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Show Patchwork technique is key secret to designing 'smashing ' 1 lawless patterns By PEGGY EMERY THE PATCHWORK TECHNIQUE: TECHNI-QUE: A basic pattern-making principle. prin-ciple. It has been my secret desire to become a "Designing Woman," but I had the misconception that drafting patterns would take years of complicated study. After reading some books on the subject, I learned a few basic concepts con-cepts and suddenly found myself able to look at a garment and figure out how the pattern was made. A whole new viewpoint opened up, and sewing become not only fun again, but a lot easier. In this series of articles designed to help us become smashing successes suc-cesses at garment making, the patchwork technique is one of the key secrets. Here it is: You can take a pattern piece, cut it up, and put the pieces back together, jigsaw fashion, fash-ion, without changing the fit. This works on patterns for bodices, bod-ices, skirts, sleeves, pants, dresses, jackets, whatever. Adding seams does tend to make the seam area a little stiffer and adds a little weight, but that is often a plus. lines across it, then hold it up to yourself for a preview. Once you like the effect, proceed as above. Pattern lines need to be either ruler straight or sweeping curves. Wavering, uncertain lines look amateurish. ama-teurish. You will need a ruler and yardstick, but don't run out and buy an assortment of curved plastic guides. You have artistic abilities you may not even realize, and a built-in compass at your fingertips. With a pencil in your hand and elbow locked, try making quick sweeps using your whole arm. The secret is pretending your shoulder is nailed to the same spot as you draw. For rounder curves try anchoring your elbow (or wrist) on the table to use as a pivot while you draw arcs. (See sketch C.) Use the artist's trick of making several sweeping lines in light pencil, then pen in the one that looks best. As you become more experienced, experi-enced, much time can be saved by skipping step 4 ching line directly on the fabric, then sketching in a 58 inch seam allowance all around. Soap slivers, chalk, and pencil can be used, but test any marker on the fabric first, being especially careful with dry cleanable fabrics. Marks usually wash out of polyesters and cottons. Soap slivers are my favorite markers because they glide along the fabric so nicely. nice-ly. You need a hard white soap such as Jergens or Sweetheart, since SHIRT "V iu I PR0NT 1 '" BORING 1 Draw line; Add seam S, match marks allowances JuSn and cut to cut edees ff 5 " L Full front JL Draw linesj Add seam Three color tissue copy U) match marks allowances J sweatshirt and cut to cut edees marbled soaps don t maxe a visioie Since the actual stitching line is marked, the sewing goes quickly and precisely. This technique has the accuracy of tracing wheel lines without the fuss, and is especially helpful on curved areas. Caution: Never cut until you are positive all seam allowances have been added. Patchwork technique allows all sorts of design creativity such as adding yokes, insetting panels of a different fabric, creating a deep V neckline effect, and princess lines. Top stitching or trims can be used to emphasize the newly created seams. Many of today's dresses, tops, T-shirts, and jogging suits use this technique as shown in sketch C. Try some of these ideas. It's exciting ex-citing fun to create your own exclusive ex-clusive design. Next: Slash and Spread: This is the second basic pattern making principle. It is a way of adding fullness to an already existing pattern pat-tern piece. CORRECTION: The pattern for a rounded neckline in the Oct. 9 issue had to be reduced in size by the printer, and isn't going to fit anyone. If you would like a copy of the actual size pattern, please send a self-addressed stamped envelope to Peggy Emery, 1401 N. Peachtree, Centerville, Utah 84014. For example, take a T-shirt front pattern and follow the drawings shown in sketch A to change a boring bor-ing shirt to one with a yoke. Four steps to follow when creating a new pattern: 1. Make match marks on the new lines as many as you need. 2. Check to see if straight-of-fabric lines will be left on each pattern pat-tern piece after it is cut If not, draw some parallel to the original line. 3. Cut the pieces apart. 4. Add 58 inch seam lines to ALL cut pattern edges. Sketch B shows a sweatshirt (recently (re-cently advertised in . a newspaper supplement) made in an attractive block combination of bright ihk, turquoise and royal blue. To duplicate this asymmetric design, there is an extra step needed. Make a full front copy of the pattern on , tissue paper. (Tape tissue sheets together if needed.) Draw a tine down center front, then position horizontal lines, one high, one low, wherever you think they will look good. These horizontal horizon-tal lines need to be at right angles to the center front line. Use a triangle, (or a sheet of typing paper) to make sure they are squared. Cut apart, add match marks and seam allowance. Now pick which colors to use and sew it up. Straight lines may bore you, so try some sweeping curves as shown in the dress in Sketch D. Again you will need to copy a full pattern on tissue paper. Draw some sweeping r |
