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Show 1 1 . i. i r i r?g-JwJM-'- - )! J Spectacular Styles Have Little 'Vogue- Seen in Paris. A fascinating Drecol gown, worn at a Parisian theatre, suggests a bolero jacket in the lace used to trim the corsage. Two wldo straight strips of Vonlso laoo that cross tho phoulders are fastened by the upper corners to Liberty sntln belt It; fringed with tho 'op of the high black velvet girdle; at the back long black velvet ends fall to the hem ot the skirt. The elbow sleeves are prettily composed of upward up-ward turning frills of fine lace. An adorable gown of deep, rich rod velvet, vel-vet, worn by ono of tho smartest French actresses, ha? Its round neck finished with a deep! collar of Vcnlse lace shaping points. Silvery grey silver, the uneven cndB fall low on the skirt. It has a mcdloval air- sleeves that Boem cut In ono with tho corsage, loose and plain at the top, ar3 gathered just below tho elbow into in-to a deep, tight, wrinkled puff. A youthful costume! The air of youth accentuated by the manner of her hair-dressing. hair-dressing. Gathered softly in her neck, falling In loose folds over her cars, It is banded by a black ribbon that ties In a big bow In the neck. Empire Modes Appear Again! in Ballrooms But Not the Extremely High Waist Line Nor the Exaggerated and Eccentric "Hobble" Skirt Graceful Lines they were during the summer. Sheer wild gauzy matoiiuls will be very popular, popu-lar, as well as those toed in tho models described below. The vogue of veiling one material with another, or with several others, still continues. Chantilly, Mechlin and Spanish laces are also going to be in great favor. Lace Dft. too, will be much worn, and chiffon, silk, voile, silk crepe, 4llk marquisette and silk veilings over satin will be found In great prolusion. THE other day I was looking through some old flics of a magazine maga-zine I won't tell you what magazine, for you would probably prob-ably sniff and particularly at somo of George Du Mauiler's Illustrations. And one of tho first was a cnrlcaturo of the prevailing women's fashions of the day a gentle scoff of the cartoonist cartoon-ist at the skirts then worn, skirts so tight that their wearers could . hardy walk. In fact, the. woman In the cartoon car-toon is represented as saying that she had been obliged to rebuild her house because she could not climb stairs In the gowns then imposed by fashion. And that, dearly beloved, was In tho eighties I So you see all this pother about the hobble skirt Is not so nstoundlngly new. Furthermore, It teaches us that the annual editorial alarm about the garments we are threatened with is, as usual, a trifle overdone. Every season sea-son we have the same panic. "Tho climax of absurdity in women's lashlons" hoots the wise old owl In his editorial sanctum it Ij customary to call It a sanctum, though If you vver vero in one you milit l-.ive a different name for It. Hut. If you keop your eyes open, you will see that tLo really absurd In feminine rppurcl is so rare that it actually causes a crowd when It is seen ui ti1? street. So, on the whole, wj don't nee to be' afraid of having to mike ourselves cither ridiculous or i;ncumf"rtabIo in our desire to conform with th? modes. It Is truo that the Hue dc- la l'aix has sent out some ralix.-r hl.viire designs in tho way of hobble skirts. But they never will be really popular with American women, particularly nice American lromen. any more than they are with the French women who arc actually "of the moiulc." Houses that rely on the patronage of tho refined women of New York are not showing models of the extremely narrow skirt From two to two and a half yards is considered the correct width at th? hem, and it Is possible that this wl.l bo increased In later mo'Icls. illPpi lit ft 1 mm A. v y W V scllne do sole, put together at the waist with two thick curds, over which the raoussellne Is 6hirrcd. Cream colored lace forms a deep border bor-der around the skirt and trims tho bodice. One could picture to one's-telf one's-telf tho "nut-brown maid" of many a story thus arrayed, and see tho rosy tints of the gowa reflected in her cheeks as she moves with qucon-ly qucon-ly grace through tho minuet This gown is also very beautiful in tho many delicate shades of mousscline, which leading New York houses are displaying, and from which It i-3 not difficult to make a choice. For the Debutante The drawing at tho extreme right is of a debutante you will look far and have a hard task to find a moio chatmlngly suitable creation for a girl, with her youthful lines. It iu ot golden chiffon, tho bodice and ekiit both draped In graceful folds, 'lhe sleeves and appliques are formed of heavy gold cord embroidery. Besides showing off her slim, young figure, this scheme Is admirably calculated to match tho delicate peach-bloom of her skin. It is seldom one seeB a gown so splendidly adapted to a girl, because most models are too heavy and too old, and often more suited to the mother than to tho wearer. One so frequently hears tho remark at a ball: "How lovely that girl looks in white." Now, this Is usually very true and all very nice, but It Is rather hard on the girl never to wear anything else. In the sprigged white muslin days of our grandmothers. It would never have occurred to them to demand anything different. But now, tho up-to-date girl must needs have, variety in her wardrobe, and colored gowns particularly suited to her age and 6tyle are hailed with Joy. And while we ore willing to search in our grandmothers' chests for dainty bits of rare laco, wtth which to embellish em-bellish our costumes, the sprigged muslin of ancient times Is only 1 brought out to gaze at with amusc- ment or requisitioned when a fancy, dress ball id on hand. ! A Charming Princess 8tyle, Of the other two figures, one la a gown of cashmere do sole in draped princess effect. You will notice that tho tunic has a cascade edge, which Is trimmed trim-med with motifs of satin. The uDder-body uDder-body is tucked to represent a yoke, and tho cuffs are of Venetian lace. This costumo could be reproduced in different dif-ferent shades of tho material. It would bo particularly effective In palo blue, with the motifs In that soft, grayish blue, commonly known as pastel, and the cuffs of one of those creamy laces, so much in vogue. Ono cannot help thinking bow becoming this would be to the brown-haired, blue-eyed young matron, who has Just crossed the boundary dividing girlhood girl-hood from womanhood. The Narrow Skirt. The fifth Illustration is of a model In black Chantilly lace over a white satin underdress. You will perceive that this is an American modification of the extreme style known as tho "hobble." The band that confines tho skirt, the undcrflounce and the trimmings trim-mings on the corsage are of black satin. A large ro3e of pink tullo on the black garter band produces a charming color effect, although women wom-en ot extremely severe taste might prefer to omit this. This, of course, is too heavy a dress to bo worn by any but a rather large person, as only a woman of commanding appearance and imposing presence Is able to arry off effectively a lace gown of this description. mmmm - Latitude for all Styles. And, lest anybody should get the idea that there will be a bizarre ncte In this winter's fashions, I want to dl9abu3e their minds at once. One can form an excellent opinion from the models that have been bhown fo far and, with a few exceptions, they are charming. Furthermore, there is sufficient latitude In them so that any woman can pick out what is becoming to her. More than this you cannot ask of the autocrat Fashion. For evening gowns, designers have, for the most part, gone back to the Emplro period onco more. Not tho extreme, hlgh-walsted modes, as seen in tho court dresses ot Napoleon's time, but the modified stylo. In fact, they affect more the costumes such as our ancestors of that era wore in the daytime. In this they arc dlCe-rent from tho fashion of a couple of seasons sea-sons ago, which was moulded on the more classic lines of the court dresses of Empire times, although both modes are modeled on the beautiful, statuary-like llne3 of ancient Greek robes. The coming soason's evening gowns will not spoil tho figure, as did tho extremely hlgh-walsted ones. Tho girdle is barely raised above the normal waist lino. Nearly all the blt find girdles are much wider than also of gold. It is a creation Ideally I suited to a tall, stately brunette, and would show up her olive tinted skin to perfection. The 6amo gown could bo admirably reproduced in soft, sea-green sea-green roessallne, with the skirt drapery and bodice of chiffon cloth of the samo color. Tho fichu and tunic could be bordered with Jeweled Ivy leaves In silver, the slippers and flowers, of course, being also of silver tone. This soft mingling of green and silver Is exceedingly attractive to the eye, and especially charming when worn by the statuesquo blond of the Juno type. To the graceful woman who likes classic poses in the manner ot the ono in the illustration, with her hands clasped behind her back, the following toilette will surely appeal. The material Is of rose-colored mous- :. ' 'T1"' I ' .?.V,'!T" " 1 this quaint gown with its r.'c?i lace collar contrasting so beautifully with the deep-toned velvet, the long tight sleeves that point over the fingers, and its scant trailing skirt. The same actress wears In nLothcr act a gown with an extremely pretty corsage. The neck a tiny bit pointed Iu frout, is edged with a band of galon that lengthens on tho 6houlder, controlling ; tho fulness ot tho corsage, gathered again at tho waistline, under a belt of black varnished leather. Tho The models Illustrated have been selected for their nppeal to smart women of good tasto who avoid extremes ex-tremes of blzarreiie. For the Tall Brunette. Tho seated figure wears a gown of whlto crepe meteor, with the skirt drapery and bodice of whlto chiffon cloth. The fichu and t;ii;i.- arc bordered bor-dered with jeweled laurel wreaths In gold, and tho dainty slippers and flowers at the front of tho bodice arc |