Show REALMS OF FASHION Revulsion Against Showy and Spectacular Dressing HOW TO DRESS THE SHOULDERS Words of Wisdom for Short People A Revival of Drap de Sole A New Breakfast Break-fast Gown NEW YORK Oct 291890 Special correspondence cor-respondence of TilE HEKALD Know thyself I is an all important maxim guiding guid-ing principle ever to be received and admitted ad-mitted especially in the practical concerns of the fashionable world Of all the aims with which an intelligent woman may undertake un-dertake tho art of dressing well the most objectionable is that of dressing brilliantly Specalties of dress and even novelties i 1 b t r J N tl l r wlb J l J J W i fr I 8 It T l ft i f r J 4 t I > > cli1 rtr J 11f < TI i Ijtl 11 r l I l r F f c l I Jl1lj 1m I PiFiiillm JJII w yo f f j < I 1 j r1l d h J > rkit1 L i h m 4 t j P1 J l p Jtj I rtffii 1 1JJ r N lft f 1 Ii1 i 4 I I W J r tf k ± I lrJ lil 1 11J Ittl ijL rI H t RJ I I I 4 tSi7 II c t Z flY q t Jr ftii1f I Ii f4 i F nJYSiH IJJ j I hI fiJ 1 I I ldf fiYjJ1 j W 7 rf JI 1 f > iP H fh I 1 J J i 7 hi f l t 1 fF 6 I ij 1 ft l i iJ t 1JY t Ft < 0 EnTEr OWN omctimes fail ia being successful and there is alvMys more or less clauger of IOMUJT iht Gf what is refined and < leant in the pursuit of wha is simply striking On the other hand mere imitation imita-tion is not desirable for the choice off of-f us well asthat of material requires individual taste and judgment and to Ihis end every women should understand bettor bet-tor than any one else what is best suited to her style and bearing Hence not to know ones self results in s inevitable disaster as regards perfection in dress V If your shoulders are narrow do not wear sleeves which are flat and upright but rather balloonlike at the top and above all avoid puffs at the elbows nor must you have wide trimming around the armholes of your bodice yet at the same time be careful not to make your shoulders appear too bread for your hips Study the propor tions of your figure If your body is too short for your height lengthen your waist and wear longskirted bodices if the reverse re-verse accentuate the perpendicular lines of jour skirt and not take from the length by having wide bands of the trimming around the foot If you are short in stature stat-ure be charry of the lon hipped cavalier jacket which is fast gaining ground because be-cause it is the novelty of the moment Hanpily we have stepped out and beyond the limits of old opinions which were so arbitrary as to seem like inscrutable laws Less than a century ago there was but one e buajt Ul Oonncti ann gown Jor each season 1i 4 I 4 ii M7 MJ i 4i 1 i tAt Irl Q I EMBIIOJDEnED CLOTH JACKET and every woman dressed her hair exactly os her neighbor did Fabrics have one and all made their en tree and we aro now thoroughly familiar ized with them Brocades form a large de partment by themselves and the newest and richest show a satin ground work with a detached flower in velvet in relief These are predicted as the material of the next few months and are to be had in the most beautiful colorings ana designs either of several shades or interwoven with gold and silver Among the richest is shell pink moire and white and gold brocade in wide alternate stripes also a black satin ground scattered withsingle cornflowers in their natural colors and a white silk with a large pattern in apple green A still newer idea is bengaline with a conventional de sign of largo < and lozengeshaped spots of umvii vcivui v ale au luit ib Uufi Oi the novel colors brocaded with flower sprays of coffeecolored velvet in relief For the quiet taste not indifferent to ele pance stormysky1 gray is a peculiar tint much admired in relief designs for which white and silver are much employed The silk department crowded to excess with all the seasons styles ben a1ine8 faille Franchise and Lyons velvets being the most fashionable of the plain fabrics velvet and brocade are much combined velvet for the bodice or coat and brocade for the skirt which is invariably severe in its lines Go wtere you will tweeds of almost every conceivable color thickness and quality meet the eye and for the mc ment may be saia o reign supremo over any other fabric and they make the smartest of strtt crowns and coats and have additional aavantage o requiring little trimming merely braids and passe menterie 5 There is however very little if any change in the style of making and good taste is displayed by clinging to the simple mode of the last few months viz the plain sheath skirt and welJcut bodice adorned only by a row of buttons in front with long narrow habit back Oldfashioned drop dc safe is revived this season with brilliant flowers on a plain ground much light and brilliancy being xmnarted by gold and silver outlinings hi c 1 There are among charming novelties for oung ladies toilettes Scotch plaid surahs which are most useful in combination as well as for sashes chemisetts etc One of the most desirable shades seen in fine wool materials is sea pray its most harmonious associate color being red The newest camelshair fabrics aro expensive ex-pensive but extremely handsome and the shades offered are unlike those of any previous pre-vious importation There are what may be called halftones of blue and green plum and mulberry purples and soft tan almond and biscuit shades which combine so handsomely with velvet Among the latest importations are a large numbar of combination dressesthese consisting con-sisting of so many yards of plain and so many of fancy materials which aro likely to be quite the rage There is generally sufficient of the fancy fabric to make the I fronts of the skirt or side panels and an additional quantity of a very narrow width to serve as a bodice trimming Many of the more expensive lengths are bordered with a sort of astrachan woven apparently with the material cut Into various shapes such as Yandyke points hearts and other designs j above and between these being filled in with heavy nikon embroidery either in mixed self colors or black An extremely stylish walking costume is i of black serge and white cloth the sKirt made in large boxplaitings placed at intervals inter-vals on a foundation of white cloth with equal spaces of the latter showing between I the plaits the white being covered from waist to hem with a lattice work made of A IMPORTED HAT I gold braid In several widths For the up per part there is a trim little coat of serge over vest of white cloth braided the same as the skirt and the sleeve of black is cutaway cut-away at tho inner seam from the elbow downwards to show an insertion of braided white cloth To complete this there is a toque of poppyred velvet flat to the head L with a blackbird on top A gown recently arrived from Paris eel tainly bears the cachet of an artists touch I It is of faced cloth is a shade which can only be described as cinnamon dashed with pink The skirt of cloth is slightly draped and has round the hem a border formed of a band of cinnamon satin brocaded with a large conventional design of black velvet and the long jacket entirely of the cloth with revers of the same opens over a tightlyfitting cuirasse bodice of the broche velvet which fastens down the back and well over the hips and the gauntlet cuffs are also of velvet The handsome breakfast gown illustrated is made of pale viouxrose cashmere cut en princesse the whole front falling in folds from the neck and confined below the waist with a slanting band of mossgreen velvet vailed with creamy guipure point I lace A sort of Figaro jacket comes from the underarm seams and meets just across the bust The Medici collar is of the lace over vel vet and a deep cuff of the same reaches nearly to the elbow the sleeve above it being very wide JBB siyubu uat also iiiustratea is one or the highest novelties The crown is of stonecolored velvet with rim of turquoise blue and the stones are set in the embroidery embroid-ery according to the present mode The feathers are of stone and turquoise blue An uptown furrier has como to the rescue res-cue of those who have short shoulder capes of fur either seal or mink and which do not fill the requirements of the present mode He has designed corselet bodicies of fur which added to cuffs and the short capes afford tho necessary protection to the body Polonaises of cloth worn over petticoats of velvet are fashionable again after a ban ishment of several years LETOILE |