Show LEt I FORECAST OF FASHION What Dressmakers Have Pledged Themselves to For 1399 + J REIGN OF THE RUFFLE + L r SPRING SUGGESTIONS ALREADY IN THE AIR Collars Continue to Grow Having Already Al-ready Passed the Ear LineAn Indestructible But Eminently 1 Smart Gown That Proves Itself the Joy of the Owners life I = I Special Correspondence I New York Jan 11 Having run out i the old year the caterers of fashions follies are ringing in a number of changes if not distinct novelties What we have kept over from last year are 1 chiefly trains long tight sleeves and i high tight collars but on these things the dressmakers are going < < to exercise I I an improMng influence They are i pledged to cut every gown en train J evea the pretty muslins and dimities I i I 1 Is invariably cut in a series of seven i graceful scallops about the hips These j curves are not ornamented with anything I any-thing and in fact nfter a season of I frivolity the tailor dress is regaining I its old tidy IrnplqItyof outline I At the start of the yfcafajmihoer I of handsome new tailor frocks have been noticed and chiefly in cariwinkle blue Their waists fit back and Iront I without a wrinkle the skirj js fully trained of course and a pronounced tendency is toward renewal of what used to be known as a complete suit that is a waist and skirt and then a longisli coat of the same goods SMART JABOTS I With such costumes the elevating influence in-fluence of the smart jabot Is most keenly keen-ly felt There ore jabots and jabot but the one that now has the longest train of followers is the largest llis either a very vhde limousine ribbon folded twice about the neck and ti din d-in a really gigantic bow in front or > it is a long piece of white satin laid twice around the throat tied in a loui t inhand or Ardicy knot in front and i f letting fall a couple of laceedged ends I nearly to the 2 rees With the limon sine ribbon a collar that has turnover hemstitched bands is worn and a t > mart little pin Is thrust through the knot of the bow Butterfly bows of vhite pale blue and Nile green tulle or chllton fastenedto a stock of the tame aie I still seen broadcast among the women whose winter coats are dark and button but-ton high These airy nothings the tailors themselves hot only iccommend but make In spite of prejudice women continue con-tinue more or less to use certain types of plaid goods The Mackenzie Mac fj8fJ I I I rf 1 j f i < Jii 7a44 I Jf ¼ a f d c it t 21 i < p I V J J I j j I i r iI 1 j fff tt V l J 1 1 I li lfth < g f 1jJj f t I J af n pUI t I j 1JiI JJ1l J 4f I L ilt f i a 1It < ff J GJii1 7 f < t Sr t1 D J 1 e 1 h J7 4 y = i 1J r 1 1 t ff l I if 4Jff A r t ui It < < < IIcr JWJtj > > I 1 il i 1 i IJ < v > tlifj I r I j IJ I i J I lcT I I Q II I r AST EVSKIHG HOOD AND WRAP I and the adorable chintzes that are glorifying glor-ifying the January openings and they have sworn themselves not to make another an-other silk or cotton dress without an overskirt These draperies will at first be only the long skirts of the coatshaped dress waists such as are already seen here and there but it does not require a very prophetic soul to see that by Easter i time the fullfledged overdress will be i enjoying undisputed reign For the present it falls from the hips in what I is called peplum form to the knees in front and longer behind though the I popularity of the Louis XV fronts is I unabated The study of the tailors is I always after long perpendicular lines and nothing short and bunchy is allowed I al-lowed about the hips i SPRING SUGGESTIONS I When the time comes to discuss wash I I I Donald Forbes and Campbell checks I still brighten our landscape and the quite simple skirts are made up with a j I bias seam down the front Such skirts J j in the dark green blue and violet MacDonald i Mac-Donald plaid are purchasable at the I January sales prettily made up on 1 silk foundations and the proper thing to wear with one is a coat body of solid green blue or violet cloth scalloped scal-loped over the hips clasping the figure 1 snugly with small plaidfaced rovers < I turning back just under the chin and a j chiffon jabot flowering out on this I Absolutely simple comfortable sleeves are typical of all these dresses The i I wrist is long but cut off plainly round the hand and the one bit of coquetry t I the tailors assume is more or less decoration i i deco-ration on coats by the aid of small btil I letshaped enameled buttons These buttons by the way are peculiar to 1899 and are different from the colored i I I fF u d I ks U J 1 ji4 1m 7i t c r t f I r JMrti e Ii rL k f1 If < gr Ir r I tp r I T I j I I A iur f SI GOWH FOE 1899 I I goods it will IIP found that all reliance the longtried virtues to be laid on is T too still we are 1 of tUg raine Just now colons and furs to myclf TpccurtPo by w and shiver of cotton think Avitiu tit a velI to know that the liucMi bat It is i as v nf fashon allows a pezont JaMudr > j t dre4a wait to 1i > cut with kneeIons tails or short off at the hips V3xere a cCose has ue is adopted it j 2 1 crystal ones that are still in good fash i i I Jonable standing I j I GROWING COLLARS I If you question both tailors rand J j aie crnakers as to collars they will say that excelsior is still the cry In that direction I I di-rection Ly ccr tant wear uf very high I neckbands women are destroying all j i the b auty of their throats and giving IIi 0 J r L c 1 + i p 2 i vJ Ar r I i < 0 f I i i J rwi 7 = I I I I > i I i I II 1 Y4Iq t L t 1NP Ik1NvKP1 llW1Yi9Vk1 r i 2Y1 i f t 1 t ft 4 I 1kc f1111Y r I A SPRING SHOPPING COSTUME I their heads a stiff haughty poise A 1 i fair share of collars are made of silk I i or satin finely pleated on to the stiffest buckram and cut with points to fit high behind the ear Newer than that is a cpllar cut with the ear points andj then a third higher peak directly in the 1 back This rear peak often runs half way up the height of the head and sometimes it is split open down the center i cen-ter and revers spread away faced with a bright color or lace A USEFUL DRESS I The serviceable gown the toilet that fits into every breach and is admissable ion i-on all occasions Is still black It has an underskirt and waist of black silk that by preference is not taffeta hut I that is cut to fit and appear like a I princess slip tight on the hips and I i wide at the foot Over this falls rather I coarse black silk honeycomb Russian I net garnished in either of two ways with spangles or with three sizes of I j black silk braid The braid is rather j the smarter of the two and it describes i i large fanciful figures over the drop I net skirt and net body Such a gown i is practically indestructible and displays dis-plays a richness of effect that is always I al-ways agreeable If it is made up so that the sleeves can be removed and I the top of the waist lifted out it can 1 serve equally well as a grand dinner or sober church costume With gowns like I these and they are tremendously popular I pop-ular women wear necklaces of the brightest outfit with some jeweled I pendant string on the lowest chain and I they put tall blackspangled tulle wings in their hair The serviceable evening gown for a young girl is par excellence a Tosca net in black made over a second net skirt of pale blue or green or yellow which in turn is hung upon an underskirt nfl I I soft silk or sateen the same shuTe The black top skirt may be hung with I spangles but something more economical econom-ical as well as newer is a net skirt with designs worked out on iain threads of colored chenille I Such a dress wears well is proof I against crumpling and is wonderfully j I youthful After being squeezed into a I heavy trunk a shake dissipate the wrinkles and while the bodice may b high in the throat it must by no means I have any sleeves if it is designed fr evening wear All women who wear i these cut gowns and they are almost universally popular perfume them carefully so that at every motion the I filmy floating goods will cast forth on the air a poetic odor of lilacs white rose heliotrope or violets THE FAVORITE SPRING HAT Early in thp winter the hat that I turned up in front justly received its I due of favoritism and flattery Its successor suc-cessor in the spring will l > e an airy thing of silk muslin or tulle set on the side of the head and with a wk I spangled brim turned up on all sides I equally Already we see some lucky i women who have their headgear all hot from Paris wearing these dpl < atc glittering crowns hut meantime a great many sensible souls content themselves I with pretty tulle trifles they can easily I fashion with their own hands These i arc Very popular for theatre wear and I are made first of a ring if hat wire about the circumference of a saucer Wound tightly around this is black I satin or while satin ribbon and then loosely goes a winding of tule The tulle ring just cncirolrs the top of the I head and at come point in its circumference circum-ference usually just in front a tuft of j silver wheat with two loops of tulle j is fastened This simple ormment l passes for a bonnet and is a becoratnjr j coronet and a showy one ri ary head MARY DEAX i |