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Show I' ' r" " PHOTO. FASHION CAMERA STUDIOS i Tiit id of supple leghorn featuring crown covered with white stlk. A band of white ostrich makes the brim droop in graceful curves H ater hly bios-tortus bios-tortus and stems encircle the crown, these helping to weigh the brim n a graceful manner Combinations of Silk and Straw New Rajah Turbans Russian Rus-sian and Military Ideas in First Street Hats Wonderful Wonder-ful Colors in Sport Millinery Cat Tails Made of Ribbon a New Trimming P a i s 1 e y Buttons of Huge Size Often Sole Trimming Veiling Styles Extreme For first spring wear fashion seems to have decided upon the small, close fitting hat with a rather high crown and brim of sloping, or mushroom stle In fact the mushroom mush-room brim seems to be back again to stay. These down-turning brims are so universally becoming that one is not surprised to see their reentry re-entry into the fashionable field a trifle sooner than the usual schedule in stle cycles. Straw is so extremely hard to get that milliners have been driven to I using quantities of other material for the most part silk in combina- tion with straw braids, and the effect is so cry good that nobody misses straw in the least; the spring hats are charming they' entirely meet with woman's approval, and that is all there is to ill One sees hats of tucked taffeta or interlaced ribbon with underbrims of straw, and brims of straw supporting crowns of draped or tucked silk, and even of cloth. A very good looking hat for early southern wear had a wide, supple sup-ple leghorn brim in natural color and a crown made of narrow, lapped bands of mastic broadcloth stitched effectively in self colored sewing silk. THE NEW RAJAH TURBANS Perhaps the most interesting of the small hats are the Rajah turbans, made of colored or black straw with PHOTO. FASHION CAMERA STUDIOS A new mushroom brim sailor, made of silk and showing straw under the steeply slanting brim. The rather severe hncs of the hat are softened by the trimming; an embroidered silk baud xvith applique motifs in contrasting contrast-ing color silk swirled round and round the crown in true East Indian effect, a jeweled cabochon holding the folds of silk at the center front. There are also Russian turbans in military style and some of these, for motoring motor-ing wear, have the visor front and a narrow chin strap to hold the hat on in the wind Particularly smart Smart hats for motor wear are of col- ' ored pontine, the waxed side turned out and the re-verse side, of stlk or cloth, iiscd m trimming effect. This helmet shaped hat of blue pontine has large discs of the material A fancy button centers each disc. is a Russian turban of black pontine with a scarf of black and gold checked surah and long streamers of the silk at the back. There is a visor of the black pontine and a chin strap of black velvet. Pontine has a waxed, leather-like outer surface which sheds dampness and is in great favor for motor and sport headgear. PAISLEY BUTTONS FOR HAT TRIMMING Of course it was to. be expected that the craze Tor PaTsley would ex-tend ex-tend to spring millinery and the smartest thing one can put on one's new spring turban is a huge button covered with Paisley silk. Nothing else will be needed; such a button is a host in itself, one might say. There arc also beaded and jeweled ornaments in rich Oriental effects ...... Green and mustard colored ilk in an odd Chinese pattern covers this interesting inter-esting little sport hat. The narrow brim is of cream straw with a facing of green velvet. This hat is very smartly draped with a new soutache-embroidered veil. and fancy buckles of colored composition com-position through which are drawn crown bands of rich, grosgrain ribbon. rib-bon. Caterpillar buckles and caterpillar cater-pillar straws are two new ideas introduced in-troduced in the millinery realm, and one is reminded by suggestion that cat-tails are also a new idea. Southland South-land hats of white taffeta on mushroom mush-room lines had sprawling cat-tails, wrought with grosgrain and chenille ribbon, on brim and crown, arranged in natural, growing effect For summer wear one may expect graceful, picturesque hats in the Marie Antoinette and Watteau styles, and one or two brims are in the captivating poke shape. These hats will be of fine black lisere straw, of leghorn and silk, and of straw and tulle, and flowers are promised for midsummer wear, though there is little evidence of the garden in early spring millinery. Some of the sport hats for afternoon wear with j p i 1 ' j ' - PHOTO. FASHION CAMERA STUDIOS Much like a military cap is this hat of rough straw tuith steep crown of silk and a spiky jet ornament at the front. Over the brim is draped one of the new veils. i sport frocks of La Jerz, shantung, crepe de chine and faille matinee silks are enchantingly pretty. The under brim may show white or pale tinted straw but crown and upper brim arc entirely covered with shirred or pintucked silk and a festoon fes-toon of tiny silk roses encircles the crown. Instead of the roses, large beads, placed well apart, may be used. A hat of yellow taffeta matching match-ing an orange and yellow La Jerz sport costume, has square jet beads arranged in this way These silk sport hats are beautifully made, the shirrings and tucks put in -ith matching silk thread. It is better to go without such a hat than to purchase because of cheapness a model made of poor silk, sewed w?h a substitute for silk thread. -The hat will lack distinction and will sod lose its freshness. Black tulle and lace straw hats should also be sewed with silk thread and it will be a wise woman who looks to this important little detail when picking out such a hat VEILING STYLES EXTREME It will be a daring woman who wears a Paisley printed veil, but such veils ane coming in and also veils with huge gold discs. Some veils have a large single motif so placed that it comes over the front of the hit instead of the face. The butterfly butter-fly design has especial favor. iAT CROWNS MOUNT HIGHER PHOTO. FASHION CAMERA STUDIOS j i To accommodate the new high hairdressing the spring hats have very tall and rather large crowns j so that the hat may settle far down, around the head without disairang-' ing the 6oft puffs piled on top of the coiffure. Anything like a perched- up hat or one tilted rakishly on top of the head is disapproved by Fash-i ion just now, so the hat crown has had to make concessions t the j '-ojffure. The large crowns com-i)ined com-i)ined with slanting mushroom brims give the spring turbans a helmet-like helmet-like suggestion and when flowers are used they are small and fine and are placed at the top of the crown rather than around its base. Ribbon bands and bows are often located in the i same way at the top of the hat rather than at the joining of crown ind brim. Some very smart but rather trying try-ing turban shapes show the tall crown bulging over a tight headband head-band which encircles the head just above the tops of the ears, resting low on the forehead This style may be worn by young and pretty faces but the older woman should beware of the small hat with a headband head-band instead of a brim; the latter, particularly when of mushroom per-' suasion, lends softness to the features. feat-ures. Straw trimming are used on silk hats and there are innumerable little ornaments of straw in the shape of berries, fruits, cabochons and the like which give the touch of bright color so well liked just now. The hair is worn high and the hat must settle low on the head; therefore the tall, generously large hat crown of the moment. This spring model of navy blue 6i"lk has a crown-band of blue fancy straw and two flaring sections of the straw rise above the high crown. Around the top of the crown is a wreath of small berries in orange color, with bronze green leaves. |