather than a dark navy, tho shado that Is almost universally becoming to dark, light and gray-haired gray-haired women. A charming summer hat from Marcello Demay Is of floppy leghorn with crown entlroly coverod with navy bluo taffota. A clustor of flvo pink roses rests on tho back of tho brim toward tho right, weighting tho supplo brim at this point, and from tho under side of tho drooping brim como two navy bluo streamers which aro pulled forward over the shoudcr. An Odotto hat of navy H bluo crln has a down-slanting brim H and a tall crown around which swirls H buff-colored ostrich, and tiny pink H roses ncstlo among tho feathers. From Gcorgptto Is a practical and smart sailor of bluo mllan faced with jH bluo satin. Around tho crown are IH many overlapping bands of narrow . H ribbon In parrot red, buff, black and IH blue. |