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Show BROCADE RULES WEDDING GOWNS Gorgeous Display of Colors and New Fashions at Abby Ceremony LONDnx. Fob. 2 8. (B the Associated Asso-ciated Press ) About 1,000 women and girls were amorg the elect made happy by leiolpt of Invitations to Princess Mary's wedding to Viscount Lascelles at Westminster Abbey today. to-day. With them the all-important ouestlons were "What Shall I wear'.'" and "What will tho bridal party wea r ?" Within certain limits, the state chamberlain, who designates the form of apparel for state occasions, settled the matter. Ho prescribed "morning dress with hats, also orders and dot -orations." Dressmakers carried the thing a bit farther bv announcing an-nouncing that it would be a "brocade" wedding, that material being favored bj several of those socially prominent women whose selections usually govern. gov-ern. The state chamberlain's ukase ruled out the wearing of veils, plumes and trains. In the interests of economy, this had been the rule at the Court of St. James since early In the war The result was some diminution of brilliancy, but tho sacrifices contributed contribut-ed to the comfort of the feminine part of the wedding ongregatlon as Westminster West-minster Abbey has long been termed ''against connection of draughts." The choice of morning dress was made ' in view of probable cold weather and the continued prevalence preval-ence of the Influence epidemic" It Is recalled that many women who attended at-tended the wedding of Prinei hs Put rica at the abbey three years ago when more elaborate ami less protective "court" dress was worn, were almom blue with cold before the two hours ceremony ended. WONDERFUL 0OIXR6 "Morning" dress, of course, necessitates neces-sitates tho wearing of cloaks, and furs. Ofncers of ths army navy and all force wore full dress unlofrm. with orders and decorations. For civilians, court dres.s was prescribed. Swords were a part of this attire. Soldier without dress uniforms were ner- m It ted to use servlco kit Brocade lias been Increasing in popularity pop-ularity for somo time. Now it la all the rage and the wedding party afforded af-forded a gorgeous display of this material ma-terial In all its rich variety. There were brocudee of misty blue, of dull golu and shimmering silver. Tin- pattern, pat-tern, In most cases, was Elizabethan and tho effect one of rare splendor. Some of tho materials displayed at exhibitions held In West End modistes-salons modistes-salons before the wedding were marvellous mar-vellous examples of weaving. To vnrv tho plain gold or silver figuring, delicate delic-ate hydrangea colorings were introduced intro-duced and pretty "shot" effects achievod Hero and there stronger colors were seen true jade, for instance, in-stance, and aquamarine an approximate approx-imate definition, for this particular shading Is so subtle an to defy accurate classification. ne classically draped mode In Creps-faoed silver cloth was festooned from the shoulder.' with chains of large cut jet beads. A Jet girdle set with brlllbints w.ih looped round the hips and trailing elouds of black tulle served as transparent substitutes for sleeves. Ctl,s.s DESIGNS Many of tho frocks were classic In outline, long waLsted and with fairly full skirts reaching nearly to the ankles, according to one autocrat of tho dress world. As to the extent of the det olletage permlssable, no specific Instructions wero issued, but it was well known that Queen Mary disliked exaggeration exaggera-tion in any particular, of feminine attire. at-tire. A gown of handsoms silver lace, with the necessary matt surface, was sewn with pearls festooned with them this magnificent ovonlresa being be-ing Imposed on a foundation of silver tissue. Yet another had a surface of platinum plati-num paillettes with lapis lazuli paillettes pail-lettes used to give a mosaic effect, the whoJe being partially veiled In inoonliglh-Mue tulle But saiin was not altogether ruled out A frock of Jade "satin Anglais" with a sparkling diamond and pearl corselet hung with chains of diamonds was shown As to sleeves, tho odlct declared that a revival of sleeves was certain. This, It S understood, was in deference to a wish expressed by Queen Mary and pertalne.i to court dress more especially espec-ially than to gowns for the princess" wedding MTTiTiTNERfi PlJCASEp Inclusion of the wordi "with hats" in the state chamberlain b dress specification! speci-fication! was perhaps more Welcome news to milliners than to those attending attend-ing the abbey service certainly the male contingent was not overjoyed. Most of them, and many women, wero ffi.irful the hats in front of them at the abbey would obstruct their view, This consideration, apparently, was .taken into account at mo- shops ami ' a variety of specially designed small lhata and toques was displayed to min-llmise min-llmise this disadvantage. Many attractivo alteratives, to whut the modern woman terms a "hat " j were suggested. The jewelled caul of I the fourteenth century might be revived, re-vived, its sponsom directing attention atten-tion to Its opportunities It afforded ;'. displaying beautiful Jewelx. U was also 6ui?gested that tiaras might be roofed" with tulle or chiffon in order or-der to Qualify as suitable head-gear. Toques i( Russian satin, gauze, lace. henille and Silk straw were trimmed with ribbons, ombrolderles i and flowers and many of them .have long pendants of beads, ribbons or seml-preclous stones hanging down on I ono or both sides." declared one of I.ndon's most fashionable milliners. Adoption of the turban modes of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth nine-teenth centuries flashing affairs of I gold and silver trimmed, perhaps, with a paradise plume held by a Jewelled clean sould add to the general gor-geoUsness gor-geoUsness of the scene, some milliners 'asserted. Thcso turbans would accord with the popular gold and silver dr materials. . I As fur coats, or cloaks with iurs were to be Kenerally worn, a problem v 1th milliners was to create head-j wear that would harmonize not only with brilliant dress, but with a wrap of sable r nmiesKin. N() EL 11 M)B V. I Furriers and cloak-makers share in the fillip given London's dressmak j ing Industry by tho wedding and th season of social funetions which wil he incidental. Model cloaks of aprl cot velvet embroidered in diamond and Jet and collared with white fox of black velvet trimmed with kolln sky of ermine uiiied with sable: o m.'le iiul koi hroiHile with i llounei of fluffy marabout strands and col liars of the same material, are exhibit led. Besides gown, headdress and clonk jmiladv must have s handbag in keep !'! wi'h the rest of her toilette l'..,n. street shops showed some of these o elchteenth century letter case io Bpl rations plus a handle. Exqulslti i hairs of flat gold beads worked in satir topazes encrusting the stud fastener; and others entirely of tiny flat beadf I In a vivid rose color, the snap. fast j eners being mother-of-pearl dyed tr match, have been thrust forward a! ! the latest cry. ESven in shoes the ogue of brocad was evidenced. Dalntv bits of silver and gold tissue with graefful but un-exaggerated un-exaggerated heels, and buckles en-h en-h i need with wisps of fluffy material.-embroidered material.-embroidered with seed pearls were especially designed for some of the 'women wedding attendants. on |
