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Show "1 fcvftw Ieitodi Coiffures 7 I 'Jf J;f?:iw pi-icu f u rioues C3I lo40 I :at'3r lamm JmKRSk ,mm j 31? f - ' Slack Veftet, Gold Cord and Rose feathers, S J3j MUon"Car1lrr. JR9MR iP$PNF) r tlll lnost s,n,::n5 'fl C season is tbo clvjrnncc of gf yss fS coiffure adoramcnt; For 2?25 2'i?J,'lc (lavt'n,c l'ie us"1 . 3 ibin N a tortoise fclit.J comb, thrust into hc slni- fYPlff a'r(rets,np wberppr it may bapppn iUl to be most becoming, and sbowins but a jMjft row of graded bnll ornaments at (lie top. 1 tr bmootlily polisbcd round bar tbat v'tt niiRmcnts tbc oftDcs and Mir.plicit of PllOftil C P1"05001- J"'e of n:"r dressing. Hair "b dressing, itself, so far as the arranssmen: gmt of the aiootli or waed trcs$s it con- jj corned, lias never been .it a more ilmjiie ljf singe, The smoothly parted hair aud the lllrtri simplicity with whicb it is drawn vverj iflllt euns nr U0llIlt "bout the head in very fi mtch the baiue m.umer ns a ba" ol nntl on5't(l or l'lc Wll" dretes arc draped villi i nowadays, gives a peculiarly trim and ijfflj neat appcat-.i nee. mB tr When it comes to the evening coiffure jjnS 5 lLis same apparent simplicity is elnbo- litnitcd upon by the varied udornmcuts that l'fmrc "ldcl to give the look of elegance l(.s really nccessarj.J vkflM 'l SCCIU3 nuite natural .tbat the ery VIh latest head ornaments should be inspired fin V6 m (J&Q by fashion plntj of IS-10, when the "lion- B lies' wore their hair In, simple fashion. aftf bur to make up for it wtfie headdretsi,si "nrnfH from the lime liny sot up till the veut( "w to 1)C(J' und liaJ ono ,0 fit cacl1 drcsS nud' UIjI ench occasion of tin djy. j $&g' The latest eoifturc adornmenls, designed ( S' by one of the master designers of Parisian Jtti' millinery, nic charming to wear with tl fonHt? rich eeuiug wraps now in vogue, jet are lSSw : so effective that they ma.v be letniued In, 5; I theatre boxes and loses. Whether women ftifs9!; oecupjiug orchestra seau will be ruired1 T'r3 to remove tiem i3 a raatler of conjecture. W? fr a m,ist Dc dccidel jut whether they -22jjl come under the head of hair ornaments or ,f. milhntry At all events they arc a wel- y&Zii come uoveJty for those whose acsthetrc -0?i Bcnse will not let them go with head uu- raT! ' covered when a wrap is worn, for no J matter how b.nutifiilb the hair is nr- fSm ranged, without a coiffure oinament of TOflSs Bome kind the ensemble has an unfinished ViMf look. 3? Feathers in Evening Coiffures. .j ''ic fur modcli of this new coiffure K' idornment pictured here are iuspiivd by Bt1 Uio styles of IS-10. Though with one excep- Hb n'on they re on the same general lines K they are different in detail. In one the K cap part ts fashioned of black velvet with Hp x Ions triangular piece fulling at oue hide. " This and the dniped head pait are out K lined with a gold cord and a rather ele- HR1 gnut tassellcd ornament of gold braid Hf? dragging at the triangular end. Tint un- aBE curled feathers arc effectively placed vSmL Another, of black velvet, designed in Bj the same manner, isbows the falling velvet ffK end weighted by two gold usscls ami a K slightly draped effect on the crown part. njK which ii turned back to show the pastel IfcfHb blue satin limug matching the curled WB ostrich tips placed as on the cap .dread Warn descrihed The third model is draped THJf more frankly into a cap shape nnd has aK two fulling ends of velvet, uliiih arc fljfi double and lined with satin, showing fly ft prettily through the funcilul buttonhole w9J at one end by a gold braid button, at the tK other by a tassel of military gold. Three fgjfg lows of gold braid follow the edge of the ffigB cap. &7fvL The fourth model has the tiniest of f&M cups and two big many-looped bows lhat Wftl are posed over each ear, caught to the ftfl I band by buckles of brilliant. These UW 1 loons nr mado of old ra velvet and m w N . . 'iJ'VW.i1 - ." Vl ,. i Lj ' Black Velvet. Pastel Blue Satin am Gold Ornaments. MIoo Carllrr. Corriflt X 1 U. would repeat the color of an old rose dress In most becoming fashion in (he hair. Such models wouIuVaNo be effective tn gold or silver luce or the v.iiious spangled tulles or jiaillettcd laces. Alb .this,' liow- C v ever, depends on the gown or wrap v. iili which the ornament in to be worn. To w hat extent the elaboration of liu r ornamentation cm go is j-cen in the otlu-r two Paris photographs on this page One, worn in one of the very latent Pant plaj s, is fashioned of a narrow band of brilliants into which is thruM, tit ono side, two beautiful pnrndUe plumo orn i-inenis. i-inenis. The other is a double bandeau one of j?niall roses, the other of twitod tulle ending in a big tulle wired bow, ami worn with a diaphanous gown that m p-plenients p-plenients Ihe rose" in the hair by l..igr ones tucked into the draped folda. Feathers are used in evening colffuies as well us aigrettes, jnd though !li a g-rette g-rette is lather iasse as a hat adornment it is still in vogue as mi evening hair ornament. or-nament. When the long ostrich plume is used it is generally in combination with some fanciful jewelled band passementerie passemen-terie or a single row of these .stones h iv-iug iv-iug the usual jewel setting. They are posed exactly as aigrette or ohprey ornaments orna-ments would be, swirling off from the head at the most becoming angle just, in fact, us they would be placed in the hats. To return to the hair itself for a moment, mo-ment, in epite of its simplicity of arrangement ar-rangement there is oue modern and novel point to be noted about it Under its flim-ple flim-ple arrangement it is generally padded out at pic back, high or low, as most becoming, be-coming, to give the same elongated effect at the back that is seen in all the bmart hat shapes tliis year. Neglige Caps. One could hardly finish the chronicle of hair adornment without a word about the breakfast and neglige cap. These have become so popular that they are now made to match, and sold with the ne.'lig5 or breakfast jacket. Matching the cap to the aGgligu has changed tbc shape nod style of the cap somewhat, for n negllgfe of the Louis XIV tjpc calls for a cap of the same epoch, or, leaving historical fashions out of the question, a rather severe neglige or breakfast jacket on tailored lines ncds a simple cap, while a more tlutty one goes with a dainty and elaborate style of nOg-ligO. nOg-ligO. It is too delightful a chance to be picturesque t ,K; lost in ll,cse Jas f tailored street clothes. Evening govvns themselves are made of lovely and dinphanous materials. Tulle, lace, mouBdcline dc sole, spangled or plain, in often combined with crepe de ilSi jsili mam, m iWItbIBJBi I fr "i ' ' ' i binding band at the lower edge, is the newest idea in winter petticoats. One sid ij made of a light color, the revnrse hide of a darker or brighter tone. Thus the light side may be worn outward with light dresses, the darker side -with cloth or tailor made suits, and in either caie the Confra6t :s effective. This double under-Sl. under-Sl. rt also gives na added warmth for winter win-ter without making any appreciable in-'crease in-'crease In thickness Thtse underskirts jar" very uiaiply made, with a pleated s.mply because it Ls useful, and if fur -.eirn destined to protect us from the cold there is no reison why we should not also take advantage of Its becoming lines, pleasing fdors and general grace to idoru our toilettts ' It Is even certain Out the paler and lighter the material of a toilette nny be the more successful and becoming will be the smarter note introduced by the fur A dress in white moussolino de wiie or iu straw colored crepe dc Chine will be delirious de-lirious outlined with bauds of xkiuik or sable, while a black velvet drees maj be very attractively trimmed with the oft whiteness of ermine. Indeed, fur is insinuating in-sinuating itself everywhere at the mo ment. It certainly denotes a taste for luxury and it gives buch a "cachet" lo the simplest toilette that one can hardlj regret re-gret the extravagant indulgence. The robes d'inteiicur, day dresses, evening dressea, coats, hats, reticules, sIiocf. bod covers, sofa cover, muffs, stoles, ecarfs, everything is trimmed and adori.cd or else entirely composed of fur. " Little Journeys Into Fashion Land. OPOSSUM, both natural and skunk djed, one notes, as iho acason ad-vances, ad-vances, cLiIly grows In rcrjueaL Kor the prevailing trimming purposes it la admirable, ad-mirable, and a vogue In cvonlnK gowns thut we arc destined to ace a good deal ol comprJres a double skirt of black nlnon or not, each hommed with a deep band of dark brown fa. A foundation, as goon without Raying, Is provided for these Junes a sllrn-llttln-r affair while the trara. parency has a suggestion of a tendency to stand away that Is partly due to fulness plcatod sometimes and partly to the fur. During the past wctka some man'ollous jvcnlng f rock3 have, been seen, and have confirmed wore than ccr the extraordinary extraordi-nary cleverness of modern sartorIallm. Thos creations are no things for patterns, the dressmakers responsible for thc.r tvolvement literally draping his or her scheme on a living model. The paucity of '? '";. ,l'Tr;?r -Jml ' , BlacKVelvet,Go!dEmbr.d. V-'WJfe- 4 .I'V-ll .4mml ' ; r- eriesandTassels. - c ' WL ' ' plagiarisms. The difference, though subtle. M la quite appreciable and obviously due to ,H personal touch and splendid Inspiration fH rather than any studied Intention. Onco ' the eye becomes accustomed to this hi op- 'H ing away from the bend of the hips, pro- lf vldcd, of course, it Is executed under .H proper auspices, the more attractive dues 'H the movement become. ' iH iH Umbrella handles covered all over with U.i) buids are to be aeon among the new- il est trinkets. jH Combining chiffon and eatln ha.i proved l so satlsfActory that the fashion threatens tH to become permanent. tll '' ''11 Brilliant colorings and Uoafgns vill be a IH fcaturu of the new season's fashions, and H dioa, !f loss glittering, will be quite is H gorgeous as ever. 'H The hat of the medium sl:o has its auc- H CC3S assured this season. Iargc huta may H still be worn for ceremonial occasions, liLLi but for all practical purposes there -tv III lipH be only the toquo and the small brimmed JH hat. with a tendency toTard postilion tH iH Oval buttons arc the latest freak of iH fashion liaiH French women are wearing white covert iLLl coating extensively 'LH ! H NavT blue serge, whipcord and covert H coating are extremely popular, IH In many' Instances the Russian blou&o fipH Is used for children's frocks. jH Tor connto mar nothing will usurp the ' H placo of tV.ccde, that are now being ' H decorated with a special relour suede. H Tho peculiar nea-io of tho new two ' H tono sill, serges gives them the effect .it H a litllo instance of being a color veiled ' H jv.-ltn seme sheer black material You H I will notice that a large majority of the ' two tone silks of ever und, are half H biaclc 'H There is great variety In the shapa and H length of trains. Court trains continue to H be popular. H The rage for charmcuse continues, and iil every concvlvablc kind of garment 5s made "iaifl up In this material. H As cvory one knows, to bo quite correct Piia stockings and nhoes should be of the exact ! H shade of the gown worn The high rrencli liiii heels of ail the newest designs display gold iH and silver Inlay set with brilliants or other iiifl stones, to suit the fancy of the wearer, The Large Roses on the J)ress Arc Repeated by - w Ijw ' l&jM Jr &' 8&V. '"' VAw : H a Crown of Smaller Onesm the Hair. , W Rose Velvet Loop.; and-Strass Ornamcnls, XX; ? ' mfam JM is-S I jH l'l,lo rcrrnri.1 nUlTltrninurrr .. ... Upjrlfbt .N 1 If. iSI T''V " Mi A M "'A BH hVHilr(V!?nflil. VJ1J Nra loik ilmMCftniuer HT BfciT"V ' y t"W "" I H Chine, atin, moir broende or velvet Thn transparency of thf former cc-nib.ud with the opaque but lumiuous fabrics like ih s-itina or biocndes make evening govves lhat really approach the ideal. Tho laces and semi-transparent fabrics make lovely tunics, not only on the new Russian and Liulgarian lines, but are used a.s found i-tioas i-tioas acro and over which wind lovol draperies of 3atin or brocade Sach a gown is sbown hi lac photograph bcr The white Go! b"aded net, over which a winding drftpery liangs diagonallj, is delightfully interwoven b"!ow with i; white beaded net aud black lace, and caught near the hem by roses. An inld elaboration of this costume i3 the embroid enng of the whito beaded net iu a large lloial pattnrn The blnck lace Is repented iu a pelerine collar about the low neck. Tne wrap depicted in of oc- of the newest new-est shadi-s of cense plush and .has the novHty of chiffon sieves, almost hidden b; the wide blue for fur cuffs. This fur also forms an outlining bind on tho coat Like many of the .siuson's wrapu, it f.ifitens with a simple ornament or tassel. New Idea in Underskirts. TWO silk underskirts mado alike aud of different colors, placinl back to back aud 6evvcd into tho tame wuistband at the top and into a black taffeta over- Jlounce or tuQkgd insets, and the olack Sand about the lower edge is, besides Ijping an Interesting contrast, a protection for Ihe petticoat just where the delicate colors are likely to become most soiled. While on oue side with green or rub oa (he other, blue with gray or orange, corn coJor with dark brrtwo these arc seme of the mont effective combinations that will go with gowns of all colors Charmcuse, soft satin or silk arc the best materials from which to fashion these practical underskirts. Contracts in Colors and Materials. TI113 present fashion seems to have borrowed from the , feminine character charac-ter that love for contrast wnh which it is popularly accredited. These contrasts con-trasts in color aud material often result :ii opposing effects which are extremely successful. Dark lustrous fur, for oinm- plf, when used on the brilliant light IiiiIm of an evening dress, mnki-s a delightful melange. Of course, It is very illogical and paradoxical to put fur on auything io ephemeral ns a thin decollete1 toilet, lint that ib precisely what gives it Ihe diitinctivc Parisian twuutieth century (ouch. A thing cannot ulwaj3 be worn Even a Simple v " VB i 1 1 i . t4 H Ha-rornamen, ' .y MiwWM VA Gives to Ihe Head '-V.; .vSgS& 'WM ..IJ H Ihe Necessary i . MmM-JW W""! H Ornametftat.on. , BSPHw 'r'l 1 H i:i.., v..i. ggfeft& AtffT' m13 i ' a iil seams ib amaz'ng Unless Jldecd or" scei'! for the'1 .shaping mdluint. thtj m.tfnt to all inteni and purpo&os. iiq: oxiti. w In the case of a blue, sul'in skirt, mount, ed at rather a high waistline onto a. Jcvv-cVd Jcvv-cVd evraugc. the draperies vvre llio result re-sult of the Amplest sw'athlngs vvirleO round the figure Where they boun and vvhere they -ndid would have requireil th; closest Invi-Htlgatloij. and the ensemble w-a-s fco absolutely adorublc one gladly Itft tl at that. Again, with an evening clonk of old rose muolr velvet there was a folded ueum of sorts running from tbo right ihouf-der ihouf-der across the back to the lefr side at the hem For thj rest the whole affair was a matter of adroit draperies. And It Ij this same adrollncs that maV.&t a'l tho dffernce In the world between be-tween ihoao-callcd pegtop skirt emanating from the big establishments and the choap awhile largo budtles placed in front arc R LLia decorati-d in the same momner Some fi iiH Nticea Listen at the aide with dainty IIlllo Ijiiia fancy buttons, while olhr are laced, and jlj a few )itxvL tiny raeeltcu of lace and lib- 'liiiV The cutaway coat loads In popularity jliiH rnd thk dJr$oiolr-2 (.ollrtr Is almost India- Jf penVablc. S'&iH :H Thur have ben runior and more ru- j fH mors thai th polunalxj will roturn. This r-jaiifl garment bi nothing but a travesty of the 3 Niiil dlreiolre. The new pleated skirt will be ) uLiifl treated, In several ways It need not nee- ! hLLB estarlly ht the old-fashioned round hilt, 'liiiH but we can take our choice of pleats Intro- j lH ducod In from and back, or tx the sides. ! In same of tne now mi street costumes the ' H coata. arc entirely of furprnostly In mole, Hudson eal, ertatne and sable, H I |