| Show i ye y t LL I R j 9 e. e 1 f N H AY t l 1 f r 1 II i s M. M J 7 re r. r 1 t ty 1 2 r 4 u t a y l' l dy dyt 1 h fay M 4 t 5 f 4 S f 4 y y p I l' l y Y 2 F t 1 LSD w r 1 y tr Ip T en t t. t s r e.- e. I k 1 I r u K 1 J YS y ti art e h. h y E i r ti tiE 4 r rI I r U J J i. i DISTINCTIVE STYLE 0 i IN FALL BLOUSES S Ii Satin atin tin the Blouse Material M Material Par Excellence Few Few Tub Models Seen Except for Outing Use Use Amber Amber Buttons the New Fr French Note Note Models Control the Blouse Situa- Situa Collars ion Collars and Sleeves Most Picturesque and Becoming 3 i in n a chat t two to o weeks ago about new tailored tailored 1 tallor d wear It AS was as shown that t iMon lon now has taken the dy as a model and patterned wom- wom tho and andIsh andIsh autumn raiment on Sl say gay Ish Ish attire of ot beaux of ot tho thoi i 1 t. t If It the new nc coats arc dandified dandified- cording to standards the standards the thew w blouses are nrc e even en more moro so so and lady ady dr of ot the moment Is a a. veritable au u u Brummel el or young youn of ot nee ance with her trimly buttoned satin rt cuffed at the wrist and frilled ate at nt ate e e front with Just lust the sort of ot cuffs cutts frills that tho the dandy of the it oar ay affected tin Is the fabric for the fall tall falland falland and b by tho the wa way blouse Is In- In act rei to be really up to tho the minute r one must sa say shirt no matter mattert at t t ones one's bodice is built of or how howay howy ay y frills and laces adorn It Tho The K shirt then is of ot satin or of ot satin Bed ed with net or chiffon chiffon chiffon-chiffon chiffon be bc- bc t tho the favorite fa And this chiffon why wh why should ono not say SM as well welt as undershirt ls undershirt Is ali aly alys al- al y ys i laid In tucks or pleats gathers completely out of ot style it seems e pleats are not narrow pin affairs her er er but are lre one or two or even oven he ee e Inches broad three of these ltd id d pleats set close to together ether often otten rine eting the space paco between armhole front opening Tho pleats arc are shed chell all tho the wa way down and are arc not to add ad fullness across the thethis i this Is it effected b by a clever slant- slant cut cut t which seems to he the secret he French Hi 1 the new shirts have havo Ion long sleeves woman who has been hoping hope that this might not be bo bet t that the sleeved long blouses blous s er over carl early in the summer were summer were a tentative style feature Introduced he e sake of ot variety varlet must bow with Meter ter grace she he may to the time long- long q edict for the tho elbow sleeve is to be bo permitted in the tho ranks of ot and aristocratic tic blouses ex except except ex- ex for tor most informal the around-the- hon house o wear or for autumn outing and athletic use An elbow sleeve moreover more- more I over O would quite spoil the dandified shirt which owes much of its character to Its overhanging o shoulder shoulder shoulder der and Ion long wrinkled rink led sleeve set into the armhole somewhere between elbow and top of arm These long shoulder lines lIns require a n. special cut else It t would be Impossible to raise the arms in such sucha a blouse The top of the blouse and upper sleeve are arc cut In kimono fashion and a diamond shaped J gusset ie inserted insert Insert- ed underneath where arm joins dei der Then tho the straight long Is attached to the kimono upper upper-sleeve and its lower edge edgo is slashed and fastened fastened fastened fas fas- with hooks and eyes ejes or tiny buttons buttons buttons but but- tons and buttonholes so that tho the fit around the w waist will be trim and close Sometimes the tho lower loer edge edg-e is slashed way away a to show a wedge-shaped wedge buttoned buttoned buttoned but but- toned cuff cut of lace or tucked net Again th the long wrinkled sleeve Is finished with a turned back satin cuff which also x wrinkles with the soft sleeve over the wrist In fact tact the thc sleeve once brought into fashion b- b by Madame Sarah Bernhardt to conceal too slender lines of arm Is fast reappearing reappearing reap reap- at nt the forefront of ot tho the mode modo White satin waists are exquisitely dainty but it is to be bo feared that tho the daintiness cf et c such a a. waist will be ver very evanescent and a soiled white whito satin waist is oven worse than a soiled hagene lingerie lin ha- gene gerie model So only tho the woman who can afford the some somewhat what high cost of constant dry cleaning may Indulge in white satin fall tan shirts unless shirts unless she sho cares to do do them up up There Thero I lb Is a special washable satin that comes comes for these white waists but the tho best of ot tub satins must be handled with ex extreme extreme ex- ex caro care If it is to survive even en one laundering and retain its pristine luster luster luster lus lus- ter and richness of ot texture Trust It to 10 the average laundress and it will wUl come back still soft BOt and still glossy 1088 but with a thin limp softness pathetic pathetic- I ally unlike the rich rich softness of ot Its unwashed unwashed unwashed un un- washed beauty and with a gloss glosa that thatIs Is unmistakably the gloss of ot the flat flat- I iron Wash Nash the washable satin in soft I wa water tor and nd a suds of ot pure white soap i Wring it not and rub it not but rinse in several pral clear cool waters and iron when almost dry with an Iron not too toe hot using a bit of ot thin muslin between the tho satin and the iron So on only I will you jou save sa the tho luster and the tho texture of ot the white satin shirt A new white satin shirt by has hns a n novel I effect at tho the neck The shirt is perfectly perfectly perfectly per per- plain with glass buttons down the tho front and long sleeves set Into corded armholes There is a a. rolling collar high at the tho back I and nd opening In a a. deep V that reaches re to the bust In the V is set a tucker of tinted flesh-tinted chiffon that at a little distance looks like tho the bare neck These white satin shirts are worn with smart coat t and shirt suits of ot worsted whipcord and fabric fabric fabric-a. a worsted and mohair weave much fancied in Paris for tor lightweight autumn suits The skirt is no longer cut in tho the hl h- h effect obviating the necessity of oC a no belt for Just now tho the bolt belt Is a n. avery avery very smart feature of oC the shirt and skirt combination Patent leather and suede belts aro worn with various ornamental or- or buckles and elides and aud the width of ot the bolt Is proportioned to the requirements of ot the figure figuie The long long- slender woman may wear t a 1 adark dark leather lether belt with a a. white satin shirt and a dark skirt but tho the short or select a n. belt Kelt of ot white suede or buck- buck thick woman will do well to skin with a buckle o of white pearl Simple satin blouses in darker hue are read ready for tor wear with tho the same tailored suits and though the lines of or these new blouses are arc almost severe many buttons and a n. certain daring of ot cut make them very modish and ga gay gaj The colors harmonize with coat and skirt suits but aro are deep and andrich andrich rich to add a charming color touch to the costume Mulberry a warm ann olive brown golden tan blue blue- violet lolet and a a. clear bright navy aro are the thc favorites and with of ot black and rows of ot dull metal buttons on cuffs front and even seam arm these satin skirts for tor fall faU arc exceedingly lY charming There is also a penchant for gray ra and satin blouses these having usually corded of or the thc material an and l buttons of ot pearl or gun un metal in to demure subdued effect To 10 have an any coquetry at all the tho Gra gray blouse must bo be part of an gray all costume for Cor gray ra with any other color Is apt to be bo disastrous dis lIs- and gray ray with Uh black suggests mourning half A fair hatred haired young oung woman lunching at Sherry's last week r was delectably clad in a 3 dashing little cutaway coat suit of ot smoky gray per- per mo fabric the coat having ln many white pearl buttons and tho skirt being beins be- be Ing ins slashed tho least bit in a a. deop deep scallop to show a n. dainty buttoned boot of ot gray gra suede The opened coat front revealed a gray satin shirt In a J. J much paler p gray shade shado which harmonized l perfectly with tho smoke color This blouse was stitched conspicuously with white and buttoned down the front with about three dozen white pearl glove Iove buttons set close together Like all tho now fall blouses this model bore boreI I the dashing collar opening opening open open- ing in front to show the tho throat These open collars collare with the Ion long tight fitting sleeves make malto the now blouses ex extremely extremely extremely ex- ex picturesque and becoming Sheer blouses for tor autumn wear ear are of ot soft sott mulls and embroidered with huge scallops done In hoa heavy silks An embroidered dotted swiss blouse of ot this sort worn with Ith a L dull blue worsted suit BUit at a a. late summer horse horseshow horseshow show had a 8 collar and cuffs cutts of at white ag and the buttons down the front were of ot glass with turquoise enamel centers Link cuff buttons to match finished the tho long sleeves ee Tho The smart tailored suit Bult was accompanied by patent patent patent pat pat- ent leather boots with buttoned tops of or cloth to match I I Chiffon blouses laid In In tucks tuck and having havIng having hav hav- ing the tucks stitched conspicuously in contrasting color aro are a fall notion A navy blue chiffon model by Beer Deer has groups of ot tiny Uny tucks stitched in white and a a. white satin collar and cuffs curts trimmed with i white satin buttons 1 WRITE WHITE SATIN BLOUSE SHOWING NEW XE SHOULDER JINE Reminiscent of OC the sixties is tho the drooping shoulder with sleeve set In just above tho the elbow This new autumn autumn autumn au au- blouse a white hUe satin tailored model with in tan color shows tho the quaint long long- shoulder and a novel sleeve laid in a box pleat at atthe atthe the tho upper part the lower part being cleverly tapered to a close fit tit b by a sloping panel cut This blouse is 18 generously generously gen gen- trimmed with tho the small amber ambor colored buttons which are a craze this fall tall tho the amber silk stitching on the white satin matching the tho buttons The Tho collar is piped at the edge ee with amber colored taffeta CHINESE EMBROIDERY E ON OX THIS TillS Though somewhat striking in Its exceeding exceeding ex ex- difference from the blouses ono one has become accustomed to In the past f tow few w seasons this white satin model b by Is la chic to a a. de do- do I gree rec In fact It H is more conspicuously modish than any blouse on toda today's s page It has the exaggerated collar collar collar col col- lar long long- longn n wrinkled sleeve sot Bet into a a. low armhole tho the up down rever buttons buttons buttons but but- tons down the front and huge frills trills approved by fashion and is to the last stitch On tho the revers rever are Chinese embroideries in rich s shades ades of ot blue and tan and the amber buttons repeat the tho tan shade In the er ery This blouse has been built bunt to accompany any tho the going away awa away suit of ot tobacco brown fabrica fabric fabric- a n. wool and mohair mixture Ideal for tor autumn wear and patent leather boots boote with buttoned tops of ot tobacco brown cloth Y YA A G LI LINGERIE MODE ODEl I IX IN WHITE JUTE AX AMI ANI PINK This little blouse soft loft and fine lino asa as asa a n. breath is Intended for tor autumn golfIng golfing golf golf- Ing or outing wear under a a. smart Mackinaw coat or sweater It Is built buill of ot fine tine handkerchief linen pure linen pure white with Ith narrow pleated pleat pleat- ed cd frills of ot pale pink handkerchief linen outlining collar cuffs cutts and front open- open Ing Tho whole blouse e Is laid aId In wide tucks since tho the material Is Js so 80 thin and soft and tho sleeves slee sot without fullness fullness fullness full full- ness into large armholes father at tho the bottom into straight deep cuffs cuts These cuffs cutts and the front of the blouse fasten with small glass Glaes buttons 4 a FOR Fon AUTUMN AND MATINEE WEAR With her tailored suit of ot serge sere or broadcloth the autumn matinee girl will wear a n. gay gny little blouse In the new style with style with long sleeves es and conspicuous revers and tho the dandified dandl- dandl tIed fled frills trills of ot the period This blouse is 19 of ot brown tucked chiffon over satin a a. vest of the satin turning over in revers at the tho top Under tho the revers are frills of ot shadow lace laco in jabot effect Tho The not Is set In the opening opening- between the thc revers rovers and tho the satin vest est buttons with amber buttons Tho sleeves are aro excessively long long- and wrinkle on on the arm 1 t lA S 5 SA A PRACTICAL J. MODISH J JEVERY IN EVERY DETAIL Built of or dark grey re this simple cut blouse Is just jUt what the average a woman will need for tor autumn wear weal with a a. tailored suit The blouse pictured was designed l to accompany a fall traveling costume of ot black and whito whipcord worn orn with a n black block and white hat and und patent leather boots a white bite buttoned tops of oC calf calt The Time Foolish Fear of ot Being Laughed At keeps Man Many a Man Ian in the Ruck Huck |