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Show III ? (If 'WWWw If DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucilc" of Lon-i, Lon-i, and foremost creator of n the world, writes each fashion article for this :, presenting all that is id best in styles for ivcll-Duff-Gordon's new Paris cnt brings her into close h that centre of fashion. Duff-Gordon's American lent is at Nos. 37 and 39 ifty-sevcnlli street, jfcw y DUFF-GORDON ("Lucile") lowing you this week a ilngly chic costume that I "Gray Wintry Woods," is of just the gray shades skies and woods assume It is created in mole-irmeuse. mole-irmeuse. The long, very toned skirt has a pannier liat is very new, as both drawn down in the back 3cd through a stunning ed buckle, similar to that mmmm I on Iho girdle. This doeB not show In 1 the picture, but ic is ono of the most effective touches. Notico tho new buttoned front. Tho bodice and skirt are in reality severely plain, but the buttons, nearly fifty of them, add a decorative touch that is very novel. Tho collar and cuffs are of rare old Valenciennes. The Hat 'Temperamental," of Black Velvet witbt Large Glowing Red Rose Against Brim, The mufC ot tho rnolo fur and shirred panne velvet, and tho -small cap, complete this costume. On the cap and muff are tiny rose and blue rosebuds. I am also showing you a group oC hats that appeal very strongly jo me. Hals mean so much to a woman. A hat may ago a woman ten years, may remove fifteen, all in ono instant. ! There is the hat coquotish; it may be largo, it may ho small. Thore is also tho hat picturesque, usually large, but it may bo small. Thon there is the hat tempera-montal. tempera-montal. In tho second figure, I am portraying portray-ing one oi my "temperamental" hats. It is one of tho Tarn o' Shanter shapes, of lustrous black velvet. Against the up-turned brim is a glowing, rich, red satin rose, et in glossy green leaves. This chic hat is medium, neither largo nor small, and frankly, like its name, it is not suitable for every woman. In tho third figure, is what I call the picture liat perfect. I created it for Mile. Itcnouardt, who has succeeded Madame Lantolmo as the most beautiful woman In Paris. Notice the graceful curve lo tho brim. It frames the face so charmingly. Of a rough, dull green silk felt, it is trimmed with long haired snunk fur. On tho oxtreme edgo of the brim is a wonderful bird of paradise. To :;mall hats I am devoted, wben they are becoming. There is nothing noth-ing more lovely, more chic than a piquant, youthful face, framed In a snug fitting hat. In the fourth picture is a delightful pale gray felt picture hnt petite, soft and pliable. The beauty and chicnoss depend entirely on tho way it is put on tho head. It must be literally liter-ally "slammed" on the back of the head and .cocked sideways to show the left eyebrow and part of the hair. On this gray felt I have arranged ar-ranged a flat rose docoration of pink satin. The black velvet neckband neck-band is attached to the hat at the back, far underneath tho brim. The Perfect Picture Hat of Green Felt and Brown Skunk Fur, Showing Lnrge Bird of Paradise on Extreme Edge of Brim. Are not these hats delightful? j They show the latest Parisian tendencies, and wearing ono of these models, no smart woman can be at fault. And just a word in praise of the . small close-fitting cap of moleskin and gray velvet that the model in tho first picture is wearing. It is just a round "night-cap" affair, mado of bands of chirred velvet and mole fur. It is the hat coquettish, and llttingly tops tho "Gray Wiutry Woods" costume. - It would seem that no scheme is too fantastic for feathers this season, and the wondrous ways in which ostrich plumes are manipulated mani-pulated not to say tortured! on sorao of tho newest millinery models, is more often calculated to arouse amazement than admiration. admira-tion. On some medium shaped hats of boaver velours for oxample, whero tho brims have a slight and loiig upward roll at each side, the crown will be encircled by quite a modest little ruche or fringe of feathers. And then suddenly this quiet little feather will go completely mad. and spring outwards or upwards up-wards or undulate sidewlse m a series of crooked curves and in consoquence will transform the hat completely when the point of view permits of a full display of these feathery freak3. Sometimes again and, really, this is rather protty a highly curled ostrich feather will be combined :intl effectively contrasted with absolutely abso-lutely straight strands, the curled . part clustering closely about the crown and the other falling, frlnge-fashionupon frlnge-fashionupon the brim. Then what do you think of a hat which provides its own feather boa? It sounds surprising,-but that it is an actual fact and fashion, fa-shion, is likely to be proved to you before very long by the public wear of the new model, which is at present only being be-ing privately displayed to the privileged priv-ileged few. Imagine, therefore un 1 11 you so thus see or wear it a moderately ' sized hat encircled by one of those curled and fringed feathers, which, after meeting at tho hack, sweeps over and under tho brim, and is then continued into a ruffle long enough to curve round the neck, and bo thrown over the other shoulder. Knots of mciro ribbon aro introduced here and there into the feathers which aro here ar. ranged in circular form, and as a contrast of color, or at any rale, shadings ia also contrived. The. general effect is distinctly attrac-. tivc, more especially when a col- i larless corsage or coat, or both, bOj nt nmivsp ' worn, .'liiu uuvi ts.ua. "i ii7i tho hich collar somewhat diai-j cult ofdiscovery, for though-it regularly regu-larly makes a reappearance on a few of each season's models, it is just as regularly refused by any and every woman who values her charm and her comfort. Another feather adorned hat, not quite so extreme in style, is or; black velvet, with a broad inner and outer brim bordering in a soft) shade of beige. For its trimming there is just one long ostrich) feather, whose cloudy softness otj black merges eventually into' beige, this delicate color coming against the black velvet of the crown, inasmuch as the plume starts its career right under the brim at the loft side and then .curves outwards and upwards, ending end-ing in a sort of cascade, which showers itB softness all over the ff-l crown. bI Another velvet hat, long and nar- Sfl tow in shape, and deep peacock 91 blue in coloring, has Its crown HjH guarded closely at either side by wjl an oBtrlch feather, also beautifully jlH blue at first, but shading towards fl the centre Into dahlia red and pur- fi plo, the two "stems" being just jlH ! crossed In front, while the quaintly H j curved feathery ends Tepeat this Mil i arrangement at the baclc, but far llB beyond the brim. H'l There are, In fact, feathore on al imll most evory hat, whatever the wl fabric or size or stylo may be. Sl Ono typical and rather striking cx- ral ample- of tho new possibilities ot iMfll the familiar trimming being the Hl presence of an encircling fringe on a 11 a hat whoso soft quartered, crown and wide "floppy" brim aro of pea- 91 cock blue and green shot silk. 91 The coloring of tho plumage is fpjfl lovely too, for each feathery strand Sill shows a centre of blue, flushed ifjiH round with rose. 91 IH |