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Show Cycling - Seat Height Important (S The bicycle may be one of mankinds greatest mechanical achievements providing the greatest distance traveled per person for a given expenditure of energy. i A graph depicting this relationship was printed in"the Last Whole Earth Catalog." The cyclist easily out distanced passengers aboard jet planes, trains, autos, motorcycles, boats, and horses for the same fixed unit of energy consumed. It is very likely that you would disagree with these statistics if you were to ride even the best bicycle without first making the necessary adjustments that enable the rider to achieve full potential astride the seat of a cycle. Once the proper frame size has been obtained the tailoring process should begin by adjusting seat height to fit the rider's leg length. Locate the binder bolt at the top of the seat tube and slacken it off enough to prevent marring the post as it is slid up and out of the frame. Coat the post with a thin film of grease for protection and precise adjustment then reinsert it to a position that will allow the bike to be mounted. Cinch down the bolt, place the bike near a wall or something that can be leaned against and mount up bringing one pedal to the bottom of it's stroke. Notice how much the leg is bent at the knee when the pedal is fully down. This angle should be slight, just enough to prevent full extension of the knee while you sit in the upright riding position with the ball of the foot directly over the pedal axle and the sole of the foot flat or parallel to the ground. Too much bend creates premature fatigue of the quadracep group of muscles, covering the front and sides of the upper leg causing a 20 miles jaunt to feel entirely up hill. If the bend is too slight, knee damage can easily develop, from hyper extension as the cyclist reaches for the bottom of each stroke. This adjustment may take miles to perfect so carry a wrench to fit the binder bolt and experiment with slight changes in seat height. Seat posts should protrude no more than 2 12 to 3 inches on a properly sized frame. If more extension is needed, check to see if at least 112 inches of post remains within the frame tube. Various length posts are available so if a different size is required take the original along to the store to assure a proper diameter match up. Next loosen the seat rail clamp and with the saddle level place one elbow in contact with the seat nose reaching forward towards the bars with the forearm parallel to the top tube and the fingers outstretched. Move the seat fore or aft so that the middle finger just touches the horizontal section of the bars. For now, deviation of a few centimeters can be overlooked but if the difference is short or long by more than this the stem (the past attaching the bars to the forks) should be changed for one having a suitable reach to correct . this dimension. Riding with this distance too short will kink the back and force the arms to support too much weight. When the distance between seat and bars is longer than the rider's reach a stretched out and stiff armed posture will result. Again if the stem must be replaced take the original along for diameter match up and comparison. Before tightening the rail clamp, set the seat rake at level. Later if there is excessive pressure or numbness of the pubic region of the pelvis the seat nose can be lowered or raised depending on rider preference. Adust Bars The bars can now be adjusted for height by loosening the stem center bolt until it spins free. Tap it lightly on top to release the binder wedge inside. Straddle the front wheel and wiggle the bars from side to side while pulling up or pushing down. Rider preference should determine this setting but leave at least an inch or slightly more inside the head tube to provide a good binding surface. Be careful not to over tighten the slender binding bolt after moving the stem and realign the bars with the front wheel before proceeding. Handle bar tilt can now be set by first slackening the lock bolt on the stem clamp that encircles the bars. If the bike is equiped with dropped bars (the kind that curl around under) it is best to select a setting that places the dropped segment somewhere between level and the angle of the frame down tube. Angling the drops allows the rider to exert more pulling, power for sprints and hill climbing while providing a comfortable upright position while grasping the horizontal or curved brake level attachment area. Tighten down the clamp bolt and gather up the wrenches used for all of these adjustments. Carry the wrenches while riding and don't be hesitant to make alterations. A few centimeters will make vast differences in the overall feeling of the bike. After riding long enough to tune in the bicycle to your personal body dimensions, longer distances and more time in the saddle will become natural. |