| OCR Text |
Show to- Merest Our Lady Triends. ! THE SONG OF THE OLD MOTHER. (W. B. Yeats in London Academy.) I ris in the dawn, and I kneel and blow. , Till the seed of the fire flicker and glow And then I must scrub and bake and sweep Till the stars are beginning to blink and And hl 'young lie long and dream in their bed Of the matching of ribbon for bosom anu head. And their duv goes over in idleness. And thev sigh tf the wind but lift a tress; While 1 must work because I am old. And the seed of the fire gets feeble ana cold. LATEST IN DKESS. Summer after summer Dame Fashion has smiled sarcastically, but forbore, j "Never, never," chanted the chorus, j "could we go back to the dress of our j mothers. We are too wise, too athletic; j we are too sensible, we the modern summer girls." Still Dame Fashion, smiled, but this time she shrugged her shoulders. "Let me see," one can imagine her muttering. mutter-ing. "Long skirts," she decreed a year ago; "you shall wear longer skirts than your mothers." "Never," retorted the (physically) new woman, then went straight and ordered trains from her dressmaker. "I told you so," said Dame Fashion. "Tight skirts," was the next word; the (physically) new woman groaned, but swathed herself in skin-tight wrappings. wrap-pings. "White skirts," Dame Fashion added, and the obedient summer girl gave up tennis, gave up her bicycle, gave up golf, and has sat around ever since in fussy, if filmy muslins. Golf is on the decline.' More people play it than ever. More by thousands, but they are not the fashionable. The exclusives are dropping it. as they dropped the bicycle. The others will follow. They will be glad to do so. To tramp over the links in skirts as long as were the promenade skirts of two years ago is work, not pleasure. Dame Fashion has vanquished athleticism. Her authority is re-established. Long skirts will continue all winter. Longer than ever. Tight skirts also. Not tighter than ever, for that were impossible. Less tight in all probabilitya probabil-itya slight easing for variety. Greater fullness is allowed about the feet, but the cut is on essentially the same lines. Tight corsets will continue. Long corsets cor-sets that give the fit required by tha princess dress and the long polonaise. Next summer, may be, when the empire em-pire styles approach for they are on the horizon we shall have shorter, easier stays. Then, mayhap, the modern mod-ern woman will say again: "I refuse to lace. Behold! I am sensible." And again Dame Fashion and those who know her ways, and women's, will laugh in their sleeves. Brilliant, showy effects are to be predicted. pre-dicted. Violets and brocades for dress materials; vivid pronounced dyes for colorings. There are already on view aggressive blood-orange and deep orange-yellow tones, a livid purple, novel tints of mahogany, a strong, warm Egyptian red, two or three trying copper shades and a variety of greens laurel, stem-green and a range of bronze tones. There are new royal, marine and Neapolitan shades in blue Qnrl tVr nllfllmn QhnnHona ff hrnu"n These tones appear not only in the etamines and crepons and fine wool grenadines for the autumn, but in the cloths, the brocades and the corded and veloutine silks of the later season. Princess effects rule as for months past; not princess dresises pure and simple, but a polonaise reaching to the heels and completed by a shaped flounce that may be nothing but a flounce or that may be .a full-fledged underskirt of different color and material. The reign of the guimpe is not over. Some of the prettiest of the new dresses are made with a bewildering variety of guimpes, a device as fashionable as economical. The new tailor gowns and pseudo-tailor pseudo-tailor gowns are trimmed with flat braid put on with conspicuous stitching. stitch-ing. Innumerable embroidered dresses are imported, those most in vogue having hav-ing deep floral borders in colors con trasting with the fabric: for example, roses and foliage on a delicate, pale sage-green. These decorated fabrics are expensive to buy, but they require no trimminc. The vogue of braid is being abused. The large, intricate and conspicuous patterns with which many a dress is covered are far from the best taste, but no signs of a reaction are apparent. A striking costume recently finished in New York for Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish is of deep red fleur de velour. says our New York correspondent. The plain princess tunic crossing over from one shoulder forms a plait, which narrows toward the waist and widens again upon the skirts as it approaches the hem. On one side of the plait are small black velvet rosettes connected by chains of diamonds. The only bodice decoration is a narrow fold of black diamond-studded velvet finishing the decolletage. A black foulard dress, also for Mrs. Fish, is covered with large red roses in pink and deep red tones. The polonaise of this dress reaches at the back quite to the feet, and into it is woven an insertion of black lace half a yard deep, which blends with the fabric in a manner man-ner unaccountable. The bodice has sleeves of lace, and the throat finish is a mass of black frills worked with magnificent mag-nificent gold embroidery and jewels. The hat to go with this toilet has a short crown and a high, flaring brim, which is completely covered with black ostrich feathers. Threaded through the crown are soft black muslin mus-lin scarf strings. A notable cloth dress of laurel green has a close-fitting molded tunic open on the left side of the skirt and laced about the hem and the top of the low bodice with narrow black ribbon. Black velvet shoulder straps appear to hold the cloth part of the corsage to the under bodice of ecru guipure. The under un-der petticoat of guipure lace is singularly singu-larly graceful. BEETLE-BACK IS NEW. Smart is only a weak expression wiien P is used to describe the light wraps and jackets to be worn by the fashionable fash-ionable woman of early fall. These garments are more masculine than ever and from the rounded cutaway we have drifted toward a design that shapes off so suddenly at the waist line in front and is so pointed at the back that you wonder that it is not called the "ladies dress suit jacket" instead of the beetle-back. beetle-back. A great deal of gray is still seen only in new shades, one of the newest and prettiest being nickel. Nickel gray is a soft dull color of subdued tones, specially adapted for wear with plaids because it harmonizes so well with all colors. Although, it will be a few weeks yet before the new fall jacket designs are worn, many' of them are displayed in the fashionable shops. The beetle-back fits the figure like a glove and has the seams strapped and stitched in tailor fashion; in fact, it is tailor-made. The points reach half the length of the skirt at the back and are trimmed with small fancy buttons. Small sleeves are fitted in these beetle-back coats that bell over the hands in sharp points, front and back. The collar is round and the coat is lined with brilliant satin. Warning to Gum Chewers. Dr. Reynolds, Commissioner of Health of Chicago, says gum chewers ought to take warning by the fate of Miss Lettie Stutsman, of Goshen, Ind., the muscles of whose face are paralyzed from constant con-stant mastication of gum. The dispatch announcing Miss Stutsman's trouble was read with great interest my many. " ' - I j Dr. Har kett. one of Dr. Reynolds' as- i I sistants, said that gum chewers who I overstrained their masticatory muscles j might gain one advantage they would ' j be able 'to whisper in their own e:irs. I While Dr. Reynolds said this might be j an advantage, particularly among high school girls who are fond of w hispering j secrets to themselves arid each other, the benefit would be more than otit-j otit-j weighed by the contortion of the visage. vis-age. "'I have known many serious troubles resulting from the chewing of sum." said Dr. Reynolds. "Families have parted, part-ed, beauty has been destroyed and pocketbooks depleted through the gum habit. I never heard before of a case of paralysis, but I know a man who gut il broken leg through gum chewing. ! Some devotee of the stuff left a moist i piece of gum on a door step which I rolled away from under my friend's ' foot and he fell down. The fate of I Miss Stutsman ought to be an awful j warning to the high tvhool girls of, Chicago." j Seasonable Sreakfast Dish. An English exchange gives a formula for a breakfast dish that is seasonable at the moment. Choose six tomatoes of an equal size, cut off the top (not the stalk end), and partially remove the pulp: lard the top with strips of narrow bacon t form a wall round each tomato. to-mato. Drop into every one a lump spiced butter, then a raw egg. Lid the top with a skinned, blanched and stalked mushroom, which has been dipped into heated butter. Set the tomatoes to-matoes side by side in a buttered dish, between them arrange six kidneys that have been skinned, blanched and dipped into heated butter. Season the whole with pepper and salt, and screen it with fine bread crumbs. Place a plate upon the top of the dish and set in a good oven. Serve immediately. HOUSEHOLD HINTS Potato Balls Season highly one pint of mashed potatoes with salt, pepper, chapped parsley, butter and a little milk or cream. Beat one egg: add a little of it to the potato. Then form the potato into balls. Place them on a buttered but-tered pan and brush them over with the remainder of the egg. Put them in a hot oven and remove them when a golden brown, or dip the balls in beaten egg. then in bread crumbs: put them in the frying basket and fry in deep fat to a golden brown. Steamed Apple Pudding Make a biscuit bis-cuit crus't with one pint of flour, two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one cupful of milk, one-half of a tea-spoonful tea-spoonful of salt and two level table-spoonfuls table-spoonfuls of butter; fill an agate pan two-thirds full of sliced apples, sprinkle over some granulated sugar and a little nutmeg or grated lemon, rind; roll out the dough on a floured board, wet the edge of the pan. lay the paste over the apples: cover closely with a. pan that will rest over the edge of the crust; place the pan on an asbestos mat on the back of the range to keep the apples ap-ples from burning; cook in- this manner for two hours; when ready to serve put a large round plate over the pan: invert in-vert them: this will leave the crust on the plate and the apples on the top; serve with lemon sauce. Lemon Sauce Stir or cream two level tablespoonfuls of butter, add one-half of a cupful of powdered sugar; beat one egg very light, add it gradually to the butter and sugar and the grated rind and juice of one lemon, a dash of nutmeg and one-half of a cupful of boiling water. Beat the sauce thoroughly, thor-oughly, put it in the double boiler, stir constantly until very hot, but do not boil. Angel Food The. whites) of eleven eggs, one and one-half cupfuls of gran-uJated gran-uJated sugar, one cupful of pastry flour; measure after being sifted four times: one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, tar-tar, one of vanii'la extract. Sift the flour and the cream of tartar together. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Beat thp snfrar with the eggs, 'and add the flavoring and flour, stirring quickly and lightly. Beat until ready to put the mixture in the oven. Use a pan that has little legs at the top corners, so that when tlhe pan is turned upside down on the table, after the baking, a current of air will pass under and over it. Bake in a moderate oven. Do not grease the pan. J Chocolate Filling Melt four ounces of chocolate: dilute it with three table-spoonfuls table-spoonfuls of milk, and then add a cupful cup-ful of sugar mixed with a well-beaten egg, and stir until thickened. Cream Filling Beat well together the yolks cf five eggs, one-half cupful of sugar, and one heaping tablespoonful of corn starch: dilute it with two cupfuls of boiling milk, and stir it over the fire until thickened: then remove, add the flavoring, and let cool. Nuts or cocoa-nut cocoa-nut can be used with' the cream filling. fill-ing. Devil's Food Cake Two cupfuls of brown sugar, two egg?, one -half cupful of butter, one tablespoonful of soda dissolved dis-solved in one-half cup of sour milk (or it can be made, if preferred, with one teaspoonfuil of baking powder and sweet milk); one-quarter cake chocolate choco-late grated and idssolved in one-half cup of boiling water; three cupfuls of flour. Bake in a long, shallow pun or in two square layer pans. Ice with chocolate or white icing. Bread Cake Take a piece of raised bread dough large enough for one loaf. Mix into it one tablespoonful of butter, one cup each of sugar, raisins (stoned) j and currants, one-half teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon, cloves and allspice. all-spice. Let it rise, which will take some time, and bake the same as brea'L Cover with icing flivored with vanilla. HINTS ON BEAUTY. Bay rum and alcohol and other volatile vola-tile liquids of that class are exceedingly exceed-ingly drying, and should never be used on the skin except when combined with oils in the proper proportions. Try cucumber cu-cumber milk. One will be amazed to see how soft and smooth it will make the complexion. For light hair that is thin, oily and bountifully besprinkled with dandruff, we suggest a shampoo made by beating beat-ing up the yolk of an egg to a gclden froth, adding one teaspoonful of borax, three dror3 of ammonia and a cupful or two of good siids made of a pure hygienic soap, unscented preferred. Rub all through the hair and scalp, and then rinse with plenty of running water, the bath spray being the best means. The druggist who tells you that it would cost $10 'to fill a satchet powder is "an humorist." $ When scars are deep, and the tissues have been completely destroyed, there is no way of removing them. Orange flower skin food will plumpen. the cheeks if applied diligently and correctly correct-ly with a round-and-round kneading movement. Take a dessert spoonful of olive oil in a little Burgundy before each meal. It will help make one fat. For the benefit of those who ask the recipe o? cucumber milk, it 1s here given: Oil of sweet almonds, two ounces; fresh cucumbers juice, boiled, eight ounces; white powdered castile soap, one-fourth ounce; essence of cucumbers, cu-cumbers, three ounces; tincture of benzoin, ben-zoin, from fifteen to twenty drops. Get the juice by slicing cucumbers three large ones will do and boiling in a very little water. Do not peel. Let simmer until mushy, then strain -f f T t - ' ' combining the i quantity of alcohol. ' eUence. add the juice then the ,,,, most drop by drop, shaking '"'cis;..,:. ailv. and lastly the Shake well in large bottle for minutes. If put togetner earele,iy ti lution will not assimilate me,,.,-the me,,.,-the oil and waters will separate. ;:; the freshest, purest ingredients. I, t out for the cheap imitation oil ,.t swe. i almonds, which is often poisonous t, delicate skins. Latest Jacket Basque. No outer garment is more satisfactory satisfac-tory than the snug jacket basque that can be worn as an entire w-aist. or with a separate vest front, if so pref-rred. The stylish model given is in the f.nosr: approved style for early fall, and is tuiited alike to the entire suit of .-!! h or cheviot, or the plain-col. u-ed jack r basque may be worn with a skirt of check, strir.es or plaid. The ni.iPTi.d is bro'adcloth. in a warm .-hade of tan, and the jacket basque forms part .-f a costume made by a leading tailo.-, whiie with it is worn a full v.-t ; white silk, over which a stock unl jabot of chiffon are worn. InnuiiiTal'l-equally InnuiiiTal'l-equally good combinations can b- b -vised from, other contrasting materials. The loose fronts are adjusted over snug linings. The backs are fitte.l with extreme care, and foilow the m"sc correct outlines of the figure. Th--small, tight s'beves are up to date, buc not uncomfortable, as are thoe which, lit too closely, and the rolling collar and revers. which are self-faced and ft itched, give a final touch of smart- ; ness. |
