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Show I Summer Fabrics Favored bu Parisiennes .rIC! Mav 2S. Although out-rfoor out-rfoor attractions, such as polo 9Hk -r-d the races, occupy the at-!Hl at-!Hl Nation of elegant Parisian kWi mondalne. then- is a good iSmB 1 nf i festive xaturc, rang- -SB8 to Small theater parties. But clock! w JJJ" Eecms to be the 1 Tiffed, and a delightful us "L " Blven Friday by the Com-i-Sstellane. with Melba as the bff attraction. There Is a j-ounp EnLnta" slnffer. Mile. Maria Serena, ftoumiiniai success at these B,0,ISiiS Admirable In voice If cinS' P-tty. this new artist WE a! her debut at Mrs. Moore's elegant T i ion at her salon in the Avenue mSuZ L jille. Serena on this occasion Kid diaruilnsr l black crepe de Kreand a white chiffon corrage m- Eaiied in back ,nollfs Worn w,th a Le black picture hat. Wfat dancinj, too. of an American girl, 'Kim Irudora Duncan, has created quite 'Bill-InUie art T.'orW. Miss Duncan is Klnr h( she cp lis Beethoven move-3Ente move-3Ente a nen- departure in the terp-iK5io-wn field. Which she interprets to accompaniment oC Beethoven mu-'T mu-'T jtmavbe carrying the protest too IX" to eall thif performance a sacrilege, W it is certain that the young: Amcr-nXrts Amcr-nXrts ill adviBed In her choice and t'ri- beyond her depth in approach-"iij approach-"iij ! stcr such as Bcethovon. Still Immena Salles des Fetes in the aB&ttdero. which holds 5.000 people. m yis fuied to overflowing with an audl- race who followed with Interest Miss : 5uncn's graceful movements. The k tetamme comprised the adagio of the ' onats ?thetlquc," the "Moonlight" i mi tin last three movements of the Sivfr.ili Symphony." The public gen-' gen-' tTnlly are of the opinion that Mlsx Dun-m Dun-m rtiould either dance to music espe-' espe-' oaJlv written for her or interpret the ' fiusical movements of Gluck or tho i Jjvoltes cf Bach. H Bringing these meanderings In the wUl and musical world to a practical Sartorial iesue, I noticed among the ex-1 ex-1 ijiihitel' gowned women at these af-' af-' hfeir how handicapped even these ifiiceful figures were in walking by the ' Ions, full skirts of the day. The art of (graceful walking. It seems, will have to ' be learned all over again. A swanlike fUde bids fair to be the gait of the up to date woman who walks abroad in jorms with billowy fullness trailing iiround her feet to the depth of five or litren inches on the ground. The pity Brit Is that the taJlor made gown is no ' Bore exempt from thin Impediment (ban the frocks of silk and voile. With i view to giving the heavier materials 1 b "flare" there are new petticoats which iaumc the "crinoline" shape and arc ' firmly boned around the hem. jj Where the thinner and lighter mate-rids mate-rids are used the boned petticoat is ; rjpfrHuous. as the great number of ' ;?uffles and shlrrings and the enormous TfHlh of the skirl make the crinoline Quite unneeesaary. This is one of the Wajfons upon which one realizes that : mills of fashion grind very surely, -oush slowly, but If La Mode's stern " rfci,?!jteice on this point suggests the Ipuikd hand under the velvet glove it is only the result-of expediency and a. desire to help the traveler on her way. The decision In the crinoline sleeve case Is not so bad. This balloony frill, wired or boned at the base, has an old jvvH 1 IlilM fjV'8'.i Along the line of shirt waist accesso- fashioned charm which in the hands of an authority Is exceedingly pleasing. Another extenuation of the crinoline is found in the dear little silk capes gathered gath-ered top and bottom to give them the correct rounded appearance, with long, gathered ends reaching to the hen) of the gown. On a raw day these small wraps are an ideal protection, and when worn with a taffeta frock and one of the quaint checked silk parasols no bigger than the brim of a large sized hat with a handle that doubles up heaven knows why the effect is old world to a degree. Pique, which several years ago wa.s the favorite wash material for smart tailor mades. is this season us dead as the dodo, but there has appeared In some fete gown models a glorified pique which could pass muster for a. new wash stuff. A costume seen recently re-cently of this pique de luxe had on its plaited skirt incrustations of embroidery embroid-ery and Irish lace. The corsage was of muslin, made with many tiny plaits and jilmoKt covered with a splendid collar of Irish lacp. The waistband of pique came up in corselet style on the blouse and laced across on mother-of-pearl buttons. This rather odd corselet reminds me of the now ceinture to be worn with morning blouses and slips. It deserves mention Just because it happens to be a novelty and represents a welcome change from the eternal black and colored col-ored suede belts. The new ceinture is carried out Jn plaited taffeta with cross bands of stitched leather to keep the in the clear book muslin tucked affair, trimmed with quantities of cobwebby lace If destined for afternoon wear. For morning the neatest little muslin shirts are merely tucked and have down the front a wide strip of muslin cm-broidery cm-broidery outlined at either edge by a Tom Thumb quilling of Valenciennes lace. The more or less stiff white linen collar is worn with this shirt. Another pretty blouse called into vogue by the dircctoire modo Is finished with a cascaded jabot of plaited nnrs-lln nnrs-lln or of lawn and lace tied at the throat with a, velvet bow, the Jabot being be-ing devised to fill in the space left by the decollete double breasted vest. It Is hardly necessary to say that one is hopelessly de mode nowadays when wearing a blouse of one color with a skirt of another and a belt of still another an-other color. Along the line of shirt waist accessories accesso-ries are the new "blouse sctv," which A HALF DOZEN SMART PARISIAN GOWNS. plaits in' place. A stunning effect is gained by using, under the bands of leather, taffeta of no less than three or four gradations of color. With the smarter gowns, however, the swathed girdle will be the thing, and to a slight figure it is certainly becoming ajid chic. Anent the alwuys interesting subject of the shirt waist, it is a fact, deaplte the much heralded advent of the colored color-ed waist, that white blouses will reign supreme this summer. The very latest expression of the white waist is found smart' jewelers are putting up In the prettleeit little satin boxes. They contain con-tain three different sizes of gold safety pins and two lace or scarf pins elaborately elabo-rately set with precious stones. Then tucked in for a "lucky charm" is a heart matching exactly the pins in precious motal. Tho apex of this is fixed with the birth stone of the wearer. The question of the separate linen skirt for golfinc. tennis, walking and sports generally is a much debated one at this time of the year. Even the golfing skirts Hhow the full 1330 tendency, tend-ency, and when not gathered they are box or side plaited. Whatever the style sclectod for this uneful Jupe, there la no branch of our wardrobe whore the essential es-sential qualities of cut arc more Indls-pcnuable Indls-pcnuable tha.n in the linen skirt which makes frequent visits to the v.-ashtub. I have had many discouraging experiences experi-ences with tubbing .skirts of the seven or nine gored variety, and we all are acquainted with the hopeless failure of the searm after the washing and ironing. iron-ing. The appalling prominence the Hklrt assumes outlined by a ahlny pattern pat-tern traced from the turnings of the Iron, the unevenness at the hem or the uncomfortable tightness around the hips, and the unkind manner In which it emphasizes the difference between the two sides arc enough to make the av-erugc av-erugc woman weep. In two models of the summer linen skirt the seams retire re-tire modestly Into the background. To descend to the technicalities of making, one skirt has a front gore continued con-tinued In the form of a pointed hip yoke around the back, where a mitered strap makes for neatness and finish. This yoke, which is guiltless of soam or dart, is stitched at the edge on a box plaited skirt. The yoke is turned back over a strip of linen cut on the straight about an Inch wide at the narrowest part. The firmness thus afforded 7iot only proservca the skirt from the deadly onslaughts of the laundress, but strengthens the outline of the yoke. The second model Is especially dedicated dedi-cated to the llnon de soie and soft, sheer weaves which make up into stunning stun-ning skirts to wear with fancy lingerie waiJte. It is of the full, all round length, gathered at the top with a scalloped scal-loped border. On the lower part it is piped with the llnon. Buttons set at Intervals In simulated buttonholes hold the border in place. When the gored skirt is usod the Hare begins higher up than we have been accustomed to see It lately! In making, carefully tack a piece of tape behind each scam before stitching. This precaution not only lendJ durability, durabil-ity, but gives tho stitching a better effect. ef-fect. On the athletic nklrt, if the heui is turned up on" the right 3lde and a piece of tape inserted on which to stitch the required number of rows thero la nothing in which the heel of the boot can possibly catch. Other linen skirts, made with alternate alter-nate bands of tucks and embroidery, are smart models. The length of the skirt varies acpordlng to time and place. The walking Jupes clear the ground about an Inch, while the sporting sport-ing Hkirt falls Just to the ankle, and, noed!cs to say, the llnon de soie drags itself in the approved "sloppy" fashion all around the feet. CATHERIX-E TALBOT. Heltn anil Sanhcs, Belts are conspicuous by their attractiveness attrac-tiveness at present. The folded black satin or silk belt we have always with us, and there arc endless variations of this Idea, Long ends knotted several times muke a pretty finish to the back of a skirt and are very handy to redeem the appearance of a last year's frock. The bows should reach four or live inches above the waist and be set upright up-right on the belt. Tho Ingenious niay devise countless delightful notions for themselves and their friends. Rucked belts of suede and leather can now be had from a dollar up. but it is much wiser to invest in one oC exquisite quality qual-ity and color. A rood everyday belt bestows a glow of conscious virtue and well being and, once acquired, lasts for a long, long time, and no more worry with wisps of ribbon, clasps, etc. To be neat at the neck and waist Ik half the battle. The military wash belt is a new device. It Is finished at the side by-large by-large tassels, but only slender figures should wear it. Tooled leather is another an-other charming Idea for a belt, and these may be had In a dintlnct and individual in-dividual style which Is very pleasing to the possessor. Those who work In leather can produce delightful specimens, speci-mens, and so many women do this leather work nowadays for paatlme. Tooled leather button arc also charming charm-ing for coats and outdoor gowns. (IronmcBlfl Knp Hie Hn!r. For evening wear or for any dressy-occasion dressy-occasion the very' latest hair ornament is a true lover's knot in ribbon velvet, the ribbon following the line of the head and ending in two tiny silk tassels tas-sels just behind the left ear. The ef-ftict. ef-ftict. though perhaps a trifle Spanish lookinsr. is dooldedly becoming, and it is an ornament the smart girl could very easily make for her.ielf. All the material required will be a yard of ribbon rib-bon velvet to either match or contrast with the sown and two tafeln of the same color. Instead of the ribbon velvet vel-vet the tasselH might be fastened with tiny paste bucklos or any small fancy ornaments, which can be picket! up for a small sum and are capable of impart- j Ing a verysmart appearance. I Xevr Iilens for Children' IlntN, Hats for 1IM1 yirls are most attractive" attrac-tive" and quaint. Of these perhaps the moot fascinating are the little straw mushroom shapes with a beehive crown. Simply trimmed with a couple of rosettes or a wreath of daisies and tied on with ribbons they are quite irresistible. ir-resistible. Then there are the little French bonnets made from tuscan straw with a square crown ajnd very wide, fluted brim. These lend themselves them-selves to nn endless variety of colors and trimming, and a clever mother could evolve one out of nn ordinary tuscan straw hat if she out away the brim from the back of the orown. |