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Show PARIS GOWK'S WORN BY AMERI-"... AMERI-"... CANS. - ' i Mrs. Edwin Gould Creates a Sensa tion in a Beautiful Combination of Black and White Pink the Season's Sea-son's Color Mrs. Potter Palmer Dazzles Paris With Her Toilettes and Introduces New Modes to Paris Par-is Society. (Specially written for the Woman's de- : " - partrnent of The Intermountain Catholic.) I Taris. June 24. The spring dresses I worn at the races, in Paris, at the ver- ' nissage, at the Salon, in the Bois de , Boulogne and at the theatres have many novel features; so many, in fact, that one despairs of ever describing any ! of them, so great is the whirl of mind which they produce. Next to the year 1SS0, when fashions were so complex that everything was 1 . trimmed with a bow or a ilounce, the i ; year lHOO will hold the record of the cen- j tury in complicated mate-rials and trim- ' mines. And not only are these mixed r in an unusual degree, - but colors, are s combined in strange ways, until, the nhow window of a iashionable- shop re- sembles a rainbow in hue. In justice to the styles it may be said j that thev are pretty. The trying ha"bit I J back; the very difficult fitted hips and j . the narrow knees are all abandoned for 5 a sweeping skirt rather wide and quite long. In these new skirts there is. a sug-: sug-: gestion of a return to the c rinoline, or . n at least of a return to the round skirt which may, before the first of the year, be a thing that is again in vogue. ' 'We have indeed the round skirt now. I am describing a dress worn by Mrs. Potter Palmer a few days ago. It was a standard blue foulard, figured with manv fancy stampings, all in geometric designs. Circles, squares and triangles in cream coveted its blue surface. The skirt, the cxuteuriere who made it informed the writer, was cut perfectly per-fectly round, slightly longer in the back thah in the front. The fullness from the waist to the hips was confined by manv rows of shirring, which were placed so close to each other that they made a yoke which was, almost a trimming trim-ming for the skirt. Below this shirred yoke the skirt flared out a little and was trimmed around the foot with many ruffles, put on in curved shape, some draped high; and others extend- j ing to the foot of the skirt. j MRS. PALMER'S DRESS. The waist had a shirred yoke and the tops of the sleeves were shirred. This gave a rather pretty and decidedly ju- "t ' venile appearance to the waist, though the front was brought down in a long point in the middle of the belt. A broad girdle of artichoke green satin confined the waist. The hat. was a marvel in green and pink, the two colors being cunningly mingled as in a flower garden. gar-den. Mrs. Edwin Gould, who has been ere- f a ting something of a sensation over here 'for her youth, her" good looks and '-. her elegant gowns, and who was re cently presented at court, wore, a few days ago, a dress which attracted attention. at-tention. It was in black and white, ; those two most desirable colors from a modiste's sta; ,:ooint. "Give me black i and white, and I can do anything." said I , a fashionable dressmaker the other day, i running her hands through a chiffon 4 flounce of black, ami caressingly drap- ii intr it over a white satin skirt. i Mrs. Gould's dress, as worn in Lon- j don and described by a girl correspond- r ent in a letter to an artist friend in f Paris, was all in black and white. "The skirt," said the letter, "was a black silk tulle, very shiny nd' as thin ; v as a spider web. It was cut round and was shirred at the waist line until it i was exactly the same fullness all the j way around. It was made over a skirt. of white taffeta with a luffle of em s' broidery. The ' skirt had a yoke of I white taffeta, embroidered in silver. i "The waist was of black tulle with a yoke of embroidered taffeta set over a vest of tulle. The lower part of the waist was of the white embroidery to match the yoke. The sleeves were of tulle shirred over a white taffeta foundation." foun-dation." The letter concludes:- "You can imagine imag-ine the pretty soft coolness of such A gown and the sensation it made in a wilderness of color." A brilliant touch of color is given these rather sombre gowns by the stock which is of bright blue.r green, or even of scarlet. For the making of these stocks the newest colors are used, the fair pale shades of green and the startling greenish blues being very popular. pop-ular. In reds, 'geranium Jeads at present, pres-ent, its ripe brilliancy making it a favorite, fa-vorite, as it gives to costumes the one touch they may lack.- FANCY STITCHING. The combinations in materials grow more numerous, instead of fewer. The tailor-made gown has gone from simplicity sim-plicity to complicity and you see gowns of satin cloth trimmed with silver applique; ap-plique; and tailor-made costumes of cashmere decorated with designs in velvet. These designs are applied freely free-ly to yoke and sleeves and are put upon the skirt in panels; they are also used for trimming the bare spaces in the skirt where the ruffle is put on in scallops. scal-lops. In its beauty of stitching the tailor-made tailor-made gown still reigns alone and supreme. su-preme. Stitchings are numerous and complicated and are put on in all sorts of ways. Stitching has become a profession, pro-fession, or rather a regular occupation, and there are seamstresses who devote all their time to it. The handsomest tailor gowns are given into their hands and, with careful fingers, they guide the machine along the outlines of the seams in a way that marks the tailor-made tailor-made dress and gives it a distinction of its own. Nor are the seams the only parts that are stitched. . The tailor-made dresses are decorated along the hem with handsome hand-some flowers in stitched designs. The most expert stitchers use the natural colors and the result is a border of flowers in stitched design, .v-ong the hem of the skirt, and upon the waist. Heavy silk is used for stitching, but no attempt is made at embroidery or other fancy stitch. A rapid stitcher wi 1 complete a tailor-made gown in three clays and the result will be extremely neat. A decided combination in materials is afforded by the new methods of using jet, steel :and gun metal as yokes. Entire En-tire yokes are made of these materials, sewed upon a foundation in tiny pieces, in sue-h a way. as to cover the yoke completely. This is worn over a dress of thin substance, even over tulle and other transparencies, and thus the armor ar-mor becomes a part of the transparent waist. THE SINGLE ROSE. The single rose has appeared as a fashionable trimming. Many are the hats of tan colored and corn colored straw and of straw in its natural shades that are d immed with tulle, put around the crown in the form of a big soft roll that completely hides the crown. At one side there is a big nodding rose of pink or red or white standing high upon its stalk with a leaf or two. The rose is used upon the back of the stock and it is also seen upon the belt and on the parasol. Four large handsome hand-some roses of silk or velvet are used for this purpose and often you will rind them scented with a powder which is concealed in their stalk. Large bows of new ribbon are used in connection with these roses. The ribbon is of satin brocaded with velvet flowers in their natural colors. In silk ribbons you see flowers of cashmere set in and very natural they look with their dull hues; all ribbons .re elaborately elabor-ately brocaded and there are few materials ma-terials that are not mingled in with the silk and satin groundwork of the ribbon. rib-bon. A LACE, NOVELTY. Another novelty of the reason is the lace braid which .is used for trimming many waists. It looks like lace, but is much coarser and is generally in the form of an Insertion. It comes in cotton cot-ton and silk of all colors. It is of re-nai;iOice re-nai;iOice pattern and is used for sewing sew-ing upon the waist between rows of tucks. This lace braid reminds you. in some patterns, a little of the old-fashioned torchon which in its day enjoyed such a popularity. .Among the transparent materials that are new this season is a crash so coarse that the lining is visible. Threads of the crash are drawn and ribbons run through. In !iis way a neat shirring is made for the yoke. Ecru colored crash, over a lining of pink, is very pretty, especially when worn with a sash and stock of ' pink and an ecru hat with a nodding pink rose. The functions of .pink have been increased in-creased this season by the many new shades. Many of these have familiar names, like the Lawson pink of a couple of seasons ago. The Dewey pink is a very pale pink, while the Empire pink is rather deep. Brunettes can aspire as-pire to all these shades, unless it be the deepest of them, but the blonde must be careful. It takes very little to make a fair complexion muddy, by the side of a ripe pink. Better choose the fair shades, even though they fade a little during the summer. The plain colors will not rule this fall; it Is to be a brocade season; and the brocades will cunningly mingle velvet vel-vet and silk, lace and cotton, until the prettiest of results are obtained. |