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Show L A T E S T ' P A R 1 5'",' FaTh I OnT I II w s2tfHTIE wonderful color contrasts and SS I combinations that the French lJS I designers have cbnrnied us with :Htf ' this season would seem to have regulated style and cut of the CIMieTV models to a secondary consideration. tffliSi1 ereu'nS gowns, however, there is such ,7W 'marked difference In cut. which, though njijot noticeable perhaps at 'a first s wire Ojfto the casual observer, is very interP3t'iig jV8o those who arc ready to decide on ftjlgvenins dreass for this winter. . ' H n nc rst n'ace trains arc added to fglTlmost every elaborate dress modfl. QMTrtins of couic wore worn last winter. Ibut wcro nice little pointed atairs or the. nJorel one-sided kind that attracted altcn-JtKin altcn-JtKin simply because they had not been iKen on gowns for several years, But the Sraln of to-day is a much more complicated Urcss delr.il, because it is trimmed, draped, bisected, tied and contains much individuality, individ-uality, aiding the silhouette, and seeming ST natural outcome of the drapery which Ilfcrms part of every recent imported drcs3 '6del iJK-The most curious of all thc;e different, Ifatylcs of train are thoe where the Hklrt mms to be made of a single wide MgJbicadth of the material swathed across fthe body in folds aud draped up and pMught into lovely draperies either below Wh.e knees or looped up toward the back. Mefining the figure ai giving a curing fihic to the back. What rcmaiiN of the Jbreadth after this drags ovir the giounl wliatcvcr an odd shaped corner (bat ppens to be left and the effect is some What bewildering at lirst to the enn-Iwivatirc enn-Iwivatirc mind. Nevertheless, done with Itgnerring French taste, it must be ad-tjBiitled ad-tjBiitled both charming and fashionable. Bribe two pointed train of this year differs from that of Inst. It is not one um panel breadth of slashed material, hut ' 7jtw"o separate panels of bieaddis crdssed iThc bisected train, -slathod-up- toi iiu Spec depth in Jhc back, as reported by rlRmericans. seemed an unbelievable indiscretion, in-discretion, but before this innovation vns I many weeks old the two cdgc3 were yrca light together invisibly and the train knotted or fastened by lovely embroidered tfrnaments. so becoming di.screelly charm-ling, charm-ling, yet retaining the original idea. The BTrimmed train, an extremely fuithful reproduction re-production of that fashion of the gi'eigblics," is returning with many other Ifauaint details of those days of draped presses. K. Most of these trains are lined with bright contrasting colors, though sometimes some-times the lining of the same shape is left unattached ; in cither case the color con-it- irast has that something of the unexpected unex-pected always attractive to a new fashion. For as the train slips and slides as the wearer moves the bright liniug color flashes, into and out of view. I Drapery Is so much a part of the trained (ritl lnt v titti Trj f rflu Evening gown that to mention one is to Include the other. There U one interest-fug interest-fug fashion point about it also; that Is, j -n the drauerj is of the gown material it !: not draped into such deep folds nor is it so conspicuous as when it is of another an-other material than the dress and applied in .scarf like form to it. This Is for the good reason, perhaps, that it i so much easier to arrange deep folds in a separate material, and they may he more Grnily and invisibly tacked to the foundation dress than when they are taken up in the gown material nd fastened Into some seam. Another dressmaking detail Is that when the folds arc of the gown material some sort of pannier effect is introduced and merged In a few draped folds. The ncwot ilr.ipcri dresses from Paris include a number of unique models where Ijo 0 'J lll - $ ' 'tT Two Po,nleduT2lnSl by Bandlit FfcSk '&&, ' .' t,, A i?,,. &',-Zsm , SrVr- 5eluihe f.5-rlshi. 1012. u& lM The Transparent Wrap of Moussefine "He Sole, with Embroidery and Drawr ' Stitching PJiotrt CopjHfhf, 1910, by llratltarr t ' ' ' licltulTt Copytlrht. 1012, ' . S N" Vorli llerIJ Cerapiox the material, swathed or laid in llat folds across the front, caught in al the back about fifteen inches below the blt, defines rather distinctly the contour, then drops into long folds to one of tho odd trains already mentioned. This curious changing of the fashionable outline out-line at the buck is showu is some other Pans dresses where Ecarflike applied draperies wind about the figure over the foundation skirt, aud a relative effect is given by lightening or draping the folds till they define the lignrc. When done artistically and modestly It cannot fail to please, for some of the draped statues of Greek figures have their bhar. Is draped about them in the &aiuc moemcal. Krocades their combinations of uui-tcilal uui-tcilal and color arc seemingly endless und a chiffon phiah are the new winter materials, but sutinwf from inessallue to libcriy; bead cmbroldoicd chiffons and iiumb&cliue du sole are still m.tv fashionable. fashion-able. Vov all these drape into lovely folds, or na transparent fabrics aro suitable for the clinging foundation dres. ; A vi idc bASh belt accompanies many of the evening gowns thai arc not draped on princess lines, so that while the high vnist line is preserved lu a measure by the belt top the lower edge given to the outline a longer waist. Above this sash the nialen'Hl may match Ju color, but i ".Iwajs markedly transparent, The .ccve and shape of the low neck are frankly Greek In most gowns. Studying all these details of cut and material it is easily scon that thio year's fashionable silhouette is distinctly different from that of last The Paris evening dresses on this page show most interestingly many of tlieio fashion details. In a black satin craped robe, by Rondeau, the drapery is drawn up to show the curves of the figure. The skin has the bisected train, knotted aud tied at tho end?, and the belt and bodice seams are of silver embroidery. em-broidery. A drapery finishing in o pointed end at the back, hidden by the pose, Is balanced by a half width train in a .Tpnny raodol. Made of white sitln princes.se. and draped, the entire upper part is of transparent tulle crossed by rhinestouc chains ending in front in a triangular ornament. A cluster of roses (.'.itches tho silver lace rnlllo to the skill In front. The third robe h of old rose sstin lightly veiled with black tulle and embroidered em-broidered with a design lu pcarU. A wide breadth of black velvet drapes about the lower part of the gown, falling into a I crossed train at the back, and there is an' answering color note in the black bell. . Two models, one of fur, ono of chiffon, show thu extremely wide range of material ii6cd for winter evening wr.ipo. The chiffon wrap nould slip under a heavy fur automobile coat nicely for some occasions and could be retained for wear indoors over thin frocks. One model is of old rose nllk muulin braided with white, that of chinchilla fur has a black fox bolder. HAIR ORNAMENTS. "r-IIIS is to be a season of hair orna-I orna-I menLs, and it is a comfortable rcllec-lion rcllec-lion for tho majority of women who have not the perfection of beauty which raakca any sort of coiffure ornament becoming be-coming that theic is the greatest amonnt of libcriy uffordtd in the sclectiou of the new ornaments, Never before have the styles put forward as amoug the staHou'n newest offerings included uuch a great variety of these ornaments, the styles differing dif-fering so widely that there I no possibility possibil-ity of a woman being unable to find an ornament for wear with evening dress that is not both becoming and smart. Tho straight bandeau, which is especially espe-cially suited to the ioxcuuc ityle of hair dressing, except when a high r.lgrelte or other standing ornament is attached to It at one side or directly in front, the broader bandeau in pearls, diamonds, ' Oriental embroideries and gold and colored 'hfecudes, clasped at intervals with jew elled ornaments, tho more stately tiaras of pearls, diamonds, sapphires and emeralds and the fascinating Juliet caps made for the low coiffure are all equally smart. It depands only on the personal style of the Individual and the nature of the cosnimc with which the coiffure ornament Is to bo worn as to which Is chocen. One of the simplest aud most elegant of the bandeaux offered at the fashionable jawellcr's consists of four straight strands of small pearls with a single strand of brilliants on each side. Twisted ropes of tiny pearls, Bomc of them straight and some arranged in loops and lattices are among the new bandeaux. Exquisite liaras arc of the finest workmanship in platinum encrusted with niyrindn of tiny brilliants, with perhaps five large stonos arranged in the centre of the design. The work presents the appearance of tho most exquisite of Jack Frost's tracery. T'illcts mnde of delicate wreaths, the platinum work in leaves and vines, with tho palest pink pearls set in for the fiowerd are r-mong the loveliest of the jeweller's offer ings. Among the Juoet caps, which are soft, unlined little bead dresses composed of jewels and bead to-L in flexihle strands, one of the most attractive Is made of old silver filigiec work with entre deux of single pearl strands. A fascinating little cap is of tho finest white net, the design wrought In pearls and liny brilliants. Alternating Btrnnds of pearl and hrill-lauts hrill-lauts compose othir enpr, end 5imi" of the most attractive arc of a network of pearls bordered with a tiny fringe of the same. Next after the pearl and brilliant ornaments (hose made entirely of brilliants brill-iants nre tho 01031 popular, for, or course, they have the advantage of being suitable suit-able for wear with every qoitume, which is not the easo with thu colored stones. Some of the brilliant bandeaux uro made in threo .strands ho thut the hair may show lu between. Large ornaments finish fin-ish these fillets at each side. Then thurc arc also the large lattice woik bandeaux, which show their hair in diamouds between be-tween the slmudj. Many women who wear real jewels in their hair purcluihc these ornaments luudt up in such a way that they win be worn both in the hair or on thu corsage, l'oi this purpose n long corsage ornament, which ri(es higher in the centre, U pei feetly satisfactory for both purpose. Ot course, ouo may argue that when Jt desirable to wear the corsage ornament the colffur. ornament will also be needed, but thL Is not always the case, with some costumes an aigrette i &uiUeicnt in the hair, when the-jewel may bo uom as a cort-r.'j oruamput, and again it moy be vioru iu the hair; when a necklaco Ik worn for the only decoration of tho costume. cos-tume. GOWN SACHETS FOR GIFTS. TORRn are few, small Christmas gifts which will give so much pleasure to dainty women as the little boxes of sown sachets which are now so attrac-tivo attrac-tivo and which may be bought at mnnyj of the ahops nnd also made at very little cost of the maker's time. A great mnny woman who do uot care to go In for making mak-ing elnboratp Chrlatma-s gifts enjoy devoting devot-ing a little lime to turning out tho charming charm-ing little 'sachets which are so useful and so attractive. The sachets arc usually about two and n half inches Equarc, the material being Fa tin. brocade or silk, nnd the color that! which (he person to whom they arc to boi presented most affects. Should there b", any doubt as lo which color is preferred,! white with a little color in the embroidery is always deMtahle. especially if a delicate ivory Is chosen instead of a clear white. The sachets arc made quite flat, and thrfo sides of them may perfectly well be stitched up on tho machine, the padding pad-ding being tjien-p'tft in, after which the loorjb-'iMe is sewed by hand. Tn the k<eroB' fragrance It Is most important vffiBS&t . :'. -. iia The Chinchilla Fur Coat with Black Fox and Border 1 I'holo Cop3 rlahl. 1012, l,y Itculltuvr Exclnilre Cojiyriglii, Wl'J, Neu York Ilr raU Coaponj- to consult the txuste of the recipient of thu gift, as nothing can bo more distressing than lo receive so charming a present which is unwcnrnble because the scent is uot one's farorite. ' Ax fernrifo fashion of tlacorating the sachets is (o embroider the flower represented repre-sented by the fragrance in the centre of ono aide. The embroidery should be very slight and small. A Jlowored silk or sailn may be chosen tor the covers, nnd then no embroidary Is neccsary. A liny chllfcn flower nppllqucd to the centre of each ML-hek la also attractive. But, It I not necessary to deqorate tho sachcta at all, as they nre stifliciently dainty of tlnjm-iclves tlnjm-iclves ir aicely made. After the six sachete which usually constitute con-stitute the gift nre finished they are tied, together with a narrow ribbou of the kinue color and placed In uu attractive box of the proper size and color. .Miniature tlowcr covered hat boxes such as arc now-sold now-sold in the shops ar attractive for this purpose, either in square or oval shapes. FUR TRIMMINGS FOR HATS rUR is being used on (his season's hats lu a great variety of ways, and all sorts of fur are being made use of. Brou'd bands, large enough to coci the side of the crown completely; the nar-rowvit nar-rowvit edgings which arc made up, iu connection with crape and plush; facings and brims of fur on hats of Mtin, brocade and velvet aud tall ornaments of fur taking tak-ing the place of fenthcr3 appear on the hnta which will be used in the curly part of the Reason by women who do not care to wear an all fur toque until midwinter Is upon us. One of the Intcicstlug ways of using fur handing is the employment as a bor-dnr bor-dnr of the very narrowest stnpc ot white fox. The long hair of the fur gives an effect like that ot a feather banding. This white fox may he used as a border around the silk crcpo which is draped around the crown of the bat. In the front a tall wing of the crepe and of chiffon is also bordered with the for handing. The whitel fox is often used on a blnck hat, especially espe-cially a 'satin vr silk finished boater bst. A white hat covered with silk crC-pe or plush nnd faced with blael: hns the crown draped in while, hordercd with a long haired black fur jn the same manner. Taupe colored hats of the picture order which are covered with taupe crOpe or satin or velvet brocade, are faced with the fur, which is turned up on top, of the brim in a two inch border and sometimes a deeper one. Olher brocade hat, tbr-s of the heavy velvet brocgdtfS, aro bordered with an edge of s,able ov of skim., and a fur orenment-is used at oue side. Small white -hats with very narrow brims are pot shaped: crown? have a broad, r!-h band of far resting on the brim all the way around and a straight and heavy pieco of fur going straight up in front something like a military cockade. Tli2 fur i& held in place by a large ornament of tarulshed gold galoon shaped liko a lurge open buckle. BAGS AND PURSES. BEAD bags and puraca arc now more fashionable than ever, and the old fashioned drsijns which were In oguo in our graudmothars. time arc Ntlll the moat popular for these punwF. Many women are nmLInj; the bkis aad purses for Christmas gifts for thair frieudi, and even tho moat fastidious wopinn will wtl-coine wtl-coine such a gift, for the purses and bags when made of line boftds aud in beautiful, designs aro a delightful accessory to tho costume and by no means Un iuexjx:iLivo one. Black grounds, with the dcxigus wrought in the quaint old fashioned shades of rose, rod, blue and violet, arc very fashionabUj. Three shades of violet and a little pulp green make a charming colcn effect on a liaekgroiind of black bead; Lavender and old pink nre fascinaling on a - having a dais blu background, and tor this season's fashionable lanpc idmd.f there are purses niid bligs in doliclous shades of lose. Ju many of the purses the design la a-'cluster a-'cluster of roses imiitod together in tape-' try fakhlon. Other purses have designs ot a more pictorial nature,, sceAO of quite aiij elaborate character beiug wrought withj much detail. Still olher puree are decorated deco-rated -wiili a conventional pattern set on tho solid bead background like a wall paper design.' Anions thuse.!113" I'tti; ! ISST 1 (.CT-irSTVtHD-l,-) H ;.-CT.MilI7MltnilCi i J, H Iu-fi. shows archaic tree: of (he Noah'ft H ark variety wrought z sold and steel H beid aud Et on .- dark green ground. H The trees are quite lr.ie, :hoe of he. H steel beads altercating with those of gold H At Ue xhoptf where the canvas: stamped l for the bean purses and bags Is on ! it is u&ual to have each pattern ha'f fin H ished. the amateur bend worker thus nav- ing before her constantly a perfect pal- H teru from which to complete the other half." The design for the unfinished half is stamped in colors as a further aid to the M worker. For a lurge bag (he cntiro ma- H teriols, including the half wrought pat- H tern, are ?.3. A small purse witii all ma- H terials is ?G..jO. After the bags are fin- H ished they are mounted by a jeweller, either on guu metal, silver or gold. H HAMMERED SILVER. Old fa&bioued hammered, silver is now IH returning to favor and at some of the H fashionable silversmiths' it may be seen in rivalry with the pierced work deigns H which have been considered most desir- IH able now for several years. The bam- IH rncrcd silver pieces for the table are ecu. M ally quite plain in design, the ornamen- IH tation consisting usually of a light en- IH graved pattern iu the border, which in H some instances is picked out in nu,.... IH Babies' porringers and small and large bowls of every description arc among the articles especially to be noticed in this hammered silver. Treated in this way the silver has an exquisite soft finish and is more delicate in color than when used in other fashions. Without having the IH frosted effect or what is known a's the dull finish, It also escapes the brightness Of the highly polished pieces. The small IH bowls arc most attractive In this style of silver. The prices for the hammered silver are greater than those of the pierced sil- vcr designs, as the hammered silver H pieces contain more of the metal and the I amount of labor expended on them i H at least as great. H Decanters of crystal and .silver have the design of the thistle for those who love Scotch aud the design of the rye H for those who do not love Scotch. The de- H I sign is worked out on the crystal and also H on the silrer stoppers. The dtcactera H come in crery bhape, some of them t,quar H and large around with haudici r.nd IH others nil and slender like ordinary jH bottles. Another favorite decanter lc- H oigii lias the bottle encased iu a stive: H lattice work, the spacer quite large and H showing a good d'.-al of the gbw oe- l tween. H Fallionablo nilvcnmiths aie making tLc little niHlttn nicks which lmvo become sj H popular fur tbtt afternoon ia cqaipuieiu. H with iOfej of silver tniys o match. i'L." H trayi, aro perfectly plalu ami tit tnaccly H into each Of :h wooden raekt. IH Seld of Individual vrystal v$c to mrtch a largo x'asc which is used in the ceutu H of the table arc used by sonic liOAleiS'-a H with great success for the decoration of H Inueneoii and dinner tables. The vumh nr id in silver- Uuskels or &taud. At B there is a s of them iht-y may he use J J w itli some aricty. Four of them are use J with the centrepiece aud comieeied with H it by fcilver 'cli'aiil:-. th vvhulv ..fcriiiiig a larger ccourcpiucc for bODic StrCfi'sfoiii. H 1. - ." VI 1 Again 4hc eeHfbi- vafce is placed- on a H minor and tin nnill ikes circled arouud H it aud voiiuccteil with each other and im. H centre by vim. Souictimes at - small H lu'ticlicon the, 'small vars Arc lut, ai c'li 1 place, trailing via, Sid;to'ard th eeptre H of the Mbjg, and the ceanTu vanflrt Irthil H witlgrapiii, the vinb trfllIl:fPiivn o-r H ihe tftble alid conneli1le flJfe OiJirire vn," M ulnrly with the s,mall vusee. h M |