Show ii Ib1j Parisian 11oveIty I r Fur Hats thd Seasons FadWeighs Four or Five Pounds Lace Stands at Head of Trimmings For the Year rShirt Waists at TheatreThe New Boxpleated Skirts 4 i I I New York Cpt 27Furs that actually actu-ally hypnotizejthe money from a wo mans pocket In spfte of her firm resolves re-solves to withstand tfieir blandishments are now in tic full fluff of autumn beauty on all sides Never have the handsome skias been eo expensive as this year art never have they been more beautifpl and I the average conscientious con-scientious 5hl1 > per nearly falls a victim of nervous prostration in her efforts to decide whether she shall stake all her pin money oij a boa a shoulder cape or 3 great stately allembracing softly enfolding shjiwl shaped wrap Furs are endered unusually expensive expen-sive this yfear because of exceeding I i I I Silver Pox Boa elaboration They are all adorned with bronn Chiffon frills or lace covered re vers or cravats of rich ribbon and lae Tipped fox silver fox blue fox and smoked fox are the only really smart pelts for boas and it requires just two whole big foxes to compose a boa that will take precedence for smartness One huge downy beast with its head and its tail and jts two hind legs attached at-tached to its botl lies in a broad collar col-lar of comfort about the wearers neck while his mate hangs down before her his head under the wearers chin his tail hrushin the hem of her skirt i Ponderous as this may sound and heavy as it may appear such a boa isiS is-iS cosj as laiBbg wool and as light us oxtrypji fejjtJrbrS Comments equally Mattering can bSImadejri behalf of the ast bhawlshaped wraps whose point in the rear nearly reaches the skirts train andwh greatest glory lies in its wide rinnlinir rever Comely i as any of these fur things are the shoulder capes that thrifty Paris has taught our furriers to makeup make-up for young wearers Seal plush is used as the foundation of most of these a high collar is turned up becomingly be-comingly about the face and then avery very rich but comparatively inexpensive inexpen-sive decoration is achieved by bordering border-ing a Vshaped collar with two bands of mink or Alaska sable running to a point and a group of tails up the waistline waist-line or three ermine straps running over the arm connect the back and fronts of a shoulder piece and a big cravat of Paisley figured panne droops gracefully from a knot under the chin New Box Pleated Skirts In those1 happy autumn hunting grounds of theirs the shops all enterprising enter-prising femininity is agape and flut Ijcc FfI i IbtJ 4zl i wiStfeissm < Long wrap of sable faced with purple pur-ple velvet Velvet bow at throat on which is appliqued white lace of ra heavy kind A velvet piece fits like a vest inside and hooks together ter oer th skirts with boxpleated hacks There is no question that this is t new and very probably a permanent wrmkle in skirt topography and for women whose physical architecture is such that a certain amount of drapery Is quite esMTiial the triple box pleat folded narrowly at the placket and < Jo ing out wide and gracefully into the train is a boon and a blessing As the situation now stands all the matrons or the women of stately and anijil bjjild are going to adopt the box pleat while the young and the slender sister hand will enjoy one more season with the close fitting habit bak It is a fact that every gown be It ort or-t chiffon or the toughest Melton flared more than ever at the feet in front and to wear a cloth skfrt without strapped r trimming is to appear almost a generation genera-tion behind the mode Not an inch will i be 4tpared from any train be it of a fi walking or a dinner dress and on k oounrlebs cloth suits three feet of goods 1 will spread on the floor beyond the wearers heels v This is certainly to be L regretted and thfe woes of the train iveaier are increased ten fold by the modistlc law that says all skirts must r drop loose and free upon their foundations founda-tions There is not one woman In fifty c whu can In lifting her abundant dra peres raise both cloth and silk petticoats t petti-coats at once and it Is a lamentable i but common sight to see the most del J Irate of taffeta foundations trailing ignominiously ig-nominiously in the dust Heavy Hats New millinery js ponderous both 1 In fact and in appearance The usual I receipt for a smart hat calls for such j j ingredients as a velvet frame with fur binding a large manywinged bird I ample folds of panne at least one I fringed Orient Safin scarf with a pair of glittering buckler and ornaments 1 All this is whipped up with a froth of chiffon and the lesult is a revolutionary revolution-ary toque a Charlotte Corday or a Pair Incz that will tip the scales at three or five pounds The mission of women however is to suffer in the cause of beauty and the silver lining to this loud of nodding nod-ding plumes and rolls of velvet is that hats come off at the thebtres with a I s gh of rejef from every woman in the audience The only genuine danger I lurking in this weighty headgear is pletmaturely thin locks for the woman who wears her splendid fivepound structure far too many hqurs continuously contin-uously Aside from the style above referred to which after all are merely new titles for the familiar round toque the picture shape and the ever popular Spanish turban known last spring as the Donna Gonzalen a plain felt gaily bedight with embroidery done in colored col-ored silks has just come to town During the summer at the country rosorts we used to see Leghorns and chip garnished with garlands paint don d-on the straw and the adaptation of the same Idea in needlework on felt is alluringly al-luringly interesting I A huge brown felt with n wreath of autumn leaves so worked on the brim that the upper I and under sides show an equally neat finish is pretty and most appropriate I I I I I I I Combination of two kinds of fur especdally the crown is wound with a roll of ecru lace and has manufactured manufac-tured wings painted to resemble big butterfly pinions Etancinj up at one side I Lace Is the Thing Lace has scored another triumph and stands preeminent at the head of all the trimmings for the year Whole robes of Renaissance guipure cluny and Russian weave are quite as modish mod-ish as theV were six months ago and some of fheee heavy laces are interwoven inter-woven with a heavy gold or silver cord that either runs over the lace in a superimposed design of its > own or is part and parcel of the lace pattern itself it-self Whichever way it is used no words can say how richly brilliant its effect ii i and the theory and practice now obtaining is to drop a lace robe be it black or white over an underslip of raspberry red or lime green taffeta mousseline or crepe de chine Theatre Shirt Waists Last winter women found that shirtwaists shirt-waists of satin velvet brocaded silk or shot taffeta fastened with jeweled buttons and fancifully collared looked amazingly wen as theatre waists and not quite satisfied with the admirable I discovery the shirt waist makers are producing the most gorgeous theatre going garments of goldcolored green and automobile red satin the body part entirely overlaid with the newest laces and the neck adorned with a fashionable Stein lUrk cravat of l w h tk c Asablehat Hat is of seal trimmed trim-med with Velvet and two little animal heads Collar of seal fur with three straps of ermine over the arm holding hold-ing back and front pieces together Large bow of Persian velvet fringed satin yr lace This last is the shirt waist up to data and any woman who wants to make one for herself must bear in mind that the lace has its pattern sewed on to the satin body andthat the fullness of the sleeve is gathered into a close o wrist and a cuff falling Over the hand A Stein Rlrk is sixteenth century neck tie and it passes once about a high stock collar that has branching carlaps crossesat the back of the neck comes forward to the bust and is drawn to a loose Jourinhand knot upon the chest there fastened with a jeweled brooch and its ends reach in uneven lengths near to the waist line The belt that goes with this is a I narrow width of fine mixed jet and steel beads vorked in a close Greek fret pattern and coming to a sharp point In front From this point hang long strings of large and small jet and steel beads In a brilliant ftlnge that with some women drops its longest threads to the knees kneesMARY MARY DEAN |