| Show I i New ToHeiTeff from the II I t I Frcnch Ca I I I i S VAGARIES J OF FASHION High Collars Completely Gone Out and to Be Replaced Lawn Collar With Colored Border Paris Saturday Ma1 1901 Between Be-tween I two squalls and favored by a nidi ant sun already warm 1 felt an Irresistible desire to look In the windows i win-dows of the Rue de la Palx and othor 1 vine sacrae for the small coquettish coquet-tish And attractive trifles which will JH l > so many unpublished novelties in this new season r > 4 As regaids costumes and hats the dally gatheringsat the Concours ITlp pique have begun to fix ones mind as to the direction fashion will take and the coming vernissage at the Salon k will settle the question finally I But there are thousand shades that I J observed In my look around In the morning and I feel sure that the readers of my letter will profit by IU 1 Just as at the accession a new king r succeeding n predecessor beloved in hlr tithe T write under conviction of the appearance qlL new fash Inn I La mode est mortef Vive la mode and this year will change nothing in traditions tradi-tions for all the innovations appear charming and will give rise to no dissatisfaction dis-satisfaction among the votaries of fashion Let me speak flrst of the delightful manner in which the high collars that have served as neck trimmings have been replaced At present ones neck emerges from a flat collar of fine white lawn bordered with colored lawn sky blue or mauve Ties arc made to match with butterfly bows or sailors knots These are Infinitely more becoming to wear with a tailormade costume Then the style maybe varied In endless ways lfivn In the style of the art nouveau Mlifoli Is applied to all branches of Industry In-dustry 1 I must also direct your attention to handkerchiefs In the same style which are perfect successes On the square ends of skyblue lawn tire embroidered embroi-dered white dragon files or floral designs de-signs In symmetrical order These handkerchiefs are exquisite And the details of a handkerchief are In these days of Importance In the feminine toilet From all times it has marlced the degree of refinement of those who t I t use it and the degiee of civilization among races The chemisette BO Ideally convenient dethronement of which some discontented dis-contented spirits periodically predict is still greatly in favor There are innumerable in-numerable ways In whIch the linen warehouses interpret this garment For this summer besides lawn and other light cloudy materials I predict great success for chemisettes of glace taffetas taf-fetas printed with cashmere patterns In A medley of colors very pleasing 1 but very attenuated and diminished by reflections re-flections Further the evergrowing width of waistband buckles Is sufficient suffi-cient evidence of the longevity of the I blouse THE EMPIRE STYLE The empire style continues to hold Its sway over the destinies of women of fashion nnrl his style Is all the rage Wide waistbands of waterproof material mate-rial clouted with steel or with gold beej are fastened with 1golI buckles like those of old soldiers belts with eagles with outspread wings and laurel wreaths round the plaques Then there are ribbon waistbands with double I clasps and a pluque hnsed all over Let me also mention some charming waistbands embroidered in monochrome on a gold ground In the empire st leThe le-The front takes the form of a wide corselet on which are swans pigeons seagullfi or flowers In the part nou vcai style The neck trimming Is similar It is an artistic complement that may be adaptetd to all kinds of chemisettes Tags and agullettis continue con-tinue to bo freely ufecl and some extremely ex-tremely prefty ones are made 1 Lawn will be a very favorite material I mate-rial thJssummer and 1 have seen a new I and pretty application for it It is In I connection with pink blue red or I I orange sunshades used as a ground for a covering of plain lawn finished oft with wide flat pleats The effect is I charming The light Is greatly subdued sub-dued and moreover this simple and recherche style goes with various cos tunics Everything lies In matching the ground material Sunshade handles are of moderate length and continue to Colored enamels and be very elaborate I cut crystal enriched with precious stones are the pievalllng note of the season There are a thousand small refinements re-finements Introduced In everything one wears and never did luxury and research re-search extend to the details of the wardrobe ds they do today While modern creations are extensively exten-sively utilized ancient fashions are also retained For Instance the reotlcule which wag formerly an accessory to a visiting costume Is at present Indispensable Indis-pensable at the theater It is presented to us In the long flattened form of past days surmounted with marvelous decorations dec-orations Some are of velvet embroidered embroi-dered with steel beads and a clasp of steel completing the general elfect I Others of rainbow colored beads look as though they had been found In the losewood cheffonier of a fardistant mate Aurore What completes the I illusion Is the return to the gold mounted lorgnon finely chased like I those carried by the Incroyables and Mervelleusc of the eighteenth century cen-tury They have the merit of being Infinitely In-finitely less cumbersome than the tortoise tor-toise shell face a mainsand they answer the came purpose Moreover the art othc modclard and the chaser finds material for masterpieces and I have ndmiied handles of rare perfection per-fection and so artistic In conception as In make one think of the masters of the Italian I renaissance The lorgnette Is also made a pretext for delightful fanclesf enamels minia nturcs tortoise shell pearl Itfartln I varnish and the tendercst porcelains beautifully decorated make It an object ob-ject of rare luxury and at the game time quite modern and being an object ob-ject of the first necessity one can easily have half a dozen and doubtless doubt-less in time form a collection as Interesting Inter-esting as those of snuff boxes sweetmeat sweet-meat powder boxes etc which I museums one so enthusiastically admires In the I I oJ I XfifCS > CharcI > oJ M p I 2 L jy J J a r d F i Q f CORSET COVERS p 4P 1r I L I j 1 H I P I I c f U7 7 1 ctir c2pj y p v4t r I jlf I kL u t I < p > v 1 II I t T U h q t J < I U 1 I TH A V 1 1 j I I I 1I I 1 r I I I r 4vvE e au iOZ2LED o1zQThTTh 72T41 LI4C L I 4 |
