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J W 5 PLEATS SAYS PARIS NOW Now She Dresses Like a Dandy The Dandy The High Waistline Waistline Waistline Waist Waist- line Past and Gone Gone Pleats and Give Coquetry Co Coquetry Coquetry Co- Co to New Fashions Long Fashions Long Sleeves on All Formal Frocks for Day Wear Wear The The Return of Smooth Finished I 1 Fabrics t I II The he new rew fashions are says says' Paris bat but with with witha a differ differ ence The styles we 0 have havo all been used need to during the past few seasons were feminine fashIons fash- fash Ions now ions now the masculine modes odes are to have their turn And If It ever modishness was the mode for tor masculinity masculinity mas mas- It was In the elegant Direct t toire ire days when every chap under his dotage was a dandy and dandy and some old fellows fellows fellows fel fel- lows In the dotage age too These ga gay dogs doers If It you please affected silk stockings and starched sl sleeve eve and neck frills and perfumed col coiffures tures They were ere as fastidious about their cosmot- cosmot cosmetics ics as any belle bene of qt today od Y and at the tho same time they thoy could handle a sword and swallow a round of ot toasts In a away away away way that proved them anything but effeminate The dandy wore in an l oddly oddly odd odd- ly h cut coat which was was' somewhat like the modern dress coat extremely e s- s This coat coot had a sharply cutaway cutaway cut cut- away effect In front and tremendously tremendous long ong tails at the back a high turned- turned down collar huge hugo revere revers and long snugly fitting sleeves FlIm Filmy frills escaped es escaped es- es taped from the sleeves and foamed down the front of ot a lively waistcoat between the tho big coat revers It Is these dandified coats of ot the late sev- sev i enteen hundreds that have formed the tho inspiration for women's tailored wear I this seas on Th The the cut away away fronts the ga gray gay vest the the frills the tho fanciful revers rovers are arc all here and coats are built in contrasting color and material to suggest the tho dandys dandy's dandys dandy's dandy's dandys dan dan- dys dy's cloth coat cot and satin breeches Half Halt of at the new tailored wear for fall tall fall hailing from Paris shows Paris shows the coat and skirt of ot contrasting fabric and the tho broadcloth coat with a velvet or satin skirt is seen as frequently as the velvet velvet vel vel- elvet vet coat with Ith a skirt of ot cloth or silk Smooth finished materials are arc in high favor and though rough cheviots wide welted serges and will undoubtedly undoubtedly undoubtedly un un- be tie used suits and I coats the silk silky broadcloths very soft sort i velvets faille silks and poplin poplin poplin pop pop- lin weaves will be favored for dressy costumes costume A mixed weave of ot worsted with mohair mohair- threads called In Paris a weave Is particularly well liked because of ot its Us lustrous silky texture and this fabric comes in all the subdued to hard colorings In which the French couturiers delight A taupe taupo shade shad and a a. deep mulberry shade are perhaps the most tive Grays Gras continue In n the pronounced favor favot fa- fa vot vor accorded them this summer and many ot ot- the women who wore nothing but black and white combinations last season are no now taking up the ra g-ra grays 8 It Is a wise woman who who electing electing to dress In gra gray for tor a season selects season selects one particular shade of ot gray ra and keeps to ft it Two striking features of oC Paris Parl ash fash fashIons Ions for tor fall tall arc are tho the prevalence pre of ot pleats and the length full sleeve e The elbow length sleeve has passed with the high wal waist t line which line which is now relegated rel- rel c to the limbo of ot pas passe e fashions All belts are arc at the waist wilst line normal and some ome of ot the tho coat effects en c drop below helow this point and to make sure surd that nobody shall mistake e th the fact act that thata a normal waist line is now the mo mode e fashion has decreed that all waists shall be emphasized b by a girdle belt or sash of ot one sort or another This Is again a memory of the tho dand dandy whose sash eash If his costume was military was a a. very cry ornamental part U thereof re r. r Sleeves Sleeves are not only long Jong but the they Y Yare are snug They Thep cover er the forearm and even oven the wrist In all coats frocks and ad blouses Intended for tor day Elbow El Elbow Elbow El- El bow sleeves In the form of ot loose lace draperies are noted on some of ot the new evening c frocks but the bare forearm is not now considered de rigour during durIn dur dur- ing In- Inthe the morning or afternoon unless afternoon unless with an Informal home at-home costume Buttons and sleeves have Tather rather sidetracked the tho Scribe from the tho subject sub sub- jeet of or pleats pleats pleats-a a most vitally significant significant I cant issue just now to for l' l It tt is the pleat that is going to work a transformation tion In the silhouette though the change will probably be so gradual that nobody will realize that skirt lines have completely changed until the metamorphosis met met- has be been n wrought er E Everything Every Every- thing Is pleated pleated pleated-In In one way or another er and er-and and we are seeing again the old- old old fashioned knife pleats tacked together to together to- to gether on the under side with lengths length of or tape so that they may not spread apart There are among amon- the new Paris models for autumn skirts pleated all allaround allaround allaround around at the top in narrow knife knife- pleating yet ret et ao so trimly held In place b by rows of or these confining confining- tapes that tho the measurement at knee and foot does doos not exceed the prescribed two yar yards s or orso orso orso so and the silhouette Is as slim and narrow as fashion still demands Ma Ma- Ia- Ia pleated chine-pleated skirts are arc at at tho pinnacle pinnacle pinnacle cle of tho the mode This machine pleating pleat pleat- ing or ing-or or accordion pleating as it Is sometimes called called Is Is put Into even vel velvet vol- vol vet Yet and broadcloth fabrics thou though h of ot course the best effects are produced with satin hea heavy silk or the tho soft lu ins ins- fabrics above referred to When the whole skirt or part of ot It In panels or vor drapery is not pleated there thore Is 5 apt to be some trimming In the form of pleated or ol 01 narrow bands of pleating knife stitched about half halt an nn Inch Inside either cither edge pleats and arc being used with discretion b hy by many of or the tho courtier courtiers to give gl a touch of or grace acc and to fall fan models The Tho pleat i is noted tn c even ovon on tailored coats and It appears constantly on handsome wraps for tor evening e wear The Tho Is a much chastened and subdued sub sub- dued modification of the Impertinent puffed out affair which heralded the tho arrival of this fashion last spring and man many of or the looped and draped on fall frocks are fire exquisitely grace grace- ful lul Skirts remain rem narrow at atthe the tho foot toot all the tho width being Introduced In pleat pleat- Ings and long clinging Ine draperies which do do donot not In Interfere with slim ette 1 BERNARD un COAT r AM SKIRT OF CONTRASTING I- I AnRIC Expressive of oC the latest Paris ideas Idea for fall nil Is this stunning suit b by n r- r nal d which combines a black and white velvet coat with a skirt of ot black broadcloth roa cloth The sk skirt rt has a pleated panel at one side The smart velvet coat cont is piped with whito white cloth and embroidered with arrowheads In white and black The most striking feature Is the double collar the tho tall coat collar rising over overa a a. turnover collar and vest of ot white broadcloth Cuffs of or tho the white while broadcloth finish the long tight ht i sleeves B Y A P CH lX P n SHOWING TIlE TUB FAVORED TRIMMING This Tills graceful wrap was designed b by Madame for tOl her own use and has all the di dignity end and nd elegance that this couturier expresses In her own toilettes The wrap Is built of nav navy blue faille Caille silk aUk with a border of at i black satin The bands banda of or pleated used down downs the front and around the skirt of the coat separate the blue nn and black materials An effe ef effective ef- ef fe trimming touch Is the use usa of ot tiny pleated of ot black satin In i I r rall J. J all au the seama of oC the tho garment Only a fIgure could stand stan tho upstanding upstanding up up- standing pleated but taut they add Immense chic to the coat 3 s. TIIU AV U l A A l' l FALL lII II IE FEATURE TCHE This costume b by Martial et Armand Arman ArmandIs Is IR n n. model designed for artern afternoon on visiting visiting vis vis- lUng wear and combines a brown velvet et skirt with a coat of ot tan broadcloth broadcloth broadcloth broad broad- cloth In the new fashion of ot contrasting contrastIng contrastIng contrast- contrast Ing coat and skirt The skirt has a a. graceful panier drapery at one ono side and a a. ver very sharply pointed train The coat is an Imitation of ot the coat worn by by dandles dandies during the period period pe period pe- pe and at the back a a. pleat has been added Just by way ay of ot The Tho collar and cuffs cuts and the cutaway fronts give the coat Its character 4 ADORES A FANCIFUL F. CUT Always In the van nn of the mode Pa- Pa quin delights in introducing all aU sorts sort of ot Individual and striking features I and her tailored wear is never nover commonplace commonplace common common- place or lacking In Interest This now tailored costume for tor autumn is a three- three piece affair though the tho smart blouse does not appear In the illustration The coat and skirt are arc of at navy blue broadcloth with deep revers and a n draped sash of black satin The trImming trimming trimming trim trIm- ming which suggests braid is really made mO-de of ot yards ards and yards of ot black satin tubing invisibly sewed to the garment armant b by hand and Is one of or the most Interesting Interesting Inter Inter- esting trimming ideas of the season The sl skirt Is slightly draped an and reveals the tho neat walking walking- boot of ot la patent tent leather leath leath- er with buttoned calf calt top r 5 C. PLEATED MACHINE SKIRTS A FALL MODE Once more the accordion pl pleated accordion skirt appears at the vat val of tho the mode modo but now it calls Itself machine pleat ed and is 18 ver very circumspect In Its width the pleats being kept un under er r r strict control b by tapes tap tacked un under under- er- er neath This new now tailored suit Rull for tor au autumn autumn autumn au- au Is b by David Bechoff and In Includes Includes includes In- In a mannish little coat and the straight pleated machine-pleated 81 skirt The Tho coat is vcr very jaunty with a n velvet collar collar collar col col- lar double rovers revers buttons button made of or braid and the tho youthful belt motif at tho bock back The skirt Is 11 short enough to show the walking t boot of ot patent leather with a A. buttoned cloth top This suit Is built of or gray blue-gray fabric a fabric a mixed weave of worsted and mohair now popular In Paris |
