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Show EATING IS THE BIGGEST INDUSTRY IN BUENOS AIRES (Copyright, 10111, by Public I.cducr Co.) s . 5j x. JRa "-,- w . vatt. if, K r ' , w , i interior of tns Jockey Club, Buenos Aires L'uied m the bmithfield style, tongue, i-oast besf, game, delicious Argentine uate in the form of castles, meat jellies, ftuffed egirs, salads and relishes. The waiters bring assortment after assortment, assort-ment, displaying fiambre to the cold eye of the sated Argentine and heaping his plate until he eavs ''Bastante!" Being a Latin, he can eay ''Bastante!" silently, with his left little hnger or right eyebrow. Vi g.-;' j&s&zit A y!VC-l V4?"-.."-'--; -va cuted in the Smitlsfteld styl (v,) J Cv;i !'oast besf game- delicius xr) L1- fJx ' MvJ' ' nate in the form of castles, m f ' 'A"' stuffed egirs, salads and relis ft -"O A A I ' waiters bring assortment aft , i''''1! . , j - ment, disrjlaymg fiambre to th ' Lk ' - - I S? j of the sated Argentine and hi : V- 1 I ' plate until he eavs ''Bastante!' .. , ' aSvv I ' ' '"f Latin, he can eav ' Bastante! 'rV V A ' with his left little hnger or 12 wo on 7 cwK ' '- '-',v r - f . -1 s..' ' ' - -4Hf(: rpHE Buenos Aires waiter was frying to - make out his newly arrived Yankee customer, and the latter floundered in the deep water of beginner's Spanish for the first time. . There was a difference of language, yes. But the real difficulty lay in difference of viewpoint concerning eating. 7or the Yankee, ordering a light lunch, New York style, wanted one simple dish, En entree, with a bit of salad, and then a sweet and coffee. Which as lunch is absolutely unthinkable in Buenos Aires sbsolutemente! The lankee wanted to snatch a bite to eat and get back to business. But the Buenos Aires idea 15 just the other wav round to do a little business and then get back to eating. In eavs of yore the gourmandizing capital of the world was unouestionably Berlin, where the population started in the morning with several breakfasts, first frcm the fingers, then reaching the "fork breakfast" and mingling business with meals and lunches aril day until far into the night, when business was happily hap-pily outdistanced and eating prevailed. . Buenos Aires now has very good claims as the capital of a new League of Gourmets, Gour-mets, first because its eating habits are strikingly like tnose of Berlin, and, sec-ondlv, sec-ondlv, because, as the gateway of one of the greatest food-producing regions in the world, with only the surface of its ., rich soil scratched, it stands the best chance of being a permanent capital. The Yankee wanted an entree and salad and a sweet. which is Argentine idiom for eiy small. To the Argentines, however, fiambre is only the beginning of a meal. Then come soup, fish, spaghetti, a hot-meat course, a vegetable course served alone, with chicken later, followed by a sweet and coffee and a cordial. The soup is no dishwater affair, but a .delicious mixture of several well-cooked vegetables or a thick cream soup. The fish is not the scrap of tasteless flounder filet served at a Kev.r York banquet, but one of the local fishes of the Rio Plata, cooked whole, v.hich the waiter brings in, cutting filets on the spot. The spaghetti is invariably called "taglievini," and is usually made fresh from Argentine wheat and perhaps colored green with spinach. The meat may be a delicious casserole dish, followed by a single vegetable as a slight interruption of the steady flow of meat, and then comes the chicken, which calls for description all by itself. Only when the sweets are reached does the bill-of-fare begin to break down, for pie and ice cream and like desserts are not common in Buenos Aires, and the "duke" is often replaced with cheese or fruit. TT7HEN the Argentine does not feel par-' par-' ticularly hungry, and would lunch on a single dish, he orders a "puchero." The Spanish word means a glazed earthen pot or the meat boiled in such a pot, but "puchero galiino,1' slices of salt pork sections of savory little Spanish sausages, sau-sages, potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, slices of winter squash, cabbage, rice and garbanzas, or Spanish chick-peas. In the restaurants thee are boiled separately sepa-rately and arranged on the platter, but true puchero is one made at home, with all the ingredients cooked together. The Buenos Aires restaurateur not only understands chicken more intimately than any other host in the world, but has an admirable frankness concerning the bird. Chicken is simply chicken with us, whether it be rooster or hen, and regardless re-gardless of age. But a young chicken on the Euenos Aires bill-of-fare is always . . .. "polio," or pullet, and the more mature bird is frankly listed as "gallina," or hen. Like the Jew, who long ago settled this question of good chicken in his Mosaic law', the Argentine will buy chicken only on the hoof the live birds are freshly killed for the table and cold-storage poultry is unknown. Gallina is boiled tender, while Buenos Aires polio can best be described in the words of Edouard, ar espert: 'Tt is a young chicken of either sex that never gets up until 11 a. m. and then, after taking its roll and coffee, goes back to bed again." Breakfast consists of a roll and coffee. Then there is an hour at the office and two hours for a hearty meal, during which many business places close. The Americans and British commute home to lunch, reaching Belgrano, -the Brooklyn of Buenos Aires, in twenty minutes by train. From 2 to 5 the offices are open again, and then everybody goes out to s tea, which is a real meal, consisting of - tea, coffee or chocolate, with Tiberal helpings help-ings of sandwiches and cakes. " At this meal the true son of Argentina Argen-tina really gets down to the business of eating. On Sunday people gather and devote two. hours to this function. It absolutely spoils the new arrival's dinner, but at 8 o'clock the Argentines sit down to the heaviest meal of the day and then go to . the opera or theatre, where performances seldom begin before 9 or 10 o'clock. After the show the restaurants fill again, but .' here, rather curiously, the Argentine appetite ap-petite balks. The restaurants of Buenos Aires are many and of a surprisingly good character, with plenty of middle-class places where well-cooked food is served at C-Vi) reasonable prices. Like the . r restaurants of Paris, there, seem to be none of the m on- . strous establishments for spoiling good food so com- mon in the United States and England. But Buenos Aires " is not in the least cosmopoli- :.: . V tan. It has innumerable es- "" ' tablishments where its com- ,--' bination of French, Italian and. Spanish eooking are ail v s" pretty much alike. The cabaret has not yet reached Buenos Aires, and :. perhaps never will, for it is I hard to imagine the Argen- i tine gourmet interrupting the many courses of his lunch or '"""V dinner to rise and dance a rrv"-" foxtrot. The business day of Buenos 7 Aires is arranged with eating eat-ing first and business secondary. sec-ondary. The rising hour is late, 9 to 10 o'clock in the morning, because the Argentine Argen-tine capital is truly an all-night all-night town, with restaurants filled at 2 a. m., an hour when New York, though widely advertising ad-vertising its midnight frolics, is safely abed. The day winds up with tea, coffee, chocolate, wine or liquors, accompanied by just a bite of delicatessen. The Argentine is then willing to eall it a day, and quit and it has certainly been some day in a gastronomic sense from 10 o'clock in the mo'rninc until 1 a. m. y- ?iy f ; t phwjMyyA fr ft ' , SX i ' ss -f?r':: seldom bej " t;- f, f " f. . ' 1 YX J W the show 1 H I . V. A f - here, rath yyy y "xA s1 r x v ' ; ; 11) If , ?M"' y h-- J i l-' - ir o fM.i! in ,y(y: i . - - v v v p v ' A litAA AAA-r" ' SVL Jt i A v'i Ad-fZZA Ar - , .?' A '4sA Mti: ?krP ? r jkr--i ;n :aaaj , - y i . - vkf i MJ iHT'-i - y, -J ,. ' :- y 7 hattne Isuenos Aney wiijtur cuaaid-ers cuaaid-ers a lunch is something like this: First the "fiambre," or cold meat, the indispensable overture to evry Buenos Aires meal. This is striking;;; like the l-nltpsneissen" of Berlin, whore fifty cold UNt ui wuenua niicdc modern hotel: dishes decorated the entrance ot every restaurant, fish and lobsters frozen in blocks of ice, color effects of caviar and mayonnaise, egg and sausage, pate and cold meat, and three waiters appeared on one side and four on other, each bean-tig several dishes on his arm, and heaped your plate until you said "Alzo!" The Buenos Aires array of fiambre is somewhat simpler, but includes delicious slices of breast meat from the juiciest hirl:ov in Hie world, then shavings of ham Had the American ordered simply fiambre and then paid the check it would have made an ample lunch, but the waiter would have concluded that he was a poor man and felt sympathetic, and apologized in bringing the check, smilingly smil-ingly protesMng "Muy chico, senor." the Argentine puchero is more on the order of a super-New England boiled dinner. Even when ordered for one person, per-son, the waiter brings it on an enormous platter, with the different ingredients carefully arranged. . It consists of boiled beef, supplemented bv boiled chicken in a |