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Show pi AND SELLING SHOES . By FREDERIC J. HASKIN - -- - Bw been making and wearing ho of some sori; lor uK' f rcar, but the shoe ! Jt is known today is not yet aW', .old. and bears the stamp iHtf'V S A." The shoo fan-fcaW?Jnhi fan-fcaW?Jnhi country arc rolnciug Hf nth rear, valued at about Sfnno T)ic hides of fori mil-ilMg' mil-ilMg' including calves, of fifty Lr iStc and of many otner am-IHL am-IHL ma'le into shoes every year imtnean fartorios. qiinntitics of thesc'shocs Irted the home trndc consumes h- "renter portion. The shoes in fho United States and worn in the. habits of wearing Vr be as marked as the mi th'' processes of making 1 the methods or" selling them. rat Shoo and Leather I arkct-b arkct-b held in Chicago the last upu?t t'bc RM0C business of world will bn centered, and rk there ""ill be such buying e uf stocks of shoes for use and abroad a? has never lnvn fore. res? year a groat Shoe rld "s Fair will be held on the ' the Charlci river at- Cam-'af., Cam-'af., at w,hieh exhibitions of . I'hoe making will he .added irkct-fn;r feature, moriwn invasion of England br the. sboomakers, and the, rtyle and fit of the America u-jci u-jci has forced th English ur?r to adopt Anvriean moth- 1 cchie of American shoes soui od increased from 42 1 ,000 to ) in fifteen years Efforts are 2 made to cxlcnd the Arneri-i Arneri-i trade into Latin-AnitTion. t journals are publishing spoons spo-ons in Spanish an71 Portugese. 1 ghoe increliant may have the I ices of a translator to eon-South eon-South American corresron-lie corresron-lie advertises in these editions. I t'o interest A'merionn innnu-d in the Latin American trade j 1 n rendv responso among Hie i , ami the admitted superiority ois mad-' m the United States : tbo trade. r j jc trade, in Central and South countries is rnther a difficult j bicatiic the climate is warm j rgc proportion of I ho. lower I i barefooted except on Sund.'j ial occasions. Looking upon i luxury rather than a neecs-c neecs-c people wput a, showy look-le look-le and go in for looks ratlw-r fort or durability. European I in this market; are extreme- Tm American manufactur-h3rdly manufactur-h3rdly turn cnt such pour ijtven if'he wanted to. The na-ii. na-ii. Ui no idea about select ing shoes : tu and they prove so iinc.omfoi- "tiat he wears thorn as little a.5 Vj iiu It is a common sight lo see. m of people returning from church ( A, rwcial gathering carrying their j 1 iln Ihcir Iinnds. The Chinese nls" , 1 twy flimsy shoes, generally with 'J r.ioles. It " i told that, in a gionr t years ngo a rebel army would f victorious but for a sudden j !orm, which causcl the entire be-';, be-';, K force to retire in utter rout Jthpsoldicrs were afraid of niin- jjMtatfhuscM; leads all .other Stai.en making of shoes.' The first 4Bfttrj came to Massachusetts and Ski. and followed ihoir trade aft-W aft-W fashion of some thousands of Ljlw&fi, eacli man making shoes and TflRfronr beginning to end. A few ljwfeforc the Boston toji party, a IvBMn named John Adam Dagvr lASfttlie nucleus pi', a slioo factory JBw., s city which has ever since center of the shoe industry. JW l' e work was distributed r Bin"1' mpu l,nipi.ved Ijy rhe own-' own-' 'n fho work was done by liand umr were all sewed'. The tAW" the uppers was turned over women and the cost, of produe-J,fcr."y produe-J,fcr."y elwapened. So successful ""ff!11 bfnd factory work becomn the ton venr: between .1790 -W Lynn produced 300,000 pairs annuiilly. The Avoodon shoe invented in t IS 12. and eight 7W!aki tile pegs were made 'by "B't- Still shueinaking was a :wBt1n TTorknwn in a factorv had iW)" a,)0U, J":i,;ill!:r ;"1I i,ulsl' H K"Mtinn from a iraio to an JBScamo bftween l50 and 1SG0. ' jLK"r',n,r0P of 11 "''"'line to cut, ' of rollers and splitters, and ' :rppnnt nf all. the ev.ing ma , m sliuemaking a n'W thing. 1 I ; The factories increased their products ho per5 cent during the ten prosperous years preceding the civil war. But .much of the shoe was still made bv j "and, only the simpler proccses be" , in" entrusted to miichjnerv. Uvorv 1 body snid that there were some things about a nhoc that a machine could1 never make. As Inte as lSJIi only 1 I uftecn years ago. the :d"naohusett i mannfacturerf declared that thov need ' never fear Western or Southern eom- petition, because s much of the shoe must be made by hand and th?re -was not a sufficient number of skilled la-I la-I borers anywhere but iy Mmsachu- , , setts. Since that time ihe shoemaking maeliinery lias lieon so improved and developed that successful shoe facto I rios may he operated anvwbore if there is rnonoy enough to build n plant rleaee th machinery and hire Some j workerb. ' .rust here comes in one of i,h,e great problems of the shoe business. The J shoemaking machincrv is controlled 1 j by one concern, the United Shoe fa-: fa-: chmery company. Tt owns the pnt-' pnt-' entF. Without its machine? no man can make shoes in competition with ' j those who do uso them. Il' not nn!'-has nn!'-has a complete monopolv on main- wf the patents, but ma k,- a'connUion in leasing its tools that the ksee shall , not buy or rent tool and mnchinorv ' from any ofher coriKcry. Tna Legis- 1 Iaturc ot Lrassaehu?2t',3 has pr.seeT a ' bill, which becomes effective toda., ' prohibiting the imposition oT nuch con j di lions in a machir.rr l?ie. The i. liiand ii. KuglaiHs f.'r Amcri?an-mado shoes has forced the English manu-tactur.jrs manu-tactur.jrs to imitaia the AMiericau ar- , ticle, and they, too, have been forced . to come to the TTnitcd companv for ! machinery. The Eamc conditions were ! I imposed, and now a committee of the 1 I J Louse of Commons has reported a bill I aimed to abolish this t portion of the' 1 contract. Other States are oxpectcd i 1 to follow tlie example of Masaclm- ' Lsetts in this country. The Federal ' r Department of .Justice has been n- 1 quested by American shoe mannfae- ' Hirers to proceed against t his trust. ! - .1 M f Other problems which are being di , i cussed in the shoe trade world ar.' , I mostly connected with the business of ' I retailing the shoe -to the wearer. ' Leather has increased in price, labor is more exponsive. everything has gone up 111 the pat ten years. -The aorai man has bought 'his (dot lies, groceries and luxuries Jit higher juices, and all without complaint, oxoe.pt, a general ' grumble. With shoes il is diTforoiit. j Those manufacturers who maintained ' retail stores in the various cities had i made fortunes by advertising on"-prico : fdiocs. "When a general advance in cost 1 was made they found that they had ) thoir public educated to a certain qnal , ity at a fixed price, and (hero was noth- 1 ing for thorn to do but accept a smaller 1 profit or demoralize the great trade j they had established. Thev fi nail v reached Ihe point where thev either had to increase (ho price or reduce l ho quality, so that in the outcome pros pc.nty injured them almost as much as 1 it had helped other business men. m m V . On the other hand, ihe shoe retailers have some advantages over their fid lo-ivn in other lines of trade. Thev have been much more successful in their light against, the encroaehmen) of the do--partmont, store. While the great department de-partment stores of the cities sell many shoes, the shoe stores still .control the bulk of the business. There are a great many men who do not like to go into a department store. Again, people arc particular about their footwear because be-cause a shoe that, does not (it is the most uncomfortable thing imaginable. To most people it. seems more probable that a store selling nothing hut shoes will pay more atto.nl ioji to fitting Ihe fool, properly. Whatever the business or psychological reasons, if is evident that the shoe dealer is still ah;ad in the. race with the lug store that, sells everything. While the plirnse "boots and shoes" is still commonly current,- high boots are not used nearly so much, even in the country, as I hey wore a fow years ngo. St vies" are changing constantly, and witb the improvement in shoe making the demands of fashion are more insistent. in-sistent. The shoe retailors stimulate their business by inventing all sort.i of pretty and attractive shoes ' for women. " The women formerly- boii"h( shoes when they needed fhem, now thev must have shoes because they are stylish. styl-ish. The vogue of having shoes to match the color of every gown is failing, fail-ing, but milady must, needs have much preltv footwear ' l. t o For men the styles' do not Huctuate a? niueh aM thev did six or hcveu years j ago who'll one summer it was tans, the I next season black.", then tans again. Tho shoo men have tried hard to bring on a "tan fever" again, and this year have been partially successful. Tho reason why the Taney colored shoes are no I so popular now is perhaps because of the universal popularity of pateiil leathers. Several years ago the patent leather shoo was used only for dress occasions. iow it is worn all the time. The improvement im-provement in the manufacture of patent leather has boon wonderful, and while 1 tho shoe dealers will not, guarantee it. ' against splitting or cracking, oxper-' oxper-' ieneo has proved to most men that, it : is fniiiv durable. In five years flu; j production of patent leather has in-I in-I creased six-fold in quantity. The shiny I leather which is so easily cleaned and i polished has taken the country by storm. |