Show z I he German Heen I By fl t BRA RR A N D 1 WH IT L 0 C CK K ends arid and ll It Is season tk-n tk tho the s D D o captains and nd t d tie Jn tangs kings s June the and the dukes duke the rt the P princes the baron rons followed to lo ts and ih lb the country If It thc they to lo their various cures c ha or home the they t remained at t r f they r And 1 it through h he their hou houses e. e d old streets tr ts that 5 Charming narrow ro e i in and tutu lurn Int Inthe In the iho lower and tWIst t 1 and life lite lifer swarmed fn people r the n n it had j Ko t on in al all ft its essentials a as for en eleven centuries the and nd deserted de the they ther ld was 8 silent wore wor up at all It Its Inthe In- In y shutters I r m the whit o ta facades ades stared pur- pur sun now no and v fA in the summer 41 a W n. n an old fiacro with a P Pter prodigious tier rattled over its cobble stones stono I ter servants Benant went in and out of or lift feat reat at doors Ej IS Brussels settled down to It its longer long Ther er son somnolence One awoke in the of oC the ther ins Ingo to the strange e cries nos r ir In Flemish I can can hear ear e even n Z the en Benen o 01 of me mean II an en an who punctually wheeled her down the rut rue de Treves cs Just as astie asHe tie tte was teas bringing up our tea andt and anti t which we wo had at an open window nee co ce over the tiled roofs across the there was a glimpse of the quad- quad on on the arch of oC the the hew leaves lea of or the trees in Parc Leopold The stout do dogs s of or riders dens den their tongues lolling patient patient- rigged their carts with the bur bur- ed milk cans ns through the streets quit y a a. do de dans 1 lhomme l'homme tle ja chien that that which Is best in fn that Is the tho dog tho the French say a f Brussels is ia hI or was full tull of or dogs doS ty t y family has hal two lo or three the tho bl big that putt pull the carts and amI the amus- amus little griffons and and sharp harp nosed black little skipper skipper- r D u il L tl iU 1111 lu IS 11 In tilt Vat t Ill nt at ai t he I j I of oC this world no more with s II palely gaiety Jalet rind and nd his Irish h wit he wit he fell at ate att e t e Dar Dardanelles Dardanelles-a Dardanelles a remark made to tome me mee ce cc e b by Torn Kettle one of the nt lIt young Irish members of the theof Ute of or Parliament n t It was years n rs oat oRl Dublin Vc Re e were sp speaking of ot a ole ohI towns town's peculiar charm and Nety Net ICet- y ith i hl his aroused amused t ta n and d t proprietary love lo of It fald Stop in Dublin threw three days day ami you Ink you ou know knots it ft stop throe three w weeks ek A l d f you OU bc begin ln to doubt stop top three rs r. and you rou realize that you OU will ver tr r penetrate her mystery m tery ow on that I have hate written tho the words word s ten n I 1 have a consciousness o of havin having g pea Bated ead ted them somewhere before dorc p per per- r- r P Ds PI in n a n book wherein I said gaid borne ome- omee tag e about the personality o of cities Pr the they ha have hac c I it t or have hl it not JUt just t individuals have hate It or have o it no noL t a e ey ate are like women In respect of or th the e and Impressionistic quality Lt is sU suggested IJ by tho the word charm r have o It or Of P. O they have have- haveit it not on one f emt t not ot know why r and I If It 01 one FC seek s or to analyze lt It to it II I Is quite quit c Mo t to am vanish h nW away r. r F fy I V own enthusiasm for Brussels wa was war y long standing J 1 I. I too in year e Jr Konc Kone Konca at a time wn when nothing wout d tie e seemed lt more Probable Improbable than th he c tJ that t i J should ever r live there hele ins my Ol lIl of or tourist I 1 to too u Baedeker Baedeker- In hand had gazed at the Grand Place and and at Ste Ste. Gudule and nd at nt the had seen een all th the sights recommended in the guide guidebook b book ok And I had caught some sense ense however inadequate of the peculiar intimate charm chirm of or that Highly high original nal personality which makes Brus Brussels unique among the cities of or the world But BUl I had not caught that glimpse Inor in Lathy any of or those Standard historic spots unless It was a before the before be be- taro fore which an any morning groups of ot English or or American tourists could be be- seen seen e n s n standing standing- ln leering at each cach other othel I in that self consciousness nc s. s with which tho representatives es of or our prurient race gape at things they consider shocking I shall shaH ne' ne never ner r forget orGe tho morning when I went into a book store in Brussels Brus Brus- sels ell and asked aked ked to be shown some som French novels the fat who kept tho the shop hop realizing at a a. a glance lance that I belonged to to to- the race that ethnologists eth eth- ethnologists assure us IS we ar art wrong wron- in Sc said Instantly chose d de shocking jion Monsieur Monsieur Mon Mon- Something shocking sir No o as I was saying it was not hot be before before be be- fore tore the monuments of Brussels that I had that first Intimation of or the city's peculiar charm It Is the thc alrh airiest lt of or memories r tn an n evening when I looked from the window indo of ot my hol hotel and saw sawa a a d of or youths and maidens In the ml mist t of gentle rain drifting drifting- gaily a I 1 Ina In Ina Ina a dance down the tho street where the lon long reflection of or the lamp lights wavered watered In the shining wet surface of or the as as- as I have ha spoken o of that scene somewhere el else e and If It it seems seem too loo trivial to repeat yet et it is Important as is a Ls 1 n implication of or that gaiety of or that Insouciance that love lo of or pleasure which has characterized the Belgian people all the way along th the sad lad jad calar calvary calvary cal cal- ar vary of or its history It Is as character character- o of t the e W Walloons Joon a as It I Is of or the Flemish and hd it persists today 03 ns stron strong 1 as In ineradicable as It was in those dead ad lays days 3 that are kept so vividly alive in the thc paintings s of or Jordaens and of o There one beholds in bright immortal colors the love eve of or the feasting and the frolic and the tho fun lun the dancing the eating and t the he drinking the coarse pha pleasure ure in which r. has found the poetical poetical cal material for tor some of or the most charming of ot his vignettes The Tle Walloons and the Flemish meet in Brussels and it Is there that is ac accomplished ac- ac accomplished that amal me which makes the Belgian Ian nation and it is from tho the contributions of oC both hoth that th thatis is ia formed torme that character which makes Brussels as unlike Paris as New ew York Is unlike San Francisco To the superficial super super- and half halt blind e eye there are of or course man many resemblances in th the tha architecture which Is generally of or the French tradition and influence save where the Spanish h touch is IR shown in inthe tho the old gables of ot the lower loner town o othe or orthe the thc German heaviness In certain buildIngs build build- ings that marked the German invasion of or lh the bellum ante-bellum days Perhaps one on of or the things that tha t makes the two cities clUes alike to the tray irav- v eler who Is always I repeating the tiresome tiresome tire tire- some banality Is Ix the fact that in both cities s the people sit oft at tables on th the afternoons and sip Ip their drinks Bu But t If IC he were to sit sll at one of ot tho those e tables l s in Brussels awhile a hu hi would begin t to note dote not merely superficial but ut Implicit implicit im Im- Im differences In tho the language e first firs t of or all that all that is if It h he w happened to know French They speak French at Brussels thus Brus s gels sels l of or course but they speak p ak Flem Flern- ish hh h too and when outside of or the Leopold they speak pak French It t IH Is apt to be a French that Is a translation trans trans- atlon lation of or Flemish modes of ot thought jo so that another dialect Is torm formed d which h de degenerates n ratel Into a savory say sav ory patois spoken n b- b by tho the the Inha Inhabitants of or that swarming quarter quarter ter which JI Jigs Jig's alon along the ru run rUf Haute and tho rue Blaes Blass below blow the hill on which t Inc no de da Justice lifts Its hea heavy and Imposing mass mallS The Tho Patois Is n a lc of ot Flemish and Walloon French and nobody outside the Marolles Mar Mar- olles urd understand it it e except the police police- policemen policemen men and detectives eU e of or the city In Inthe Inthe the thc petite tour bourgeoisie it becomes Intel Intel- li and 1 Its fine fino distinctions am are aro aref o f own in that thai charming pIn play whose fancy and humor are arc lt to be he attributed attribute d to lie Mr as its stage stae stagecraft craft Is to bo Lo accredited to Mr Ir Jules Ic Le Manage de do Mademoiselle e The Play depends for tor its s appeal on the distinction there is be bo between bo- bo tween the French and the tho Belgian be between be tween Pari Party Paris and Brussels and shows show s accurately what each thinks think of or th the e other The French have e always al made fun o othe of or orthe f the I F as all the they ha have 0 made mado fu fun tun n of or lI Jn-lI and of or Amt Americans American nf a ath as th they have e made made fun lun of everybody cr an and d c including es themselves Their Thel r wit tilt 1 I is apt to he be rather sharp Tharp with th h the e cutting quality t of or finely tempered d steel td J tl Tl Tho ty hav h wit wHo Lut but not humor the th wool does docs not Jot exist in ther Ian Ian- t at Bois w ho wf f h G 1 I Ia nr a f 1 I I t. r-t. Ire S F i r y t 1 J i r t Ih I w j Y rl Ii F FTp Tp Its r I Iii rJ 1 1 Eti I S r 1 a o oa i L s l i 1 I w o- o oi i i err v l 1 L S 1 Y 1 o co i eul Tf t it The Bi Do s that t r the C. C Carts in BR BRUSSELS r Y t v of t D t l CC r t c 1 b of Ju sti e in r cen ter t I who lost their tails as the legend 1 It ft It silting sitting on the decks of ot the theat iii at boats boals Sk I means in little skipper the i ke kc e bc bc- 1 the mho Flemish Elemish diminutive that is iB r led ed on all nn occa occasions lons to lo er e every en cn- J ring name or epithet h 0 n those mornings the ministries tr rIn In the rue de la Lot Lol were dim dint and j I 1 1 and nd half hair de deserted and the reinOs relans rein rela- ns Os between Belgium Dellum and America so 7 J Client Vent tnt that there was not often orten 1 ch to l Le e discUs discussed ed Promptly Prompt at atthe atthe the rumble of or the cl city t ceased and andry I try ry one in town lown went home to lunch lunch- j t L and sad remained until two and toro foro for tor o 0 hours the town was as still as JS j ugh it had been deserted descried Late in 5 afternoon every cry ono one went ent for tor a II II Along alons the boulevards and outI out I Avenue A Louis or drove lr drove if ho Ito had vehicle vehicle through through h the Boise de lambre la Ia lathe the 14 loveliest of or woods Or Ors Orm m COUld could s go to lo the Parc and hear u given en there at four tour by one ono or Mr it r of ot the military bands that thai played pla-ed try rr y afternoon I am conscious that 1 I write with an hU that is not a la mode in a world hut but I 1 own t bout out shame that long before I went r re to 11 live I fell ten a subject to the tho i ange ane charm of oC Brussels Nothing i Instance me more than h hear ar that old and nd oft ort repeated Bello incorrigible banality to lo the effect U t Brussels is a little Paris To lo tourist gaping at al Sic Ste Gudule or the tbt Grand Place Baedeker In hand rha 5 yes yea 8 but tourists seldom see sec seeA re thing A K they n ml might fht ht as well read their at home One docs does not o 0 v a Q elt city merely because h he has via via- d 4 It and seen Icen Its Us principal sights recall oCt often n and I r recall call with to It on n. n 01 n L now L. L the thc trees and a e where a a. rabbit dwelt Welt he carte o out t at limes R to 1 nibble al t the rose leaves dwelling fn n the Peace that thai was Wal breathed by all the COUntr Countryside one morning the thc e present cruelty and tra tragedy e. e y in in Which life lite jop lop much abounds were brought back to toI I vis Us h by a a scream oC of gear fear eal and pain and ard we saw a dog drig slink slink- log inc In away a way and ana t. t afterwards Mon Ion Mony petit A t du ln no sal ie plus Ne coure plug plu Dm Dans not J ln r My fly l flute a Iw 1 p ho he In t H pleas leaps eaps no nb more lie Ile r fIS no fo l more more 1 ln n n our garden I From om our terrace te terrace race at tea tra tea time lime we could it look ok n across ros the lawn and the roses rope to and the fe end that sloped rop d away with away with wheat a and andrye andrye r rye e ripening In Jn the sun son nn over o to lo the Mule cl cluster ter 0 of red rei r roofs ors that thai marked the he ancient of or Ter where the l legend g of of Si St Hubert the blessed pa patron ron of or do dogs s hail had It its b beginning lr Further Further Fur Fur- ther on on where time tile slender spire of or an anold anold old church pierced the tender lender blue sky k a a windmill lazily turned its sails all tl the c afternoon It was va lon long before 1 I knew the name of ot that village tIllage J I did not wish to know it JI J lest t the delicate charm char fir of It 11 depart cpa rt f on 11 acquaintance as charm i is too loo apt to lo do with lIJa villages e ewhen when one secs' secs i es' es them then or l With h mysterious In ste ous roads wh when n one explores th them m or with women women some some women when women when long Ions admired at It a distance lc one ones presented and for tor the first time lime hears them speak I And there on the terrace after aUel dinner dinner din din- ner in III the tile long Jong twilight we had our fcc and as the S soft voluptuous night enveloped n th that t tr tranquil peaceful peaceful peace peace- ful tUI world world a n nightingale gh poured out Its Us m melody lod from Cram t ti hI e dark thicket et that t wa was sc sr er very near we could coul fancy when we e stopped Mopped our Idle talking and ane heM held our breath that we could hoar hear the breath breath- Ir Jil Ing of M that rapturous little throat t It t wr would uld not noi slug sing lon long It knew mate little artist that 11 It was a that Joy Increased by 11 its Us moderation and and nd th that t tr r rapture rows prows sw a v us hS k It Is with held A 1 few v moments moments singing there Ir th the darkness o with it its hush its mysteries and Its low voices Voice and T I would go upstairs to lo the the- Ms Is of or the novel 1 I h had dreamed of through long lon years ar of ot tc feverish and for the most part parl uncongenial and ineffectual pout pout- Ic Ical 1 labors labors tire novel no Ihl h I thought at Jn last t I 1 wa was ryas to write I had never nC heard a nf nightingale nl sing before that summer Nightingales do donot donot not sn sing at ward meetings s nor nOI In cit city halls al at home hon nor in iii the hot hotels 18 that thai 1 are e hll much alike so 00 nor even en Inline e galleries galleries- of or Europe But Bul One evening e Just as the t twilight was fading lading froth from s tJ fields I fields I had rl taken a turn lurn in th tIle garden garden ar su cn-su suddenly as ns I d e door that tha t II shy sweet melody flooded the thc still evening 1 I J knew what 1 It t wt was anti and yet t there ther might ht be a ml mis lake the ironic spirits are arc always q playing such sly J tricks on cn mortals mortal On One On grows wary after awhile awhile t of life HIe n of happiness C est st un ros rossignol cc nest pa pas That Thai is a nl nightingale isn't It If I raked asked Omer Orner Out Oui I Excellence lie he hesaM |