| Show j H P A N c. c r j y t s' s EW tL h L 44 3 w rt r r I r r nth yr r re e 1 r M N rr th M r 7 T 51 1 N f 1 1 J r Cf C f r 4 J J j r H f. f I t i F I f i k 1 n 1 j f f t. 1 1 CHARM OF THE PARIS PARIS HATS HATS Taffeta Moire and Velvet the Favored Fabrics for First Hats Big Picture re Shapes of Soft t Black Velvet Are Ate Trimmed With White White White-F. White Feather Feather eather T Trimmings Slant Rather Than Stick Is Deliciously Chic arid and Up lJJ Straight The Straight The Amazon Shape Dash Dashing Dashing Cornered ng- ng Four Cornered Shapes and Effects Ef- Ef Effects Effects I Especially Favored The Thc lack of ot stiffness stiffness stiffness-of of hard severe se se- seere se- se the first thIng thins that ere vere Is lines lines Is strikes one ono in the millinery Shapes are soft and undulating undulating- drap draped d effects are in especial favor and anil even the large targe blocked hats are BO so flexible that they may be bent and twisted Into pinto all sorts of ot graceful effects At Atthe Atthe the the Fete Des Drags in July many vel- vel ct t and silk hats of ot a distinctly autumn auttumn autumn au- au character hara ter were noted The Tho Pa- Pa makes no marked difference between her winter and summer millinery millinery mil mil- except in the tha sort of ot fabrics used In In Paris one sees straw and h hemp p h headgear ar In lia February an and Velvet velvel Vel Val vet vel chapeaux chapeau begin to appear in raid mid midsummer summer and nd atthe at the Fete Des Drags Drags- or Coaching Para Parade there Parade e there wore were many Interesting creations from authoritative couturiers all couturiers all bespeaking coming fashions Jons for tor falL taffeta and moire silk are be being being be- be ing us used d for these theM first autumn hats chiefly velvet Never were velvet shapes so 80 soft sort and flexible and graceful as the they are now now so o light also Lift one of ot tho the big pIcture shapes of ot soft sort velvet vel vol vet In iri the hand band and you OU feel teel scarcely any weight at alL The big hat seems to be made marIe over crinoline yet in spite of ot Its lightness and crushable texture the thc beautiful shape maintains its Us lines whatever you ou do to it Georgette has brought out a a. new DeW sailor which promises promises prom prom- to be the craze so graceful it is la and ao so youthful is is' its Its' suggestion suggestion-a. a prime consideration as every cery woman knows ws where millinery is concerned This big Georgette sailor is made of ot soft loft black velvet so BO much in favor and the brim curls up up at the back ever everso ao so slightly just just Just enough to prevent that the t hideous r on the the on i shoulder look when the hat Is tipped tipped slightly back back- back back- ward Around the th-c large low crown crown goes a a- draped band of ot white satin finished exactly in front by a small I pert pleated bow which rests on th the e brim near the base of ot th the crown Poised at the top of the white satin band also directly in front aro are two smart little white mercury wings which slant outward to toward ard the side This sailor was represented by three models at the Fete Des Drags and two of ot the sailors were of black velvet with the white satin and wing trimming White trimmings on black hats areto areto are aro to be the grand chic chic so so the tho milliners say and say and along with this notion travels the fad tad for picot-edged picot ribbon In black and white A tailored hat for the first fall tall wear has been designed by to accompany an autumn going away costume of ot black and white whipcord and nd the striking thing about the th rattier rather r simple girlish hat in is the trimming of ot white ribbon h hiving having a black picot edge A band of ot the rI ribbon bon binds the edge of ot the brim and a smart bow of ot It it slants Blants backward at nt one side aide of or the crown By B the bye b e all hat trimmings slant now instead of ot rearing aloft in what hat the milliners call a up stick fashion Tho The more tho the bow t feather ather quill or aigrette slants the more chic the hat Some of ot the tho French models are rakishly poised on the head an outward outward out out- wl ward d standing aigrette forming a right rightangle rightangle angle angl with the tho slant of ot the hat at one side Another hat trimmed with picot ribbon is a blocked affair of or soft sott gray gray- blue felt The ribbon is blue with a t. t white picot edge and a wide band of ot it binds the edge of or tho the up rolled-up brim This brim is caught back a a. little to one side of the front fro under a loose twisted knot of or the hc ribbon n through which la is stuck a long tong white ostrich quill Accompanying Accompanying Accompanying Ac Ac- companying a suit of ot navy blue blua serge with white gloves and black patent leather boots having button side gaiter tops of or blue cloth this simple tailored hat will be Immensely chic chlo Paradise aigrettes alg will be th the ultra- ultra trimming this autumn without a shade of doubt because the tIle price of paradise having mounted with decided leaps and bounds this trimming trimming trim trim- ming Is now expensive enough to be exclusive to a n degree Coque pompons pompon that curl downward around the edge of the brim are arc being used b by some sorno pt or of orthe the French milliners with good effect t a Un tiny model by Maria Gu Guy with this coque trimming being particularly in In- In Th This Is dainty t little lit tIo Maria Guy hat is copied from the almost grotesquely grotesquely gro gro- small Second Empire turbans which are arc rakishly poised on th the head a 0 feather curling coquettishly downward downward downward down down- ward over O one car The little hats are in or or neat nest effect effect and are aro made of soft sort materials wound round and round though a definite brim and crown are usually sug suggested ested by the drapery draper A particularly pretty Maria Marla GU Guy model is 18 of ot draped white hite velvet with a facing of ot black velvet part wa way up the brim and a a. curling coque pompon pompon pompon pom pom- pon falling over the right side near the tho back Tho The Amazon shapo shape is another of ot tho the almost grotesquely small styles which divide honors wi with th the big picturesque types This Amazon shape Is elongated ed from front to back and Is set sat rather rather rath rath- er far tar hack on the head the brim having havIng having hav hav- ing a a. backward roll and the trimming poised at the center also front front also slanting toward the back This hate hato is not becoming to all women It requires a a a. chic well-groomed well coiffure and a a. piquant rather than pretty face to tomake tomake tomake make it s as AS' AS smart and dashing as as' It should be A woman lunching at the Ritz the other day wore one ne of these ga gay little Amazon hats made of or white moire silk and navy blue velvet The blue velvet crown curled up at either side toward the stiff blocked crown of white moire and directly at the center front covering the crown at that point was a a. flat bow of ot the moire silk finely finely finely fine fine- ly pleated Two mercury wings of ot white tipped with blue slanted backward backward backward back back- ward from the bow A blue suit of penno fabric fabric s. a worsted and mohair weave much favored these days in Paris ParIs accompanied accompanied the Amazon hat Tho coat buttoned up trimly in cutaway cutaway cutaway cuta cuta- way style and had a wide rolling collar The neck Deck was dressed in a a avery very high trimly boned bone stock of ot white lace and long IonS seed pearl earrings just earrings just now DOW the craze In Paris gave Paris gave the finishing touch of or cachet Beneath the thel new pleated skirt of ot the penno suit peeped out black leather buttoned oxfords worn with navy silk stockings clocked with white It was a typically French costume perfectly demure and simple In color scheme but inexpressibly chic ichic in perfection perfection perfection per per- of ot detail and slight e exaggeration exaggeration tion of ot style Ribbon promises to be a prime favorite favorite favor tavor- ite Itc for tor first t fall tall hats and one ono may use anywhere re from four yards down to a quarter of or a yard ard for a n modish bow Some of tho the new and quat- quat corne shapes nc need but a a. tiny of stiff grosgrain ribbon to complete their and thera thora are other shapes which will wUl stand a huge bow of or tho the charming plaid taffeta ribbon or of ot picot edged ribbon in two-color two effect The young woman who wants to make malte ready a smart first ha hat t for wear with her tailored suit will be b sure to strike the tho right note if she selects a simple smart shape of black velvet and trims it With Ith a wide crown band and pleated bow of ot white faille or grosgrain rib rib- bon The bow may have two pleat pleated d loops wide enough to reach Teach from the top of the crown to its base and the band of pleated ribbon crossing the center of ot the bow should bo be proportionately proportionately wide With the white hit h ha trimming covering the side of ot the crown white white- will bo be r ry y and the smartest sort nort this fall tall will have seed aced pearl tops now arr ar very modest and inconspicuous affairs affairs af at- fairs the huge hugo knobs and ornaments have passed out along alons- with the dangerous danger danger- ous OUR Jong long points which no woman fas t about careful grooming will now DOW tolerate any more than a ly h fastened stock collar or boots with buttons button missing Th The hatpin la is selected to fit the tho size of ot the hat crown and if the tho tho pin part part is too long it may may bo be made shorter at trifling cost One Ono of the interesting t trimming notes of the fall is the locating Ung of eXpensive ex expensive expensive eX- eX pensive feathers and aigrettes on the under side side- of ot the brim Of course In to such case the brim rolls obviously ob upward upward upward up up- ward to for it would be a a. pity to hide an aigrette costing 50 or so A very smart model by Talbot is 15 of ot old gold moire silk with a moderately high crown crown all all crO crowns 9 being moderate now v and not tall tall and and a l rolling Tolling brim faced raced with black velvet Ono One side sido of ot the brim rolls Tolls more more than the other and Is several inches wider than the other and on this widely rolling brim just brim just just under the edge is a sweeping gold colored Paradise plume which emanates from a black ostrich pompon Absolutely Absolutely Absolutely nothing else elsa on the hat and the tho hatpin made of ot amber scarcely showing showing show show- ing InS against the old gold sUJ silk Coils Colls of or white silk Bilk cord looking very nautical in their trimly coiled colled neatness form torm ornaments under the velvet brims of ot some tallo tailored d hats A chief model also by Talbot is of or limp gro gray velvet with a n. coil coll of ot this white silk cord under the rolled Tolled up brim and two white wings slanting out from the low crown at either side The Admirals Admiral's hat is an odd whim whim- ee sey for fall restaurant wear This big bIb hat is much longer fore and aft art than It is abeam and from the top at the tho back to the tip over th the nose nOM pass 1 passIng passIng pass pass- Ing Ing- Ingup up over the tho crown and down again goes gocs a wreath of ot silk roses that resembles the gala dressing of ot flags lags on a fore-and-aft fore dressed o man A hat of this typo was noted at the Plaza Paza at dinner hour one evening last week and was made of or Pompadour Pompadour Pompadour Pompa Pompa- dour silk in lovely ely shades of blue and androse androse androse rose on a creamy ground The silk was drawn softly over the big shapo shape and held down in folds at eIther cither side under rosettes of ot edged picot ribbon an and tho the fore-and-aft fore trimming of or roses rose showed a combination of blue roseand roseand rose roso and tea rose Toeo colorings This striking striking strUt strUt- ing yet love lovely I hat accompanied a atrock frock of ot pink mull and lace laco worn with pink satin buttoned oxfords and flesh flesh- tinted silk stockings s 1 A A. SAILOR SULon SHAPE snAPE THAT I PROMISES TO BE DE A FA FAVORITE This graceful sailor shape made of soft black velvet and having a decidedly decided decided- ly saucy roll to the brim has been brought out b by Georgette and promises to be the hat of tho the season as far as younger women are aro concerned Tho The Georgette sailor pictured here bere Is trimmed with soft folds of or white satin pleated into a little bow at it tho the ends this pleated bow resting on the brim brimat at the front of ot the hat Poised against tho the crown at the top tOl are two white mercury wings o SEW NEW OSTRICH FOU FOUNTAIN TAIN AIGRETTE This arrangement of ostrich tips showered over with black aigrettes is novel and Interesting The Tho new feather feath feath- er is called tho the fountain aigrette and is la of course rather priced high-priced aigrettes delicate enough to curl over and plump little ostrich tips of ot the sort BOrt pictured are naturally exPensive sive The hat is a Crozet model with witha a a. blocked crown of ot buff colored moire silk and a rolling brim faced with black velvet and the fountain trImming trimming trimming trim trIm- ming is made mado of or colored buff ostrich tips showered over with black aigrettes aigrettes aig alg- are aTe very partial to these fountain fountain foun toun tain aigrettes just now and they promise to be a distinctive mode of ot the autumn autumn 3 s AN AX OUTING HAT RAT FOR FALL FAIL The rhe graceful lines of or this hat are are strikingly evident and the color combination com com- a a soft pearl gray and white white- is particularly pleasing The pearl gray felt shape is very ven flexible and the wide brim Is caught back a against the thc crown under two breasts which sweep around toward the side and back of the hat This hat is part of ot an autumn and will be bo worn in the mountains during during- September with a a. worsted tailored suit and white buttoned buttoned buttoned but but- toned boots of buckskin 4 ONE OXE OF TILE THE WAYS AlS IN IX WHICH RIBBON RIB RIB- DON BON no WILL ILL III USED This charming Maria Crozet hat caused a veritable sensation when It appeared last month The Tho shape shapo Is a broad-brimmed broad affair almost In mushroom mushroom mushroom mush mush- room st style le mado made of dark blue vel velvet t. t The Tho entire crown Js is covered with a amass amass amass mass of or short ribbon ends ends taffeta taffeta velvet satin sa Un and grosgrain ribbons In shades of ot bluet Among the ribbon ends at one ono side are aro tucked two or three lar large e artificial bluet which deepen deep deep- en and enrich tho the coloring of or the hat It H is anticipated that these ribbon crowns which look like e hugo huge flowers lower will be bo tremendously fancied later ona on on- a J THE NEW XE AMAZON TURBAN TURHAN IS DECIDEDLY DECIDEDLY DE DE- Y CHIC CIUC This little velvet elvet hat by Is 15 In tho new Amazon shape just now no- the rage Tage in Paris The Tho brim rolls Tolls backward backward back back- ward and the whole hat slants toward the back where the brim is much wider than it is at the front A small bow of black picot ribbon Is set at the th front of ot the tho Crown and from this two paradise para para- dise aigrettes sweep backward With this hat is shown one of or the new collars for fot fall and as a a 3 arule arule rule the chic litHo Amazon hat must be accompanied b by bery very ery smart smart- high neckwear neckwear neckwear neck neck- wear if It it is to have nave the proper effect |
