| Show I MAKING A TAILORED BLOUSE urn HOSE tailored blouses are arc so GO T smart I r should love to have haye one but If I buy one of a good quality of at linen already made thc they are SI so c expensive that I will not be able to afford more moro than one blouse this season and I need several If It I could only make one myself Insel And the tho little woman who stood next to me at the counter where linen shirtwaists were ere sold sighed deeply as she caressingly smoothed the cd crisp p folds of or the smart tailored blouse she so much admired ed Do you ou make maJe your our own blou blouses I inquired Yes she said but I have hav always been I to attempt a tailored model thc they look Jook so hard to make I am afraid I could not put on the tho cuffs the tho collar- collar band and the yoke yol properly This one ono has tucks in tho front I ont I know I never could get them right So while I waited waited wait wait- ell ed for formy m my change I explained to her Just how hO hOto to go about the making of a a. tailored blouse First I aid select a n. fine close lose woven wo linen not too heavy but one that that will take the starch nicely when whon It Is laundered then be before ole you cut Into It soak It overnight in cold water let It get almost dry then iron It out smooth until It Il Is perfectly dry This shrinks tho the linen so that it can be made mado up without fear tear of or shrinking the first time it is la laundered 1 No Now measure off oft the lengths of at the two fronts Leave this in one piece allow a two inch margin on one side Elde for toi tho the box pleat and tuck the material In Inthe Inthe inthe the size tucks tudes you rou want want ono one Inch or orone orone orone one and a Do half halt is tho the m most moat t popular width This done doge measure off oft a length for the tho back and tuck that or If Ie you wish leave leae It plain and add a a. yoke like this one has Of or course you must purchase a a. pattern pattern pattern pat pat- tern the tho size that will fit you vo then follow follow tollo fol tol- fol- fol low lo- lothe the directions on the wrapper as to the proper W way to la lay the pattern on the material Pin Imn It firmly in place and cut cutout out being careful to mark the tho material with notches as Is 19 the pattern Double the tucked tuc mat material for for the fronts and lay tho the pattern on it so that the first tuck will Ill H he be about one Inch awa away from the box pleat when It is put on not tin not one inch from rl-om the edgo edge of ot the pattern understand but an Inch from the box pleat The pleat Is In made separate separate sepa sepa- rate from tram the waist and stitched In lace olace ace after the has h ei t d J 1 Then the back and sleeves slee are cut and from tram the pieces left come the cults cuffs yoke collar coHar box hox pleat and belt Cut the neckband collar and cuffs double the cuffs curts should have an Interlining interlining Inter Inter- lining of or heavy y linen that has been shrunken before using Now baste shoulder and underarm seams taking up one half Inch and matching the notches but make mako tho the shoulder seam on the right side Instead of on the tho therong wrong rong It If you OU are u using the yoke ole Try the blouse on and If It there aro are an any alterations to make mako In the fit of ot tho the garment they can easily be made at this time Ume Pin a tape around the waist line Une over tho the blouse and to this tape pin In tho the blouse In place around the waist ar arranging arranging ar- ar ranging the fullness In the tho center of at the tho back and a little to each side of or the th center of at the front The box pleat Is Is' then pinned on This of ot course la Js just a a. strip three Inches m wide turned turned- i in one half inch on each edge and placed on the right-hand right side of at the front This done slip tho the waist alst off are and ond stitch tho the seams in place but first If It you are using the yoke yol that must be basted in place on th tho ba back k along the thelow low lower r edge and the shoulder scam left open so that It can b bo be turned in and stitched to cover the tho seam of or the tho waist on the shoulder that Is turned back to slip under the yoke Should the armhole be too large targe take the underarm under seam In a little and If It the neck has the same fault take It up upon upon upon on the shoulders Th These se dor defects ts you OU will have tp te overcome o when fitting the first time then If It all is 19 well you youcan youcan youcan can stitch tho the seams making a French seam eam under tho the arm ann that is Is stitch a acry avery avery very cry narrow seam on the right side and turning It stitch a wider seam cam on tho the wrong wrong wrong- side so 80 as to take in the tho edges of ot the narrow seam Tho tape Is basted In place and stitched on both edges and the bottom of or the waist alst is finished with a IJ narrow hem ow the neckband must b be 00 ad- ad ad ad- If It the standing or stir stiff collar Is to be bo worn lay the tho neckband sections with lh the right sides together and stitch along alons- the thc top edge then turn it right side out and baste one edge the edge the inner one one one-In In place around tho the neck of ot the blouse Tr Try on th the blouse and see that the fits well wen then turn Inthe in inthe the tho outer edge edse and stitch In place Pace The sleeves es are slashed at the Indications Indica tIo marked on OU the pattern Finish the tho if back edges In the slash with Ith an under under- lap one half inch wide completed and the front edge edgo with the overlap of at the pattern Sew Sow this shorter side of the tha plash lash In a very narrow seam with the edges on the rI right ht side then turn the lap hip over and baste it fiat flat to the sleeve finishing the edges n neatly making a a. good point at the top Stitch the thc sleeve seam trenched Then gather the lower loner edge each side of th the slash Tho The cuffs curts are then made ready read to attach to the sleeve placing placing- the right el sides Bides cs together and tho the Interlining against one of at them along the to lower er edge edgo and ends and then turn the cuff curt right side Ride out Stitch tho the outer edge of at the cuff and tho the Interlining t to the lower edge edle of the sleeve Baste the he inside section in place run TUn a stitching all around the cuff curr and nd J run run another stitching across tho the top a s. J little below the tho other J Baste Basta tho the sh sleeve o c Into nto the the armhole with the notches matching try on andlee and lee if the they set all right then stitch inand in inand and Dei bind with a a. narrow bias blu strip of linen Stitch the little hatch catch D Docket rocket on tho tt left Jett side of the front if It you fOU are Ue area mal mala x a plain plain front front waist There you have havo It and It Is fie no nohar hard har after all aU is It lU s 7 a aNo No No beamed the t-he little woman t shall gO go right home and make on on one myself after alter I purchase chase a pattern f have a large linen b bolster lster case that fl the mothers mother's that will wUl be pe e Just practice on Thank you so 90 much telling me el h how hox o x to do o it G Go Thank you rou 3 apaL- apaL L' L h l I r |
