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Show 1 PLAYS UPON SKIRT DRAPESRSES m-S Special to The Tribune. NEW YORK, Sept. 11. In the new fall suits which are drifting slowly into the dressmaking shops one sees a good many interesting plays upon the skirt draperies that were introduced last spring. Some of these draperies run into coal effects and coals merge into skirt draperies so cunningly that one is often puzzled to know their actual character. char-acter. With tho increased demand for coats on tho street there has come in a slylo that is likely not to diminish for somo time to come. It is the gown of street effect which may b worn indoors and needs no coat outdoors. Tho lines of tho gown lake on a coat shape, bur so subtly-that it remained suited to the house. Incidentally the new coats are a revelation rev-elation of the tailorJs art, so exquisitely fashioned and handsomely trimmed are some of Chem.' Plain designs are also decidedly smart, deriving their 'Character 'Charac-ter from the finished lines and superior workmanship. For" present wear nolh-ing nolh-ing is more popular than circular capes, in many modifications, as well as the conventional shape. Of these Iho military- is most, .practical. These wraps are a 1 way's of cloth or serge, never silk or satin, and arc almost devoid of trim ming, with the exception of a pretty collar and buttons for closing. This is the .strictly military. Then I bore is a modification in a wrap for afternoon "or evening use in capes. This should be trimmed with buttons, braid and sometimes embroidery. For more pretentious occasions the "newest, circular cape is cut with a deep round' voke fiflinfr tho figure as far ns tlin el bow. It is cut in pointed scallops all around, then handsomely trimmed with braid the color of the cloth. Tho points arc free, giving a double cape effect. Developed from soft, old rose cloth and lined with peau do cygne the same shade a wrap on this order would bo exqui site. A new feature of the latest coats is a lining lo match or contrast'. While, so long a favorite, has been abolished, for not a single wrap among tho new models displays a white satin lining. Only a few years ago white duchesse satin lining was "correct." Now tho preference is for colored peau de cygne exclusively. Evening wraps are built on the lines of tho military but arc, of course, much looser, and there is no limit to the decoration dec-oration that may be placed upon them. The slits for the arms arc often richly ornamented and so are the collarles's necks. Black broadcloth will be the favorite fa-vorite fabric for separate coats for street wear. This is a sensihle fashion, because black looks well over a gown of any color. The length is never less than three-quarters and more often longer, the cut. semi-fitting, though a little more snug than last year's styles. The sleeves, too, while coat shaped. are plainer at the top less of box iiffect. Colored broadcloth separate -coats for day wear arc few. When a color is preferred, then the circular model is bought. There are only a few white wraps among the new models. Black-silk, Black-silk, gold braid and buttons seem to be the fabrics used lo give tone to these garments. Light weight tweed separate coats are smart looking, plainly plain-ly tailored and in utiobstructive colorings. color-ings. For business wear over a rlyn dress these coats .answer admirably when the time comes that such protection protec-tion is needed. One sees a touch of velvet on many of the new garments. A coat shown in one shop, lor instance, was. a rough frieze, thick, but not heavy, made in a kind of ulster, suitable, for steamer or automobile wear, and was finished with a large sailor collar, of black velvet. It was odd looking and scarcely a practical trimming. The sailor collar effects arc now taken in connection with long separate coats, but ninny of the new wraps display them. An odd arrangement; on one garment was a tailor collar in the back only. It was like a square yokt, the frorrt affecting the Tuxedo coll irs. Aji other was squared off on the cuds m front and short at the back. Generally, it is tho sleeve of a garment that shows the greatest amount of change. This year tho important points scents to be the neck. Of all the garments' brought in this season none lias been more practical than the reversible cape, which miiv be worn either side out and which saves not only the packing of two garments, but the buying of one. The cape is of one color on one side and another color on the other. The necks are finished on both sides and tho result is salisfactorv. Many such capes are made of black satin with orange, rose color, blue or other .color for the reverse side. The lining of tho cape in either case becomes be-comes the trimming for the other, appearing ap-pearing in collar and front bands. Some new features have been"' added to the sartorial situation since earlv summer. The standing of the tunic |