| Show r THE HE VALUE VALliE OF DETAIL 1 t VERY VERr successful dressmaker understands understands uni un- un E i t the value of or careful def de- de f tall In Indifferent finish Js Is bound to otherwise good work A cheap grade of at hooks and eyes cres or snap fasteners fas fis- fasteners fisten ten rs for fob example ar are clumsily shaped and should never nc be selected b by bythe the home dressmaker who takes pride In tn the fit and set Bet of or her work The finishing of seams scams stitching and placket fastenings very often orten s stamp amp a ago go gown as being made b by an amateur when every other part of It is lg stylish and end well wen fitting mUng I have e often orten seen very smart-looking smart s that ha have havo appeared tal tat try 1 enough excepting for the buttonholes buttonholes buttonholes button button- holes but once you caught t sight of or these you ou knew they were cre worked by bp bythe bythe the r rankest novice A well made buttonhole should bo perfectly perfectly- flat and the edges should lie close lose together touching each each other when hen hen unbuttoned The end of at the but buttonhole put put- toward the outer edge of at the box plea pleat should be rounded while the theother theother theother other end should be drawn close to together tor to- to r ether gether with a few stitches worked over o overe arid e d over Buttonholes should not be bew worked w with too coarse thread This Is Isi i mistake that many dressmakers make ml tho the result is a a 3 thick look clumsy fn buttonhole that gapes apart like a aVig's pigs pig's eye always eye always open Us Use medium fine waxed thread single noi never er doubled doubted doubted dou dou- bled and begin to work worl at atthe the tho end of at the tho be hole furthest from tho the edge go of at the material Then take the stitches very er t close together the Ule width of or the thread apart apart and and a a. little less ess than an eighth of or an anInch inch away from the openings opening Work straight ahead until you reach the other end of the opening then work around it t as ns you would if making an eye eyelet et Now continue continuo to the starting point and when when you reach It take three or four stitches over the end end and secure tho the thread ad on the wrong wrong side before cutting cutting cut cut- ting It lu c An Important point to observe while working Is to keep the tho cut edge close together then you will have haTe no trouble with a a. gaping eye When buttonholes are arc cut parallel to the the edge of at the material begin at nt the lower lo end of at the cut edge to work When cn sewing on hooks and eyes ces be f lire ure re that tho the bill bUt of the hook book 1 Is placed wt at t least a a. quarter of an inch back from ute the edge cf of the goods Then sew them fast east with double waxed thread catchIng catchIng catch- catch Ing lug It through the loops for tor that purpose purpose pur pur- pose pos and two or three stitches under the bill so that It- It not work loose at the edge The eye eo must bo be pl placed placeda ed a T quarter of on nn ctrl inch back from tho the edge and sewed d down fiat flat The Thc raw ray edges of oC seams should be either cither bound with thin silk seam bind lug InS or or 01 carefully pinked on the edges by snipping them In little V-shaped V pieces pie with the scissors If It you OU are working with Ith mater material al that frays easily uch as ai serge and some of ot the loosely woven J and woolen materials all n seams should 1 be overcast or whipped on the edge The armholes of an unlined waist alst should b be bound aId those thO of at a lined bodice whipped w If lt aft an Inside bolt belt la Is used to hold tho the bodice e down at the waist line attach It Jt to tho the Inner seams at the back with the thep p worked in silk Sew shields in under the tho arms arm by catching them tightly at each end to the sleeve scam and In the tha cent center r of oC the lower portion next tet the waist to the edge of ot the un un- seam JI J the pl placket so o 0 It will lie ale perI perI per- per I I I I p flat fiat with not the slightest bulge between the hooks Snap fasteners are nrc best to use for tor this purpose They should be sewed ed on carefully without i catchIng catchin catching catch- catch in Ing the stitches through h to the rl right ht side Take Tako this precaution when sewing on skIrt braids An easy wa way to prevent prevent pre pre- vent ent the stitches from tram catching all the wa way through tho the hem hm on a n skirt Is to insert a a. narrow card between the tho material material ma ma- Ial of at the hem and slip it along as you ou work so that you can take a good stitch In in inthe the material yet ct have the card caa prevent the the- needle from going through to the the- right right side A A. A straight facing should be placed on the neck of at a a. low-cut low blouse so that It will not stretch out of at shap shape but If St you ou want a full curve It will be necessary to face the edge edgo with a a. narrow narrow narrow nar nar- row strip of bias material stretched to tofit tofit tofit fit the cu curve rye Take Talie great pains with all handwork k to have e tho stitches small and neat and when stitching BOtching on the machine use the guide that comes for tor that purpose to keep the rows of stitching straight and an equal distance from each other See that every little detail of at the gown Is finished carefully and you OU will willbe willbe be repaid for tor your our trouble b by the praise o of your friends frIend |
