Show ABOUT THE FASHIONS Long Cloaks are Covering All Pretty Street Gowns THE BIG SASH STILL FLOURISHES A House Gown In Three Sections Fancy Sleeves Are Growing Still More Fanciful For THE SUNDAY HERALD Copyrighted At the last Sorosis dinner it was noticed and commented upon that the intellectual ladies who compose that organization wero clad in remarkably fanciful gowns There was dear Marion Harland whom sve have known and loved in all stages of our existence from tho days when she propounded pro-pounded recipes to ease babyhoods disorders disord-ers to the later years when her cook books and story books afforded entertainment and solace for hours of industry and hours of ease Marion Harland is no longer a young woman but she has ayoung manner and is young at heart and so no one was surprised to see her at Sorosis In a beautiful dark gown with fanciful sleeves and a suspicion of a sash The sash was not a ribbon one It was made of passementorie and was put on in braided shape so that there was a dignity about It as well as a certain amount of stylo The sleeves were very fully trimmed with ribbons which stood out so as to give a pleasing fullness to tho arm Marions address was full of all the good advice that she knows so well how to give tho young women and it touched upon homo topics in a true Marion Harland way a i lbr 1 B 4 ihithlj 1 yu 134 N t tl y t Sri I i t I 1l 1 y t 1 I r TWO SOROSIS GOWNS Before her upon the richly cushioned spats sat representatives of all classes ol New York work and New York society There wero tho theatrical women literary womon and society women There wero women doctors women lawyers and women philanthropists Let no one suppose that these intellectual creatures who are striving to put life upon n higher plane aro neglectful of the conventional con-ventional methods of displaying progress and culture In other words they knew how to dress wellalmost to a woman The beauteous and beloved Ella Diet Clyiner who is always remarkable for odd gowns wore one which was unusually beautiful even for THIS DISCIPLE OF ESTHETIC BEAUTY It was a trained gown with a plain front nnd a brocaded back The sleeves wero fuJI and of the style known as flowing t with tight sleeves underneath There was somo rich old lace at the throat and wrists and various ornaments odd and unique for the collection of which Mrs Clymer is justly famed At an afternoon tea at which chocolate was served however instead of tea tho pretty young hostess surprised her guests by appearing in a gown which might bo described de-scribed asbeing in section Tho sections were divided by a quaint kind of jewelry which is found among imported Turkish ware The jewels consisted each of a medallion me-dallion about the size nickel Bird like figures were outlined against them and they were fastened to each other with shining shin-ing rosettes A chain of these done in gold and black enamel formed the outline for a yoke upon the gown tho color of which was a deep shade of turquoise blue P t f e 1 Ott t I r s 1 i I t I r 1 r 1 g 4 THE CHOCOLATE GOWN A double row of the medallions led from the yoke around under the side seams and a pointed girdle of them took the placo of a belt Full open sleeves lined with shell pink satin fell almost to the foot of tho dress and the pink satin was used in the cordings for the neck and sleeves I Fancy sleeves are still very popular They are not puffed quite as high upon the shoulders as they were but they are main ma-in more fanciful designs than ever Young Mrs Astor who is now engaged in receiving congratulatory calls upon tho birth of a son and heir to the family of Astor is specially partial to very full puffed sleeves with deep cuffs Mrs Astor is very slender and tho full sleeves aro quite becoming to her One of the prettiest gowns recently sent home to tnls lady was of a pale shade iof I heliotrope with a train of brocaded material mate-rial of the same hue At the neck there was a deep Vandyke trimming m gold braid and the sleeves were likewise trimmed with this matarial Tho crowning artistic achievement of the gown however was found in the sash which was composea of a deep shade sbof orange satin It was laid around the waist in folds three or four deep and a huge bow of it fastened at the side with long ends hanging to the lioor It was extremely becoming be-coming to its slender wearer and Mrs Astor looks very interesting and very pretty as she receives her guests in her grand drawing room with her baby nearby near-by held in the arms of a white capped nurse People have not yet done talking of the I MAGXiriCRXT THOUSSEAU I of Mrs Marshall O Roberts when she I married Colonel Vivian No less than seven now cloaks were added to Mrs Roberts Rob-erts wardrobe and Mrs Roberts as she will continue to be called by her American friends personally superintenced the mak ing of each one A privileged mortal who was permitted to see these marvelous cloaks before they bad ever been worn by their gold Boooned owner gave the palm of beauty to E that ono which was n beautful combination combina-tion of dark green broadcloth and Russian I sable Tho cloak was tight fitting and narrow in the skirt A huge sable collar towered up above the ears of tho wearer and deep cuffs of table were so adjusted to tho gown that when the hands wero clasped the cuffs appeared like a muff Abroad A-broad band of sable extended all the way down tho front of tho cloak tapering slightly at the waist to give the effect of I slenderness which it might otherwise lac lackThis This trimming with fur is a wonderfully wonder-fully delicate thing to do said a dressmaker dress-maker recently It looks very simple after it is done but it is the highest knack of the dressmakers art to put it on just as it should be A broad band of fur down tho front of the dress is awkward and makes a womans waist look twice as largo as it should look A narrow band looks stingy and so you see that to get Iton just right requires an artist Mrs Roberts fur cloaks aro every ono in tho heighth of artistic perfection and no one doubts the lady when she says that she always employs a real artist to design her cloaks and gowns 1 i 3E 4FM4 + If 1 i Jt p 7 THE PRETTIEST CLOAK OT ALL One might almost venture to say that a mania for wearing heads is subsiding The reason for this conclusion is based upon the fact that one occasionally sees a new cloak now without any fur heads at all upon it Very largo antique clasps are used to hook the collar and to fasten the oloak at tho waist in tho majority of cases but very many of the latest importation of cloaks are closed by means of invisible hooks and eyes The Audubon people have been making such a flurry and such a stir in polite society so-ciety both here and abroad that it is rather surprising to note the fact that plumage is still fashionable The Audubon ladies set about banishing bird wings from millinery this year with a force and gusto quite unknown in the history of their society so-ciety WIth great worldly wisdom they set about getting the patronage of royalty and the success of their judgment Is shown by the fact that there were actually fewer gulls shot this year than over before Tho Princess Louise the Duchess of Fife and even the pretty Princess Wales lent their encouragement to this movement and it looked for a short time as if birds wings were to adorn members of the feathered tribe only dt But American women have not that great veneration and respect for royalty which their foreign sisters have and so THEY POOHPOOHED THK IDEA of giving up birds wings just because tho Duchess of Fife approved of it and they saucily inquired what in the world Princess Louise had to say about the propriety of the wearing of murdered blackbi Is upon other womens hats And so birus wings birds feathers birds heads and birds plumage of all kinds are just about as plentiful plen-tiful as they ever wore It is interesting to know that the Audu bon ladies do not object to ostrich feather trimmings because they reason that to obtain ostrich feathers it is not necessary to kill the birds But isnt it really carrying tho idea of preserving life a little too far when one goes so far as to object to the killing of birds for ornament Think if this idea were consistently carried out how inconvenient incon-venient it would be There would be no more kid gloves because it would bo wicked to kill kids and kid gloves aro not really necessary you know There would be no heads or tails for fur trimmings and indeed if one were pe urr fectly consistent one would be unwilling to wear fur at all unless it were made up in the plain style of wrap so that on no account could it be laid open to the indictment indict-ment of being used for other purposes than warmth and warmth only A leading milliner who imports all her hats and who boasts that she Has not a hat in her stock which retails for less than 35 was bemoaning the fact that it is so easy Just at present to achieve ones own millinery millin-ery effects Take those broad brimmed hats with the soft crowns for example she said They are very simple to make You cover the brim with velvet and then make a big loose caplike crown out of another piece of velvet trim it with a few standing feathers and the hat is according the latest freak of fashion Any ladys maid I can easily make such a hat in half a day and there behold I my lady is provided with a new hat quite as fashionable as 1 could make for her and which costs a trif ling sum of3 or 54 It is really terribly annoying and I for one shall be very glad when these hats go out of style It is quite different with turbans al though they look much simpler to make But to trim a turban properly takes a mil liner because the style is severe and tho outline is sharp Therefore it must bo softened with trimming and given the proper touches here and there or it will not I bo becoming Anyone can make a big gib orate hat but it takes a milliner to do he I small simple ones properly Of course you are wearing a sash with your evening gowns and your dinner dresses But if you are not just go to your dealer and procure a plecea whole piece of ribbon about four inches wide to match your gown Make it into a bow with two very short upright loops and two very long ends that will hang way to the end of your train Fasten the ribbon on just be tween the shoulders Tack the ends at two or three places in their length BO as to keep them in place without appearing stand iff st-and 101 I you have your sash and you may be sure that you are quite fashionable |