Show I muStrram Fat lor8eauty r Hat Strings Are Vital This Winter The Dire toire and Its x Rhine Stone Sunburst Also a Mllinery CornerStone Corner-Stone Study of Waists For f T I I I f i Winter Gowns k New York Oct 20 What nearly 1 I every woman aspires to own for her winter wearing1 is a DIrectoIre made wholly of velvet its wide upturned rounding brln1 faced with white waved chiffon and the crowning glory of jt a Rhine stone sunburst et insidt at tIDe base of thn brim where it Hares up from the faie The sinibJrst is really the cornerstone corner-stone round which the properly design f tc I i r 0 I I I I 1 r H i I I I Si Bodice with Serge Costume ed DirectpJre is buiH and aside from It virtues as an ornament it serves the noble purpose of bracing back the brim so that it forms the proper sort of arch above the face Whether the crown of her Directoire rakes exaggeratedly exag-geratedly forward or not whether the wlrole hat itself is composed of velvet that is of the commonplace weave or that variety known as antique are almost al-most Unimportant details to the woman who has staked all her claims to beauty on her strings The Directoire that is a force in the millinery realms alwa chas c-has strings but as you hold dear your hopes of looking your best in your new winter hat dont invest in ribbon strings Nothing J is mate difficult tQ dispose becomingly about the face than broad doublefaced satin scarfs no matter if the satin is the richest and the softest you canfind The requisite effect indeed in-deed the only effect is to be had by the use of chiffon or iberty crepe or moines mo-ines net or if you can afford a good delicate kind lace scarfs How Strings Should Be Worn When fashionably disposed the hat Firings are invariably draped and one Is half a yard shorter than the other this is of course the left hand string When a Directoire is pinned in place its soft chiffon right hand streamer is cast across the bust in a loop to the left sfioulder there it meets its mate and they fasten to the shoulder of the grown with an ornamental brooch from this point they flow down to the waistline waist-line ami fastened again while their ends drift in uneven lengths one to the knees the other nearly to the feet On a sumptuous calling gown of that strange soft color called faded leather strings of creamy lace draped as described de-scribed are invaluable agentsfor decoration deco-ration Sometimes the hat streamers are very long and fall in an airy chi on cascade down the front Of the gown silk and an exceedingly long light fringe gives them a fashionable finish Novel Stuffs Mbiretl velvet is one of the few fabrics fab-rics we have never seen before and that is coming to thefront as a goods I for handsome simple trained skirts to wear with fancy theatre waists and it comes most aptly into play for ornamental orna-mental collars belts rever facings hat folds and ornamental waistcoats We do see here and there whoTe gowns of it and one of the most attractive bridal tumes made for an October wedding was all of white moire vclvethung v a I = kS I Sr 0is A Graceful House Bodice with white sIlk fringes of divers lengths Turning over other interesting con iributions of the manufacturers to the hoards of fabrics turned out this autumn au-tumn we find a strongly appealing nov city under the appropriate title of arsenciel 1 for it is a fine white cloth jo wonderfully dyed that an opalescent rainbow stripe now appearing now disappearing like the colors in a shot silk runs through every width Larc pnciel has been put forward especially for the makeup of theatre and reception recep-tion gowns whilo it if l not a little used for the troupes of bridesmaids nqw iii dressmakers hands Most popularly Is garnished with liriosHrf clearbrown tur mink Alaska sable etc and Jj 3 JI i heavy cream cluny and Renaissance lace Efeavy Waists Running over a row of covetable toilets at any wideawake dressmakers the inference is clear that something is being used to break the shoulder line to relieve the flatness of the upper half of the sleeve where It enters the armhole Many waists show ridged I tucks at the shoulder point a broad I rever collar is allowed to sweep low I over the sleeve or a couple of caps give width and grace at the shoulders I Everywhere is denoted a reprehensible tendency to break the sleeve line with round decoration on the upper or the forearm else at the elbow a hljle frill runs round the irni and below itto the waist rucked chiffon or lace extends ex-tends in a long clo = e cuff An Excess of Trimming Beyond these criticisms none but flattering flat-tering comments are to be made of dress waists as they now reveal themselves them-selves and powerful as has been the effort to coax women to accept more decoration on their skirts the waists of the majority of gowns continue to steal all the real glory and color of the costumes On some of them the most intricate and coquettish little waistcoat arrangements are adQpted and as one of the accompanying illustrations reveals re-veals the waist of a cloth gown will open its velvet faced rever collar first to reveal a waistcoat of soft striped silk and inside this a second vest of satin overlaid with lace upon which is draped through jeweled buckles a necktie of liberty satin What with the barrel shaped buttons and the stitchings on the little cloth garment itself the waist ot this pearl gray clotty suit reflected seven different but perfectly per-fectly accordant colors und five diff rent r-ent fabrics A Costume In BrownS Brown-S orcs of the prettiest costumes made up so far have illustrated a general tendency of the modistes to harmonize in one suit variations of a single jolor For example a thrush brown camels hair will have its waist ornamented with a great kerchief collar of quite golden brown silk upon which is laid a collar of teatinted guipure the whole collar will show an edging of minks fur a girdle and bows of sable brown IJ erA ik i w sI i c Waist Trimmed With Stitchings velvet and the apex of this symphony in brown will be a tucked or plain high collar and frontlet of pale gold colored silk It requires a careful hand and a true eye for color to compile ona of these mismatched dresses as they are denominated in the dressmaking vernacular ver-nacular and not fall into very errone ous arrangements in many green or t selected blues j There are apparently at this stage h clothesland only two details the making mak-ing of a dress waist which if followed will render a gown hopelessly unfashionable unfash-ionable One is to cut the sleeves full at the top the other is to allow any length of bodice below the waist line Otherwise you are free to make the j body to your new fall dress as your own swoet will dictates nnd do what I you will you cannot get behind the tlrnco Big rovers and little ones a slightly pouched front or a flat one long sleeves to the knuckle or those to the wrist bell shaped cuffs or none at all are each and every one modes of the time most timely and bol road ro-ad vest effects and short jacket backs and yokes and kerchief arrangements cannot really be placed any one before I the other in the lists of popularity Velvet Stocks What fills the soul of the lover of neck novelties with joy unconflned is the high stiff dark velvet stock that hooks behind but shows two rows of glittering little buttons running up the back This Is fastened about the neck of any gown and then a satin ribbon I of some pale color is slipped about the i throat at the top of this collar and inside in-side it drawn to the front and tied eo that its ends garnished with tabs of the most delicate white point lace fasten in a bow crisp as a fresh blown white rose right under the chin Along I A-long throat and a proudly poised chin I are necessary if one would wear this novelty whilesomething not less prett and original and more comfortable is a collar of folded panne with two lily petal shaped pieces deftly wired faced with satin and turned back in long outstanding out-standing poiQts from either side under the ears So long are some of these collar points that they extend four inches cut from the collar band and then droop and touch the shoulder seam and are at once eccentric and I becoming u MARYXDEAN |