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Show I Of Interest to Esdf leaders- j A SEASON OF FINE GOWNS. All the World is Gathering at Paris and Dressmakers Busy. Paris. Fashionable English resorts will be deserted this spring, and fears .tie felt for Henley; for all the world has turned Parisward. and the exposition exposi-tion will hold the center of the earth's stage for the rxt six nionthis. "Exposition sewns" are being- maJe for walking purpn-v's; yet they are not etriotly tailor-made, or walking dresses, but handsome gowns, brilliant and flic U ntly elegant for a reception. recep-tion. And it will be necessary to do one's fight-seeing in a line g'own for the Frrnrh have, with characteristic love for pleasure, erected thousands of little lit-tle eating booths which they dignify by the name if cafe, where the most charming little wu-ial reunions will go cm all day long. There are little Ameri- ran booths as well as French ones, and the language will be Babel. The English-speaking visitors will, however. 1 have no difficulty in finding a neat lit-tie lit-tie restaurant Where he or efte can be served in English with home cooking. Several Yankee restaurant keepers are here, and it ii funny to see the preparations prepar-ations they are making to inform the world that they have American dishes. fcMgius reading "New England Dinner," "Corn Beef Hash," "Codfish Balls" and "Boston Baked Bean?" are being printed by the ecore. Many of theie signs are d-me by ithe art f.iudents and decorated with a steaming picture of the tempting dainty. Even the French restaurants are "on." and are ordering little placards with "Pie of All Kinks" printed in English upon them, to be posted in a conspicuous place. ALL PLAIDS. Plaid if the ruling fancy of the moment, mo-ment, and plaid, whether in silk or 1 wool, ir? made up 'into c harming turn- I mer drees. Plaid wool skirts with I the tinieft and 'nurt brilliant thread uf I filk crossing the plaids is made up in I the new mod? skirt? which are tucked I i round the belt and llaring around the hips. Those ?kirts, Set a a close as can I be imagined for fix inches below the I belt line, where the tucks suddenly I mase. and the skirt falls pla!in to the I very hem. ' To make the new skirts very attract- I ive there is a drop skirt of silk, bor- 1 dered v.kh a deep ruffle of the dress I goodi?. Thiis drop skirt is quite short. ' i escaping the ground all the way around, i ko k is not necessary to hold it up, J the outer skirt only is1 lifted, and the s " drop ekirt hanpK nearly to the ground. I This pretty fashion is lees tiring on I the arm than that of lifting the whole I skirt and drop ekirt. 1 Your correspondent has spoken of the 5 deep girdles which prevail this year; 1 . many of theim tis" deep a? the arm pits. Tiht girdles are of silk, built upon a j foundation ef crinoline, stiffened with j ' whalebone. They are hooked around I I the waist, and are very snug and be- i ( oming to the figure. Light cloth is much used for street f :. Frowns. A platinum colored cloth dress, figured with tiny rose-ctdered .dots, was' I i trimmed round 'the foot with platinum ? taffeta put on In a deep knife plaiting, j The plain bodice has a deep yoke ruffle f i of platinum taffeta. A Roman blue foulard was made uith ! three tunics, all opening in front, and j : terminating in a point just in the mid- j ; die of the frontih breadth. The tunics ! l ;- were bordered with a coarse, lace-like J material of silk. The bodice was sleeve- S j Ites and low in the neck and wae for t J wear over a very tight-fitting waist of j ? lace cloth. ? Hats are receiving more attention '. ' than ever before, and are poetic in their harmonies. An exquisite hat built for ! I . a young woman who is to attend the ; j wedding of Miss Mabel McKinley, and . who has had many handsome hats and gowns made for her visit to Washing- I ton during that festive week, it? of . bluebell straw, with layers of white be- ': tween the nnvs of blue. BIG HATS. I The top is a big soft bag of turquois , blue satin, trimmed with the green I leaves of the rose plant. These leaves lie all around the crown and are set ; ; in the folds with irregularity, the deep 1 green of the leaves looking charming, ! against the turquois blue of the crown, i 1 At one side there is an immense red ' rose, as large as the biggest American Bauty that ever grew. This is a beautiful beau-tiful pattern for a summer hat and one that, while a picture hat, -is not too striking for street wear. A round hat with round brim is trimmed upon the edge with a fall of ecru lace. The top is trimmed with the same lace which is twisted around the crown and carried up to the back in a big loose fold, where it is hidden up under a great bunch of roses. The trimming of this hat is rather odd, as the roses lie at the back, high upon the coil of lace, while the stems point toward the front and terminate upon the brim" just over the forehead, where the roses generally lie. Hibbon, as a hat trimming, has been supplanted by lace and satin, though j sometimes used in bows and in rosettes which are so skillfully made as to look like pon pons. The t'.ofest effects are sought and the hard outlines, of felt and straw are avoided. It is rumored that the queen, or her daughter, the Princess Christian, will j hold a garden party this June and, to anticipate such an event, several very smart American women have ordered handsome costumes and picture hats. The Countess of Craven, who looks like a c hild, though she has been married mar-ried since 1S93. and must now be fully 26 years old, has a new gown which is a dream in prettinesss; a port of peaches and cream delicacy percades it, but in summer one can stand a great deal of peaches and cream. TEACH PINK. The material of the dress looks and feels like cream colored albatrcs, with a narrow silk strip of peach colored pink, running up and down the skirt, the drop skirt is of pink s:ilk. with a deep pink chiffon flounce upon the foot. The bodice is of the albatros, with the yoke tucked in such a way that none of the pink silk strip is visible, making mak-ing a cnam colored yoke. The lower part of the bodice is tucked so that the pink silk stripes only are visible. Around the bust there is tied a fisehu of pink chiffon. The hat that is -to be worn with this is a cream colored straw with big, soft pink silk crown, and an abundance of cream and pink revs. The sleeves of the gown are elbow length, calling for elbow gloves.- It is a passing fancy to tuck striped good in puch a way that the stripes are visible; and again so that the stripes do not reveal themselves, so that it looks like two materials. Of course, the tucks are no wider than a straw and lie very close together. An endless amount of handiwork is put upon these dresses and the couturieres vie with each other in making each gown a little bit fussier and more elaborate elab-orate than the others. Young girls' wresses remain plain except ex-cept for the tunic which falls over the drop skirt, and the deep ruffles that are used around the foot. Their bodices bod-ices are, however, very elaborate, and are a mass of fine tucking and lace. Lace cloth comes in all materials. There is a silk "lace-cloth." an open work and beautifully wrought out; and there is a "lace-cloth" in mull. The term is applied to any openwork material ma-terial that comes by the yard. DRESSING THE NECK. There has never been a time when so much attention was paid to dressing the neck becomingly. The neckwear this spring is of seemingly endless variety. We have neckwear for the street, for the theatre, for the dance, for the links. Lace collars, berthas and fichus trimmed with lace are among the most fashionable neckwenr. The fitted cape collars that look like yokes are exceedingly exceed-ingly good investments, for they can be worn with evening or day gowr.s, and they certainly add a great deal to the aprearance of a plain waist. One of the novelties for the girl of 1900 is copied after the collar her grandmother wore when she put on her be.'t gown and sat for her daguerrotype. Some of j the flat lace collars are cut sailor fash-I fash-I ion, some in square tabs. The newest are made of moussrdine de soie, ap-pliqued, ap-pliqued, with lace designs, but the lace is so arranged that but little of the mousseline shows. Honiton, renaissance, renais-sance, and duchesse are the laces most used for these collars. The long throat needs high collars, broad ribbons and many folds, while the short one -should be dresuei accordingly- j PRINCESS TUNICS AND AEE MADE OF FOULARD, SILK AND FIG- i URED GOODS OF THIN WOOL, I PEN PICTURE OF MRS. CARNEGIE Tlie Wife of the Iron King is Said to Have Inspired Him. Not long-ago Andrew Carnegie told a gentleman that he could not keep a business bus-iness appointment that afternoon, as he had an engagement to play golf with a dear friend. Two hours later the gentleman, gen-tleman, happening to drive over the Connecticut hills, siaw Mr. Carnegie playing golf with his wife, who was the "dear friend" referred to. Eleven years ago Andrew Carnegie, a man past middle life, was traveling through Scotland,. On one of his excursions ex-cursions into the country he was introduced intro-duced to Miss Louise YVhitefield, a very beautiful young American girl, who caught his fancy at once. They were much together and the inevitable happened. hap-pened. Mr. Carnegie, still in the prime of his affections, fell in love with the clever New York girl, and as soon as Miss Whitefield returned to America J their engagement was announced. Mr. ' Carnegie, at that time, was one of the ; richest men in the world, and his bride j came into a fortune and an establish- I ment which would not have been re- j fused by any one of the royal girls of , Queen Victoria's family of elderly Mrs. Carnegie. grandchildren who were, and are still, looking for desirable matches. The morning after the Whitefield-Camegie wedding the couple sailed from New York for Europe, where they roamed from place to place for a year. On their return to this country the Carnegies found so many residences awaiting them that they scarcely knew where to locate. A lovely home in Pennsylvania had its attractions; so had a beautiful residence at Greenwich. Green-wich. Conn., which they called Alta Crest, and which looked far over the beautiful Green mountains. Never a great yachtsman, Mr. Carnegie Carne-gie began to long more and more for a permanent home: so, after several visits vis-its to Scotland, he allowed Mrs. Carnegie Carne-gie to select a new and handsome hunting hunt-ing lodge and here the family have lived much of the time. The "Box," as it is called, is located near the Bradlev Martins, and here are gathered other English and American families who enjoyed en-joyed the simplicity of Scotch Highland life. MANY HOMES. Soon Mrs. Carnegie found herself at the head of a London house, and when a little daughter came three years ago to bless this family of wealth, there was Fume uncertainty as to where she should be raised. Mrs. Carnegie had always retained a love of her native land, and when Mr. Carnegie decided to build a home in New York, she was overjoyed. About a vear ago the handsomest building site in Gotham was selected and plans were drawn up for a house which should cover thirty city lots and which, standing' in th most expensive part of Fifth avenue, Should be surrounded ; with flowers and grass, as though it 1 w ere in the country. ' ! The house is of steel, marble and 1 limetvrom?; and is one of the moet ex-j ex-j quic'ite rel'dinces in New York, where all the magnates of the world come ' for the pleasure, it is said, of living 'part of the year, opposite Central park. Many of the fine houses are open only for three monuhs at the finit of the year, when the park is denuded of its blown, but the lo-ely viita attracts them; and Gotham life is dear to the hearts of the dames of the family. Mie. Caineg'ie, though transferred from comparative poverty to great wealth, fihowed no change beyond that inseparable from mili'ionfi. Well edu-j edu-j cated, a fine musician, a linguist of - merit, handome and of graceful mien, I rfhe began at once to give forth, from her abundance. Hers. is said to oe the mini w hich instigated Mr- Carnegie to give away h.'cs wealth; hers the hand that supplements his deeds of charity. char-ity. Mrs. Carnegie, when she urged the retirement of the steel king, is said to have asked him 'to settle a sufficient sum upon the little daughter to make her comfortable for life; but beyond that she wanted nothing. All the rest should be given away ad freely as it had been given. MUSICAL CHARITY. YVhile Mr. Carnegie chose libraries as a medium for his philanthropy, Mrs-. Carnegid developed many musical scheme:.. Remembering one day a New Yoik woman whom she had known I year's before, she &at down and wrote to her, asking what e!he could do for her if Phe wanted anything. The New York woman wrote back that t'he had a daughter who wanted a musical education. By return mail there came back from Scotland a very substantial check, with instructions to use it immediately, as more would follow. fol-low. Mrs. Carnegie is indefatigable in her ambition for raiiting the standard of American music. If she hea.re of any poor, struggling musician, either nan or woman, no matter what the nationality, nation-ality, she ferre!?. out his or her whereabouts, where-abouts, and wKihout any loss of time arranges more ce.ngertlai environments and brighter prc.spect of Kudy. She 10 full of n-.'agnetiim, and often has been heard to- say to her friends: "I can tell thj Instant I look at persons whether they have any genius for music or not. I think this is a peculiar gift to me from Providence, for I never make a mistake in helping- those Who I tec are worthy." |