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Show Whatever you do, make sure have a visa for Hungary by Art Berman . It was 2 oclock on a Sunday GYOR, Hungary railroad morning and the cavernous, station was alive with young Hungarians, some slightly tipsy, on their way home from a Saturday night on the town. soldiers A few older people and also were waiting for early morning trains. The crowd of about 100 was weary but mellow. These were our fellow travelers, speaking; all of us would have a long wait for a train here in northeast Hungary. And I was hopping on my left foot in an circle, which Ill explain later. If the Hungarians thought that odd, they were kind enough not to stare except, perhaps, for an occasional furtive glance. But, then, people had been glancing all night at these strange Americans whose clothes were a little brighter and better fitting and whose luggage came in different sizes but still matched. If I had been able to speak Hungarian I might have once-elega- nt olive-uniform- ly ever-wideni- HAWAII Los Angeles Times Writer told these folks that Gyor wasnt on our itinerary. In fact, wed never heard of Gyor, which is near the Czechoslovakian border. BUT OUR TRIP had become a bit complicated nine hours earlier when my wife and I were kicked off the Orient Express on the other side of the Austrian border. Let me describe that first because there is a moral to this story for any travelers, especially an inexperienced one like me: When approaching strange countries, be sure to comply with visa regulations. We had inadvertently accepted the assurance of a American that our Romanian visas would get us across Hungary because we didnt plan to leave the train from Vienna to Bucharest. (Relatives were waiting for us in Romania.) WE SHOULD HAVE asked a Hungarian. When we boarded the Orient Express, best known as a setting for spy stories and intrigue (but really just an old train), we expected an interesting overnight trip across Hungary. But not that interesting. Within a few minutes of settling into our sleeping compartment we were approached by a burgundy-uniforme- d porter who spoke little English but managed to ask for our Hungarian visas. We quickly realized we were up the Danube without the proper papers. WITHIN AN HOUR, despite an impassioned discussion joined by several multilingual passengers, the porter was depositing us at a tiny depot a few miles from the Hungarian border. We had two choices: Catch a train back to Vienna and wait for the Hungarian Consulate to open Monday morning, wasting 48 hours, or take a cab to the border, try to get a visa there and, if we were quick enough, catch the Orient Express 55 minutes later at a brief layover just inside Hungary. We chose to try the border; we also werent quick enough. A cab driver with an old Ford understood our plight and, for about $50, raced down an asphalt country road (by then it was raining, too) and in half an hour reached the border station. It turned out to be a low building bustling with activity, and delays. THE CABBIE, a small, cheerful man with a gold tooth and a wool cap, nursed us through the bureaucracy, stopping occasionally to shake hands with various soldiers and officials. (We had a feeling he had been there before.) For another $30 or so we had our pictures taken by a Polaroid camera, filled out several forms and were Col. 1 See Page H-2- 1, ISLES OF PARADISE t. There is no place in the world quite like Hawaii. Discover y tour. We paradise with us on our personally escorted feature a complete itinerary of sightseeing with many unique activities offered only on this tour. You ! fly on United Artmes to Hawaii, stay m first class hotels, have 14 delicious meals and come home with memories to last a lifetime. Oct. Based on DBL. 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