Show f ij A Trw I s w m H FINE SUMMER WRAPS I Charming Little Capes Boleros and Silk Dust Coats For Warm Weather I ALPINES THAT MAY BE WASHED EVERY WEEK There Are Some Wonderful Combinations Combina-tions in Both long and Short Wraps This Season in Which Cherry Muslin and Changeable Silks Are Greatly in Evidence New York June 1897 Certainly the very refinement of extravagance Is the h Indulgence of a taste for those airy fairy exquisite impractical yet undeniably unde-niably necessary and becoming details of dress called summer wraps Their excuse for being is to be beautiful and to beautify not to protect one against dust rain heat or cold Speaking from the practical side and the econ eco-n side too a set of summer wraps should properly consist or a rain coat or park coat a dust ulster a serviceable service-able tweed cape and a roadster coat of cofrt cloth A park coat is requisite as a shield in bad weather for this garment is a vast improvement on all the summer rain protectors yet brought out It is In reality a wellcut long il tt eat either of porous rainproof tweed I I or better still waterproof silk It is box cut back and front with coachman sleeves has a collar to turn up well around the neck and its ample outside putkets have buttoned flaps The ad vanLdse of its full skirts and amnle arm bags is that it affords a free circulation cir-culation If air inside which prevents the vcnr from overheating as in a luavy mtlki1tt5h and provides a per fii t raiu ou for driving or riding a horse or a v hi ol SILK DUST CLOAKS The very strikng ones in waterproof silk are bright Prussian blue outside ana crimson within having every lad la-d taehablt hi uds buttoning one b N the coliar and their front buttons made of big disks of smoked pearl This wrap is wholly an evolution of u ira modern joienco as is the excel Int 1 duster referred to Cornflower blue taffeta silk is the dust ulsters II OIKV material though women whoa ar > by the way wearing them exten sivly this summer have what they c Il rarriag ulsters made up in rich 1 nr5 of dahlia golden brown and Ii > rentlne nd ilk or linen Mohair is i another gods individuals adapt to I tni purinie hut mohair and alpaca j are hot eVEn if they are dustproof I I By a carriage ulster is also meant a I I traveling ulster for railway traveling i exclusively the big wraps being so I artfully made as to afford perfect pro ction to ones smart traveling suit Iis bishop sleeves button in close at the wrist a silk jnuslln plaited ruff gives i the neck finish and the skirts are buttoned but-toned nearly to the hem Back and front the easy box cut is used for on 4k drawing up to a door in a trap the wearer merely rises hastily detaches the buttons and leaves the dust ulster on the vehicles seat while she steps forth Immaculate in her dainty organdie organ-die or just before the train rushes into the station that marks her destination des-tination she shakes off the silken chrysahs folds it to fit exactly into a tiny silk bag made tq < contain it and escaping a threshing at the hands of the parlor car porter emerges from the coach as crisp and clean as when she set out ORNAMENTAL WRAPS But all these are summer wraps for utility Those for ornament purely deserve I T de-serve a chapter to themselves It is I safe to say they are more bizarre and I rich in ornament than ever before > This is because there ae really only two shapes adopted and in the effort to arrive at Individuality the cape and bolero have cut wpnderful capers I Their gymnastics are performed from 1 the waist line up for to let either fall I r L Jw = S i k I below the hip Is a melancholy error of taste indeed A BOLERO WRAP The sketch of a new bolero gives some idea of how far this little garment gar-ment is being distorted from its original orig-inal outlines However the original of the sober black and white as it appears on paper Is a bljou of a wrap The foundation Is black satin on which back and front are worked out graceful grace-ful arabesques In gold and steel 1 and jet beads The epaulettes and nigh neck ruff are of cherry red silk muslin mus-lin There is nothing even to be winked at in the combination of colors or goods On the backs of women whose taste is regarded as a standard one sees little Eton coats of white silk slit up to the shoulder blades behind edged with a lovely fringe of ivory beads and the sleeves of dandelion I I I I r FOR MOURNING I I yellow silk muslin in plaited frills that j I stretch their wings enormously sleeves In the true sense they are not just I epaulettes and it is very proper to I wear as tall and showy a ruff collar I behind the ears as possible This is I I true not only of wraps but gowns as well for all occasions and on evening I dresses stiffened lace medIc collars I larger far than ever seen before spring I out about the shoulders woman who cannot afford the lace wear lovely ones I of plaited black or white tulle NOVELTIES IN CAPES But if the boleros are remarkable the new capes go them one better and with the unreasoning but none the less attractive at-tractive coquetry their makes contrive they shall express numbers are I wrought from liberty silk silk muslin lace and net with a trimming of fur Only the very narrowest lines of er e mine will stripe a black muslin cape for example and a frankly bright grass green taffeta one veiled In white lace has an edging scarce a fourth of an inch wide of sable that embellishes every pert little flounce that falls over the shoulders And after all whv should this not be for fur is surelY decorative and so used there Is no heat in it One of the prettiest small shoulder shoul-der wraps and J serviceable one too as those things go was worn by a maid of honor at a wedding Her gown was white dotted Swiss over light blue silk her hat a burnt straw wreathed in two shades of cornflowers and her cape of cornflower blue moire benga line lined with pale blue silk and bearing a border and falling collar of chinchilla If some of these capes descend so far as the waist line the majority reach only to the elbows as the black one for instance in the illustration The model for this sketch was a smart mourning wrap The < foundation lightweight light-weight black silk Its yoke of dull jet i beads below which fluffed out ruffle I after ruffle of finely plaited black silk muslin Full beautiful black ostrich I i t L J plumes contributed the collar A copy has been made in white plumes silk I muslin and steel beading and alongside lay a quaint carriage cape of more stable materialpale gray cloth beaded in steel lined with white and bearing about its edge a fine plaiting of white sill This was the ground plan so to speak on which fell a wide collar that at a distance seemed made of a remarkable re-markable new fur In reality it vas entirely covered with numberless half I inch deep plaitings of white silk muslin mus-lin set close together and standing I straight upWASHABLE WASHABLE HATS So much for the confections and vanities van-ities Now for the realities of dress This week there are some novel shirt 1 I GREY CLOTH waists of brown linen with bolero jacket fronts set on over full pouching bosoms The boleros are a part of the shirt sewed in at the shoulder armhole arm-hole and under arm seams They do not extend to the back and many of them aredaintily decorated with chain stitch embroidery done by the machine but none the less attractive and popular popu-lar for that A hat that will wash is also a Jct expression of the milliners genius White linen Is what It is made of or brown linen if you choose and the familiar fa-miliar alpine shape is adopted for this cool and light head gear than in both brim and crown is only made in two thicknesses of linen stitched elaborately elaborate-ly I It is a positive fact that when the white linen hat grows soiled it can be given to the laundress who may soap scrub starch and Iron it into an ati pearance of Immaculate newness The brown ones are equally adapted to tub bings and later the manufacturers promise the same make and shape in blue and pink linen All this is clean and convenient but by way of placing variation from the alpine shape there is a nice hat just out woven in flat creamcolored straw its crown running up toa perfect cone The rather narrow crown juts out like that of a sailor and women who wear this shape for all outing purposes trim the frames with a bright plaid silk handkerchief and one or two stout silver sil-ver stickpins The very truth is that we are growing desperately lazy about trimming our hats at all so much do the manufacturers do to solve the I question of how or what shall be done All fresh from the factory come straws with net and tulle brim facings plaited I plait-ed in by machinery the linings for c I l1 = = I VI J r ii 1c i f I l 1 l 1 1r Xii X-ii r cr ii WI r I rU I ± 4 HLr f f I DUST CLOTH AND LIGHT WRAP crowns are a matter of course and for both children and women lovely hats of pale green yellow and rosecolored rice straw are woven with Buffings of white chiffon or narrow fillings of silk I muslin escaping from beneath every layer of straw on the brim I I SUMMER VEILS Along with the hats are veils of a recent invention worth mentioning They are literally two veils woven as one Against the face lies a fine film of ivory white tulle upon which is I I woven a coarse mesh of blue brown or black silk net amply sprinkled with I I chenille dots This Is recommended asa as-a tan and freckle proof face coverintr and at the same time not thick and I hot as the chiffon or sewing silk lengths usually worn by tender skinned women May be the autumn will bring a change in this respect but so far the small fan proudly waves Black gauze ontajte closely sprinkled with bright I green sequins had all the rest for full dress occasions and not only is the I gauze mounting but the sticks too I I resplendent with these sparkling dots I < < i IV of color It Is noticeable that only a few of the spangled fans are painted while for daylight use the smart thing is I a small fan of ivory sticks mounted mount-ed with a curious thin bright Japanese silk painted in Japanese watercoiorc I j Little girls fall heir to the lately imported straw fans from Japan fan clfully painted In scenes from eastern t nurseries schools etc Not as cleve an Idea on the part of mothers is that I of putting their short skirted daughter i into bright plaid stockings arid pointed j toed shoes This last fashion Is a plb I as American children In spite of theIr shortcomings are usually the most sen I sibly and gracefully dressed little people peo-ple of any nation Witness for example exam-ple the nice suit In the sketch of ol green canvas cloth trimmed with frills of shot green silk in lighter shade the I waist opening at the neck to show a yoke of creamcolored Irish lace NINA FITCH I |