| Show 1 SCENIC GRANDEUR J OF GUATEMALA J I T Travels of m Young Expedition In n Central Wayward Mule Mora Rules Ruins 2 Guatemalan y 2 cry oPy Above tho Clouds j f Y M M o N e anio fo Guatemala April 3 tuna Saturday morning March on the trail tran again ere we ITe we ascended Cn t river tares we o IJ Bleep the ht Da Dalie fire lve hundred feet Ceet and u mid came cameo lie IJ hill fur tur ot the road One of ot these o a th the e Iran II a short cut to ozo no but witch h one we were not pear pol Iva Luckily on nn Indian hut but was near n ud fr m a little l 1 boy oy who watt was no BO noa a h he could hardly talk wo we K earned J that 1601 our o rond ron was on the left lect sad and This Thu was unfrequented very ery and scarcely s arcel passable for tor ant antal all al but we w e jo to try It as ns nse ase uld U at least three e tire urel mutes ore er sure tooted footed II itt a n ent an ao we WI had hall no mc u Iran from n the thc narrowness s ot a iao tho thod to toad ad d T e trail led alone tho sIde of ot ft n 1 sometimes e a thousand feet rv v o t Sl Ids U bIll bloc river rIer r er below and at ot other IS m d n W nearly to cane tho stream planta t pu ed several little planta plantain plan tn 1 no in IW saw maw aw ho Indians Indiana crush K 4 g ih the the cane with wooden woodell roller anti and tin In oxen for t r motive power The 1 he cane calle by b the workmen on their eaks from the field leki to the tho mill and andIn I r panda panela In the same way from the tho K 10 the market four a I tits mice of ot three or tour four days travel SCENIC f Another M steep P Ill hill ot of a II thousand feet Ceet axed the of ot our animals as lIS lISell fell ell eli as our own Oln for tor wo we 0 nil all walked WIll ked h he sun was very ery er hot and not act ft a breath f r air us VU astir At times I feared an n stroke but with no JIO more Inure incon lenience e than a profuse nd cd tired limbs we ue reached the top hat a beautiful view Mew Jew presented Itself G miles j ava aw af on the very ery brink of ot a n WJ war the town with Its hurch hur h und and a II little chapel both on eminent hills hili Below us ran tho the river giver white h te and blue The little lit lie nb alias we hail had ha pasted passed d could coul J be bc a seen and I Ei lt sw ty Wine ravine were banana lactations There the great preat mountains Ion en n thousand feet teet high were wen on both tides kits Ide ant and covered with vegetation and andes tees es from base to summit t Even BIen wo we 0 f ho are ore neither r artists nor poets could coul 1 nor such a picture At eleven ic eve 0 reached the tho lon wn and anti camped cam eil under un tr some sorno wide wide rowing reading on a 1 ditch bank tills this Ide de Many Ian women were washing lathes other In the stream am and anil a n number of or We the children len whose hoir w clothes were evl ally In th n ash were nere ere playing on tho the rk Our 4 appearance created no little 11 stir for tor seldom visit these purls parts and the tho women hurriedly slipped 1 on ft II Jacket or 01 threw a 0 shawl around them us they were dressed or rather lacked dress more Inore for tor convenience than for tor looks A stroll around the tho town revealed the tImo fact tact that scarcely anything e could be he had The ho market hour was passed and thu tho venders vendors had Hut we wc succeeded fu In getting some somo meat a few Cell tortillas and n a bunch of or or corn dough from Crom ruin which wo we make a e gruel ruel Brothers Wolfe anti and Henning and I had como comae on ahead of at the tho packs to look out a It camping cam pInco and amid nd secure teed feed and when the packs came In we wo were all surprised to discover that t my loose looe mule m le was wan missing Several times the animals had hall gone Jone oft oil Into bypaths 1 and some had ben been all but lost In the tha thick thinly hrush and und weeds wands i Thin The inns ruin had succeeded In getting j lust lost but Just i t where whre iio no one knew After Arter a n hurried lunch Brother hemming and I started hack Tho Jhc others were wera to proceed on tho the comma real and we were ere to over take them near Todos Santos or Hue o THAT WA MULE We enquired about our mule of or every ever Indian we wo met stet but Invariably tho the no hay would be given Some of ot them then had Ind como come tram from torn the Tierra hot lands and had hail therefore been on an other road rand These were carrying carping heavy loads loada of or corn or on all their backs bacha fastened with a n strap over their head heal In to such u n way that time the principal weight rests on the head A hundred to a hun bun dred Bred and fifty pounds is III a II load and often otten these are aro carried for It a weeks Ick travel and over the tho very cry roughest t country At last we tact met n a man coming along our road but he had not lIot seen the time mule nude Enquiry at nt the little cane came plantations as we passed brought the same Slime answers I began to suspect nod and seeing some animals of or the horse kind down don In n a pasture below b loV the cane fields asked my companion to go down nod and look there at thorn therm tout hut our mule was not Continuing our way back we reached about sundown the hill hili where the road forked Corked and nod finding a n woman In III the tho hut but enquired o 0 of her No hay ha was the reply renly Descending the hill we lIe soon lIoon came to our former camp ground and enquired of or the people Ilea pie near by b but no one olle had seen neon the mule We Wo returned to the tho top of or the hill and as the line was vas good mid and water valer handy hand determined grass to camp for the night Across the tho little lItle hollow were several Indian huts and word was svgs sent SAnt to them asking about the animal but no one had seen un animal wh other oth r than those any uny In Ini i MAGNETISM IN HANDSHAKE M s sr fa i c r w t I t f t t a vif 1 fir eM i qA a aI I 1 p e t r cal caln s n h hyet yet yetA A great feature of ot the trip President McKInley Is making to tho the Pacific coast will be lie the number of ot hand shakes hak s he will be bo obliged oblige to make In tho the above ahoe enthusiastic picture Private Secretary Cortelyou Is s to bo bu seen Been smiling at nt time the reception accorded his imla genial s chief Such scenes will be ho common the tho Pacific coast common nil alt along the tho route of ot tho the big trip to I I our train I thought the Indians began to suspect no nome mi other purpose on our part or else elso they the had hac our mule In hid lug ing In for tor they the appeared nervous and frightened and Into Int the tho house housu at our approach to buy tortillas Hut But we unsaddled nud ami turned our animals to feed and Just us ns wo we 0 were discussing the time situation and wondering what to do next or where to go as ns several paths in to different directions led lell off oft the main path flath to our surprise and delight the lost mule lOule Came borne walking slowly out of or a n thicket of or brush and mid joined our other animals rho The questions we e Were asking ourselves were lIere now nose answered and I 1 think our standing among the tho Indians strengthened tf J I least their standing stand tog Improved In their estimation for tor here hen at the forks of or the trails the mule little was waR last seen and as the tho teed feed was wai good had perhaps not gone gono a n I hundred yards during the day Vo We 0 were up at nt daylight next morning I after an almost sleepless night Sleep less because of or the bright moonlight the ime t strange circumstances that sure sur surrounded rounded ua us and the fife pestering of tit somo sorno small gnats gents that were welo flying Hying about It was the tho first time wo son had ever over felt gnats after otter dark Mosquitos liens and other othor similar Insects here have robbed us of o sleep but usually gnats have satisfied themselves by b the time time dusk approached Not so this night Perhaps however the tho bright moonlight for It was In the tho clear at of ot mountains mountain almost as bright as day lillY misled them They Thoy ceased troubling us when the tho moon set setTo To avoid the tho steep mountain and to 0 see set as much of ot tho the country as liS possible we ue determined to go po by way of ot San de Our trail was a u go one OM though at times steep and rough ro lh We Wre passed some Rome beautiful lit tle tJ valleys In which Indians are aro living sometimes s a I family faintly sometimes several u families und and un 1 at nt one ono place quite Quito a 11 lit tie lie village Everywhere l at our ap al children ran from coin us and even evert the grown people were timid White people dressed as we were dressed sel dom travel 1 In ht these parts At nine after following down dowl a 11 steep canyon for tor a n I league or so we wo entered en tho time most beautiful of ot all the little val leys It contains about two thousand acres of at land The hills surround lug ing It were somewhat rolling und and were cultivated by time the Inhabitants to corn The valley alley e was covered with whim a n thick growth of ot grass gross as ns high as our heads except the tho few acres nores planted to ba nanas llanas The green grass and canes calleR tempted oils OUI animals and we eve turned them loose to feed for tor an nn hour lOm RUINS HUINS rib d i Here lIere were some ruins In which wo we were II ro Interested They consisted o ot of mounds of or rock and dirt sonic some largo large and others smaller Some Somo wore wire bro long ionic lon fifty feet teet amid Iao K know two two ran ran parallel The Time natives Know of ot then only ani tout they ey hall boa always boon been there and lIll t that hat they were urt very ancient It was quite 1 plain I In n out our opinion that tile the In date with the mounds WI hail hul hullie seen farther b Wane lie n back bael here lIere lUll valloy within n tow Other l The too toe could produce good corn corll for foi mil ea There re Is no j canon lention why u large argo city could not nol have existed here hero A 1 tow few leagues further over cr a II steep steen mountain of or six hundred fee Ceet et brought BUM us to the tho valley or of San follow tollo following III ing up which for tor n a league we reached the town herb the tho country countr na solid anti grand Tito Ilio were high and steep mho tho ravines anti level or comparatively cO level 1 o found amidst this steepness toomie and tin on o these thes houses and fares of ot com corn or cane calli San Antonio III built buill on II a la place of oC time the available land would UIO n thoUM Itis It 19 on tho side ot of the mountain bottom lot ot time the n urn tWo thousand tho and thin tho top tOI ot of the surrounding Ita sea Irel l In about RI fee teet part ot of Zhu thu lire are Quiche but hul there are re a n few tew of ot the ino I U nt r the h TI The o J mire are r known k wn no as nit nl there ere Is not Il a In g between V the GUATEMALAN GUATE HOSPITALITY A couple of ot hours rest refreshed usand us usand and at 1 30 we proceeded around time the side Bide of ot the mountain II bout about a thou thousand sand or fifteen hundred h feet feu above II oe tm hc the creek creck The Tho mountain was coveted with oak trees mine of at which would matte malIC good goul lumber Across the canyon were pines Thero was WIlS but little underbrush and no A league lenue and II at broad VIA might tits to nile or bron leading to the list T ThIs Flue hl we follo followed wed The TI was wall was beautiful J Just n ahead of or us ten miles away way 11 was the tightest highest mountain In Guatemala not the tho highest peak Almost ImmediatelY below us ran a n creek neck lost at nt t tines times In the overhanging trees At the head cad of ot the valley valloy standing on onu onu u II hill hili was the little village o with Its large larso white while church We reached leached time the village go at nt 3 O Its lis Inhabitants Inhabitant were all nil allI Indians Indian I II nL some seine of ot whom however could speak Spanish and amid a we eve learned that a n little further on was waR n a tram front whom when we might obtain accommodations for tor the tho night The gentleman whoso whose name was sous Felipe Garcia Aguallo was very ery pleasant and ancl very hospitable le We lVe were made Iliade to feel fe lat at homo home nt at once nod and aMour our animals were well mired cared for tor by IJ the We Wc saw SUI Immediately that helm Don Felipe was a n sugar Rugar and coffee planter Perhaps acres of ot cane surrounded the house anti and nd a n few Cel thousand coffee trees were partly hid hidden hIdden den by a It banana orchard The coffee plants lank do better be Iter In the shade strode and as bananas Lamanna bananas grow rapidly and me are easily handled they the are ore neatly planted for tor shade in preference to trees Wo We saw no sugar mill but learned later inter that by accident It hind had burned down and a anew I anew new ono one ur had not yet et been built It would not take long to build one ono for tor the house consists merely of ot n thatched shed died on posts Under this tho lie rollers are placed on solid foundations and a I apiece piece from Crom them diem Is the pan Ilan to boll tho the s juice With this crude machinery so u rich Is the he cane that thaI ho he lia ha has produced na as high a as al ten lull tons ton of ot from uno micro acre At present his litH sugar pays pa better I than coffee and Is as sadly worked Hut but formerly when Ih coffee corree w was high It brought more Inore for tor the th outlay ills 1111 cot cof fee te U is to Guatemala and thence snore U Is I exported but bUl the sad and th the tire ere re sold old in local markets marietta The fhe gentleman proved 11 to be an 1111 en I over hits hla country Guatemala to tu him was the time ht best t country in III the world though he hI did not Intend bv by IJ tills remark to tf discount the tho United State litotes lUll teM or r Mexico or In fact tact any allY other coon coun try We 1 e were until well long Icing l n utter after bed lied time line in listening to him on I IJ the history present standing nod and cal l I und and commercial features of or hl hi hla country COUll tn We found hint him intelligent and well punted posted not alone nn on Guatemala I explained that I desired to the this of oC this the I Lake iko Izabal hallal and Puerto Barrio river Ii It Is a 1 beautiful country said our host halt enthusiastically en with large rich valleys and mountain Hod ered with fine One timber anther much nuch of or which co Is valuable wood There U Is I good goal en co n aw age J nl also allO o and In Imi In my opinion the i lIon of at the now MOW corn com being coni con Y will open up many mall ties lies for tor men to make good fortunes fortune The Th cf ht iii continued will pro lag Inc duce almost anything and everything In abundance silo 1111 It will be a good nood place pIneo to I In URn rY rv good place to 10 establish coffee coree V planta ne at rubber plantations chocolate chO te l plantations plantation Fruit or geese nn an of or nil all kinds hinds I that grow gro In a It Worm warn climate ot o grow there If It you yell volt that country n a ayou you rou will never want waitt to leave leale It again II age he finally said n WANT 1 TION 1 s sn n II We Wo learned also from our host that tHit In the t ht of ot n there In Is much good goal country countr stilt still urine What we Ie need nelll now no more than any an n thing thin else In Guatemala continued our nur host Is IA emigration Every m unity Is IB offered for tor colonization and nn Ni that too 00 in one of ot the time i richest client In le What people would Guatemala pre s fer ter fer we asked flAked Any n good Industrious people would woud ad e be bo welcome Of Ot course COIlle we are nil all ac ne with American push and nd time a American would Weald bo LI us liS welcome an as |