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Show Gold' and Silver Threads Woven in Robes of Silk a . for either afternoon or evening wear, and now that thin country la minted la tha war It Is likely that the two-in-ona aort of frock which Paris has advocated ad-vocated will become a fashion here. Thla maana that tha eemiformal dreaa will take precedence of the full eve-nine- regalia. Many women are endeavoring to counteract the depressing- effect of war on clothe and on business by en-I en-I eouraglna the wearing of cheerful garments. gar-ments. They declare that U la a mistake mis-take to ko about garbed in sable-hued habiliments. The effect on one's aelf and on other la anything but cheerful. cheer-ful. To be sure, one should bava a proper regard for national conditions, but to anticipate III la to retard progress prog-ress toward the happy solution of present problems. Also there Is a distinct tendency to fmtronlae American-made dresses. This done fhT no nosrriff-sntni I" nance, but rather with the understanding that by keeping the home talent busy we are doing the right thing In the direction di-rection of helping Krance, too. Many THE glitter of gold and allver is till a feature of evening clothea. rne cannot escaps from It. even If she wished to. because somehow some-how It has become thoroughly associated asso-ciated with tha Idea of regality and refined re-fined splendor. A "great quantity of the models which tuna over from Paris aev-eral aev-eral weeks ago were shot with gold and silver threads. Many American women who had been wearing dresses of metallized fabric during the winter win-ter rather questioned the Judgment of the French couturiers in continuing the use of such matertala through to warm weather. From some quarters come, the announcement an-nouncement that, the big dress-makere dress-makere found quantitlea of rich materials ma-terials on their heads, while lightweight light-weight weavee such aa one ordinarily Idaiilifi. wUh m-armweather;ar- menta were scarce. This, in a way may explain the preponderance of metal tissues and metal woven silks and satins in the new fashions. However, now that narrow sytles I ...... . una rx9 Rtn nVfT of the shops have taken occasion to conspicuously advertise American fabrics. fab-rics. American dresses, suits and hats While black haa gained In favor for venlng wear. Ihe laclinatlon I. for color In the afternoon frock. The black of the evening robe Is relieved of its excessive quality of aombreness by trimmings of glittering Jet, embroideries embroider-ies of aicel bead, or touches of rblns-stone rblns-stone garniture. Otherwise there Is no color, although the individual may, at her own Hiscretlon, attach a corsage flower or afanel aaah of some exquisite exqui-site ribbon.r The little trotteur. .which Is of so much lmportancethla aeason, la blossoming blos-soming - in msny attrarSiw colore. Beige la very modish, and, despite the fact that it has become alarmingly popular, it holds Its own with the newer comers. Among the latter la Aharon rose, which has a purplish tings and Is very attractive In wool or In silk. Then there Is butternut, turf, brown, shadow lawn green, sunrise yellow and royal purple. Several of theae shades are really old aoqualntancea. brought up to date by a rechristening. But thst does not In the lesst detract from their beauty, and the consensus of opinion is tnat they will have a very good run right through the season. burdened with rich materials will not be so pronounce!! aa during the departing depart-ing seawn. Also It is a matter for con-gratulatlnn-that it will take less material mate-rial to turn out the authentic gown. When one considers that some of these fabrics start In at Hi a yard and aa-cend aa-cend readily Into three figures, any extra Inches add to ths grest cost of models made of these sumptuous fabrics. fab-rics. Along with the rich silks one notes the use of sliver and gold laces, very discreetly Introduced eo aa not to cheapen the very effect of elegance which la ultimately aimed at. To get awav from too heavy an effect some of the designers hsve used yellow nets and thereon npplied tracery embroideries em-broideries In tinseled threads. The result Is highly satisfactory, providing Ihe work Is well done. It seems now that trains are an accepted appendage. It Is extremely wrobcble that Ihey will be an Incorporated Incorpo-rated psrt of the evening dress of the coming season. The summer is a period pe-riod of Informality In dress, and the train will not be a. generally used a. will the .hort-sklrted frock. The latter lat-ter la so youthful and. moreover. It has the advantage of helna comfortable and convenient for the dance. Manv of the frocks are mada with ttegaroing ine lines or tne street dress, it may be atated that the chemise che-mise style leads. Thl. means tnat straight linea are essential, and that the may be brought about in any number of waya. Machine plaiting are frequently employed from the blouse yoke to the hem of the skirt In the one-piece frocks. The principal effort Is to prevent any unnecessary flare to the skirt. The waistline la left broad and the hlpa are flattened to emphasise the boyish contour. A. the weeks go by It la apparent that white will become more and more popular. It la being employed in wools, satina and In waahable fabrlca. such aa linen, cotton etamlne and voile. Soutache Sou-tache braiding la liked on these dresses without regard to the fabric the trsln added aa a distinctive restore and as a separate Institution. This mesne that It may be very readily removed, re-moved, or appended, a. occasion may demand. For thia reason straight panel effects are favored. Sometime, they take on a sash suggestion, and often the vornera are rounded or alashed. although on the whole the straight edge finish Is preferred. Since Csllot has put the seal of her snproval on evening gowns with short-skirted short-skirted fronts snd trailing back the prospect, ar. that we ehall have the model with Irregular length right through the present season and carried car-ried on Into that of the autumn. This sort of compromise gown hsa Its ad-vantagea. ad-vantagea. One can step about with I comfort, and the train may be lifted I and thrown over the arm when thread- ing ths intricate maaes of the modern I dance. There 'is little new to report on the I matter of bodices. They consist of i quality rather than quantity, and em-. em-. ploy a good deal of tulle by wav of ! providing a frame for the ahouldere J and a suggestion of sleeves for the j arm It has become the cuetom to I tack the tulle scarf to the back of the . bodice, and again to the shoulders, the ' ends being left free to float about in I graceful faatiion. ( lnatead of having but one aort of model from which to make choice that la. the alevle modal wo-, man may now ealct-th gown with tha little' puff of tulle or allk auapended by narrow atrapa from t-ha shoulder, or she may wear a a-own with a half sleeve of fine net with a fluffy fintnh of net flounoea placed Juat above the elbows. The evening dreaa proper doea not permit the wearing of long sleevea, although al-though theae are found In certain of the models whtrh hsve hen rtealrned |